[FJKai]

What have people been using to "re-seal" their 60 rain gutters? Had window seal replaced and it turns out that the passenger side gutter is leaking down to the floor board. What's the choice way to re-seal these suckers? Thanks

[Zack1978]

I have not done the repair yet, however I have been told the best thing to use is body seam sealer. I think 3M makes it in caulking tubes for ease of use.


Zack

[Dynosoar]

3m all around body caulk is very high quality. Be sure to scape out ALL of the old caulk first. and seal away.


Dynosoar

[Spook50]

Hopefully this summer I'll have enough time at home to try something that an old muscle car enthusiast told me has worked for him.

The way it was explained to me was to get a small wire wheel (dremel-sized) and get all the old caulk and paint out of the gutter as well as you possibly can. Then chock the front tires and jack up the rear end so as to create a back-to-front downward slope. Mask off everything under the bottom of the gutter (where it ends at the bottom of the A pillar) to prevent any damage to your paint from drippage. Starting at the back, slowly pour liquid gas tank sealant down the gutter, letting it flow the entire length of the gutter. He said to do this several times so that it builds up a fairly thick seal. I guess the reasoning behind using gas tank sealer is that since it's made for fuel, it'll stand up to solvents used for painting and easily stand up to washing and the weather. Another reason he told me is that it's made to be flexible to stand up to the tanks getting torqued by high performance cars when the driver romps on the skinny pedal, and he figures it'd hold up great to the bit of body flexing our rigs would see when off road. Now he says he's never done that on a larger 4x4 before, just on old cars; but he says it's always worked like a champ for him, so I'm willing to give it a shot.

This would definately be easier to do with all the chrome removed, as mine is.

[timsteiny]

If you don't want to paint the product that you apply (3M seam sealer should be painted) you can use another 3M product that is stand-alone durable without being painted over...3M 5200 marine sealant. It also comes in a caulk tube and comes in white and black. I've heard that it comes in grey also, but haven't been able to find it. A couple of words of caution...don't get it on you or anything that you don't want it to be on forever, it's good and nasty. I put in in my 62 gutters over 4 yrs. ago with no problems. Make sure you tape off where you don't want it and once you use the tube, use it where you need it and toss the tube because it won't keep no matter how hard you try to seal off the tube (screws, bolts, tape, etc.). For those of you that used to be in the military, it was called "PL5200". I use this stuff in the marine industry and it can't be beat.

[Spook50]

Originally Posted by timsteiny

If you don't want to paint the product that you apply (3M seam sealer should be painted) you can use another 3M product that is stand-alone durable without being painted over...3M 5200 marine sealant. It also comes in a caulk tube and comes in white and black. I've heard that it comes in grey also, but haven't been able to find it. A couple of words of caution...don't get it on you or anything that you don't want it to be on forever, it's good and nasty. I put in in my 62 gutters over 4 yrs. ago with no problems. Make sure you tape off where you don't want it and once you use the tube, use it where you need it and toss the tube because it won't keep no matter how hard you try to seal off the tube (screws, bolts, tape, etc.). For those of you that used to be in the military, it was called "PL5200". I use this stuff in the marine industry and it can't be beat.

Do you remember how long this stuff takes to cure? How flexible is it once cured? Sounds like a better way to go than the fuel tanker sealer, especially if you can get it in grey. Be a pain in the arse to mask off the outer edge of that gutter though...

[Chase77]

To seal my gutter, I removed all of the old caulk, tape the area off, used a wire brush to roughen up the area, 2-3 coats of rust bullet sealed it up, followed that with self leveling epoxy seam sealer, couple more coats of rust bullet for the hell of it, got in any low spots with some regular body sealer, then painted over all of this with a color matched spray can. Seems to have fixed all my wather issues besides it leaking in by my windshield gasket.

[FJKai]

Thanks for the info. It sounds like a bit of a job, at least in terms of getting the old crap out. I'll be looking in to the 3M stuff. One tube seem to cover everything as needed? Would hate to start it and run out before I'm done.

[azaussie]

Originally Posted by FJKai

Thanks for the info. It sounds like a bit of a job, at least in terms of getting the old crap out. I'll be looking in to the 3M stuff. One tube seem to cover everything as needed? Would hate to start it and run out before I'm done.

FJKai

Do you plan to paint? Once you start how about some pics during the process?

[mtb_rider]

I am a boat mechanic and we use a polyurethane based sealant around the shop. Bostik, Sikaflex, etc. It has incredible adhesion properties, obviously waterproof, seems to hold up well to chemicals, resists shrinking and cracking, uv, etc. Sikaflex is kinda "stringy", but the Bostik is very clean and easy to work with, and whatever excess you do get, cleans up very easily with a mild solvent, acetone, thinner etc. Just avoid 3M 5200. Shit drys like concrete. You'll have to chisel it off if you ever need to remove it.

[FJKai]

Originally Posted by azaussie

FJKai

Do you plan to paint? Once you start how about some pics during the process?

Well I'm not thinking about painting it at the time. I will need to eventually since I got oxidation on the roof and hood. I just need to solve the leak problem in the mean time. How are people getting to old crap out? Scrap and chisle it away? Sounds fun.

[DirtyLittleSecret]

Originally Posted by mtb_rider

I am a boat mechanic and we use a polyurethane based sealant around the shop. Bostik, Sikaflex, etc. It has incredible adhesion properties, obviously waterproof, seems to hold up well to chemicals, resists shrinking and cracking, uv, etc. Sikaflex is kinda "stringy", but the Bostik is very clean and easy to work with, and whatever excess you do get, cleans up very easily with a mild solvent, acetone, thinner etc. Just avoid 3M 5200. **** drys like concrete. You'll have to chisel it off if you ever need to remove it.

Good thing you added that! The 3M 5200 is some VERY serious stuff. I used this on my J24 keelboat, and I still say BS when you say "chisel". More like a jackhammer! I used it to seal up my winches and I doubt they will EVER come loose. The boat will be needing a new deck if anyone was to remove them!

[timsteiny]

3M 5200 stays very flexible! No cracking or peeling after curing...keeps a rubbery flexibility to it. No chiseling required. It does take a few hours to "skin over", but not bad. It's your best way to go.

[mtb_rider]

Originally Posted by timsteiny

3M 5200 stays very flexible! No cracking or peeling after curing...keeps a rubbery flexibility to it. No chiseling required. It does take a few hours to "skin over", but not bad. It's your best way to go.

Not sure what 5200 you use. I can immediately tell when I'm working on a boat and someone else has used that stuff, and I generally want to kick their ass when by the time I'm done.

[timsteiny]

Any product used in the wrong fashion isn't good. 5200 is designed to be used for sealing pretty much where ever you are fastening different materials, i.e. metal stanchion onto fiberglass superstructure, radar array onto boat roof to help seal the holes and hold the hardware into place, sealing thru-hull fittings, etc. I've used it on work boats and my personal boats without issue...under the water line! If used correctly and in the right fashion, why would you ever need to remove it? Why would you seal a rain gutter on any landcruiser, then want to take it back off? You wouldn't, so use the product that doesn't come off easy. If you say the stuff is such a bitch to get back off, then that is the stuff I would be using on my rain gutters, and I have, over 5 years ago. It's still pliable, and my gutters don't leak either does the thru-hull fittings under water on any of my boats.

[zprovo]

any thoughts on how to apply any of these products?
I tried once and made a real mess of my gutters, the channels on the 'A' pillars are especially tight. I need to get back in there, clean everything out and redo it, but I'd appreciate any thoughts before I bodge it up again....

Thanks
zach

[zprovo]

I'll take some pictures of the 60 this weekend so I can introduce myself and my 60. great forum!

[OlympiaFJ60]

To get the old out I started with a chisel then the wire wheel to clean it all up. Just make sure every thing is really dry. My right rail down the A pillar had some captured moisture and I had to redo that part. I used the 3M all around body sealer and will try to find the part number. Used a caulk gun and ran a bead all the way around then using a damp (gloved) finger just smoothed it out and "squished" it into the gutter/roof joint. Worked well. The hardest part was dealing with the little bit of rust starting at the rear above the left hatch hinge (where the two sections of the rail come together). Then got the color matched can of paint from CSK, masked and sprayed away. Used on tube of sealer and one small can of paint.

[iichart]

My vote is for 5200 fast cure this stuff is great . I used it when I built a aluminium shed and it was the only one on the block to survive hurricane wilma- tough stuff- One word of warning it will wind up in your hair on your dog on your wife ang on your pecker if you are not careful LOL.

[cando john]

fiberglass resin ....clean it out ..mix it up..... brush it in... protech any area that you don't want it ... you could always sand down what drips down worked for me .....

[gumbydood]

I worked for a guy who took 15-passenger vans and modified them for transit use. Raised roofs, wheelchair lifts, walk-through doors, etc. We used a lot of sikaflex, in white, grey, and black. Good stuff... paintable, sandable, and sticks like, um, glue.

When I built my camper van, I used 3M 5200 to seal the junction between the fiberglass roof and the van body (I was gonna use sika, but I couldn't find it locally). I did that summer of 2001, then in 2002 I coated the exterior with "durabak" (think 60grit rhino-liner), including the entire top (and the 5200). I've had no leaks of any sort in these joints with over 35000 miles, sitting exposed to Pacific Northwest winters (think lots of rain), and now in Missoula for a winter.

I will likely use one or the other when I get around to exterior work on George, my 86 FJ.

Good luck
Eric

[AA996]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I had some A-pillar leakage from our recent rain here in Maryland. I took the roof gutter trim off and was astounded at the amount of dirt and gunk that had accumulated there over the years. No wonder this is a common location for rust. I used a very narrow chisel and a small hammer to get the old caulking out and plan on hitting the area with a Scotch Brite wheel followed by two coats of Rust Bullet, then sealing the gutters with 3M 5200 before painting the entire roof with gloss white epoxy. Hopefully this will cure the leaking, prevent any rust and will give us a cooler interior too. I plan on reinstalling the chrome trim as even though it is an enabler for rust, it looks better with it than without. I'll just make a habit of checking and cleaning it regularly.

Also I plan on using any left over Rust Bullet on the inside of my rear quarter panels. I looked inside them today and found about 1/4" of damp dirt and gunk in the left side. That's just a perfect breeding ground for corrosion and I want to coat the surface before rust has the chance to form. I'll also be draining the rear windshield washer reservoir as this may be the source of the moisture.

I'll try to take some pictures as I make progress. Wish me luck.

[GAS-A-LOT!]

PICS PLEAS!!!!

I need to know/see exactly where these areas are so I can see how bad mine are. Can someone say... Preventive maintenance.

Oh and one more thing. My roof rack (when loaded with 200lbs+) sinks/leaves imprint where the rack meets the gutter. I have this on my 80 and can bet that my 60 has it (will check) too.

Does that mean I need to refill my gutter?

[EastCanFJ62]

Is this a common problem with the 60 series? (just curious) My FJ62 is leaking in the same place, the passenger side rain gutter. I used a product called Seal-All and has worked so far...

Mark

[Cruiser62]

Same problem with mine, get tired of seeing drips out of the corner of my eye while driving. How do you get the sealant into the gutter along the pillar where it gets extremely narrow? Advice on what to use?

[saucebox]

Originally Posted by OlympiaFJ60

To get the old out I started with a chisel then the wire wheel to clean it all up. Just make sure every thing is really dry. My right rail down the A pillar had some captured moisture and I had to redo that part. I used the 3M all around body sealer and will try to find the part number. Used a caulk gun and ran a bead all the way around then using a damp (gloved) finger just smoothed it out and "squished" it into the gutter/roof joint. Worked well. The hardest part was dealing with the little bit of rust starting at the rear above the left hatch hinge (where the two sections of the rail come together). Then got the color matched can of paint from CSK, masked and sprayed away. Used on tube of sealer and one small can of paint.

I can confirm that this works. To make the gloved part easier, pour laquer thinner into a bucket and continually dip the gloved hand (the one doing the smoothing) into the thinner. Keeps the crap from sticking to the glove (and if you're me--your hair, your clothes, your door handles, etc.).

[alaska60]

I just did this...... heres a thread of where I did this job and the products I used.....

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...t-10-days.html

HTH!

[Slowerthanu]

Here is what I am currently using to remove everything. On a high quality electric grinder like my Milwaukee, I turn the speed down to 2-3 for more control and go at it. The wheel will actually flatten out under speed and it will remove all rust, paint and sealant. My only word of caution is that it will remove metal if you stop and sit on a spot.

I'm gonna finish it off with 3M 5200 and then I'll using paint matched rattle cans to seal it up. My 62 is my camping and fun rig so I am not going for show quality.

On the 3m, a standard caulking gun will do the job.

[CMD82]

What's the best way to get get sealer down in the narrow sections in the A-pillar? It doesn't appear that the caulk tube will fit down there.

[monton]

This may sound like a dumb question, but do roof racks still fit on? I take it you guys are not filling the gutter, just sealing it. Correct?