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Old 06-25-07, 05:42 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klinetime574 View Post
Hm not sure. I just remembered how spiffy springs look repainted. Chicago did it with his SOA build-up.
Thanks, I will do some searching and see what I come up with. Never did read all of Chicago's SOA thread.


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Old 06-25-07, 05:44 AM   #122
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Remove?

Question to those who have done it, or those who have an opinion. It looks like my tranny cross member is bolted to the frame. Should I pull this off for the frame painting portion, or will it make the frame too weak to carry around?


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Old 06-25-07, 06:41 AM   #123
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Nice work so far, I am in the prcess of doing the same with my '84 60, except that I am springing over and dropping in a 4bt. I was wondering what to do about all the bolts that have broken off as I have been taking this thing apart? should I just replace with bolts the same size or should I try to find sock bolts off of a junker? Obviously nothing that I need to worry about in the near future, but still something to think about.

I think the frame should be plenty strong enough to move around with the cross member removed, although it adds stiffness to the frame I think it is there primarily to support the tranny/tcase.
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Old 06-25-07, 01:40 PM   #124
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If the stock bolts broke once they will break again. Buy better/stronger bolts for replacements.

X2 on the strength of the frame without the cross member.


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Old 06-25-07, 01:53 PM   #125
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Well you have inspired me to go out and get some work done on mine today, thanks. I was looking over my parts cruiser (the one I am taking the frame from) and I can't seem to locate the access hole for the furthest reward cab mounting bolt. It looks as though it should be just inside the tail gate but I can't fine it, I will post pic's of the "area" when I remeber to take my camera with me, please let me kow if you know about the one I am talking about.
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Old 06-25-07, 01:55 PM   #126
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Man you have that thing TORN DOWN!

x2 on the Springs - You should probably take the whole pack apart, and get some grease in there between the leaves, repaint it once you have it all cleaned up and put back together.

Good to see more parts coming off of Justins Rig. He sold me my "New" Grill and Light Doors.


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Old 06-25-07, 07:59 PM   #127
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Access hole?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bahndo111 View Post
Well you have inspired me to go out and get some work done on mine today, thanks. I was looking over my parts cruiser (the one I am taking the frame from) and I can't seem to locate the access hole for the furthest reward cab mounting bolt. It looks as though it should be just inside the tail gate but I can't fine it, I will post pic's of the "area" when I remeber to take my camera with me, please let me kow if you know about the one I am talking about.
Not sure which access hole you are talking about. If you are talking about the bolts from the body to the frame, I did not have to "hold" them from the top get the double nuts off. I haven't done anything on the inside except for the shifter plate.


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Old 06-27-07, 09:15 PM   #128
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Disassembly work

1.5 hours on the 60 today. I took off the transmission cross member, wasn't much to it until I got to the last bolt . The impact wrench stripped the head it was so tight. I ended up drilling the head off after I broke 2 screw removers. I had to weld 3 different nuts on to the remaining bolt as it kept shearing the weld.

I took off the spring pin and shackle bolts as well. As with most of you, none of them want to budge. I don't have a torch, so I am thinking of cutting the pins as I will have to buy greasable for all anyway.


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Old 06-28-07, 07:52 AM   #129
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I took off the spring pin and shackle bolts as well. As with most of you, none of them want to budge. I don't have a torch, so I am thinking of cutting the pins as I will have to buy greasable for all anyway.

That might be the ticket. Although it might be pretty hard to get a sawzall through those Bolts. If you get a small Propane (plumbing) torch, that could help burn out the old bushings, It stinks real bad though.

You could just cut the spring wrap with a grinder, since your putting on the new lifted springs.


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Old 06-28-07, 09:21 AM   #130
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You could just cut the spring wrap with a grinder, since your putting on the new lifted springs.
That's a good idea, will go that route.

Only problem is that I will be losing the resale vaue of the 230k mile springs.


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Old 06-28-07, 11:26 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project60 View Post
Not sure which access hole you are talking about. If you are talking about the bolts from the body to the frame, I did not have to "hold" them from the top get the double nuts off. I haven't done anything on the inside except for the shifter plate.
I wish I didn't have to hold mine from the top. I was able to remove the jam nuts (one of the two nuts on the body mount bolts) without any issue but when I try the other one(s) the bolt just spins. I am thinking of just cutting with the sawzall but I may get a helper to hold a wrench on the bolt head while I crank on the nuts from below.... this still leaves me with the problem of those rear bolts, like I said I can't figure out where I am supposed to access those , guess I'll burn that bridge when I can't get any further.
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Old 06-28-07, 12:04 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by Bahndo111 View Post
I wish I didn't have to hold mine from the top. I was able to remove the jam nuts (one of the two nuts on the body mount bolts) without any issue but when I try the other one(s) the bolt just spins. I am thinking of just cutting with the sawzall but I may get a helper to hold a wrench on the bolt head while I crank on the nuts from below.... this still leaves me with the problem of those rear bolts, like I said I can't figure out where I am supposed to access those , guess I'll burn that bridge when I can't get any further.
Looking back at my pictures on page 4 of this thread, the bolts at the back should be right under the tailgate... might have to pull the tailgate to get to them?


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Old 07-02-07, 08:09 PM   #133
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Got some time in today and I found the access panel for the furthest rear cab mounting bolts. If you get under the truck and look from the front at the bolt and then look above it you may (or may not see depending on how much rust/dirt there is packed up under there) see two philips head srews holding a cover plate on. I have not gotten mine off yet because I wanted to soak it in PB blaster before I strip the heads off. I may just drill the heads and then replace with socket head cap srews, we'll see how it goes. Anywhoo heres what it looks like. Can you say RUSTY!
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Old 07-02-07, 08:21 PM   #134
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Wow that helps a lot Bahndo I couldnt figure out where those were. I got mine the majority of the way off, then as i lifted the body i just unscrewed them. Also instead of unbolting all the rusty bolts I just cut them off with an oxy/mapp torch. I think that saved me a lot of time.


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Old 07-03-07, 09:23 AM   #135
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Originally Posted by Bahndo111 View Post
Got some time in today and I found the access panel for the furthest rear cab mounting bolts. If you get under the truck and look from the front at the bolt and then look above it you may (or may not see depending on how much rust/dirt there is packed up under there) see two philips head srews holding a cover plate on. I have not gotten mine off yet because I wanted to soak it in PB blaster before I strip the heads off. I may just drill the heads and then replace with socket head cap srews, we'll see how it goes. Anywhoo heres what it looks like. Can you say RUSTY!

Wow! I thought mine was bad .
Thanks for picture!


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Old 07-04-07, 02:07 PM   #136
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Front Axle Removed!

2 hours on the 60 over the last few days. I finally got the front axle removed. I ended up burning the bushings and using a 2 jaw puller. I bought an 8lb sledge hammer, but the wife says its a little too loud to use while the kids sleep. 2 jaw puller worked, but I had to use a bolt for an extension to get the spring pins out.

Pics to come.


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Old 07-04-07, 07:33 PM   #137
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Pictures

Here is the 2 jaw puller used:


Here is the bolt I used. I drilled the start of a 1/2" hole on top to keep the point on the puller from wandering all over.


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Old 07-04-07, 07:35 PM   #138
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Pictures

Here is the axle pulled out:


And of course, the frame with nothing left on the front :


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Old 07-04-07, 07:45 PM   #139
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It looks like I am going to pick up a puller tomorrow. After spending hours burning bushings and some serious beating I still dont have any bolts out. Thanks for the tip!


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Old 07-05-07, 09:30 AM   #140
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It looks like I am going to pick up a puller tomorrow. After spending hours burning bushings and some serious beating I still dont have any bolts out. Thanks for the tip!
When you removed the shackle bolts, just push on the threaded end with the puller. Keep running the puller into the bushing, even though it is larger than the ID of the bushing.

You have to use the bolt on the spring pins because the hole in the frame is too small.

Worked like a champ and was much quieter than the sledge!


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Old 07-08-07, 02:50 PM   #141
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Disassembly work

1 hour on the 60 yesterday. Got the springs pulled from the front axle. Also got the bushings pulled out of the frame from the front shackle hangers. Both front springs had a broken leaf!

Axle:


Cracked Front springs:


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Old 07-08-07, 07:53 PM   #142
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what are you doing next? You should be close to being all the way down to the frame.

Whats your plan for the frame?



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Old 07-09-07, 11:23 AM   #143
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Undecided

Unfortunately, I am still debating that one somewhat. One of the major handicaps I have is lack of space. Maybe someone out there can chime in on past experience.

Option 1:
* Tear down to frame.
* Move the body and store it offsite. My brother in law lives on an old farm and will let me store it outside until he moves (could be anytime ).
* Paint the frame and axles.
* Move the finished mobile frame outside for storage.
* Move body back into garage.
* Finish body. Mate to frame.

Option 2: (leaning this way - non traditional path)
* Tear down to frame.
* Put bare frame in backyard to store (painted or un-painted?)
* Finish body.
* Bring frame inside and mate to body.

I like option 2 cause it means not storing things offsite. I don't like the idea of mice in the body. I have a lot of body work to do, so I would hate to leave the finished frame outside for so long as well.


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Old 07-11-07, 06:38 AM   #144
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Disassembly work

Got an hour on the 60 last night. Took the brake lines and fuel lines off the frame. Had to spend some time cleaning up the garage and hauling some parts outside for storage.

Frame is now stripped to the rear axle.


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Old 07-11-07, 07:13 AM   #145
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I would clean it up and paint that frame first thing!,

One of the things im regretting about not taking the body off for my build is that I won't be able to get paint on some of the areas on the top the frame rails.

When I replace my Body Bushings, that will be as close to body off frame as I'll get, I will probably be able to get paint (Rust Bullet) on Most of it then.

I, like you, have very little space to work with.


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ARB Front bumper w. warn winch and PIAA lights
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Old 07-12-07, 06:25 AM   #146
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Disassembly work

Got 1hr and 20min on the 60 last night. Removed the rear shocks (someone put Rancos on) and removed the rear schackle bolts. It took a fraction of the time to get the rear bolts out.


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Old 07-12-07, 06:28 AM   #