Power Steering Gear Box Removal and Installation (1 Viewer)

[hank14]

Thought I'd post up some info on removal and installation of the PS gear box. I'm in the middle of it- for the second time, and already am on the phone with cruiserdan to replace parts that I screwed up.

I'll get some pics up later, but the first time I tried this, I couldn't get the relay rod off of the Pitman arm with a "pickle fork," so I ordered one of those handy, compact tie rod end removal tools.

Now that I have it, the relay rod popped right off and I replaced my gear box with a temporary used one from the parting out section here (from an 88 FJ62). When I was installing it, I realized my handy tie rod puler was off centered and bent the threaded end of the tie rod, collapsing one side where a hole for the cotter pin is!

This thing is the only significant leak on my cruiser, and it is about to eat my lunch.

 

[johnbill]

I am in the same spot with my '86 60...literally dented the jaws of my pickle fork and peened out the back end trying to get ANYTHING AT ALL to budge. I've tried every penetrating oil I have, cleaned it all off and tried a blowtorch, and still no luck. A transmission-style gear puller has been suggested, but I'm worried about exactly what happened to you. Any thoughts on how to avoid the destruction?

 

[Dazza]

i believe there is a specialty tool that can be rented at many auto parts stores that is designed to remove these. In the past I have done many things and on a number of vehicles.

SOmetimes a good whack with a mini sledge does the trick.

Once I used a 3' bar from above and a 5# sledge full swing forever... wasn't a cruiser, don't worry was an S-10

 

[hank14]

Well, as luck would have it, the used gear box I bought had a pittman arm attached and they sent it to me with the ball and thread part of the relay rod still attached, so I was able to take apart my existing relay rod to get the bent- threaded relay rod out and install the one that came with the used box.

I got it all back together and it is driveable. My gear box is packaged and ready to go to West Texas Off Road for a rebuild.

As far as avoiding the destruction- I still think the tool I have is the way to go. I bought it because others here have suggested it for tie rods and steering stabilizers. I suppose I got in as hurry and did not make sure the puller was centered on the relay rod. Like most wrenching, especially on these classic vehicles, GO SLOW!

Tip- the FSM has 2 different set of instructions for PS gear box rebuild- one towards the front and one towards the back of the chapter on steering. They are not titled to explain the difference, but the one in the front of the chapter does not correlate with my PS gear box- it shows gear oil in the box and a 6th bolt in the top of it that you remove to check and top off the gear oil.

Neither one of the gear boxes I have had the 6th bolt or "fill hole," so either this is for 85 and earlier models or a non USA version. I'll post the pages later. Does anyone know?

 

[ellington12]

I am in the same spot with my '86 60...literally dented the jaws of my pickle fork and peened out the back end trying to get ANYTHING AT ALL to budge. I've tried every penetrating oil I have, cleaned it all off and tried a blowtorch, and still no luck. A transmission-style gear puller has been suggested, but I'm worried about exactly what happened to you. Any thoughts on how to avoid the destruction?

I think I know what tool Hank14 was using and that is by far the best way to go. The secret to not mashing up the threads is to consider the nut to be sacrificial. Keep the nut on the tie-rod end but back it off until it is flush with the end of the threads; this also serves as a sort of safety thing too for when the joint finally separates, the nut will prevent things from flying around.

a front end tool set like this:

K-D Tools 41690 Front End Service Kit Order#KD 41690 www.TheToolWarehouse.Net

is a great thing to have in your toolbox...

 

[hank14]

Here's some pictures.

Here's my leaky PS gear box. Note: I changed out the hoses already and I think the previous owner had the PS pump seals replaced.

1. Block rear wheels, set parking brake, use sturdy jack stands to lift front of vehicle.
2. Remove DS front wheel.
3. Remove steering shaft cover- 2 12 mm bolts on outside of frame, and it hinges on the inside.
4. Mark steering shaft and PS gears. I used yellow marking paint pen from NAPA.
5. Remove steering shaft- 1- 12 mm bolt.

6. Loosen and remove high and low pressure PS hoses- I think the fittings were 16 and 17 mm. Most of the PS fluid will run out from the pump. It's a good idea to be prepared.

7. Remove the Relay rod. Here's what I used.

I was so proud of myself after having tried the pickle fork trick and damaging the rubber relay rod boot.

Here's what happened:

Squished, just like grape!

In retrospect, I think leaving the nut flush with the top of the threads would have prevented this, as ellington suggested.

8. Loosen 4 nuts holding gear box to frame- may need to secure the bilts on the other side of the frame, 17 mm.

For the time being, I'm driving with the used unit. Seems to be working well. Hopefully I'll have mine back in 7-10 days and will post more pics and details then.

 

[hank14]

Update- got the gear box off to West Texas Off Road.

Right now I do not have one leak under my cruiser. That's a first.

Let me reiterate- do not screw up the relay rod- that part (the one on SOR's site that doesn't have a part number)...

...is not available without buying the DS relay rod end and tube, which from cruiserdan is about $80 plus the ride......Another expensive mistake I hope I never make again as a shade tree mechanic.

 

[hank14]

In the Chassis and Body Factory Service Manual #36262E, on page SR-3, it shows checking the oil level. It talks about replinishing the gear oil on SR-30. Unfortunately, I do not think the 86-90 gear boxes have the ability to check this. If that is incorrect, I will let everyone know when I talk to Matt at West Texas Off Road.

Also, there are 2 different areas that explain steering gear housing removal and rebuild:

pages SR-22 through SR-30 ( I think this is for the earlier FJ60's)

and

pages SR-59 through SR-71 (newer models).

Maybe they do this because the manual is for the 84FJ60 and the design changed? Whatever the reason, it's the one thing that drives me crazy about the FSM's- they are not very easy to sift through and find exactly what you are looking for.

 

[Bookseeb]

I hate learning the hard way.

 

[cruiserbrett]

maybe there is a non power steering gearbox available for the Fj60? outside the US perhaps?

 

[Elbert]

Here's some pictures.

Here's my leaky PS gear box. Note: I changed out the hoses already and I think the previous owner had the PS pump seals replaced.

1. Block rear wheels, set parking brake, use sturdy jack stands to lift front of vehicle.
2. Remove DS front wheel.
3. Remove steering shaft cover- 2 12 mm bolts on outside of frame, and it hinges on the inside.
4. Mark steering shaft and PS gears. I used yellow marking paint pen from NAPA.
5. Remove steering shaft- 1- 12 mm bolt.

6. Loosen and remove high and low pressure PS hoses- I think the fittings were 16 and 17 mm. Most of the PS fluid will run out from the pump. It's a good idea to be prepared.

7. Remove the Relay rod. Here's what I used.

I was so proud of myself after having tried the pickle fork trick and damaging the rubber relay rod boot.

Here's what happened:

Squished, just like grape!

In retrospect, I think leaving the nut flush with the top of the threads would have prevented this, as ellington suggested.

8. Loosen 4 nuts holding gear box to frame- may need to secure the bilts on the other side of the frame, 17 mm.

For the time being, I'm driving with the used unit. Seems to be working well. Hopefully I'll have mine back in 7-10 days and will post more pics and details then.

I believe you are using the wrong tool there. They do make a pitman arm puller. I think you are right too, though a nut on the top of that threaded section might have saved you. I had to take my steering gear off the other day. You can remove the other end from the gear and not have to screw with that end. Of course if you have to replace the pitman arm then you still have to take the front part loose too.

A pickle fork will sometimes work, but you have to use the right size one. Its worth getting the right tool on the steering crap so you don't end up causing more problems.

 

[code 621]

How much does this rebuild cost @ WTOR? Ive got my ''84 BJ60 all torn apart (knuckle rebuild , diff rebuild, And possible clutch) and maybe I should do this while its out of comission.

 

[hank14]

I believe you are using the wrong tool there. They do make a pitman arm puller. I think you are right too, though a nut on the top of that threaded section might have saved you. I had to take my steering gear off the other day. You can remove the other end from the gear and not have to screw with that end. Of course if you have to replace the pitman arm then you still have to take the front part loose too.

A pickle fork will sometimes work, but you have to use the right size one. Its worth getting the right tool on the steering crap so you don't end up causing more problems.

I got this tool because other discussions showed it was the right one for the steering stabilizer, with a similar end on it.

I removed the Pittman arm because the FSM said so! In retrospect, I do not think it was necessary (assuming a Pittman arm puller would work with the box on the truck.

 

[hank14]

How much does this rebuild cost @ WTOR? Ive got my ''84 BJ60 all torn apart (knuckle rebuild , diff rebuild, And possible clutch) and maybe I should do this while its out of comission.

About $140.00 plus return shipping, depending on the type of box.

redneck ram hydraulic steering assist

Several others here have used and recommended them.

Given a new box is $2500 from Toyota, and a rebuilt one is $500 from cruiserparts.net or $950+ from SOR.com, I think it's a pretty good deal.

Edit: Mark. W will also rebuild the boxes for $375 plus a $125 core charge. Probably the best, closest to OEM from the factory out there, I would imagine.

Catalogue Page 16

 

[bigbertha]

great thread

This is a great thread. I'm amazed that your steering box is so clean! I don't think I have ever seen the actual steering boxes on any of my NE rigs. Too much bar and chain oil rust proof mixture custom blended with road crud to see anything. It's nice to see what a clean one looks like. Luckily I have not had any leaks from mine. Just some slop in the 62. I'm dreading the day I will have to bust those bolts.

 

[beaufort-fj60]

maybe there is a non power steering gearbox available for the Fj60? outside the US perhaps?

anyone know about this?.. What would be the difference between the two? I disconnected my PS pump a few years back. It drives normal to me, a little stiff in the parking lots.

 

[Mace]

you cannot have a oil fill port in a ps box.

There was a manual box offered..

 

[forestdan7]

you cannot have a oil fill port in a ps box.

There was a manual box offered..

What he said. I read about this in another post a while back.

Without power steering, the gear box runs gear oil, and you check it with the filler plug. With power steering, ATF is your lubricant, and there's no checking it except at the reservoir.

 

[Elbert]

I got this tool because other discussions showed it was the right one for the steering stabilizer, with a similar end on it.

I removed the Pittman arm because the FSM said so! In retrospect, I do not think it was necessary (assuming a Pittman arm puller would work with the box on the truck.

I just finished swapping my gear last weekend. If you get the pitman arm puller that fits the cruiser, you can do the following. Remove large nut at bottom of pitman arm on the gear end. Use puller to loosen the arm (its tough for the first few rounds). The Arm will drop down and you will have enough play in the steering linkage to clear the shaft on the gear. You may have to loosen the nut on the linkage side of the pitman arm. I can assure it works....since I just did it. The reason I know is that I was going to try just what you did to start with and then I said "what the hell" let me see if I can get away with what I describe above. I have a thread about a V-8 swap...I did not go into details about the gear swap but the above basically tells the story. Your steering gear is very clean!

 

[hank14]

What he said. I read about this in another post a while back.

Without power steering, the gear box runs gear oil, and you check it with the filler plug. With power steering, ATF is your lubricant, and there's no checking it except at the reservoir.

This makes total sense. I was not thinking in terms of no power steering. I'm fortunately young enough that I've never had a vehicle without it.

Anyways...I got the PS gear box back from West Texas Off Road today. Here it is nestled in it's comfy intrastate bed: