FJ62 Radiator Advice Needed: Repair or Replace?

Rigger · 05-09-08, 11:36 PM

My '62 has a leaky radiator; appears to be puking coolant right up top where the top part connects to the fin tubes.

I'm trying to decide: should I pull it out and have it repaired or should I replace it with a new one? If I replace it, should I go OEM or aftermarket?

One benefit to replacing it with a new one is I'd have it right there and there would be limited down time. Pull, replace, and drive it.

One benefit to repairing what I have is that it's factory and I like keeping the stock stuff.

Other Q's:

Are there direct bolt-in replacements available that perform better than stock?

On the tear-down, do I have to discharge the A/C system like the shop manual says? Seems like I read that maybe I don't need to do that.

Do you guys have some advice? I have searched and read some threads already, but still could use some more advice. I'll be grateful for any help related to any part of my dilemma. I need to decide which way to go because this thing is leaking.

Thanks in advance. You guys always come through for me.

Texx · 05-10-08, 12:38 AM

Factory radiators for the 62 are very pricey, aftermarket should be just about as good, No reason most radiator shops (around here, anyway) couldn't have your radiator rodded out and or recored in a day, especially if you pull it yourself. You can work around the a/c lines without disconnecting. There may be some better aftermarket radiator,but if everything else in your cooling system is up to snuff, there's no reason to need it. Your system was designed for your vehicle, no improvement needed if engine is stock. If your radiator is seriously clogged (radiator shop can give you a precentage), you need to look at the heater core as well.

cruiserpants · 05-10-08, 12:51 AM

I replaced mine this winter with a CSF brand, 4 core, radiator from MAF. It was around $300, and bolted right in. You will reuse the existing mounts from your old radiator, as well as reusing the two trans line adaptors.
Did not disconnect the AC system, just unbolted the AC condenser, and moved it enough to get at the mounting bolts. At the same time, I opted to replace all the hoses (22 in all – if I remember right

) including: rear heater, by-pass, EFI cooling hoses, oil cooler hoses, etc. Also replaced the water pump, thermostat and belts. Felt that it was time to start fresh.
Everything worked great, and I was done with it the same day.

ILikePie · 05-10-08, 01:45 AM

I had about the same problem with the radiator in my 62, tried fixing it twice it kept coming back, replaced it with a factory rad and no problems for years, still looks new

3_puppies · 05-10-08, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiserpants

Did not disconnect the AC system, just unbolted the AC condenser, and moved it enough to get at the mounting bolts. At the same time, I opted to replace all the hoses (22 in all – if I remember right

) including: rear heater, by-pass, EFI cooling hoses, oil cooler hoses, etc. Also replaced the water pump, thermostat and belts. Felt that it was time to start fresh.
Everything worked great, and I was done with it the same day.

X2 it's all drained....replace all the hoses. do it once. and with the rad out it's easy to get to most of the hoses, maybe belts also.

Wile E Coyote · 05-10-08, 05:56 PM

I'm gonna say def. replace, and not repair. Header-to-tube leaks (what you are describing) are not the strongest or easiest area to repair, and think about why it leaked...the metal corroded through. If that area is corroded, then so are others. No reason to pay OEM prices here, as the aftermarket ones work well and are almost half the price.

Landpimp · 05-11-08, 08:02 AM

always been happest with a new rad, I like the ones Performance Rad sells, used 3 of them now, as good as OEM

cruiser88 · 05-11-08, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wile E Coyote

I'm gonna say def. replace, and not repair. Header-to-tube leaks (what you are describing) are not the strongest or easiest area to repair, and think about why it leaked...the metal corroded through. If that area is corroded, then so are others. No reason to pay OEM prices here, as the aftermarket ones work well and are almost half the price.

x2....on all accounts

rfj62 · 05-11-08, 08:31 PM

Just got a new radiator for my '89 from performance radiator and very happy with the results. Shipped to my house within 2 days, fit perfectly. Also, if you get a CSF radiator be careful where you get it, Radiator Barn has the wrong one listed and will send you the wrong one (2709 was wider, filler neck on the wrong side, trans cooler were universal and not threaded), trust me I know. The problem is that CSF's website has the wrong one listed for an '89, I believe it should be the 2708. http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...barn-help.html

Rigger · 05-11-08, 08:47 PM

Thanks, all, for your help. As I understand it, I should have a 4 row, not a 3 row. Radiator Barn has a 3 row.

Should I get one direct from Performance Radiator? Theirs is $374. It is part number 13CBR. Does anyone know if there's a place to get one for less?

Landpimp · 05-12-08, 07:43 AM

been 2-3 years but ours from Performance was under $200, the wherehouse is local and we got a little discount but cant imagine they went up that much, seems close to Toyota OEM price

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rigger

Thanks, all, for your help. As I understand it, I should have a 4 row, not a 3 row. Radiator Barn has a 3 row.

Should I get one direct from Performance Radiator? Theirs is $374. It is part number 13CBR. Does anyone know if there's a place to get one for less?

rfj62 · 05-12-08, 12:53 PM

Yeah, I ended up paying around $375 with free delivery, took no more then 2 days. If I'm not mistaken the factory ones are $600, no discounts.

89GASHOG · 05-12-08, 01:54 PM

CCOT has a 4 core replacement for $300- which is what I bought a few months ago. It arrived with a somewhat bent filler neck, which didn't please me, but it's working fine.

Rigger · 05-12-08, 10:04 PM

I've never bought anything from CCOT, so I made this radiator my first CCOT purchase. They had the best price I could find for a 4 row unit. $300 + $30 for the ride. I went with it. (Thanks for the suggestion, GasHog.)

I'm gonna do this radiator project as a warm up for the valve adjust.

If I get these two things done successfully, I may even tackle the oil pan gasket!

Rigger · 05-12-08, 10:13 PM

cruiserpants and 3_pups:

Thanks for the advice on the belts and hoses. I'm doing that, too.

cruiserpants · 05-12-08, 10:28 PM

Quote:

"cruiserpants and 3_pups:

Thanks for the advice on the belts and hoses. I'm doing that, too."

You are very welcome, glad to help!

Good luck on the project!

Rigger · 05-21-08, 08:30 AM

All:

My radiator arrived yesterday. It was double boxed and it appears to have made the trip without any damage. CCOT also threw in a free set of wiper blades and one of their license plate frames.

I'll update this thread as the radiator and hose replacement project proceeds. I welcome suggestions and comments.

Rigger · 05-26-08, 05:25 PM

As I was installing the new radiator, I noticed that mine DID have some shipping damage. A slight deformation of the outer edge of the filler neck. Obviously, mine took a hit in shipping just like Gashog's did.

I was able to straighten it with pliers.

I really screwed up the thermostat gasket install. I got too hasty, and ruined the gasket.

The thing leaked like crazy. I had to pull it all apart and start again with a new gasket and MORE PATIENCE & CARE! Second time was perfect.

Oh, and I did cut the shroud. That's a good move.

05-09-08, 11:36 PM	#1
Rigger Two Many Cruisers Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montana Posts: 790	FJ62 Radiator Advice Needed: Repair or Replace? My '62 has a leaky radiator; appears to be puking coolant right up top where the top part connects to the fin tubes. I'm trying to decide: should I pull it out and have it repaired or should I replace it with a new one? If I replace it, should I go OEM or aftermarket? One benefit to replacing it with a new one is I'd have it right there and there would be limited down time. Pull, replace, and drive it. One benefit to repairing what I have is that it's factory and I like keeping the stock stuff. Other Q's: Are there direct bolt-in replacements available that perform better than stock? On the tear-down, do I have to discharge the A/C system like the shop manual says? Seems like I read that maybe I don't need to do that. Do you guys have some advice? I have searched and read some threads already, but still could use some more advice. I'll be grateful for any help related to any part of my dilemma. I need to decide which way to go because this thing is leaking. Thanks in advance. You guys always come through for me. __________________ Now a TLCA member '70 FJ40; a work in progress '89 FJ62; OME, 33's, & a MUD sticker "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." -- H. L. Mencken

05-10-08, 12:38 AM	#2
Texx IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 1,957	Factory radiators for the 62 are very pricey, aftermarket should be just about as good, No reason most radiator shops (around here, anyway) couldn't have your radiator rodded out and or recored in a day, especially if you pull it yourself. You can work around the a/c lines without disconnecting. There may be some better aftermarket radiator,but if everything else in your cooling system is up to snuff, there's no reason to need it. Your system was designed for your vehicle, no improvement needed if engine is stock. If your radiator is seriously clogged (radiator shop can give you a precentage), you need to look at the heater core as well. __________________ world's cleanest 89 FJ-62, and a few parts... 85 xcab hilux 4x4 resto'ed, 67 XKE, 1500 Vulcan, 80 Fj40 restored 03 Tacoma TRD SR5, Suzuki DR350 ANYBODY BUT OBAMA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

05-10-08, 12:51 AM	#3
cruiserpants IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Great Northwest Posts: 83	I replaced mine this winter with a CSF brand, 4 core, radiator from MAF. It was around $300, and bolted right in. You will reuse the existing mounts from your old radiator, as well as reusing the two trans line adaptors. Did not disconnect the AC system, just unbolted the AC condenser, and moved it enough to get at the mounting bolts. At the same time, I opted to replace all the hoses (22 in all – if I remember right ) including: rear heater, by-pass, EFI cooling hoses, oil cooler hoses, etc. Also replaced the water pump, thermostat and belts. Felt that it was time to start fresh. Everything worked great, and I was done with it the same day. __________________ Are the voices in my head bothering you? 1989 FJ62, OME lift, 33" BFG A/T's & a new air freshener

05-10-08, 05:56 PM	#6
Wile E Coyote IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lake Havasu and Kingman, AZ Posts: 1,239	I'm gonna say def. replace, and not repair. Header-to-tube leaks (what you are describing) are not the strongest or easiest area to repair, and think about why it leaked...the metal corroded through. If that area is corroded, then so are others. No reason to pay OEM prices here, as the aftermarket ones work well and are almost half the price. __________________ ="Are you gonna sit there on that friggin computer all day or what?" The desert dwellin, roadrunner chasin, soooper-genius! '90 FJ 62, '08 Scion head unit, chopped quarters and rockers, bedlined exterior, and mostly stock. My soft wheeler and DD. '85 Dodge Ramcharger a little built, and a little beat. My hard wheeler.

05-11-08, 08:31 PM	#9
rfj62 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Downingtown, PA TLCA# 12498 Posts: 136	Just got a new radiator for my '89 from performance radiator and very happy with the results. Shipped to my house within 2 days, fit perfectly. Also, if you get a CSF radiator be careful where you get it, Radiator Barn has the wrong one listed and will send you the wrong one (2709 was wider, filler neck on the wrong side, trans cooler were universal and not threaded), trust me I know. The problem is that CSF's website has the wrong one listed for an '89, I believe it should be the 2708. http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...barn-help.html __________________ 1989 FJ62 Stock Trying to make a DD

05-10-08, 01:45 AM	#4
ILikePie IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Fairbanks, AK TLCA# 14625 Posts: 89	I had about the same problem with the radiator in my 62, tried fixing it twice it kept coming back, replaced it with a factory rad and no problems for years, still looks new

05-11-08, 08:02 AM	#7
Landpimp IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Gig Harbor WA TLCA# 5506 Posts: 11,422	always been happest with a new rad, I like the ones Performance Rad sells, used 3 of them now, as good as OEM

05-11-08, 08:47 PM	#10
Rigger Two Many Cruisers Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montana Posts: 790	Thanks, all, for your help. As I understand it, I should have a 4 row, not a 3 row. Radiator Barn has a 3 row. Should I get one direct from Performance Radiator? Theirs is $374. It is part number 13CBR. Does anyone know if there's a place to get one for less? __________________ Now a TLCA member '70 FJ40; a work in progress '89 FJ62; OME, 33's, & a MUD sticker "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." -- H. L. Mencken

05-12-08, 12:53 PM	#12
rfj62 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Downingtown, PA TLCA# 12498 Posts: 136	Yeah, I ended up paying around $375 with free delivery, took no more then 2 days. If I'm not mistaken the factory ones are $600, no discounts. __________________ 1989 FJ62 Stock Trying to make a DD

05-12-08, 01:54 PM	#13
89GASHOG IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Latitude 58 Posts: 672	CCOT has a 4 core replacement for $300- which is what I bought a few months ago. It arrived with a somewhat bent filler neck, which didn't please me, but it's working fine. __________________ Bret Juneau, Ak 1989 FJ62 3FE 122K 1992 Toy short cab 4x4 22RE 175K

05-12-08, 10:04 PM	#14
Rigger Two Many Cruisers Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montana Posts: 790	I've never bought anything from CCOT, so I made this radiator my first CCOT purchase. They had the best price I could find for a 4 row unit. $300 + $30 for the ride. I went with it. (Thanks for the suggestion, GasHog.) I'm gonna do this radiator project as a warm up for the valve adjust. If I get these two things done successfully, I may even tackle the oil pan gasket! __________________ Now a TLCA member '70 FJ40; a work in progress '89 FJ62; OME, 33's, & a MUD sticker "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." -- H. L. Mencken

05-12-08, 10:13 PM	#15
Rigger Two Many Cruisers Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montana Posts: 790	cruiserpants and 3_pups: Thanks for the advice on the belts and hoses. I'm doing that, too. __________________ Now a TLCA member '70 FJ40; a work in progress '89 FJ62; OME, 33's, & a MUD sticker "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." -- H. L. Mencken

05-21-08, 08:30 AM	#17
Rigger Two Many Cruisers Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montana Posts: 790	All: My radiator arrived yesterday. It was double boxed and it appears to have made the trip without any damage. CCOT also threw in a free set of wiper blades and one of their license plate frames. I'll update this thread as the radiator and hose replacement project proceeds. I welcome suggestions and comments. __________________ Now a TLCA member '70 FJ40; a work in progress '89 FJ62; OME, 33's, & a MUD sticker "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." -- H. L. Mencken

05-26-08, 05:25 PM	#18
Rigger Two Many Cruisers Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montana Posts: 790	As I was installing the new radiator, I noticed that mine DID have some shipping damage. A slight deformation of the outer edge of the filler neck. Obviously, mine took a hit in shipping just like Gashog's did. I was able to straighten it with pliers. I really screwed up the thermostat gasket install. I got too hasty, and ruined the gasket. The thing leaked like crazy. I had to pull it all apart and start again with a new gasket and MORE PATIENCE & CARE! Second time was perfect. Oh, and I did cut the shroud. That's a good move. __________________ Now a TLCA member '70 FJ40; a work in progress '89 FJ62; OME, 33's, & a MUD sticker "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." -- H. L. Mencken

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