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03-20-07, 04:07 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Forum Regular
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Texas
Posts: 153
| Burning out Bushings I've read several places on this forum that its easiest to remove the stock rubber bushings by burning them out with a torch. I think one I read said to get the metal glowing red.
I'm not a professional metal worker, but putting a gas torch to the metal hangers on the frame makes me wonder if that would cause the steel to loose its temper. Anybody know?
Planning on doing this soon, so just wanted to ask before I do it. |
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03-20-07, 04:14 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Site Addict
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 2,209
| I think its more about burning the bushing out that heating the metal, i think the metal getting hot is a side effect.
__________________ 1988 FJ 62- SUA, 1" body, 34" trxus mudders, 2.5" exhaust, 27spl Longs/Pig Inners, 4.88s, torsen LSD/lockright, 4runner brakes, other random stuff...
1986 pickup- 2wd, 22r, 4 speed, DD |
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03-20-07, 04:16 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | 250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 418
| I just did my first leaf spring install. I too was worried about the spring pins and bushings. The shackle pins came right out, no heat applied.
The spring pins were seized to the bushings. I used a propane torch to burn the bushings. It probably took alot longer than a good torch, but it worked fine.
I applied heat for a little bit, then went to town with the 8lb sledge. It would move very little at a time. Then repeat until the pin comes out enough to get a pry bar in there and work it out. I used a pickle fork for most of it and it worked well. I spent probably 4hrs on all the spring pins and 4mins on all the shackle pins.
But the propane was enough to get them out.
__________________ 02/83 FJ60 |
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03-20-07, 04:19 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Pumpkinpete
Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Bad Homburg / Germany
Posts: 427
| I drilled holes in the rubber and soaked it with WD40, waited some minutes and got them out with ease and pliers. |
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03-20-07, 04:25 PM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Forum Regular
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Texas
Posts: 153
| Thanks for the help. I guess my worry was in weakening the steel by getting it too hot. Only needs to be about 400 degrees to temper steel. |
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03-20-07, 04:27 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Forum Lifer
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 10,044
| hold it close to the rubber not far back.it just concentrates the heat on the boot. |
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03-20-07, 05:11 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | what he said
Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 13,492
| The "heat treat" on mild steel is no big deal..
Heat it up and let er rip..
__________________ I am kinda gay.......
I've set the bar, don't trip over it....
"Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game." |
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03-20-07, 11:01 PM
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#8 (permalink)
| | 250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: bay area
Posts: 391
| be careful if you have super eco-friendly neighbors. the burning rubber has a rather "fragant" smell...
__________________ ____________________________
1986 FJ60. Stock except FJ62 mirrors and Bilsteins. My wife's to drive and mine to work on.
1968 Mercedes-Benz
1973 Mercedes-Benz (thirstier than the 60)
Too many cars yet lusting for a FJ55. |
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03-21-07, 09:11 AM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Springfield, Mo
Posts: 2,207
| Put the heat to the bushing and not on the flat part of the metal. The bushing will start burning long before you get the metal red hot. It will take a lot more heat than you will use to damage the metal
__________________ Thad Brown/ Rogersville Mo TLCA #13816 84 FJ 60 Free bumper from GCC and Locker from LSCR/ 93 FJ80 Locked and loaded 07 FJ/ wife's 08 Tundra Rocket ship Green Country Cruisers Ozark Mountain Cruisers
"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result." |
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03-21-07, 03:07 PM
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#10 (permalink)
| | 250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 358
| Screw the neighbors! Let 'er burn! (just make sure the fire doesn't spread |
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03-21-07, 03:15 PM
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#11 (permalink)
| | Local Diesel Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ft. Worthless, TEXAS!
Posts: 3,853
| i soaked mine with "PB" (<--- some good shit for everything right there) got my propane torch and lit the bastard on fire.
I focused most of the heat on the spring its self since i wasnt gonna use it again and also that way it would hopefully melt or help beak down the bushing inside and let the pin loose. The first corner took me forever and a half the other 3 i had out in like 10min flat like it was nothing at all.
__________________ [O] =TOYOTA=[O] = Mo Betta!
**84 FJ60 "Fiona", Exhaust, SOA , 38.5's, Front Aussie, Rear Detroit, 4.56's, 2 Lo, Marlin Tack, and Ram Assist. ROTW, 2F-E Swap**
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I of course guarantee all of my work to be a professional installation / service. |
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03-21-07, 03:30 PM
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#12 (permalink)
| | Forum Regular
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Texas
Posts: 153
| Thanks for the info. |
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03-21-07, 04:00 PM
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#13 (permalink)
| | Forum Lifer
Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: OC, CA
Posts: 6,861
| Just don't heat the spring itself. It is the only metal in the area that is actually tempered. Everything else is mild steel and has too low of a carbon content to harden effectively by heat treatment. |
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