propane daily driver

[bumfj60]

where did you guys get your propane pressure hose? I'm thinking around 14ft?

[Mace]

You should be able to get it from any propane shop in town..

[CruzerCrazy]

Been a while since I posted.

I converted my FJ60 a year ago and use it as my daily driver. I paid about $1.66 a year ago to fill up my 500 gallon residential tank and it is now about $2.30. I only use the propane to drive my car.....

Mace is right about the PITA on fuel ups if you travel. I went from Park City to Zions and you have to plan a little bit better... But Flying J has propane and most farm communities do as well. I am cool with it but it drives my wife crazy. "I just want to go to a gas station...." My comment is usually #### that... That is why I sold your Denali!

Mace,

I had lunch with Andre (DieselCruzerHead) a while back and he said you make it to Utah occasionally. I would love to see your Turbo/Propane setup.

LT,

Have you thrown a vacuum gauge on your intake at idle? I think I have a leek. Also, I am thinking of shaving my head to increase compression. I also have and HEI and I totally desmogged but I am not getting the mileage I want...... Thoughts?


CC

[CruzerCrazy]

I now have converted 2 Fj60s, a '68 Porsche 912, and a '67 Barracuda. I get most of my stuff from NashLift on ebay. It is a forklift supply store......

[turbeau69]

Hey Guys no affiliation to this or anything but we(IH8MUD) have been trying to get our own vehicle to run LPG and this guy is trying to get the whole d@^ country to run LPG cars..

PickensPlan

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Been a while and been real busy. Should start messing with it soon. And besides, I'm waiting to get my carb rebuilt by the one and only Jim. I have like 6 in front of me. So I don't mind the wait.

keep em comming in! Jim mentioned something about adding the tank under the driver side and rerouting the exaust like em bj60's... just a thought.

[hammered]

Have a seller here in Costa Rica who has a complete system out of a Cherokee.
4.3 motor. Near brand new and a full tank of gas.

From what I gather the the duel curve ingition will prob. not work? Maybe it will???
Mace said he hadn't seen many they really worked on our motors except a closed loop he has.

What could any of you recommend for timing my motor for the duel fuel?
Car a timing light and set it everytime I want to change over????

I want to go duel fuel.
May not use it all that often but for piece of mind I would like to have it.
I can get LPG at any corner store but the fill time might be a pain in the arse.
The only time I jerry canned before was when I was flat out of LPG.
Top up looks to be more time consuming according to the link Mace posted for the transfer hose.

By the way Mace thanks for that link.
The hose is easy anuff to have made up here.
Welding supply stores also carry this fittings for the tank connections.
Propane is OK for the torch.



The other ? I have is the conflicting answers on the fuel pump issue.
valve between the carb and pump sound possible or just electric pump it???
Would rather the mech. pump as It has never let me down yet and have a spair on hand always.

I am going to buy this setup if anything for the for the tank. Tank is full and worth every cent he is asking.
I just need some help planning the install and what additional parts I should factor in.
ie electric pump or valve/ timing light or duel curve ingition or a cable to the dist.???
The extra parts might be tradable with the LPG shops here for the pieces I need.
I have the mixer for the carb. Same as Peru has on his.
Was hoping to do this install this week but things happen at a slower pace here some days.
I will be going full tilt next week and will post the install with photos.

Any help much appreciated.

[Mace]

Originally Posted by hammered

Have a seller here in Costa Rica who has a complete system out of a Cherokee.
4.3 motor. Near brand new and a full tank of gas.

From what I gather the the duel curve ingition will prob. not work? Maybe it will???
Mace said he hadn't seen many they really worked on our motors except a closed loop he has.

What could any of you recommend for timing my motor for the duel fuel?
Car a timing light and set it everytime I want to change over????

I want to go duel fuel.
May not use it all that often but for piece of mind I would like to have it.
I can get LPG at any corner store but the fill time might be a pain in the arse.
The only time I jerry canned before was when I was flat out of LPG.
Top up looks to be more time consuming according to the link Mace posted for the transfer hose.

By the way Mace thanks for that link.
The hose is easy anuff to have made up here.
Welding supply stores also carry this fittings for the tank connections.
Propane is OK for the torch.



The other ? I have is the conflicting answers on the fuel pump issue.
valve between the carb and pump sound possible or just electric pump it???
Would rather the mech. pump as It has never let me down yet and have a spair on hand always.

I am going to buy this setup if anything for the for the tank. Tank is full and worth every cent he is asking.
I just need some help planning the install and what additional parts I should factor in.
ie electric pump or valve/ timing light or duel curve ingition or a cable to the dist.???
The extra parts might be tradable with the LPG shops here for the pieces I need.
I have the mixer for the carb. Same as Peru has on his.
Was hoping to do this install this week but things happen at a slower pace here some days.
I will be going full tilt next week and will post the install with photos.

Any help much appreciated.

the stock FJ60 timing is not computer controlled. you cannot change the advance by the flip of a switch..

set you timing as far advances as the gasoline will allow..

or run octane boost of some sort when running gasoline

the cool/hot thing is a pita. when worse comes to worse, you can just empty a full bbq tank into your tank by holding the bbq tank upside down. it is not perfect, but it does work quite well..


run an electric fuel pump..

[hammered]

Thanks Mace.

Octane is a easy to found here & prob. a good thing as they sell us gas the Mexicans will not run and sent here.
Serious. REALLY low grade junk. Octane I have been told is below 80.

Will go the electric pump then.

Going to buy the set up off the seller in the AM & post shots next week.

[CruisinFJ60]

so now that i have all my 2F-E parts ready.... What do i need to run propane on it? im thinking that since i will only bve using the compter to power the injectors, o2 sensors, and that sorta thing that i can run the ECU on a switched power so when i switch to propane it will shut off the fuel pump, and injectors keeping them form burning up... but does the engine have to have the MAF hooked up in order to run on propane? if so my ECU shutdown idea will not work and i would just have to kill the injectors only... I want to do this as i think it would be cool. plus i have a filling station close so propane back and forth to work and trails would be very easy to do full time then gas on road trips.

[Mace]

MAF is not necessary with pane (think carb)

But a throttle body is necessary..

[CruisinFJ60]

Originally Posted by Mace

MAF is not necessary with pane (think carb)

But a throttle body is necessary..

it will be dual fuel 2FE so the MAF would have to stay. Thats why i was askin how i would run it or what i would need to run it. I understand that i could run the Pane in after the MAF since it would not be needed for mixing ratios just not sure how to plumb it into the intake tube... just run a line in it?... or?...

[Mace]

The propane carb has to be run between the TB and the MAF. Silicone tubing would probably be the best way yo get everything to hook up..

[CruisinFJ60]

Originally Posted by Mace

The propane carb has to be run between the TB and the MAF. Silicone tubing would probably be the best way yo get everything to hook up..

so for a propane carb i could pretty much use a peice of solid alum pipe the same diameter as my intake tubes drill and tap a hole for the LPG and im good? and the stock throttle body would do the regulating duties? or... would the propane carb have to be something that limited the amoput of LPG that could flow into the intake?...

im sure im missing something as i dont seem to get it. I think i do but then again i think i dont. a picture would be awesome.

[Mace]

no, you need a specific mixer between the MAF and the TB.

[CruisinFJ60]

Originally Posted by Mace

no, you need a specific mixer between the MAF and the TB.

thats what i thought...

[LT]

Originally Posted by CruzerCrazy

Been a while since I posted.

I converted my FJ60 a year ago and use it as my daily driver. I paid about $1.66 a year ago to fill up my 500 gallon residential tank and it is now about $2.30. I only use the propane to drive my car.....

Mace is right about the PITA on fuel ups if you travel. I went from Park City to Zions and you have to plan a little bit better... But Flying J has propane and most farm communities do as well. I am cool with it but it drives my wife crazy. "I just want to go to a gas station...." My comment is usually #### that... That is why I sold your Denali!

Mace,

I had lunch with Andre (DieselCruzerHead) a while back and he said you make it to Utah occasionally. I would love to see your Turbo/Propane setup.

LT,

Have you thrown a vacuum gauge on your intake at idle? I think I have a leek. Also, I am thinking of shaving my head to increase compression. I also have and HEI and I totally desmogged but I am not getting the mileage I want...... Thoughts?


CC

I have an incab vacuum gauge and I do not show any leaks and I am running at 21 inches at idle. I don't get the greatest mpg on the road with propane and don't ever expect to unless I bump the compression up. Having 7.8:1 compression doesn't help to burn propane efficiently, needs more like 10:1 or 11:1 to burn the 104 - 110 octane rating.

For off road use I can run a single 10 gallon tank with usually a gallon or two to spare when the day of wheeling is over.

[hammered]

Not high jacking but this seems to have become and propane Ed. thread here on its own.

Well I got the tank and all parts I need to go ahead here and install.

The tank is about 13'' dia and 3' long.
Tight, but will fit and be large anuff that I can put on lots of milage before fill ups.
Way more than I have under the passanger seat. 45 liters + or -
I am guessing 70 liter tank. 150 lbs full right now.

I have looked at lots of photos on this site of guys hanging them under the tub between the rails

I can do this also, but don't like the look or the thought of having it banging around.
Also 150 lbs hangin there will combine when on ruff roads.
Have thought about replacing the floor of the tub and putting a half moon in it to sit the tank in.
My floor is good but will do what is needed to make this a comforatble safe and durable fit.
I want to keep my seat in the back and not mess with this too much, this is were the half moon thing comes in.
5-7'' depression in the floor to lay the tankin and then strap it down

Not sure about having this in the same cab.
Seen it done but wondering about safety issues.
Should post a photo & will of the tank.
The main valve the with level gauge looks like there is a releif valve on it.

Next ? is I have a sheet of 1/16 308 stainlesss left over from a job I did awhile back.

Any input on using this.
I can welded mild and 308t ogether no problem.

I have never done this or seen it done on floor boards.
I don't normally (rarely) mix and match mild and stainless.
But have a good sheet with no plans on it and thinking it might be the way to go????
It is harder and might stand up better to the saltly air here on the coast.
I am hoping if I seal it well I will not have to worry about oxidizing transfering to the 308 Stainless.

Any input????
Tank in the house and mild stainless combo flooring.

Thanks for the help
Will be posting photos this week as I install.

I looks to be an easy install exept my tank delema.

Well I am off to the corner cantena
to think about mondays install plans.

[CruisinFJ60]

the tank in the truck is prolly not the best idea... but however so long as there are no leaks...

i mean mine may end up in the rear section someplace... again i dunno how smart that is but yea.

[Mace]

tank in the truck is fine..

But be aware, it needs a liquid feed to run right, your typical house tank only feeds vapor..


And mild steel will weld just fine to stainless..

[hammered]

Here are a few shots of the tank valve and install.

Mace could you tell if this has a relief valve on the top.
If so I don't really like the idea of having this in the same cab as me.
I smoke.
Would have to remove it and put a relief inline on the exterior.

Mounted the main part here on the wheel well.
Read somewhere that it is best to keep the hose to the mixer as short as possible.

Will buy the donut for the carb. on Monday.
Not much $ and if t doesn't preform I will have a Impco sent down.

This kit came with copper hardlines to the fill valve and converter.
I have some nice shielding I might use to put over it then run it along the frame up to the converter.
Anything wrong with using this copper line???
If so speak your mind please.
I can have Goodyear lpg hoses made up but will be expensive.


It is heavy wall and was installed on the last rig.

[ntsqd]

Originally Posted by Mace

snip.....
And mild steel will weld just fine to stainless..

Most any filler will work, but according to a Pipe Certified Welder at a friend's work (Steam Power Generating Plant) this is best done with 309L filler rod.

[hammered]

I have some 308 that works well and a spot welder that should do the seams along the wheel wells.
Just have to clean and buff up the old mild for good pen.
Thanks for the input on it.

Will post shots later in the week once it is done.
Hope chop it up Tuesday and done by Wed.
Plan on re-enforcing under the tank with a frame to carry some of the wieght so I don't cave or stress everything else out.
Will snap a photo of this also.

Note the relief valve I think is an adjustment for the level gauge.
Has an alan bolt in it so it's not a relief.

I have a 450 lb lpg valve that I will install outside the cab.
Maybe on the filler line???
Any suggestions on this???
All I know is there should be one on the system just not sure where.

[hammered]

Have a donut and got it on trade.
Double inlet deal.
Said it was from a 2F he did and works great.
I am sceptical as the opening is restricated. I know nothing about these so, will pop it and shut the intake valve on it and see if there is any differance.
I am tuned perfect so if it chokes up I will see about changing it.

Butcher the tub.
Re-enforced the wells and framed it all in.
Had my Second year old apprentice welder fit and weld it up.
He is the perfect size for the job.s and 1 mango


Have the stainless bent up and in but started raining like all hell here and will post a shot manana.
Going to tp and bolt it down to the frame rather than weld it in.
If I need to pull it or want access it will be a 2 hour job to pull it out tank and all.