[FJer60]

Hello,
My name is Jeremy and I have recently gotten my first car (ever) back! It's a 1983 FJ60, that was my first car (learned to drive in it). It was originally purchased in Maryland, and when I came out to Southern CA, it came with me. After I finished college, it was shipped out to Hawaii for my father to use. It then went to Reno, with dad, then to San Diego, again, with dad. When I was in SD for Thanksgiving, I drove it up to my current home, in San Jose, CA. Before I drove it up, I had a major tune-up done by the Truck Shop, in SD, per this forum's recommendations. Great work, but a little pricey. This is why I'm tryign to start to work on it myself.

Now, the problem. I've searched for a while, and found valuable information, but my problem still exists. The e-brake handle in the cab feels very loose (no movement of the cable). My first thoughts were that the rear drum bellcranks are frozen, so I've tried pulling the drums to no avail. I've tried adjusting (backing off, turning star wheel) the shoes, via the horizontal slot on the back of the rear drum, but I can't seem to turn the star wheel or push/find the lever.

How do I get the drums off of the rear wheels, so I can remove the bellcranks and "unfreeze" them? Please note that I have just started to attempt to work on the FJ60 (no work done on it as of yet, but successfully have worked on my other car, a 2000 volvo s40). I don't plan on wheeling her, just "normal" driving on freeways, and in the mountains of Tahoe.

By the way, thank you to all members of this forum - you all have provided an invaluable source of information. Glad to be part of the Landcruiser culture, and hoping to learn much more from you all.

[Pathfinder]

remove the screw that holds the drum on then beat the junk out of the drum with a hammer. I mean really let it have it! Then once the shoes have been removed then disconnet the cable pully for the ebrake both inside the drum in out side. Then I beat the parking brake lever back and forth with a hammer till it moved from side to side without any resistance. Then I removed lever and lubricated with high temp grease and then packed the rubber boot as well with grease. Put it all back together and repeat on the other side.

All and all it probally took me about 1hr per side.

Do one side and then keep the other side in tact should you forget how it all goes together.

A word of advice since you are going to have it all apart go ahead and replace the shoes and rear brake cylinders and flush the brake fluid. They are probally leaking and only cose about 12 per side from autozone.

Enjoy My rear brakes were the same way and now it will stop the car from rolling on the steepest of hills.

Good luck

[RredFJ40]

Pull the pin that attaches the cable to the bell crank, then hammer the bellcrank down, then try to get the drum off. Continue as pathfinder said.

[Heartworm]

There are two threaded holes in the drum. Get bolts that will fit in these threads and put them in. The bolts will push on the axle flange and help you get the drums off. Keep trying to de-adjust the brake shoes also. It is a two handed, two screwdriver cluster F**k but once you get the hang of it, you can do it. The direction of the star wheel is opposite on each side. If you get it going one way and it gets tigher, go the other way. Do the opposite on the other side.

[roscoFJ73]

Hi Jeremy.Did you adjust the handbrake lever ,its under the fake leather thing that covers the bolts etc.
Loosen the balck plastic lock nut and then use a 10mm spanner to adjust the metal nut. You should have about 6 clicks before the handbrake is fully engaged.

As the others said ,getting those adjusters to turn takes practice.
To get the drums off I belt them around the edges with a rubber mallet and spray lots of solvent in there to loosen things.(solvent is best done a day or 2 before)

Adjust the brakes 1st and then the handbrake lever..

You will get good value from a factory service manual. They usually pay for themselves very quickly