What the deuce is this thing?

billmc · 09-24-08, 08:30 PM

whackiest thread ever

euclid · 09-25-08, 12:06 AM

I intend to check my timing soon, just to see if tightening the hidden screw effected engine timing.

Nemesis Gnat · 09-25-08, 01:14 AM

i want a magic screw for my 60

billmc · 09-25-08, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nemesis Gnat

i want a magic screw for my 60

LOL, really, you think in this day and age the government would require hidden magic mileage screws on all cars.

Godwin · 09-25-08, 07:09 AM

Fuel pulsation damper is described here http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf on page 8.

hicruise55 · 09-25-08, 07:45 AM

Almost wish I saw this before I started my V8 swap... almost

Pretty crazy though

Would there be any long term negatives from this? How has this been overlooked for so long? I mean a lot of 3FE's are comming up on 20 years old

Awsome find though guys!

hicruise55 · 09-27-08, 06:18 AM

WOW!

Did I really kill this thread???

Clack · 10-24-08, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Godwin

Fuel pulsation damper is described here http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf on page 8.

Well I was really excited until I saw this. Looks like it's supposed to go in and out? Anyone smarter than I am with this stuff?

Not planning to jbweld it in if it's supposed to go in and out

morganism · 01-17-09, 04:35 PM

This is a HUGE issue with 4Runners.

The diaphram in there will flex loose when the screw falls out, then breaks, and drips gas on the exhaust pipe or header.

Causes LOTS of engine fires in the SR5s

Seal that sucker in there, expensive to replace, dangerous to leave unrepaired.

It seems to blow the injector seals when it goes bad too. Mine are all leaking.

Who r u folks having do your injector conditioning ?

Moby · 01-17-09, 05:12 PM

RC Engineering did mine.

Kynot62 · 01-17-09, 07:56 PM

Since no one wants to let this thread die here's my 2 cents. Mine gave up the ghost and on a 3FE it also leaks right on the exhaust after it puddles up on the cylinder head.

They are not expensive. My local auto parts store got mine for about $25. No screw it has a rivet.

As for the magic tool to change it, it's called a crows foot and it goes on your ratchet. No diassembly of your engine required. My metrics didn't go large enough so I used either a 13/16 or 7/8 I don't remember which. If you don't know what a crows foot is, it is the business end of an open end wrench with a square hole for your ratchet, you have to use an extension by the way.

I can't testify to the magic screw theory as nothing changed on mine from screw in to missing screw to leaking to new dampener. The only thing to change was the fuel leak was now fixed.

Tony

cruiser88 · 01-17-09, 08:44 PM

7/8 and I NEVER THOUGHT of a crows foot

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kynot62

Since no one wants to let this thread die here's my 2 cents. Mine gave up the ghost and on a 3FE it also leaks right on the exhaust after it puddles up on the cylinder head.

They are not expensive. My local auto parts store got mine for about $25. No screw it has a rivet.

As for the magic tool to change it, it's called a crows foot and it goes on your ratchet. No diassembly of your engine required. My metrics didn't go large enough so I used either a 13/16 or 7/8 I don't remember which. If you don't know what a crows foot is, it is the business end of an open end wrench with a square hole for your ratchet, you have to use an extension by the way.

I can't testify to the magic screw theory as nothing changed on mine from screw in to missing screw to leaking to new dampener. The only thing to change was the fuel leak was now fixed.

Tony

morganism · 02-07-09, 04:59 PM

Dealer wants more than 125 for those, and lowest i could find was 89.

injectors in to Cruisin Performance now.

I think it 23 mm, cuz my 22 and 24 (harbor freight) wrenchs don't fit it !!!!!

cruiser88 · 02-07-09, 05:02 PM

You need some injection parts?

Quote:

Originally Posted by morganism

Dealer wants more than 125 for those, and lowest i could find was 89.

injectors in to Cruisin Performance now.

I think it 23 mm, cuz my 22 and 24 (harbor freight) wrenchs don't fit it !!!!!

Dunbar · 02-07-09, 06:05 PM

Just pulled the top on mine and the screw is out and will not thread back in. I already have a new one on hand and it need a 22mm wrench. So I am off to buy a 22mm crows foot and hoping for the improvement that some others have seen by fixing this.

Cheers,
Dunbar

morganism · 02-25-09, 02:55 PM

Cheapest I found it was 89, from Obrien/Kragen. Sealed completley now, not even a rivet. Had the injectors done by Cruzin Performance, and he replaced the seals on the ones i sent him for 16 each total + shipping. going together tommorow, now if i can figure out why the cowling is full of liquid gas, it should all be good....

Johans · 03-08-09, 01:54 PM

SPOOK50 sorry for the belated reaction to this thread, however the part in question is as follow; "DAMPER ASSY, FUEL PRESSURE PULSATION" - Part No. 23270

Check out this link; ToyoDIY.com

Spook50 · 03-08-09, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clack

Well I was really excited until I saw this. Looks like it's supposed to go in and out? Anyone smarter than I am with this stuff?

Not planning to jbweld it in if it's supposed to go in and out

I wouldn't JB Weld it in place. Just snug it down (don't overtighten it, just snug) and check it every couple weeks or so to make sure it's not backing out.

Johans, we already found out a long while back

cruiser88 · 03-08-09, 04:27 PM

I just pulled a damper if anybody needs it

BP22 · 10-11-09, 09:10 PM

My plastic cap was still on but the screw was backed all the way out. I tightened it two rotations and it seemed like it had some more left but I didn't want to over do it.

Thanks for the heads up.

boerboel313 · 10-13-09, 04:38 AM

Is this on both the 60 and 62? And if Mine (60) is desmoged, then I probably don't have it any more, iwould this also be correct?

Thanks for the pics.

Spook50 · 10-13-09, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boerboel313

Is this on both the 60 and 62? And if Mine (60) is desmoged, then I probably don't have it any more, iwould this also be correct?

Thanks for the pics.

3FEs only, so no 60 application. Also, being desmogged wouldn't eliminate that (if you have it in the first place, anyway). It's to help prevent pressure surges in the fuel rail.

Von Hayek · 10-27-09, 07:55 AM

Is there a good reason not to put loc-tite on the bolt?

Marty Moose · 10-27-09, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Von Hayek

Is there a good reason not to put loc-tite on the bolt?

Thats what i did. If you read back far enough someone put JB weld on it. The replacement part has a rivit instead of a screw.

billmc · 10-27-09, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spook50

Just snug it down (don't overtighten it, just snug)

Come on guys, I can't believe this nonsense is still continuing. RTFM! - the screw is NON-ADJUSTABLE and for calibrating the action of the damper, NOT for snugging things down. If you snug it down you've defeated the purpose of the damper by fixing the volume of the fuel rail. If the damper is defective and leaking, replace it, otherwise leave it alone.

Bill

Von Hayek · 10-27-09, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billmc

Come on guys, I can't believe this nonsense is still continuing. RTFM! - the screw is NON-ADJUSTABLE and for calibrating the action of the damper, NOT for snugging things down. If you snug it down you've defeated the purpose of the damper by fixing the volume of the fuel rail. If the damper is defective and leaking, replace it, otherwise leave it alone.

Bill

If the screw has worked its way out, what do you suggest I do?

specialk396 · 10-27-09, 10:54 AM

Bill is suggesting we all replace ours that have backed out completely, as we cannot approximate this adjustment. Is there anyone who locked it down(jb weld or loctite) with mileage reports yet?

billmc · 10-27-09, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Von Hayek

If the screw has worked its way out, what do you suggest I do?

If I were in your position, I'd just screw it back in enough so that when the fuel rail is pressurized the screw head rises up about 1/8". If it leaks, replace it.

Spook50 · 10-27-09, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billmc

Come on guys, I can't believe this nonsense is still continuing. RTFM! - the screw is NON-ADJUSTABLE and for calibrating the action of the damper, NOT for snugging things down. If you snug it down you've defeated the purpose of the damper by fixing the volume of the fuel rail. If the damper is defective and leaking, replace it, otherwise leave it alone.

Bill

IIRC, when there is no pressure against the fuel rail, the screw should sit snugly against its O-ring. This allows it to still protrude when pressure is against it.

In other news: for those talking about JB Welding it in place, DON'T DO IT! The screw is supposed to be able to pulsate in and out as the pressure fluctuates in the fuel rain.