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#1 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 26
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Replacing Tie Rods - what to buy?
Good Day, I'm in NW Montana (Kalispell) and am considering buying an FJ-60. I brought it in for an inspection and my mechanic was pretty impressed with it's upkeep. He said the only thing he would suggest is a possible body work due to early stages of rust under the chrome lining and the Tie Rods are really worn and in need of replacement. Truth is, I'm sold on this Cruiser. I love it. But tie rods are somewhat important to have working, no? I have a small Fiat and have rebuilt several Fiats and Ferraris (which don't handle well, if at all up here in the Montana snow!!), so I'm familiar with repairs and am confident in my ability to do the repair myself. I just want to make sure I'm getting the necessary/correct parts. I have a tendency to not buy the correct things and wait another week for the parts to come in! So, the mechanic said all the tie rods need to be replaced. Will this kit take care of that, or is there something more I should be buying? Again, I'm familiar with Fiats/Ferraris, Toyotas are foreign ground for me! Tie Rod Kit Any input and advice will be appreciated. I can say that it will almost certainly be adhered to as well. Your future Land Cruiser owner, Jon
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#2 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 26
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Replacing Tie Rods - what to buy?
Good Day, I'm in NW Montana (Kalispell) and am considering buying an FJ-60. I brought it in for an inspection and my mechanic was pretty impressed with it's upkeep. He said the only thing he would suggest is a possible body work due to early stages of rust under the chrome lining and the Tie Rods are really worn and in need of replacement.
Truth is, I'm sold on this Cruiser. I love it. But tie rods are somewhat important to have working, no? I have a small Fiat and have rebuilt several Fiats and Ferraris (which don't handle well, if at all up here in the Montana snow!!), so I'm familiar with repairs and am confident in my ability to do the repair myself. I just want to make sure I'm getting the necessary/correct parts. I have a tendency to not buy the correct things and wait another week for the parts to come in! So, the mechanic said all the tie rods need to be replaced. Will this kit take care of that, or is there something more I should be buying? Again, I'm familiar with Fiats/Ferraris, Toyotas are foreign ground for me! Tie Rod Kit Any input and advice will be appreciated. I can say that it will almost certainly be adhered to as well. Your future Land Cruiser owner, Jon (edited to insert breaks/paragraphs) |
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#3 |
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Rum Runnin'
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That looks like it's the kit. I haven't done it myself, but that is the kit. It's on sale too!!
__________________ 1987 FJ60 - MoonShine - 62 springs, add-a-leaf, 33's, KMR's Tailgate Hatch, desmog + headers, storage / sleeping system, etc. -- 228k miles 1967 Stevens Mfg. Co M416 - almost RUST FREE!!! "Fluids have a purpose, Liquids are just there..." -TJP |
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#4 |
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IH8MUD VOYEUR
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Really easy job to do, when you take the old TRE off just count how many full rotations (treads) till off, then re-thread that many turns, and have it re-aligned. You will want a pickle fork (for removing TRE's) a big hammer, and maybe a couple of pipe wrenches. Good luck
__________________ '76 FJ55-ARB's/4x4labs/Longs/60ps/60axles/SOA/H55/Custom Awsome Driver! Matching FJ55- trailer-being setup for long range travel '89 FJ62-350/700R4/reversal/longAAL/33's/18"Mojave's/blacked out '69 FJ40-lots of mods, many more to come |
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#5 |
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IH8MUD Regular
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Don't be afraid to really smack it with the pickle fork and the
hammer till it comes apart. A heavy hammer and a good solid bunch of whacks until it comes apart. __________________ White 1987 FJ60. www.marlincrawler.com Member: TCLA #18387, Central Valley Crawlers |
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#6 |
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V8J60 - TPI
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I highly recommend buying OEM Toyota tie rod ends. The Original ones last much longer and are of the highest quality. But the quality always comes at a price. As an alternative I would recommend the Japanese made "555" brand tie rod ends. Be careful as there are Chinese made "555" kits out there as well. Overall this is not a difficult job but it is made easier with a tie rod end puller, a pickle fork will work too since you are replacing them and don't care about their condition upon removal.
Dynosoar
__________________ '82 V8J60 - TPI 350 with a Turbo 400 attached to a splitcase, Cable Locker FF rear end, 4" SUA (National Spring), Copper Metalic Has been south to Cabo San Lucas, BCS and North to Port Angels,WA. Call Sign: KI6SMP |
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#7 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Call up Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters (see the vendor page here). He'll take care of you for a great price on the 555 kit.
__________________ Joel ----- "Birds have nests, foxes have dens but the hope of the whole world lay on the shoulders of a homeless man." - R. Mullins 82 FJ60 - normal stuff 68 FJ40 - gone 88 FJ62 - gone Jefferson State Cruisers |
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#8 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Lake Havasu and Kingman, AZ
Posts: 1,137
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I'll 2nd cruiser outfitters (Kurt) and add a little nitpick of the other advice above. Personally, I'd count the # of exposed threads on the rod ends, instead of how many it takes to thread off.
__________________ ="Are you gonna sit there on that friggin computer all day or what?"The desert dwellin, roadrunner chasin, soooper-genius! '90 FJ 62, '08 Scion head unit, chopped quarters and rockers, bedlined exterior, and mostly stock. My soft wheeler and DD. '85 Dodge Ramcharger a little built, and a little beat. My hard wheeler. |
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#9 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 1,727
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I'll third call Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters he will take care of you. Just ordered a set from him myself.
__________________ 1974 Toyota FJ40 (sold Jan 27) 1985 Toyota FJ60 two-tone, Safari Rack, OME Heavy,33x9.5's, custom front/rear bumpers, fully sound deadened, Alpine H/U, Rainbow components, dual v12 amps, 12" Type_R, Mot's Lights. |
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#10 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Belton, Texas
Posts: 439
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We just did ours a month or two ago.
Just be sure to have a tie rod end fork, and a very heavy hammer. And smash away til them suckers pop. Just re-thread to the same area and go get it re-aligned. __________________ 1984 FJ60, 170 Thousand Miles, OME, 33x10.5x15 BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO, 15x8 Eagle 058 Alloys |
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#11 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Grantsville, UT
Posts: 80
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I replaced mine several monthis ago just by myself. It was real easy. Oh and definatly use a hammer like they said.
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#12 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 847
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I too have had good luck with Cruiser Outfitter's tie rod kits. Get the NAPA pickle fork and a big hammer. Get a Toyota Field Serice Manual if you can. After you install the TREs, you probably will want to have someone do a wheel alignment check. THere are only two adjustments that they can do for you (toe-in and setting the steering wheel straight) so if the alignment shop starts talking big money, walk away. I pay $42 for alignment check and the aforementioned adjustments. You can actually do both yourself. The toe in probably will not be as precise but who am I to say. There are several threads about it that you can find with the search function. Welcome.
__________________ 1986 FJ60, Champagne Bronze, Custom Bumpers, 33X9.5s, Desmogged, Alpine CD, Wet Okole front seat covers, some Dynamat, ARB in rear, 4.11 gears. OME lift, bedliner on rocker panels. Tinted rear windows accented with dog snot. 1987 FJ60 Dark Blue Metallic, 31X10.5s, 130K, Desmogged. |
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#13 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
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Tie Rod Ends
I purchased this same kit from CCOT for my 62 about a year ago. The kit worked pefectly for me.
My experience was not only did the fork and big hammer work but knowing just how to position the fork was helpful. I also had a tough time with the end attached to the steering damper so I would reccomend you remove it first, I ended up replacing my steering damper because I damaged the old one. It needed it anyway but was not quiet ready to spend the money. Position the fork and hit it hard, they will eventually pop right off. If I did it, it is not that hard of a job. Good luck. Kenley __________________ 1989 FJ 62 |
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#14 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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I bought the kit from SOR for our wagon. Only one end gave us a bad time. I used an air hammer and a fork to take them off. Super easy that way, but loud.
Fix it again Tony
__________________ A Ron Using one cruiser to go mountain biking, and the other to collect dust. 2F-E Article McNamara gear writeup |
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#15 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 26
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WOW!!!
Gents, I posted this and then left for a few High School basketball games. I return and there are already 11 replies!! This community is awesome! I really appreciate the advice. I've replaced TREs on quite a few Fiats and fortunately, have a nice set of tools (to include the fork) which should make the job real easy. I have the sick way of coming to my conclusion on cost of parts.. I go to the nearest dealer ship get a quote on parts and labor, half that and set that as my budget for repairs. The dealership here in Kalispell wants 460 for parts, 185 for labor. I always feel like I save so much money! Thanks for all the replies and help on choosing vendors. It's good to see some confidence in specific vendors and brands. It makes buying the parts so much easier! I'm really impressed by the responsiveness, thanks again! Jon
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#16 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 48
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I will also be ordering the Cool Cruisers kit for my FJ62...hopefully I have a big enough pickle fork
__________________ 1990 Land Cruiser 2004 WRX |
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#17 |
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KI6MIE
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Just one more opinion. The 555 Kit from Cruiser outfitters or Mudrak is just fine. I'm running that now. It can be a massive biatch to unscrew the old ones from the threads of the tie rod or drag link. The Toyota ones are also great and the new ends often come with the rod!
Just my opinion, but CCoT brings the suckage. Mostly cheap knock off parts from China or Taiwan. I don't know about the tie rod kit, but I would step carefully with them. This is just my opinion so draw your own conclusions. __________________ Andrew 1971 FJ-40 Rubicon tested 1976 FJ40 RIP 1984 FJ-60 H55f, 4.11, OME, Daily Driver 1989 FJ-62 117k-son's driver for now. 1997 FZJ-80 Factory sub-tank, and other tricks |
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#18 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: The Sunshine State
Posts: 1,605
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x3 Toyota.......
Although I did run the 555's on my 40 w/o any issues. __________________ 82 Fj60 TurkeyWizz THXAL 88 BJ62 Family Truckster http://nfcruiserheads.org/forum/index.php |
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#19 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 26
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I've decided to go with Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. They're having a sale for $90, so it's only about 20 more than the first one I found, and it appears he is a very reputable dealer. I'm all about giving my money to one of the 'local boys' with a good rep. So I'll be giving him some calls over the next few days!
Thanks again! |
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#20 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Posts: 1,727
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he won't steer you wrong, no pun intended
__________________ 1974 Toyota FJ40 (sold Jan 27) 1985 Toyota FJ60 two-tone, Safari Rack, OME Heavy,33x9.5's, custom front/rear bumpers, fully sound deadened, Alpine H/U, Rainbow components, dual v12 amps, 12" Type_R, Mot's Lights. |
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#21 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 11
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My experience...
I JUST finished installing the CCOT kit, which was on sale.
Nice kit, good price, They are marked 555 "Three Five", Hwang Wu Co, Ltd. Are they chinese ? Dunno. Guess we'll know after a year of use ! Order a UNIVERSAL TIE ROD END PULLER for $40. I rented a small pitman arm puller from auto zone, but it was too big. If you've never removed your steering stabilizer, expect that one to be hard to get off. (And now is a good time to install a new one.) Procedure to remove tie rod end: Loosen castle nut so there's 1/4" of play, Soak with PB blaster Tighten up puller smack with a big hammer. I ran into problems with the relay rod that connects to the steering arm. If, like me, something fails and you mangle the castle nut, and round off the top of the bolt, do the following: Hacksaw/dremel the top off the bolt until you get a clean/straight surface. Drill/tap the top of the bolt with a metal/tap bit (mostly so the puller will have a place to grab). Then tighten up puller, smack and she should come free. Be sure to clean out the threads and apply grease before threading in the new tie rod ends. |
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#22 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Glenwood Springs, Colorado
Posts: 166
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HELP!
O so I got everything removed and installed my TRE but I can't get the drag link end to get in enough to get any threads on the other side..I'm think maybe has to be pressed back on? Any suggestion on how to put this back on? Also, is there anything I need on the TRE (washers, etc) besides the castle nut? I broke my old TRE on the trail so don't know what was all on it! Though I just realized I can look at the other side! Oh well too lazy to delete that last line!
__________________ 1976 FJ40 FI Vortec 350..Orion..Hydro Assist..arb'd f&r..longfields..4.88's..Proffitt's semi resto..Proffitt's four link.. |
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#23 | |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 445
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Quote:
__________________ _____________________________________________ Yeah, I look like a grandpa driving it, but I still pull chicks. 84 FJ60 - 2F, 301k miles, 4.5" Alcans, 12" Bilstein 5150s, 35x12.5 XTerrains, Blazenoffroad.com winch bumper, magnaflow, rust, and an oil leak! |
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#24 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Great Northwest
Posts: 83
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Originally Posted by zgcruiser
"O so I got everything removed and installed my TRE but I can't get the drag link end to get in enough to get any threads on the other side..I'm think maybe has to be pressed back on?" If it looks like the one in the illustration below - It is a tight fit, but you should be able to push it on enough (with your hands) to get the nut started. Torque them to specs, and don't forget to put on the cotter pin.
__________________ Are the voices in my head bothering you? 1989 FJ62, OME lift, 33" BFG A/T's & a new air freshener |
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#25 |
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Just try and git it.
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Does "Toyota" offer a TRE kit? Or do I have to order all separately ?
Anything else that outta be replaced while I've got the front end apart?
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#26 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Hygiene, CO (seriously.)
Posts: 74
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Having just completed this job, I fully advocate penetrating oil, a big hammer, and lots of brute force. Seriously. I dented a pickle fork and broke a gear puller. They all came out eventually.
Also, when putting the new ends in, grease em up with a little anti-seize compound first. You'll realize why 100 000 miles later. __________________ 1987 FJ60 "Adelaide"---full project mode. ![]() 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500 pickup. Was my interim daily driver. Now also broken. ![]() ![]() 1978/80/81/83/89 Kawazuki Yamahonda. Also also broken. ![]() ![]()
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#27 |
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Just try and git it.
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I've always had trouble removing TRE's and various steering joints until I bought one of these:
OTC 7315A Universal TRE puller. I had the whole front end apart in 10 min. on my rusty-ass truck. Best 40 buck tool I ever bought. |
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#28 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
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