[beatdown83fj60]

Ok, well from what I can tell I need to do atleast these things-maybe: Full TRE kit, draglink rebuild kit, brake master, new rubber/braided lines, and probably wheel cylinders.

How do I tell if my booster is toast? I will have a new LC master, I have a toy mini booster as well, which I pulled out of my own vehicle while still working so I know it's good. Also I only have been missing the rear brakes completely, but the fronts lock up. No mini m/c, no mini calipers, just land cruiser stuff. Should I count on the rear wheel cylinders being fried from being ran dry?

Next tire wear/steering- My driver side front tire is wearing very very unevenly from the outside in, and it is cupping and going out of round pretty quickly. Knuckle rebuild? Toe-in? Do I need perfect aire pressure all the way around?

TRE's- My wheel shakes back and forth while driving down the road.

[RredFJ40]

Get down and move your TREs around or you watch while someone else moves your steering wheel. If they move pretty freely you need to replace them. Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters has a good deal on them.

Tire wear - go have an alignment done at a shop. They'll tell you what's wrong, where you should be v. where you are at. and fix it for you if it is just an adjustment.

Brakes. You don't want your rears to lock up before your fronts. I forget how to check the booster but it is detailed in the FSM. Maybe someone can post up the page. sorry, here it is:

a) depress the brake pedal several times with the engine off, and check that there is no change in pedal reserve distance.

b) depress the brake pedal and start the engine. If the pedal goes down slightly, operation is normal.

a) start the engine and stop it after one or two minutes. depress the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes down furthest the first time, but gradually rises , the booster is air tight.

PS - a full TRE kit will have a new draglink, so you won't need a rebuild kit for yours.

Why do you think, or what do you mean by your rear wheel cylinders running dry. IF that was the case you wouldn't have ANY brakes.

[beatdown83fj60]

Well sadly, I pretty much have no brakes at all. But I can't seem to find the source of my leak. I was following a Ford Exploder who decided to lock up his brakes for a raccoon, so I locked em up, felt kind of a pop through the pedal, then the pedal dropped to the floor and ever since then all I've had is front brakes, kind of. It gets a little hectic in snow and on ice unless I'm in 4wd. I took the check valve off the booster and stuck some vacuum line down in there to see if the master was leaking in there. To my suprise it was dry. My front pads got so low that they shot the pad out and all I had left was a backing plate on one of them. We must have put almost 2 quarts in the thing and I pumped while my friend bled, and bled, and bled. Still no pedal and crappy brakes. I was planning on getting the steering products from Kurt.

[Tinker]

The MC is a dual system - 1 circuit for the front & 1 for the rear. You couldn't find evidence of a leaking wheel cylinder, flex line, or MC after the "pop" & didn't notice any leaks while bleeding?

If not, the only place the fluid could have gone is the vacuum booster (it can hold a lot!)

On the steering: save the alignment until you change the TREs & drag link. But check your tire pressure now.

[beatdown83fj60]

I couldn't find any noticeable leaks while bleeding or pumping the brakes at all. We did it in the garage and there was not a drop on the floor when we were done, so it must be in the booster and I just can't get at it with anything to see if it's in there. Thanks for the help guys. Putting a master cylinder on today or tomorrow to see if it helps.

[RredFJ40]

might as well throw that mini booster on for now and check your booster for leakage.

[beatdown83fj60]

Yeah, I think I will install it. It looks a little different and I haven't measured but the bolt pattern looks to be the same. Will it be less powerful than the LC booster?