Oil recommendations

[twstrchasr]

I was curious if would be advantageous to switch to a synthetic motor oil in my 140,000 mile '89 FJ62. I have been running a regular high mileage oil to this point. I am open to suggestions on either syn or regular motor oil !!

[Trapper50cal]

Also curious to see what the powers that be will say...
I've been running reg. 10/30

[BillyGHusk]

I think there are two main camps when it comes to this debate.

Side A:

The extra cost of synthetic is by no means justified in a 20+ year old engine.
You will develop leaks when you start running synthetic .
Regular oil changes when a good quality oil are all you need to do.


Side B:
Any thing I that can be done to increase the life of my baby is worth doing.
If some leaks develop fix them


I am in camp B. I also have a 3B with about 85,000 miles on it. I think the main think to consider in asking this question is the age of the engine and can you afford synthetic.

Tim

Just my $.10 worth..........inflation....

[tonkota]

No, I don't think so. I run synthetic in one of my cars (supercharged pontiac with 22,000 miles), 5000 mile change interval. I run Rotella in the other cars. 10W 40 in the Cruiser, 15W-40 in the oil burning town only driving car.

I will say that with the Rotella, I saw no wear after 8000 miles on the camshaft and lifters. The surfacing grind marks were still there.

I would run synthetic if:
It was a high performance engine
it was a high revving engine
it sits not running for more than 9 months at a time
I wanted extended change intervals

That is my $1.50

[Spike Strip]

My engine builder said newer oils have removed a lot of the pressure-wear additives necessary for flat-tappet engines. Modern engines with OHC don't need them, and also for smog reasons.

Run an oil (like Rotella T) that's certified for BOTH gasoline and diesel engines. Those contain the pressure-wear additives.

There are both synthetics and dino oils with diesel/gas certs. Rotella (shell) makes one, but I've found it hard to find the full synthetic Rotella T . Frequent changes is the key -- Consumer Reports tested this a few years ago.

[BillyGHusk]

Originally Posted by tonkota

No, I don't think so.

You don't think so what?

Originally Posted by tonkota

That is my $1.50

damn, cost of living has hit you harder than me...

[tonkota]

Originally Posted by BillyGHusk

You don't think so what?

I don't think its worth the money to run in an old engine. I don't think you'd see any benefit from switching at this point.

Full Synthetic Rotella is available at Wal*Mart here.

[Spike Strip]

Originally Posted by tonkota

I don't think its worth the money to run in an old engine. I don't think you'd see any benefit from switching at this point.

Full Synthetic Rotella is available at Wal*Mart here.

I don't get to Wallyville, much, but if it's available there, that's what I'd prolly run, but only on a low-mileage or rebuilt. A motor with 100K + , what's the point?

[BillyGHusk]

Originally Posted by Spike Strip

but only on a low-mileage or rebuilt. A motor with 100K + , what's the point?

I agree , but I expect to get 300,000+ out of my 3B.

Tim

[inkpot]

Originally Posted by BillyGHusk

I agree , but I expect to get 300,000+ out of my 3B.

Tim

Howdy! I have just under 200,000 miles on my 350, and just over 200,000 on my 22RE. Both run fine, pass emissions, have only trace metals on the drainplug magnets, and both have only minor damp spots due to oil leaks. There are 3 high problems to avoid on engines: High RPM, High temperature, and High mileage between oil changes. Both engines have run only name brand dino oils. After 80,000 miles on my wife's van, I quit running synthetic. It is not worth the extra $$$ to me. I would rather spend the $ on more frequent oil changes. John

[RockDoc]

I'm not as up on it all as some of the 80s guys (look there for a ton of info and debate) but I think the add-pack is more important than whether the base-stock is syn or conventional. I used to run Mobil 1 10w30 year round, now I run Rotella T conventional 15w40 summer and Rot T syn 0w40 winter. Lots cheaper, and I suspect much better in terms of additives.

[twstrchasr]

Ok, here is another thing that I would like to address as we are on the oil topic.... I only put about 5--7K miles per year on my 62. So, I guess that would be considered low. It is not my primary DD but it does get driven pretty frequently. On a vehicle that is driven that amount of miles, what oil change intervals should I go with ?? BTW, as of right now, I have 0 leaks from the rig. I have had some things worked on (pertaining to leaks) the past yr: valve cover gasket, oil cooler line, and tranny pan. But anyway, NO leaks currently. The oil change interval is my main concern. I have been using QState 10W30 High Mileage. To be honest, I have had the rig going on 7 yrs and I have been changing the oil twice a yr, regardless of mileage..Should I be doing changes more often, or not ?? Also, the rig drives great, aside from a somewhat tempermental, slow to shift tranny....

What the devil is Rotella ? Never heard of it...

[RockDoc]

Rotella T is a Shell product marketed mainly as a diesel oil, although it meets spark ignition requirements too. (I learned about the specs here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...as-engine.html)

I would think changing twice a year is good. Just make sure the truck gets a good run at full temp every so often to drive off fuel dilution and moisture.

[twstrchasr]

Originally Posted by RockDoc

Rotella T is a Shell product marketed mainly as a diesel oil, although it meets spark ignition requirements too. (I learned about the specs here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...as-engine.html)

I would think changing twice a year is good. Just make sure the truck gets a good run at full temp every so often to drive off fuel dilution and moisture.

Oh, yeah, I give it a good running pretty often. Actually, I might put more miles per yr than I stated earlier. Anyway, less than 10K a yr. I'll look into that Rotella... Thanks !!!

[gnomesliv]

Switched to royal purple fully syth after being told about all the leak horror stories, and yet no leaks. My engine did stop making a tapping sound that I used to hear before the switch.

[effjay60]

Synthetic lubricates better and leaves a film on engine parts helping prevent engine wear at startup. The Harley guys at work say it runs 10 degrees cooler in their bikes. It's better hands down. It's more expensive hands down. One more benifit is that synthetics do not contain any sulfur. Refineries cannot remove 100% of the sulfur from their product. Sulfur combines with water vapor to form sulfuric acid (icky) which is why you should change your oil periodically despite milage.

[Mace]

Originally Posted by effjay60

Synthetic lubricates better and leaves a film on engine parts helping prevent engine wear at startup. The Harley guys at work say it runs 10 degrees cooler in their bikes. It's better hands down. It's more expensive hands down. One more benifit is that synthetics do not contain any sulfur. Refineries cannot remove 100% of the sulfur from their product. Sulfur combines with water vapor to form sulfuric acid (icky) which is why you should change your oil periodically despite milage.

oil leaves a flim on the engine as well.

Harley guys pay $1000 for 2 exhaust pipes as well...

Is synthetic good? yes...
Is it worth it in a tractor motor??

Nope

[commostud]

I don't see anyone using Castrol GTX 10/30. Is there a problem with it? I am thinking of switching to rotella. It is cheaper and they say here it is pretty good.

[Cruzerman]

I've used Castrol in my 60 since I've owned it. It had 200K when I bought it. Has about 340K now. Think I'll stick with the Castrol.

[hatman406080]

Originally Posted by Cruzerman

I've used Castrol in my 60 since I've owned it. It had 200K when I bought it. Has about 340K now. Think I'll stick with the Castrol.

x2 20/50 castrol in my 60 with 240,000mi.+ 10/30 in my 80 367,000mi.+

[Mace]

I have used castrol 20/50 for a very long time. I am only switching because I buy Rotella by the gallon for Diesel oil changes.

Makes life easier only having one type of oil around the house..

[effjay60]

Originally Posted by Mace

oil leaves a flim on the engine as well.

Harley guys pay $1000 for 2 exhaust pipes as well...


Is synthetic good? yes...
Is it worth it in a tractor motor??

Nope

tractor motor or not, I share the same afinity for my cruiser as "Harley Dudes" do for thier bikes. Synthetic offers more, my cruiser deserves more.

[brian]

rotella T and call it good. 15-40 in everything i own.

[Spike Strip]

Originally Posted by effjay60

tractor motor or not, I share the same afinity for my cruiser as "Harley Dudes" do for thier bikes. Synthetic offers more, my cruiser deserves more.

I don't think it's about what a 'cruiser deserves... Most peeps here would put the best oil in their rigs they can get... It's what might be best for a motor designed and built almost two generations ago, now. Additive packages have changed in modern oils to adapt to modern engines and current smog laws. I'm not an SAE oil engineer, but from what I've read, the additive package best suited to the 2F type of motor is now only found in oils that have the diesel certification; and some of these are synthetic.

I've run synthetics in everything I've owned - going back to the introduction of Arco Graphite, - including Air Compressors, Lawn Mowers, and weed whackers.

But in the cruiser I will run Rotella T (when it's running ).

That's just what I think is best, not necessarily the "Best" oil out there.