[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by lehiguy

Let's face it, the motor has very limited potential with the reverse flow head and a two-ton, four-bearing crankshaft.

I don't agree

[lehiguy]

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

I don't agree

Why not? It's a fact that it has less than ideal crankshaft support, a good inline six should have seven main bearings, these have only four and the crank weighs an absurd amount, it will never be able to spin very fast. A reverse flow head will never match a cross flow head. Even the reciprocating mass is ridiculous! Look at the rods, they weigh twice what a SBC rod weighs. You can't expect to defy the laws of physics and push 300 HP out of a 2F and think that it will last very long. Remember the origins of this beast? It is derived from the old "Stovebolt Six", an inline six found in Chevy trucks starting in 1929! It reached 235 CI in 1954. From that, the original F was a virtual carbon copy. The 2F has some potential, it can run SOOO much beter than it does in stock trim, but it is in fact, very limited by today's standards because of it's physical properties. Love it for what it is, but don't expect V8 like performance, there is a reason for which Toyota stoped building it.

[CruisinFJ60]

i dont think he is looking at pushing 300hp.... more like 400ish... CLICK ME

what about a 2FE bored .30 over a larger cam would help then... miledge is of no concern to me on my stroker build as long as it is fun and can be reliable.

[Mace]

I always love people that claim a 350 hp V8

BTW,
Isky did a custom grind on a cam for my turbo 2F (different intake and exhaust profiles) and The Rocker arm dudes regound my stock lifters for like $30 or so.


Can't wait to try it out

[lehiguy]

Originally Posted by CruisinFJ60

i dont think he is looking at pushing 300hp.... more like 400ish... CLICK ME

what about a 2FE bored .30 over a larger cam would help then... miledge is of no concern to me on my stroker build as long as it is fun and can be reliable.

Reliability is a huge thing to consider. I checked your link there, somebody has more money than sense. And how long will that hold together? Not very long would be my bet. I'm also guilty, I have crossed the line of diminishing returns so often that it's become habit. The most fun I had with my Cruiser was when it was still spring under with OMEs, a healthy 2F and a five speed. I love my 350 and I'm never going back, but those were the most effective mods giving me the best return for my money and effort.

[FJ40Jim]

what about a 2FE bored .30 over a larger cam would help then... miledge is of no concern to me on my stroker build as long as it is fun and can be reliable.

Might as well bore 1.5mm O/S. Pistons, rings and bore costs the same regardless.

The 1.5mm will increase displacement to 4.4L, but it will also increase CR to 8.7 with no milling on the head.

Be careful not to overmill and end up w/ 9.5:1. The price of premium gas makes that a spendy proposition.

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by CruisinFJ60

i dont think he is looking at pushing 300hp.... more like 400ish... CLICK ME

what about a 2FE bored .30 over a larger cam would help then... miledge is of no concern to me on my stroker build as long as it is fun and can be reliable.

Originally Posted by lehiguy

somebody has more money than sense.

That be me

[MiniPigg]

Ive got a bit of a budget to work with and only two months to get everything done and work out any bugs. We are moving back to Washington State this summer and I would really like to drive my 62 back.

So I guess for me right now the best price is going to be either the Isky or Delta for a regrind and have the lifters reconditioned by either Delta or Rockerarm.

Aren't they both going to do the same job, using the same technology and tools, no matter what which one I send the cam to?

I know Delta wants 10 bucks extra per cam lobe that needs to be repaired. Not sure if Isky is a flat price or if they are going to charge per lobe repair?


I just want to get the best bang for my dollar. On a budget I can only afford so much at this time. I can always upgrade parts later.

So who has the best advice for someone in my shoes?

[Mace]

isky and rocker arm..

[MiniPigg]

Originally Posted by Mace

isky and rocker arm..

Now to figure our which grind to get. I am looking more for fuel economy. And since I drive all my Land Cruisers as if they are farm tractors the power doesn't really matter. I figure the 2-FE is going to put out enough on its own.

I dont expect to lift it any higher then 2.5 inches and 31's or 32's. I don't tow anything, and if I do it will be a small trailer.

[Mace]

ask ron..

[lehiguy]

This has been a fun exchange! I didn't realize that someone here had gone to the extreme with the 2F. I always thought it would do a turbo becuase of the relatively low CR. But all this still begs the question; if you're going all out for power, why take a slow engine and make it fast at some rediculous cost, when you can take a motor that's already fast and make it faster for a fraction of the cost? Cool factor is one thing, but jeez!

[CruisinFJ60]

Originally Posted by lehiguy

This has been a fun exchange! I didn't realize that someone here had gone to the extreme with the 2F. I always thought it would do a turbo becuase of the relatively low CR. But all this still begs the question; if you're going all out for power, why take a slow engine and make it fast at some rediculous cost, when you can take a motor that's already fast and make it faster for a fraction of the cost? Cool factor is one thing, but jeez!

cool factor thats all

[Trollhole]

Originally Posted by lehiguy

This has been a fun exchange! I didn't realize that someone here had gone to the extreme with the 2F. I always thought it would do a turbo becuase of the relatively low CR. But all this still begs the question; if you're going all out for power, why take a slow engine and make it fast at some rediculous cost, when you can take a motor that's already fast and make it faster for a fraction of the cost? Cool factor is one thing, but jeez!

Pssst. Over here.






Shhhh.



















Don't tell this to anyone.























Some of us like Toyota parts.

[lehiguy]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

Pssst. Over here.






Shhhh.



















Don't tell this to anyone.























Some of us like Toyota parts.

I feel the same, however, I'm slowly learning to like American made stuff. I have never broken a single piece of any of my Toyotas. And two of them had healthy V8s powering them. But it's hard to argue with the simplicity, availability and durability of some of the domestic stuff. I love that I can rebuild an NP241 with just two tools and I don't have to split it in two to get it off the trans. And parts are cheap! Now there is this Bimmer I drive.... this may have to go, what a maintainence whore!

[matt.mcinnes]

[CruisinFJ60]

BWAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!

[FJ40Jim]

Some tech info just as reference:

Stock camshaft has 250deg duration, gross, intake & exhaust.

The specs that are published for the CS803 billet are:
duration @.050;
Intake 189deg.
Exh 193deg.
Lobe center 116.5

HTH.

[MiniPigg]

I just wanted to get everyones opinion one more time before I send out the cam and lifters. I just want to be sure I am doing the right thing.

I thought about just sending the cam to Isky but they are just going to grind down the cam without building anything up. Or that was my impression. Delta said they would build the cam up so when it gets reground it will be pretty much like it was when new. I was thinking about just sending them th lifters to get resurfaced. I am going to have them use the cast iron cam gear.

Any words of advice before I send the whole lot of them off to medical experiments?

[tonkota]

I'm taking my cam out today and send it off to Delta Cam with my lifters. I called them last week. With getting my cam built up/reground and my lifters reground, a bottle of some zinc phosphate oil stuff they recommend for cam break in the total comes to $125 +/- with tax. I'm anxious to see how the engine responds to the new cam. I liked the 2F-E before this. Plus I'll have the McNamara in by then too.

[MiniPigg]

Originally Posted by tonkota

I'm taking my cam out today and send it off to Delta Cam with my lifters. I called them last week. With getting my cam built up/reground and my lifters reground, a bottle of some zinc phosphate oil stuff they recommend for cam break in the total comes to $125 +/- with tax. I'm anxious to see how the engine responds to the new cam. I liked the 2F-E before this. Plus I'll have the McNamara in by then too.

I was confused about the price. The guy on the phone said it would be ten dollars a lobe to repair. That was after I asked about worn lobes. I thought maybe he was talking about worn lobes would be ten dollars each to build up prior to regrinding the cam?

I would really love to get a McNamara vacuum locker. That would be sweet. I think my rear drive on the transmission is still good so no need to replace that just yet. Plus the transmission and tcase were rebuilt about 25K ago.

[Moby]

Originally Posted by tonkota

I'm taking my cam out today and send it off to Delta Cam with my lifters. I called them last week. With getting my cam built up/reground and my lifters reground, a bottle of some zinc phosphate oil stuff they recommend for cam break in the total comes to $125 +/- with tax. I'm anxious to see how the engine responds to the new cam. I liked the 2F-E before this. Plus I'll have the McNamara in by then too.

You will like the new cam with that extra displacement

[tonkota]

Originally Posted by Moby

You will like the new cam with that extra displacement

I think so. I just got the GD crankshaft nut off last night. What a PITA. I'll have the cam out tonight and ship it off tomorrow. I'll take some pics of the cam before and after, just to see.

[Trollhole]

Originally Posted by tonkota

I think so. I just got the GD crankshaft nut off last night. What a PITA. I'll have the cam out tonight and ship it off tomorrow. I'll take some pics of the cam before and after, just to see.

I feel your pain. In the vehicle it's not that hard using the starter. Out of the vhicle I think you would break the engine stand before it came off. I had a 700ft/lb impact gun that I tried using. Didn't budge.

[tonkota]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

I feel your pain. In the vehicle it's not that hard using the starter. Out of the vhicle I think you would break the engine stand before it came off. I had a 700ft/lb impact gun that I tried using. Didn't budge.

I tried everything I could think of to get that bitch off. 4' cheater pipe on a 1/2" drive breaker bar.

I finally said "eff this!!" I got the impact (again) and just let it hammer for about 5 minutes straight. I'm sure the neighbors loved me at 8pm rattling away I think mine is rated at about 500 ft. pounds at 90 psi.

[MiniPigg]

I just use a sledge hammer and hit it on the corner of the hex in the direction I want it to go. Took me a couple minutes to get the one lose on the 1977 2F engine and about ten minutes with a heavy hammer and a heavy punch on the 3FE engine.

[Moby]

I've got a really good way to get the nut off. First, figure out a way to crack your harmonic dampner. You'll start to leak oil, just a little bit. Probably notice it just on the steering dampner. Spend a couple of months checking and tightening various other things like the front cover and oil pan. Drive the truck from Seattle to Sacramento. On the drive back the crank nut will finally work its way loose due to vibrations from the broken dampner. Eventually it will unscrew to the point where the fan will hit it on a long uphill outside of Grant's Pass. The nut will chew up the fan until the fan eventually pursuades the nut to come completely out. You'll know when this happens. Pull over. Find the crank nut wedged in a corner of the frame and the fan in pieces. Get a fan from CruiserParts. Tighten as best as possible, with Locktite, and continue drive. Make an extra stop in Portland to have W and James at Over the Hill graciously stop their current work and tighten the nut again. Finish drive. Realize that no amount of tightening seems to fix the problem. Tear the engine down and rebuild. Enjoy the new engine for several years without any problems.

There, simple as pie

[tonkota]

Well that is one way to do it

[MiniPigg]

Orrrr... you can just cut it off with a plasma cutter.

[tonkota]

Delta Camshaft has my cam, it is being ground right now. The total came to $128 for the KC grind, lifters ground and a bottle of zinc phosphate and assembly lube. I should have the camshaft back by tomorrow or Thursday. I will start putting it back in Friday and Saturday I should be able to run it.

I'll post up my smile when I try it out.