5.7 Vortec V-8 Swap / 86 FJ60

Elbert · 11-03-07, 02:51 PM

Ok,

I 've rounded up most if not all the mechanical parts for my V-8 engine swap. I have Mark's adaper kit, toyota 5 speed, GM flywheel, pressure plate and clutch, 5.7 engine assembly out of a 98 youkon.

A friend and I plan to start on this in a couple of weeks once we get some kind of scheule agreed to. Stock I-6 with 4 speed will be removed shortly.

I'll post some pics , right now its just a collection of part, plus the land cruiser.

I still lack the exhaust manifolds, the wiring harness, the ECM programming, fuel pump and routing.

A couple of questions for those who been down this road:

(1) I plan on running a OME heavy / heavy lift at some point, do I need to install this prior to the engine swap. Will it be eaiser to to the swap with the truck in the stock configuration, and is there any issue with oil pan clearance on the sotck suspension, such that I need to bit the bullet and do the lift kit first?

(2) people with V-8 engine and stock radiator... what mods if any have you had to make for engine cooling purposes? I plan on running a stock type 4 core "brass" radiator, with 16" spal electric fan and custiom radiator shroud. Manily because I already have the fan and controller, and of course the radiator. Anyone run this setup before? I see various people run ford conteur dual fans, and a lincoln Mark 8 fan. I would be ok with the stock GM radiaotor fan and fan clutch but I think I may have clearance issues?

(3) is the process to remove the transfer case from the transmission reasonably simple. I have the shop manauals but I've not looked at that part yet.

(4) most of you guys mount your ECM under the hood like the OEM setup from GM or do somthing else? I'm leaning towards a Painless stand alone wiring harned, and mounting the ECM on the dirvers side fender well.

(5) what makes good sense on running a tach. Have one of the shop reconfigure a tach, or I belive one of the autometer tachs will mount in the stock dash fairly easy?

(6) Anyone done this swap alos included a setup for the OEM engine oil cooler or an aftermarket cooler...or have you just blocked the cooler hoses at the oil filter adapter?

Anything to look out for ?

I'll try to post up some pics and comments as we get started.

Mendocino · 11-03-07, 03:22 PM

You might want to put your ECM in the glove box. That's where mine is and its out of the way. I have a Haltech E6GM and I can also plug my laptop into it and tune while I drive which is convienant. I'd post a picture but my with is out driving the Cruiser with the new fuel injection map.

Mendocino · 11-03-07, 04:02 PM

Here is a picture of the EMS in the glove box.

meatloaf · 11-03-07, 04:28 PM

Congratulations Elbert!

I guess the Vortec bug has hit a lot of us...Good luck & keep us posted...

I might have some of the parts you need. I was going to use for an 88 tbi though/700r4. Here's what I have...

Ramhorns, New DCC Fan controller, New Airtex 8093, New FIS harness/Eprom (not sure if it will work with yours), etc and a few other parts.

ML

Elbert · 11-03-07, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meatloaf

Congratulations Elbert!

I guess the Vortec bug has hit a lot of us...Good luck & keep us posted...

I might have some of the parts you need. I was going to use for an 88 tbi though/700r4. Here's what I have...

Ramhorns, New DCC Fan controller, New Airtex 8093, New FIS harness/Eprom (not sure if it will work with yours), etc and a few other parts.

ML

email a picture showing both manifolds... I expect I could use those. Wiring harnes from a TBI is different than a CPI (early vortec 5.7. elbertclarke@bellsouth.net.

I've wanted to do mine for a while. I started looking for a TBI engine but came across the vortec before anything else.

Elbert · 11-03-07, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mendocino

You might want to put your ECM in the glove box. That's where mine is and its out of the way. I have a Haltech E6GM and I can also plug my laptop into it and tune while I drive which is convienant. I'd post a picture but my with is out driving the Cruiser with the new fuel injection map.

You're using an aftermarket ECM right? I don't think the wiring harness from painless supports the ECM mount in the vechicle interior. GM OEM setup for that year vehhicle is that the ECM is mounted under the hood. The ECM has a kind o hardned exterior.

Tinker · 11-04-07, 08:13 AM

Mounted the factory ECM for my '98 5.7 above the pedals. Downey's swap manual is worth the $.

Ramshorn headers will give you the best clearance unless you like tightening bults & replacing gaskets for shorty block-hugger tube headers (I changed mine for the ramshorns). Bought mine from an online parts place: they turned out to be Chinese but matched up exactly & are good copies (had an original Corvette one to compare to). I plugged the holes where a tube went through for a wire. Only problem: they retain a lot of heat. I'm contemplating an aluminum heat shield for the steering box & knuckle. And I'll never again try to reach around it until it's cold (looks like it'll take another week or two for the burn to heal on my wrist).

philos1 · 11-04-07, 09:51 PM

1) IMOP, lift can go before or after, shouldn't make a difference.

2) Use the stock radiator with a stock GM fan/clutch assembly, I trimmed the fan to work with my home-made shroud- no cooling issues at all...

3) pull it out as one assembly, then unbolt, pretty easy.

4) Mount it in the bay if you have a stock style harness, I'd skip the painless one and go with Howell (what I used) or F.I.S like Randy uses. Randy has them made longer so he can mount the ECM inside the cab- maybe shoot him a PM?

5) Tach was sent out and re-calibrated (North Hollywood Speedometer, works great and looks great but I wont be going back) for the V8, and also painted with new numbers up to 8K RPMs, Redline also does it and they're in Simi Valley IIRC.

6) I mounted an aftermarket oil cooler to the top of my forward-most skid plate, under the fan. Works just fine.

The aforementioned Chinese-built rams-horns work fine for me as well, IIRC I got them for $50 each from AA1 auto or something like that. No complaints.

I have pretty much the same setup as you, so...

HTH

rover67 · 11-06-07, 11:29 AM

i recalibrated my own (see my thread) and it worked fine. But.. i ended up doing th eautometer tach. it looks like stock and goes to 6k, which is nice.

i mounted my ecu in the engine compartment.

the transfer case is super easy to take off and rebuild.

do the lift after. it'll "encourage " yo uto have plenty of clearance with the engine and axle.

i honestly thing the fan yo uhave and the stock rad will work fine. i just got done towing a 4k # trailer cross country with my rig and it never overheated. I was cruising at 80mph up hills with it floored in 5th at some points, and in 3rd and 4th wound out a lot too.

glad to hear you are getting started, and glad you got up to memphis to see my truck... i'm in colorado now

c ya,
marco

Elbert · 11-06-07, 06:55 PM

I've got all the parts over at my friends shop where we are going to do the work. I'll bring the camera along next time I'm over there. I hope to get started with pulling the engine in a week or two. Anyone know where to get one of the engine hoist load levelers? A good one! Not a piece of garbage.. I did look through the snap-on catalog and the mac, don't recall seeing one. Don't think craftsman makes one...any good brands for those who have one?

I think my 2F is missing the front engine lift bracket....what the deal with that... I see one on the rear of the engine....did these things come with two? or, for some reason do people remove these or do shops had a nice habit of keeping these things? I'm guessing it was on the truck new... I"m the 3rd owner.

iaintscared1969 · 11-06-07, 07:00 PM

I don't use a leveler. They suck!! Unless it is the old ratchet and chain style. Good luck getting one of those. I pull them by myself with the aid of a tranny jack on the tail end. It will come out enough for you to set it on the frame and hook a tail shaft chain on it then out she comes. And yes they do like to leave those off.

Elbert · 11-06-07, 07:04 PM

Marco,

Yeah...good luck out "west", apprecaite your comments and letting us check out your LC. I'm hopping I can get this thing all running by 08. I should, depending on my help and work schedule.

We're going to run the SPAL fan with a custom shroud and try to position the engine where we can go back to the GM radiator fan if we have to. I belive you had the dual electric contour fan. I know SPAL makes a small dual fan setup too. But since I own the large fan already thats the plan for now... May change later. I was wondering if you could get the 350 centered in order to run the GM radiator fan. I know philos1 did that, not sure on the exact details as I write this msg, his truck is the same setup as mine will be in regard to engine and trans... I'm sure we'll be doing some similar things as far as fuel pump, exhaust...etc.

Elbert

iaintscared1969 · 11-06-07, 07:07 PM

Why run the GM rad? Send it to the radiator shop to get the ports swapped and all will be as OEM. I have it done for around 75.00 pressure tested and dipped. Works great!

Elbert · 11-06-07, 07:09 PM

I've seen pics of the levlers....some do look like junk. Looked like you could have an eaiser time with the engine though. I'll have a friend helping so its not going to be that bad either way I go. I plan to pull the entire engien+trans+t-case together and go back in the same way.

iaintscared1969 · 11-06-07, 07:12 PM

That's the only way to do it. Out as one in as one. That way you only have to set the mounts and done. Also air your fronts down it helps the engine clear the frame a little faster. But it will go smooth and easy once you get after it.

Elbert · 11-06-07, 07:14 PM

I do plan to run the toyota radiator.... I was referring to running the GM radiator clutch fan setup, like philos1 did. I do like the performance of those clutch fans GM makes.

iaintscared1969 · 11-06-07, 07:20 PM

I am running Scott's on the Chevy fan seems to do OK but I like the feeling of the ECU controlled fan for when the A/C is on and the stop and go when there isn't any air moving. Plus I don't need a shroud. Yep overkill but I know the GM clutch fans would handle it.

workingdog · 11-06-07, 07:29 PM

Iisscared,

Does the GM radiator fit in the FJ60 mounts?

Peter

iaintscared1969 · 11-06-07, 07:31 PM

I haven't used the GM rad in an install yet. I belive Philo's had used it in his install.

philos1 · 11-06-07, 11:44 PM

Nope, used the stock Toyota one, working great so far... I DID use the GM fan clutch assembly though with a "custom" shroud by me .

Elbert · 11-20-07, 06:41 PM

First Real update. I'll have to get some pics, forgot camera.
Had the engine on a dolly, and previously I had installed new water pump, idler and belt tensioner, rebuilt alternator and new belt. Also new rear main, new oil pan gasket, new upper and lower intake gaskets, new valve cover gaskets.

Sunday: We installed rams horn manifolds, 1/2 of the new motor mounts (engine side), installed new flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate, installed piolot bearing and the mark's adapter bellhousing adapter.
Called it a day since we need some parts off the transmission yet to be removed from the 60.

Anyone have any ideas on using the current engine oil dipstick and the new exhaust manifolds (pictures would help here). I can't get new pics until week after thanksgiving. Anyway I think the stock oil dipstick will work if we do some bending on it. Would like to have a clean looking bracket that holds it to the RH side of the engine.

Those with this engine (what have you done with the heater hose routing... 98 Vortec 5.7. The I-6 engine has the heater control valve on the firewall (old school manual type), new engine has vaccum operated heater control valve on the heater hoses that run off the front of the engine and work back towards the heater core. (I'll look over some of the old threads to see if I can tell).

Wonder if one of the FJ62 long range fuel tanks would work along with a FJ62 in tank fuel pump to feed the vortec... Man-a-fre told me by email they were working on sometthing similar.

workingdog · 11-28-07, 06:29 PM

I assume that the FJ62 fuel pump was relatively low pressure. What pressure does the 5.7 require? Can any intank fuel pump be mounted in the FJ62 tank?

Peter

philos1 · 11-28-07, 08:53 PM

Dipstick- I got one from PAW, and made it work with one I had laying around (PAW tube, old one for the stick part)

Fuel pump, I used the airtex "E-2000", it's a universal type (TLC uses it, so...), IIRC, the 62 pump is too low of a pressure, Vortec needs like 65psi????

Heater hoses- see if you can figure it out from my swap thread pics, if not I can take some CU pics for ya- I remember buying a handful of hose adapters and bends but not really needing too many.

now get us some photos!!!!

Elbert · 11-29-07, 08:36 PM

ok, I got to visit the doctor tomorrow and do some running around. I drop by my freinds shop to take some pics either tomorrow afternoon or Sat. We are in a hold position right now, because my friend need to finish two smaller car projects he has going before we jump back on mine. I have all the major parts at this point so, not wiating on any of the big items. I'm sure there will be some stuff here and there. I want to try to round up the bracket the holds the ECM to the fender well and also a GM OEM air filter housing. I expect I'll be junkyard surfing for that stuff. I'll put the camera in the truck this time

Elbert · 12-01-07, 06:26 PM

Philos1,

Do you recall the fitting adapters you used to mate with your two fuel hoses at the end of the intake, near the firewall. THe ones that feed the fuel injection. Part numbers would be great!

Elbert · 12-01-07, 06:40 PM

Pics, showing engine prep so far and bellhousing adapter. If anyone needs to see the clutch & flywheel let me know and I'll take the bellhousing off and take a few pics. Did not have camera with me when intially installed. I think we are on schedule to start the removal of the I-6 this next Friday, if either of "us" don't have to work our "day" jobs.

Elbert · 12-01-07, 06:42 PM

4th pic...different view

Elbert · 12-01-07, 07:04 PM

pic of stock engine setup.

and pic of weight of the 60 with I-6 and my fat @$$ in the drivers seat...
will post another to see what the overall avg. weight difference is once done.

philos1 · 12-02-07, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elbert

Philos1,

Do you recall the fitting adapters you used to mate with your two fuel hoses at the end of the intake, near the firewall. THe ones that feed the fuel injection. Part numbers would be great!

Shit, I'll have some digging to get a part # for it, but I remember it was the fuel line assembly for 96-99 5.7 C-1500 p/u. I still haven't organized all of my receipts from the swap

I used the front half of it, then cut and flared the ends where it goes to the frame-rail so I could use it with rubber line to the pump. IIRC, I also had to bend it around a little bit to fit around the H-55 and Toyota stuff- pretty easy as far as I remember it.

I'll dig around tomorrow for the part #, and I'll post it if I find it.

cheers.

Tinker · 12-02-07, 09:34 AM

L -

I have a '98 5.7 Vortec/4L60E in my '84. I'll post up pix of the dipstick & the heater hoses tomorrow (only have an aircard connection @ home). Also, I'll snap the AC electrical diagram for you.

Lots of folks are running the stock radiator, but you'll have a time making a shround to adapt the GM mechanical fan to it (probably took me 3 man-days to make one out of fiberglass for the 460 in my '56 F100). I've got a single electric one for the Vortec run by a Flex-A-Lite solid state controller, but it's not enough for slow going in the mountains (running 2 add-on tranny coolers in addition to the AC condenser: 1 for the PS & 1 for the 4L60E in addition to the tranny section of a Ron Davis Racing aluminum radiator). The later (GenIII?) motors have electric fans so that's what Aint is talking about: no dice on the 5.7. I'm going to a Contour dual fan & just adding another Flex-A-Lite solid controller (cheapest way to go at this point & kinda cool 'cause I can set the start temps independently).

Something you probably haven't thought of yet: stock plug wires might not fit over the ramshorns which really hold the heat. I went to Taylor 10mm ones to fit the crab cap & withstand the heat (you'll have to buy a special $58 crimper, too unless you want to borrow mine for the price of the 2-way ride).

You're gonna love it!