[swimfan]

Ok, i've got way to much slop. Driving 60+ down the freeway I have to fight the car to stay straight. It's impossible for me to hold the steering wheel in one position and have the truck go straight. If the grooves in the road change, the tires will steer themselves moving the truck in whatever direction it wants to go in. It's still driveable, but it's a constant battle where i have to stay very alert. Here's what i've done so far.

Recently went from 29"ish tires to 33" tires. Added OME 3" lift installed by 4wheelparts. Never had a problem with this prior to OME install. 4wheel acknowledged the slop stating the tie rod ends needed to be replaced. I bought some new ones and replaced them. Turning the steering wheel, the tie rod ends are much tighter than they were before. Turns out that that's not the problem. The slop continues.

Here's my other observations. After the tie rod ends didn't fix it, i started looking at the rest of the steering system. I don't have any large amount of knowledge in this area, so i need help. Turning the steering wheel, even the smallest amount, turns the "rod" thing in the engine bay that connects to the steering wheel. Here's where I feel i'm having the problem. I can turn the steering wheel about 1-2" in either direction and the pitman arm doesn't move at all.

I'd just like to get some info on other areas i can check to help figure this out. Bad power steering gear box possibly?

[Nemesis Gnat]

i have the same issue, ill be paying attention

[inkpot]

Howdy! Get the alignment checked out. It may need more toe in, which means the front of the front tires needs to be a little closer together. Or, it may need some a axle shims to rotate the steering axis a couple of degrees. John

[2mbb]

the maximum allowable freeplay in the steering wheel is 40mm (1.6 inches), measured at the outer diameter of the steering wheel.

Check the alignment

You can adjust the steering box by tightening a screw that's on the top of the box. First loosen the lock nut, then tighten the screw in small increments until you see some improvement.

The relay rod ends may be worn or need adjusting. do a search for the procedure.

[cruiserpants]

If your steering wheel has excessive play, you may need to adjust the "preload” on the steering box - It is the nut and screw on top of the box that need adjusting. Check your repair manual for specifics.
here is a link for more info: click here

Since you have a lift, it also sounds like you may want to check the front end caster.

[swimfan]

Originally Posted by 2mbb

the maximum allowable freeplay in the steering wheel is 40mm (1.6 inches), measured at the outer diameter of the steering wheel.

Check the alignment

You can adjust the steering box by tightening a screw that's on the top of the box. First loosen the lock nut, then tighten the screw in small increments until you see some improvement.

The relay rod ends may be worn or need adjusting. do a search for the procedure.

can you go more in depth with the steering box adjustment screw?

[2mbb]

Here it is from the FSM.

If you look through the drivers side wheel well at the top of the steering gear box (you will have to lift your fender aprons if you have them) the adjustment screw is the in the middle, on top of the gear box. you can get a wrench on the lock nut from inside the wheel well. You will need to use a long screwdriver from inside the engine compartment to adjust the screw tighter. The screw is pretty much underneath the air bypass valve. I sometimes remove some of the AIR hoses to make it easier to get to the adjusting screw.

[Nemesis Gnat]

sweet, thanks

[Bret]

As others have mentioned check the alignment, especially caster with the recent lift. It could have caused the axle to rotate (pinion pointed up more?) This will cause the truck to dart from side to side and follow things like raised paint lines etc. If you go with larger tires you can generally get away with a little more caster than stock. It can be a little bit harder to steer but you have better "return to center". You may be limited by the your pinion angle though.

You could also check the wheel bearings and trunion bearings. Jack the tire off the ground and see if there is any play from top to bottom, etc. A little less likely considering the symptoms.

[Trapper50cal]

Mine was all over the place. Mine ended up being knuckle (trunyon-sp?) bearings and shim pack thickness. But toe-in needed adjustment too. front of tires should be a little closer together than the backs of the tires. no more than .25"

[swimfan]

got a great bit of advice from a fellow mudder and it fixed the problem. i pulled out the pins on the ends of the tie rods and screwed the ends in all the way, then backed them off a full turn. tightened everything right up!

[lehiguy]

So what you had was a drag link problem, being out of adjustment. Keep those well greased and life stays happy.

[intense1]

you might wanna check the lil rubber flexplate between the steering shaft and the steering box. That can wear out.

[FJ40Jim]

Originally Posted by intense1

you might wanna check the lil rubber flexplate between the steering shaft and the steering box. That can wear out.

The rag joint is not used on FJ55/60/62, only on FJ40.

[lehiguy]

Originally Posted by FJ40Jim

The rag joint is not used on FJ55/60/62, only on FJ40.

Yup. Small u joints on the 60s. I had one get sloppy, I took the opportunity to replace it when I had the motor out and I could stand in the engine bay...

[joel hj60]

Adjusted mine today. I had major slop, I'm thinking it was over two inches. I have adjusted it up and while it is out of sight better now, there is still a clunk in there when the wheel is in the straight ahead position. Any ideas?

[workingdog]

So I'm not sure I'm following the fix. If the tie rod ends were new, what effect would screwing them all the way in have? And how is that related to the drag link?

Peter

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by workingdog

So I'm not sure I'm following the fix. If the tie rod ends were new, what effect would screwing them all the way in have? And how is that related to the drag link?

Peter

The drag link ends are spring loaded. It is a frequent source of slop. By tightening down on the compression screw, you are increasing the spring preload on the drag link end. Toyota's spec for adequately tight results in slop. Much better to tighten down all the way and back off about 1 turn.

Notice on the 80 series wagons the steering is basically the same and they did away with that goofy spring loading in the drag link ends. Much better in my opinion.

[workingdog]

Thanks for the clear explanation. I had no idea. So that's why people go over 80 series steering. I may have to look into that. Can you put stiffer springs in the ends?

Peter

[FJ40Jim]

There is no need for stiffer springs.
There is an adjuster plug on the end of the joint. As the plug is tightened down, the spring is compressed, and the spring gets "stiffer". When the adjuster is tightened fully, then the joint becomes solid, no play.

[Randy88FJ62]

Originally Posted by FJ40Jim

There is no need for stiffer springs.
There is an adjuster plug on the end of the joint. As the plug is tightened down, the spring is compressed, and the spring gets "stiffer". When the adjuster is tightened fully, then the joint becomes solid, no play.

FJ40Jim,
Can you explain the difference with the 80 series steering a bit more in detail? They have no springs at all? Are there any good links that explain these differences and the conversion? Thanks.

[FJ40Jim]

All tierod ends have some sort of spring in them. A conventional end has a belleville spring inside it which allows the rod end to absorb some road shock.

The reason to go to the 80 series rod ends is because they are noticeably larger & stronger.

[MoCoNative]

I'm going to hijack for a moment on this thread. What do you do with a wandering 60 that has new wheel bearings, new knuckle bearings, new tierod ends and draglink ends. All done properly and in spec.

I set the toe in myself, thought I had it good, but it still wanders and pulls all over hell, and the outside of the front tires are cupping badly.

Is my alignment off, or are my 221000 mile springs so flat and worn that caster and tracking are going to be crap anyways.

[lehiguy]

Originally Posted by MoCoNative

I'm going to hijack for a moment on this thread. What do you do with a wandering 60 that has new wheel bearings, new knuckle bearings, new tierod ends and draglink ends. All done properly and in spec.

I set the toe in myself, thought I had it good, but it still wanders and pulls all over hell, and the outside of the front tires are cupping badly.

Is my alignment off, or are my 221000 mile springs so flat and worn that caster and tracking are going to be **** anyways.

The answer, in your own words, "the front tires are cupping badly". You have bad alignment.

[inkpot]

Originally Posted by joel hj60

Adjusted mine today. I had major slop, I'm thinking it was over two inches. I have adjusted it up and while it is out of sight better now, there is still a clunk in there when the wheel is in the straight ahead position. Any ideas?

Howdy! You may need to replace the knuckle bearings. When I changed mine, they had obvious wear on the races in the straight ahead position. Not hard to beliceve since 90% of my driving is straight. John

[joel hj60]

Originally Posted by inkpot

Howdy! You may need to replace the knuckle bearings. When I changed mine, they had obvious wear on the races in the straight ahead position. Not hard to beliceve since 90% of my driving is straight. John

Knuckle bearings have been replaced. Hmmmmm

[inkpot]

Originally Posted by joel hj60

Knuckle bearings have been replaced. Hmmmmm

Howdy! Well, in that case, disregard. Have you got an aftermarket steering stabilizer that is hitting the front diff? I saw one on an FJ40 that was setup that way. (Just another guess, I guess?) John

[joel hj60]

Originally Posted by inkpot

Howdy! Well, in that case, disregard. Have you got an aftermarket steering stabilizer that is hitting the front diff? I saw one on an FJ40 that was setup that way. (Just another guess, I guess?) John

Nooo nothing like that.

[151fab]

If your tires are older than your front-end rebuild than they may have already been cupped. Once a tire is cupped it will continue to cup further, it will not "un-cup". If you have too much toe-in that could be causing the problems as well. You only want about 1/8".

Also possible, but less likely: your spring hanger and shackle bushings can be worn so badly that it would effect the steering play, a cracked or otherwise damaged leaf could also be a cause. Remember your pushing against the bushings/leafs when you steer because these are the only things locating the axle laterally.

You want to check all this first, before you start shimming in caster, because adding a butt-load of caster will hide all the other problems you might be having as well as wear everything out sooner due to excessive steering effort put on the system.

[joel hj60]

VERY novice question but I'll ask anyway. How much affect does the shims under the steering arms influence the steering?

My steering has developed a nasty wander around 80km/h...

ALL tyres are new, same pressures. Knuckles are good as far as I know. Last time I did my LH knuckle the top bearing race came out VERY easily, could this be a drama?