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Old 06-10-08, 09:53 AM   #31
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As to the 88/89 thing, when I ordered my last rad several companies said the 88 was different from the 89. As I recall they were mixing up fj60 with fj62, I have an 88 but went with the 89 radiator. Mine also came with a bent filler neck, went through three replacements before they shipped one that wasn't damaged.


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Old 06-10-08, 10:35 AM   #32
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I got my brass radiator locally and I was lucky enough to get it in perfect condition. Cost me $300 though...
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Old 06-10-08, 06:27 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max.Powerzz View Post
As to the 88/89 thing, when I ordered my last rad several companies said the 88 was different from the 89. As I recall they were mixing up fj60 with fj62, I have an 88 but went with the 89 radiator. Mine also came with a bent filler neck, went through three replacements before they shipped one that wasn't damaged.
I find the same problem with the 90 model year...places like Autozone, Checker Auto want to call it an 80.


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Old 06-10-08, 11:43 PM   #34
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Trany cooler install finished today. I will post pics in the next day or to.
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Old 06-29-08, 12:17 AM   #35
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Man i am sorry I got to this thread so late. The factory spec radiator is all you need. Keep it stock. The tranny cooler is a good idea and will give you peace of mind. Tranny fluid runs about 400 degrees while radiator water is 195. So the tranny fluid is just pumped through a coil that runs through the radiator--which cools it down to 250 or so instead of the 400 degrees it is when it leaves the tranny. The extra tranny cooler just adds an extra cool to the fluid. It is a good idea and the later LC were built with a bigger tranny cooler in the radiator. If you are going to add a cooler, get the B & M plate style cooler--not the coil and fin style. The plate coolers do a much better job of cooling. It is less than $100 and you can get it at any hot rod shop in your town. There is a good thread on how to install it.
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Old 06-29-08, 11:53 AM   #36
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Uh, dp777usa, where are you reading that trans fluid runs 400 degrees? I'd cut that # in half to reflect somewhat normal operating temps.
Varnishes form at 240 deg., and mosts trannies die within 2000 miles with 315 deg temps. Remember that conventional trans fluid is roughly 90% mineral oil.


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'90 FJ 62, '08 Scion head unit, chopped quarters and rockers, bedlined exterior, and mostly stock. My soft wheeler and DD.

'85 Dodge Ramcharger a little built, and a little beat. My hard wheeler.
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Old 06-29-08, 04:21 PM   #37
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Trany cooler and stock new brass radiator are in and running well. Let me know if anyone wants pics or has questions.
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Old 08-18-08, 02:21 PM   #38
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Randy-I want to see some pics of your cooler mount and how you routed the hoses.

Thanks.


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Old 08-18-08, 08:32 PM   #39
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I will get some pics and elaborate for you. I have some on my comp but I need to resize them.
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Old 08-18-08, 08:57 PM   #40
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Here is a link to the 60's FAQ Oil Cooler Install while you wait for me to post pics:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...r-install.html
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Old 08-18-08, 09:18 PM   #41
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Trany Cooler Pointers

The hose from the trany to bottom left inlet of radiator (original oil cooler) does not change. I busted the end on mine when taking it off so I took it to my local semi truck mechanic who makes custom hoses all the time and he crimped on a tube fitting for me and saved me from buying a new hose.


The exit hose from your radiator oil cooler goes to the inlet of the trany cooler. This is where I used a brass barbed elbow from McMaster Carr. It screws into the radiator oil cooler exit and you can then hose clamp the provided trany cooler hose on to the barbed end.


Inlet to trany cooler and exit to trany cooler use basic male fittings that rubber hose goes over and hose clamps on.

I routed all the hoses through the same area that the condenser hoses go through (to the inside of the passenger headlight.)


Once you know all your hoses are going to work right you use the provided zip tie things to attach it through your condenser. Use the provided spacers to make sure your trany cooler is not flat on your condenser. It will not help cooling for your ac or your trany if you forget to space them apart.


Here is the final install pic and the orientation I chose (notice that my grill is off as it makes attaching the cooler extremely easy.
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Old 08-18-08, 11:20 PM   #42
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Thank you. The detail of the routing is very good and will work for me. I'm going to try and use the fittings off of the factory hose and cut off the crimp, but if that fails,, what size were the threads on the brass elbow from McM Carr?

Appreciate it.


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1989 FJ-62 117k-son's driver for now.
1997 FZJ-80 Factory sub-tank, and other tricks
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Old 08-18-08, 11:39 PM   #43
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I bought a pack of the brass barb elbows from McMaster. PM me your address and I'll ship it to you for free, they weigh nothing. I'm not sure what the size is because I bought two types to be safe. It's either 3/8 by 1/4 barb elbow or a 3/8 by 3/8 barb elbow.
-Randy

edit: Looking at my picture above I can tell it's the 3/8 by 1/4 elbow.

Last edited by Randy88FJ62; 08-18-08 at 11:42 PM. Reason: updated size of barb elbow
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Old 08-18-08, 11:42 PM   #44
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PM'ed.

Thanks!


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1971 FJ-40 Rubicon tested
1976 FJ40 RIP
1984 FJ-60 H55f, 4.11, OME, Daily Driver
1989 FJ-62 117k-son's driver for now.
1997 FZJ-80 Factory sub-tank, and other tricks
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Old 08-18-08, 11:53 PM   #45
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Quote:
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PM'ed.

Thanks!
Don't thank me until it gets there.
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