83 FJ60 Build up thread

[Project60]

Spent 3hr and 20 minutes yesterday on the 60, finally got some pictures of it today. I moved the frame out from under the body and rolled the body to the other side by myself.

Got the rear spring pins and all the bushings out. Removed the spare tire carrier as well - it's in good shape, just some surface rust and a rebuild of the mechanism in order. I started grinding off the rivets for the rusty section in the rear too.

New position in Garage:

[Project60]

Here you can see the rear unboxed sections. I am planning on removing the channel and boxing the frame. Nothing special here.

Passenger side:


Driver Side:

[Project60]

Here is the rear X member. I will have to cut out the bad and weld in new.

[Project60]

Spare tire carrier looks ok. No major rust, just surface.

[Project60]

This is the part that concerns me. I am thinking of cutting this section out and welding in new. Anyone see any problems as long as there is sufficient patch panels?

Driver side is through just behind the spring pin:


Passenger side is fine:

[Winston]

I don't think it looks all bad.
Why not just grind the surface first and see how it looks - it really just looks like surface rust to me. I take it you're going to eventually POR it.

[Project60]

Originally Posted by Winston

I don't think it looks all bad.
Why not just grind the surface first and see how it looks - it really just looks like surface rust to me. I take it you're going to eventually POR it.

The only bad spot looks like the X-member.. I can see through it!

Good call on the rear spring hangers. I will sand blast before doing any cutting.

[Project60]

Spent 30 minutes on the 60 tonight until the battery in the drill died. I think the quickest approch to removing the buck rivets is to grind them flat and drill them out. Still have a lot to go.

End Result:

[Project60]

Well, I took a closer look at the areas behind the rear spring pin. Sorry Winston, but we were both wrong. I did the old screwdriver trick (with a light tap of the hammer). The driver side of 2-3" long and the passenger side is small.

I am going to have to grind off the center cross member and cut out/weld in patches for these areas. I will also have to weld in some extra material for strength. I can feel a ton of dirt in the frame, so it must of caused the rot.

Driver Side:


Passenger Side:

[Project60]

Started a discussion thread on how best to repair frame:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/168426-frame-repair-rust.html#post2382287


EDIT:
Decision Made - Make repairs to current frame. Keep posted to see how.

[Winston]

Ouch!

[Project60]

Got 2 hours on the 60 this weekend. Grinding and drilling out rivets. Rivets are my favorite . Gonna be out of town for a few weeks, sorry no progress for a while .

Stay tuned for the frame repair...

[Project60]

Got 2 hr 15 min on the 60 frame. I removed all the rivets finally and got the rear C channels out of the back of frame. both were rusted through. I could not find any tricks for removing rivots besides grinding and drilling them. I will say, I took my air hammer and it really helped to pull the C channel away from the frame rails - Only trick I got. The first picture really shows how much crap is behind the C channel.


Driver side removed:


Passenger Side Removed:


Air Hammer ($10 @ Harbor Freight):

[Project60]

Got 2 hours on the 60 yesterday. I got the 3rd to last cross member cut out and out of the way. You can see the inner C Channel is in more than one section. I will be cutting out a small section and welding back in for repair.

Crossmember removed:


Passenger Side:


Drivers Side:


Rear X Member Welded in and additional "support" to keep frame from twisting:

[Project60]

A little help from those still watching? The holes just behind the passenger side X-Member are for holding the fuel and brake lines - correct?

If I have to remake a piece for here, I want to make sure the hole locations are not critical.

Passenger side, behind X-Member:

[boots4]

Naw, those holes aren't critical. You could always bend the lines a little to where you put new holes or make some kind of longer tube clamp like the stock ones just custom for you application. Or you might get away with eliminating them since those line have a bunch of bolts holding it to the frame anyways. Or you could use long black zip ties around the frame. Or...

[Project60]

Originally Posted by boots4

Naw, those holes aren't critical. You could always bend the lines a little to where you put new holes or make some kind of longer tube clamp like the stock ones just custom for you application. Or you might get away with eliminating them since those line have a bunch of bolts holding it to the frame anyways. Or you could use long black zip ties around the frame. Or...

Thanks. I just wanted to confirm as my memory is so short . I will put the holes back in, I just won't worry about getting them too close to the original location.

[Project60]

Well, got 40 minutes and 3 cut off wheels on the 60 last night. I cut out a section of inner frame rail from the passenger side. You can see in the photos that the inside of both rails has a "water" line on it. What happens is that the drail holes in the frame get clogged (mine have rocks in them) and water sits inside the frame rails. You can see how much crap is inside the frame as well.


Passenger side with cut out inner frame rail:


Passenger side inner frame rail. You can see the "Water" level rusted into the steel:

[Zack1978]

It looks as if you are working long and hard on this 60! Just out of curosity, why did you make the choice to keep your current frame?

Zack

[Project60]

Originally Posted by Zack1978

It looks as if you are working long and hard on this 60! Just out of curosity, why did you make the choice to keep your current frame?

Zack

The main reason I chose to repair what I had is to learn. This is a project for me and I am learning new skills and practicing others. The second reason is cost - If I simply replace everything with new or near new this thing would get out of control very quickly.


There are only 2 real problem areas:

• The first is the unboxed section in the back with the back to back C-Channels. This isn't a big deal as it is easy to clean and I can simply box it in.
• The second is some rust on inside of the frame rails (as you see above) due to the water sitting inside the frame. This I can cut out and replace without "too" much trouble.

[Zack1978]

Originally Posted by Project60

The main reason I chose to repair what I had is to learn. This is a project for me and I am learning new skills and practicing others. The second reason is cost - If I simply replace everything with new or near new this thing would get out of control very quickly.


There are only 2 real problem areas:

• The first is the unboxed section in the back with the back to back C-Channels. This isn't a big deal as it is easy to clean and I can simply box it in.
• The second is some rust on inside of the frame rails (as you see above) due to the water sitting inside the frame. This I can cut out and replace without "too" much trouble.

Good deal! One thing that has been told to me many times over is get the frame galvinized! That might be worth a look for you.

Zack

[Project60]

Originally Posted by Zack1978

Good deal! One thing that has been told to me many times over is get the frame galvinized! That might be worth a look for you.

Zack

Thought about it. I have heard some negative comments about the heat warping the frame and having to chase all the threads. Plus when you are done you would have to paint it anyway to make it look nice.

I am thinking a few coats of zero-rust sprayed on (for practice using the paint gun) and a topcoat of chassis black after sandblasting the frame.

[flybynight]

just a curious question.....

if you are planing on media blasting the frame any ways, why do it after the repairs? why not first so you can see what has really gone on with the rust.?

yours is not the first i have seen this done or talked about.

project looks like a great experience. thanks for the write up.

[Project60]

Originally Posted by flybynight

just a curious question.....

if you are planing on media blasting the frame any ways, why do it after the repairs? why not first so you can see what has really gone on with the rust.?

Once I get both sides cut off, I will blast the inside of both rails. I also wanted to blast the frame before I reattach the body mounts and X-Member. I just work slow with the busy schedule .

[Project60]

I bought 300 pounds of 30/60 coal slag on Friday from United Western Denver ($33 total). They said this was the best for 3/32" to 1/8" tip size. Hopefully I will get to use it soon .

[Project60]

I got an hour and 40 minutes on the 60 this afternoon. The neighbor was more than kind in letting me borrow his pressure washer. It was a gas powered 2500psi model - worked like a champ. I drug the frame out to the driveway (well... the kid's wheelbarrow and my creeper sit did all the work ). I sprayed it down and soaped it all up. They say to clean it up good before sandblasting as the grease can get driven into the steel.

After cleaning the top, I hoisted the front in the air with my engine hoist and sprayed inside the frame rails until the water ran clear.

Pressure Washer:


Clean frame in need of sandblasting and paint: