84 FJ60 Resto,

RS41AB · 02-28-08, 06:54 PM

Ok, good to know. To do the job right my windshield may need to be removed, but now I know I don't need to take the fenders off first!

Thanks again for checking for me.

SKINNER · 02-28-08, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by landbruiser60

looking real nice!!! Did you paint those rims?

No, they came powdercoated from 4WPW, however, they match the frame and axles really well.

SKINNER · 02-28-08, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RS41AB

Ok, good to know. To do the job right my windshield may need to be removed, but now I know I don't need to take the fenders off first!

Thanks again for checking for me.

Yeah, the only reason you'd have to take the fenders off is if you replaced the entire cowl, as it wraps down the outer firewall/upper forward door jamb.

SKINNER · 03-01-08, 05:18 PM

Pictures from last night/this morning. Drum brakes are rebuilt (shoes, drums, hardware), calipers rebuilt, trans, transfer, and OD resealed and cleaned/painted, clutch replaced, yada, yada, yada

Lets just get to the pics:

Werd.

haryv · 03-01-08, 10:44 PM

Skinner,

Thanks for showing all of us these phototos. Very extensive tear down and rebuild and repair job. Kind of reminds me of the extensive 9 month tear downs we did on our millitary aircraft. gives you a good peace of mind that nothing will happen to the body or frame for a very long time. Keep up the good work and dont spend to much time away from you wife of she may hate you.

SKINNER · 03-02-08, 07:53 PM

No pictures tonight, the weather was so nice today that I spent the majority of the day riding my motorcycle. But, this evening, I did get manage to get all of the fuel and brake lines installed on the frame and axles, and replace all of the flex hoses.

SKINNER · 03-15-08, 02:45 PM

Man, 2 weeks with no update...you guys need to hold me accountable.

Alright, since the chassis is basically completed (still need to rebuild both drive shafts and install the intake) I started focusing on the body.

I took the tank out last week to prepare for installing the fuel pump. I've decided to cut a hole in top of the tank with the same bolt pattern as the stock sender and then modify the stock sender to accept the GM fuel pump. I made a steel puck to cover the old sender hole in the tank. Couple pics:

Last night I tore the firewall apart so that I can paint. I've decided to go with a black underhood/floor to match the chassis. Couple pics:

Finally, I built another "drop cloth tent" and started glass beading the floor today in prep for RustBullet and paint (same as chassis). Couple pics (pre blasting):

cfdlighthouse · 03-15-08, 09:29 PM

great work..............man i wish i had your shop.

SKINNER · 03-16-08, 10:56 AM

Thanks for the compliments!

Here are a couple of pics after glass beading the rear portion of the floor. Pretty quick process, this took less than 1 hour. The cream/tan color is the factory panel sealer.

I have found a slight bit of rust in both rear quarters, and a giant bondo hack job on the passenger rear fender lip...I'm going to try to uncover that this afternoon....

calphi27 · 03-16-08, 12:12 PM

I don't know how I missed this thread, but it is sweet! Did you try and spray anything on the inside of your frame for rust protection?

SKINNER · 03-16-08, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by calphi27

I don't know how I missed this thread, but it is sweet! Did you try and spray anything on the inside of your frame for rust protection?

I'm planning on spraying it with ATF, used oil, or something similar after everything is done.

Sarcastro · 03-16-08, 06:05 PM

very cool. what's the dimensions of your shop I am building one soon and yours seems pretty great

SKINNER · 03-16-08, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sarcastro

very cool. what's the dimensions of your shop I am building one soon and yours seems pretty great

Thanks, man! It is 30x36.

calphi27 · 03-16-08, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SKINNER

I'm planning on spraying it with ATF, used oil, or something similar after everything is done.

There is a recipe in here for the stuff that the brits use for their landrovers. I'll see if i can find it.

landbruiser60 · 03-18-08, 01:15 PM

Very nice progress! Your build is looking better and better every time I check this thread. So you are going to put black shell on the entire body? I hope you are because I plan on trying it and I can't wait to see what yours looks like. that's a good idea on the used motor oil on the inside of the frame, I might do that as well. Keep up the good work!

Sarcastro · 03-18-08, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SKINNER

Pictures with the meats fitted up. I know it's only short term, but I wanted to see what she looked like. i still have to finish the rear brakes and get the front hubs installed (neither local NAPA has a 54mm or 2 1/8 socket, WTF?)

what size are the tires?

SKINNER · 03-18-08, 01:24 PM

BFG 33x10.50R15's

Zack1978 · 03-19-08, 05:48 AM

Perhaps I missed it in the thread, but can you elaborate on your sandblasting equip?

Thanks,
Zack

Project60 · 03-19-08, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zack1978

Perhaps I missed it in the thread, but can you elaborate on your sandblasting equip?

Thanks,
Zack

x2. Did you prep the bottom for blasting or did the glass beads remove the undercoating?

SKINNER · 03-19-08, 10:32 AM

I am using a 20 gallon pressure pot blaster from Eastwood, 3.5mm tip, and I think #8 Glass Beads.

I didn't do anything special to prep other than tape any holes that go through to the interior of the cab. I just blasted with the glass until the dirt, paint, and grease buildup was gone. I chose not to remove the factory sealer/undercoating, but the blaster will easily remove it with glass beads if you stay in the same place for more than 2-3 seconds. Of course, if you wanted to remove the factory sealer you could always swap to Garnet or a harder blasting media.

SKINNER · 03-19-08, 05:18 PM

Talk about a real project buzzkill

...I dove into the quarters today and they are a lot worse than I imagined they would be.

The left side has a dent and a tear near the wheel well and rust at the base of the well, and the right side is EVEN WORSE! The right side is completely smoked. Some asshat decided to sculpt an FJ60 out of 3/4" of Bondo along the entire bottom of the quarter. To make things worse, it looks like the reason for the panel is a huge friggin' gouge from the well to the bumper. To make things worse, said asshat did not prime/seal the metal before applying the Bondo, so now there was a dented, rusted quarter under 3/4" of Bondo.

Left:

Right:

P.S. just in case the previous owner that applied the Bondo to this LandCruiser is a Mud member;

pint · 03-19-08, 05:41 PM

WOW!!! This thing is going to be sweet. Great work!

Zack1978 · 03-19-08, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SKINNER

Talk about a real project buzzkill

...I dove into the quarters today and they are a lot worse than I imagined they would be.

The left side has a dent and a tear near the wheel well and rust at the base of the well, and the right side is EVEN WORSE! The right side is completely smoked. Some asshat decided to sculpt an FJ60 out of 3/4" of Bondo along the entire bottom of the quarter. To make things worse, it looks like the reason for the panel is a huge friggin' gouge from the well to the bumper. To make things worse, said asshat did not prime/seal the metal before applying the Bondo, so now there was a dented, rusted quarter under 3/4" of Bondo.

Left:

Right:

P.S. just in case the previous owner that applied the Bondo to this LandCruiser is a Mud member;

Is the body only supported on the lift by the quater panel? If so, is that safe?

Zack

SKINNER · 03-19-08, 07:30 PM

Yeah, it's the quarter panel at the rear, but it's on the pinch weld (Where the floor, side member, and outer skins come together). I've also got 2 screw jacks underneath it. Should be no problem.

Pacer · 03-20-08, 06:27 AM

Looks lie those quarters a candidates to be bobed.

Really nice work overall, you are making this look easy.

5280Hawk · 03-20-08, 07:05 AM

You can find a rust free set of rear quarters. Some guys Weld them back in all the way from roof to floor.

I had the guy that did mine cut out the bad areas and weld in patches cut from 2 quarters I bought at a Junk Yard.

Project60 · 03-20-08, 07:46 AM

Sorry to see the quarter panels...

I have not ordered from them, but I did find quarter panel patches from these guys: Toyota Land Cruiser Rust Repair Panels

SKINNER · 03-20-08, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pacer

Looks lie those quarters a candidates to be bobed.

Really nice work overall, you are making this look easy.

LOL, don't think I haven't thought about it....but unless I bobbed it to the rear door, I'd still have the rust issues to deal with.

SKINNER · 03-20-08, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5280Hawk

You can find a rust free set of rear quarters. Some guys Weld them back in all the way from roof to floor.

I had the guy that did mine cut out the bad areas and weld in patches cut from 2 quarters I bought at a Junk Yard.

Yeah, that's my current plan.

I'm hoping to find a clean quarter and patch mine from the door opening back and the window down. I'll drill the spot welds out at the tail lamp/hatch area, pinch weld, and door opening, and make my cuts at the C/D pillars on either side of the rear window. This would minimize the length of my welds and should allow me to patch it with minimal distortion/body work. Ideally, I would like to do this on both sides.

So, if anyone knows of a person parting out a semi-clean FJ60 body, PLEASE let me know!

worshhim · 03-20-08, 09:49 AM

Nice garage! Nice Rig, its gonna look awesome when you get it all sewn up. Nice work!