First Highway test of the 60- Overheated.

Doc · 08-08-04, 08:47 AM

I've been drivin' my 'new to me' 1987 FJ60 back and forth to work, and some short trips on the side for about three months now. Never really had the temp gauge move past 1/3.

Yesterday the wifey and I decide to try an extended road trip in it. 4 hours- 250 miles or so... Anyway, 20 miles into the trip the temp starts climbing. I turned off at the nearest exit and started back home.. and it kept climbing. I had to open the windows and blast the heat to keep it from pegging in the red. Slowing down actually made the problem worse. So I kept it at 50 mph and crossed my fingers.

The PO odviously neglected the truck. This is just one more sign. The coolant is green- and who knows if he flushed before he filled, probobly not.

So my plan of attack is this:

flush and fill with toyota red, check the thermostat and fan clutch.

Or should I just bite the bullet and buy a new rad?

Is there a good chemical I can add to a mostly water solution to really clean out those coolant passages? I could flush the green out, fill back with water and something like 10N NaOH (super basic but might eat the hoses?)

It was maddening to have to turn around on the first big test of this truck.

Good news- got the new tranny clutch installed last week. I had no idea HOW much the old one was slipping until the new one went in. I find myself driving too fast now, because I don't have to be careful with the gas pedal.

Cruiserdrew · 08-08-04, 08:57 AM

I would replace the thermostat(don't forget the upper gasket) and fan clutch for sure, and get a new radiator cap from Toyota. These are easy fixes and less than $200 total. You won't have to drain the system. If it still overheats, get a new radiator. Nothing will kill a Cruiser quicker than a bad cooling system.

cahilc · 08-08-04, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doc

Is there a good chemical I can add to a mostly water solution to really clean out those coolant passages?

Yup, forum search on "Muriatic Acid". Caveat emptor. Be careful.

Cahil

Boston Mangler · 08-08-04, 10:18 AM

Kinda Un Related but i just had my radiator replaced and the shop i had do it used the green stuff

is this ok?

cahilc · 08-08-04, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boston Mangler

Kinda Un Related but i just had my radiator replaced and the shop i had do it used the green stuff

is this ok?

I use green stuff.
:+)
Actions speak louder than words.
:+)

Cahil

P.S. Toyota Red might provide a longer interval for change and some other esoterical benefit ... I'll still use green.

humper99 · 08-08-04, 03:01 PM

I've heard of useing CLR to clean out a radiator. Safer than acid and won't eat up hoses. Drain it plug the bottom line, pour an entire bottle of CLR in and top with hot water. Let it sit and foam for awhile then flush the radiator real well. I'd try the new thermostat first. Cruising on the highway there should be enough airflow where the engine fan shouldn't be needed so you could kinda rule out the fan clutch. Also check the cooling fins of the radiator to make sure they are not bent up or clogged up with leaves, dead bugs, and dirt.

vtcruiser60 · 08-08-04, 06:16 PM

2F heads tend to crack, IMO. An 87 is a 3FE head, right Doc?

Before you start replacing radiators and flushing...why not try a cold and hot compression test. Cold, you will at least get some baseline on the cylinders. Watch for something greater than 15% difference between cylinders. Then try a c.test after it is piping hot. If you pull one of the plugs and antifreeze spews out....my guess is that you are going to want to do a flush, a new radiator, thermostat, and at least a new head gasket. While that head is off have the machinist check for cracks. Given that you have not had any overheating problems and this one happened oh so quickly, worsening as you drove, I am thinking you may have a crack. It could be repairable without much cost...but it might not.

Compression tests are fairly easy, and take less time than replacing thermostats, radiators, etc. Sorry to be lame with the worst case scenario......my wife calls it awful-zing.

rightlane · 08-08-04, 06:18 PM

a rad shop will boil out and repair any leaks for @ $60. im in az in 110 degrees and had a cooling problem. now i dont go past 1/2 w/ ac and idling.

hj60 · 08-08-04, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cahilc

P.S. Toyota Red might provide a longer interval for change and some other esoterical benefit ... I'll still use green.

I think the Toyota Red coolant is specifically designed for engines with aluminum
components.

cahilc · 08-08-04, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hj60

I think the Toyota Red coolant is specifically designed for engines with aluminum
components.

Good info ... Thanks.

Me be green !!!

Cahil

swank60 · 08-08-04, 09:17 PM

I wouldn't worry about the fan clutch - but replacing the rad cap is a good idea. You need to flush the hell out of it though - and good. You may want to find out how much it costs to rod out the rad - if it's over $200, don't do it, just consider a new one (got mine at carradiator.com - better than OEM)

Like I told lowtide, the general rule is this: if it's getting hot at highway speeds, it's a blocked up cooling system. If it gets hot in traffic, but cools when under speed, it's the fan clutch.

As far as antifreeze goes - antifreeze is anti-freeze, and I wouldn't worry about changing the thermostat just yet, either. You could pull it out and test it, and even run without it for a while (but then you're likely to never warm up) The thermostat can run you up to $50.

The most important thing you need to do is get that system flushed, check for hoses that may be kinked or blocked, and make sure it's moving coolant through the system and cooling it in the radiator.

swank60 · 08-08-04, 09:22 PM

here's an afterthought - might check the belt tension, too - if your belt is slipping at high speeds, you'll loose that flow, too.

(I had a heating problem, replaced the rad, and now mine stays at about 1/4.)

CTiger · 08-09-04, 01:29 AM

Use the green...it's supposed to be that way if u look in the manual

Doc · 08-09-04, 06:29 AM

I'm calling the mechanic this morning. Hopefully they'll be of some assistance.

and the 87 fj60 is a 2F engine... as far as I know!

Thanks for the pointers guys. I guess it's time to put some money in the 'beater'. Hopefully nothing is cracked yet, I didn't notice any white smoke out the exhaust pipe, so I think that's a good sign so far.

jhstatts · 08-09-04, 07:18 AM

Yeah, my 60 is an '87 and it has a 2F. Sorry to hear about your cooling problem, Doc.

Doc · 08-09-04, 01:25 PM

Ok. The radiator got some flushing....

Since I had the cash I decided to get both of the cruisers done, as I had no idea when the last time it was done on the 80 either.

The 80 did have some lovely gunk that came out.

The 60 did not.

So..... I'm going to 'highway' test it again tonight after work. I'm expecting it to get hot again though, since nothing abnormal was flushed out. My next guess is the radiator itself is restricting flow.

Damn.

Any suggestions for a GOOD replacement radiator? I think I'll want an 'upgrade', as in more rows, cores, whatever...

Doc · 08-09-04, 05:02 PM

Highway test- FAILED

New radiator time, suggestions? Should I do the whole shootin' match and get a new thermostat, and cap too?

kevin g · 08-09-04, 05:20 PM

Doc,
I kind of agree with Andrew (except the fan clutch part). Maybe just shell out the <<$100 for a new thermostat and radiator cap first, since it is probably prudent to replace those anyway when replacing a radiator. If they do not fix the problem, then look at the radiator and water pump.

Have you tried spraying your radiator with water after the cruiser is warmed up to find cold spots on the radiator? Areas that stay wet for a while indicate cold spots that indicate blockage.

swank60 · 08-09-04, 10:29 PM

If you decide to replace the radiator:

I went with carradiator.com - I did some research at the time and found a lot of compaints about the OEM radiator. They've got weak seams, etc. (that's how mine went - seams started to give out) - the one I got was a direct replacement and I haven't seen a hint of trouble, and the truck stays cool (just under a 1/4 on the gauge - always)

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Doc · 08-10-04, 06:48 AM

I called Carradiator.com and they did not have one instock, nor did they act like they really wanted to special order one for me.

The guy said he'd call me back today with an answer.

Ming89FJ62 · 08-10-04, 07:00 AM

Haven't used them personally but here's a possible source

http://performanceradiator.com/EStor...22=Next+%3E%3E

Good luck - Just be glad you're not trying to replace a rad for a FJ55

Ming

informationjunky · 08-10-04, 07:46 AM

There is a add in TT for radiators under $200, sorry I don't have it with me. Dont forget to burp your system afterwards. 2F's are bad to have air pockets in the head which can lead to a cracked head. Like swank said, if its over heating at highway speeds, your blocked up. Most likely the radiator or stuck thermostat ( parts store should have thermostat for about $10), try it first but you might as well change radiators if you plan on keeping her.

Doc · 08-10-04, 07:56 AM

Other than tossing my 60 over my shoulder and patting the roof, how does one go about 'burping' a Land Cruiser?

Cruiserdrew · 08-10-04, 08:49 AM

TO get the air out of a 60-Park it nose up on ramps, with and extra 2x6 under the passenger side front tire. Open both heaters full blast. Run the truck with the radiator cap off, adding coolant to keep it full. Squeeze the upper hose a few times to get out the air. Once there is no more air, put the cap on. Use a new cap or the air bubble will return if the old cap is failing (don't ask how I know!). Keep the resivoir full and check each time before you run it for 2-3 days. Then it should be good forever.

lowtideride · 08-10-04, 08:49 AM

doc,
did you check if one of your rad hoses is collapsing at highway speed. that would restrict flow and over heat ya. heard of it happening before.

good luck
-Al

kevin g · 08-10-04, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by informationjunky

There is a add in TT for radiators under $200, sorry I don't have it with me. Dont forget to burp your system afterwards. 2F's are bad to have air pockets in the head which can lead to a cracked head. Like swank said, if its over heating at highway speeds, your blocked up. Most likely the radiator or stuck thermostat ( parts store should have thermostat for about $10), try it first but you might as well change radiators if you plan on keeping her.

The add is from Cabe Toyota 877-803-2223. The advertised price is $139.00.

informationjunky · 08-10-04, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

TO get the air out of a 60-Park it nose up on ramps, with and extra 2x6 under the passenger side front tire. Open both heaters full blast. Run the truck with the radiator cap off, adding coolant to keep it full. Squeeze the upper hose a few times to get out the air. Once there is no more air, put the cap on. Use a new cap or the air bubble will return if the old cap is failing (don't ask how I know!). Keep the resivoir full and check each time before you run it for 2-3 days. Then it should be good forever.

you forgot jumping up and down on the front bumper ;-)

Doc · 08-10-04, 10:05 AM

How do I check to see if the hose is collapsing on the freeway? I don't fit inside the engine bay very well.

lowtideride · 08-10-04, 10:20 AM

do ya have a lil kid ya could shove in there?

60wag · 08-10-04, 10:25 AM

Its the lower hose that can collapse. If the rad is flowing well, the hose is less likely to collaspe but replacing the hose is pretty easy. Some hoses have a spring inside them to prevent collapse. If hose collapse was the only problem, I would expect the temp to return to normal as soon as you got off the highway and let the engine idle for a while. I wondering if you just have a gauge problem. Oh, on burping the system, I like to put a Prestone flush T in the upper heater hose to vent the air bubbles.