83 FJ60 Build up thread - Page 3

Project60 · 03-14-07, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5280Hawk

Thanks Man!

I just posted some Photos of my Progress on the thread titled "Out of Hibernation"

Saw the thread, looks great so far! I am very impressed at work while laying under the vehicle. It is not fun to lay on your back and remove rust and dirt while it falls on you.

5280Hawk · 03-14-07, 04:10 PM

Thanks for the compliment. I researched a little trying to find some way to rent a lift bay for that very reason, but in the end I just decided to grin and bare it. It will take a while to get all of the underside to look that nice, but it will be worth it.

I will definately follow your build, and also post more pics of progress on my 60.

Project60 · 03-16-07, 09:54 PM

Finally got to spend some time on the 60 tonight. 1hr 20 minutes.

I finished pulling the rear bumper. Had to drill out almost every bolt. Little rusty not too bad. I dropped the spare tire. Tire looked good, I think its the original as it still has the little "nubs" on it. Rim is rusty on the inside though. I pulled th passanger rear mudflap, driver side was already gone. You can see in the picture how bad the damage to the passenger quarterpanel is as well. I took a few pictures of the rust in the unboxed section of the frame as well.

Rear Bumper Removed:

Spare Tire:

Damage to Pass Quarter Panel:

Rust in unboxed section of frame:

Project60 · 03-16-07, 09:56 PM

To all those who have done this in the past I had a question:
Do I need to drop the gas tank? It looks like the tank is strapped to the body and not the frame, is this correct?

FJ40Jim · 03-17-07, 08:11 AM

Correct, the tank & fill neck can stay w/ the body as it is lifted off the frame. You'll need to disconnect the 2 fuel lines and a vapor line that connect to the frame.

Project60 · 03-17-07, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FJ40Jim

Correct, the tank & fill neck can stay w/ the body as it is lifted off the frame. You'll need to disconnect the 2 fuel lines and a vapor line that connect to the frame.

Thanks Jim!

Project60 · 03-17-07, 10:17 PM

Spent another 1hr and 20min on the 60 tonight.

I drained the fuel tank into a 5 gallon bucket. About 2 gallons came out. Not too bad, a little orange. I unhooked the supply, return and vent lines where they attached to the frame. All three are above the rear axle on the passenger side.

I removed the front wheels and put jack stands under the frame. I don't like the option I have to remove the body from the frame, but I am going to have to lift the body and put it onto a cart while I work on the frame (doesn't look like I have enough height for a rotisserie either). Due to limited space, I will have to roll the body into the backyard and cover it with a tarp. When I am done with the frame, I will put the body in the garage and frame outside.

On a side note... what do you do with gas that has been sitting in an old car for over 4 years?

FJ40Jim · 03-17-07, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Spent another 1hr and 20min on the 60 tonight.

I drained the fuel tank into a 5 gallon bucket. About 2 gallons came out. Not too bad, a little orange.

On a side note... what do you do with gas that has been sitting in an old car for over 4 years?

Burn it on a brushfire. IME, the stuff won't explode, 'cause it's barely capable of supporting combustion.

Project60 · 03-17-07, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FJ40Jim

Burn it on a brushfire. IME, the stuff won't explode, 'cause it's barely capable of supporting combustion.

I hear that. It was probably half water anyway.

CruisinFJ60 · 03-18-07, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Project60

On a side note... what do you do with gas that has been sitting in an old car for over 4 years?

spell out your name in the street with it in the middle of the night and light it on fire and take pics and post em here on MUD.

baxter650 · 03-18-07, 09:04 AM

What are your plans for the rear of the frame?
I have drilled out all the rivits holding in the stiffening channel to removing it.
The channel itself was the cause of almost all the rust in that section and the rot all came with it.
I haven't decided if i should box in the rest of the frame using through spacers to mount the hangers or replace the channel as it was.

Project60 · 03-18-07, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruisinFJ60

spell out your name in the street with it in the middle of the night and light it on fire and take pics and post em here on MUD.

Too late. If I would have thought of it, I would have done it. The neighbors are already beginning to hate me and I haven't even started with the sandblasting yet.

Project60 · 03-18-07, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baxter650

What are your plans for the rear of the frame?
I have drilled out all the rivits holding in the stiffening channel to removing it.
The channel itself was the cause of almost all the rust in that section and the rot all came with it.
I haven't decided if i should box in the rest of the frame using through spacers to mount the hangers or replace the channel as it was.

Baxter, I haven't figured that out yet. I thought of drilling out the channel and boxing it in. If I replace the channel, it is just going to repeat itself in another 25 years

. I am leaning towards boxing it in unless someone else has a clever idea.

Project60 · 03-19-07, 09:53 PM

Spent 25 minutes on the 60 tonight.

Pulled the rear wheels and got ready to lift the body off, nothing special. A few missing wheel nuts and one that was 3/16" rather than 21mm.

And here is what is slowing things down. I am getting close, but still more trim to go.

Project60 · 03-26-07, 11:57 AM

Spent 1.5 hours on the 60 yesterday.

Took off the 10 body mounts with an impact wrench. All but 3 came off with little effort. Had to cut the last 3 off with a cut off wheel. Removed the e-brake cable from the cab and dropped it down to the frame.

I should have the body off the frame here shortly and will have to roll it out to the backyard while I work on the frame. Of course that means a new gate on the fence, so bear with me.

dslcruzr · 03-26-07, 02:42 PM

I just finished a frame swap and I removed the inner c-channel on my new frame and boxed it in. Rather than putting in sleeves to bolt things back on I Welded nuts on the inside of the frame. Digging out that inner channel is NO FUN!!! Let me know if I can answer any questions.
Ken

dslcruzr · 03-26-07, 02:50 PM

here's a picture of the frame boxed in with 3/16 plate.
Ken

svo_jon · 03-26-07, 04:17 PM

I have heard that when you weld on a frame there is a "right" way and a "wrong" way to do it, is this true and how did you do it?
Thanks
Jonathan

dslcruzr · 03-27-07, 12:28 AM

The only thing I have heard is that You're not supposed to do vertical welds on a frame because it will make a breakable spot. But I did it anyways. The factory does a vertical weld on each frame rail, so why can't I?

I think It wight be more of an issue when you're welding all the way around the frame, ie: lengthening/shortening. Other than that, I just cranked up the welder and tried to get as good of penetration as possible. Hope that helps
Ken

Fantom · 03-27-07, 01:02 AM

There is a right and wrong way to weld on a frame, if you do long welds up vertically, especially on the main "c" of the frame then you are almost cutting it. If you are "splicing" the inside box of the frame and at the splice you weld vertically - that is ok, since it is a joint and a weld is better then nothing (also stronger). You also don't want to do weld on the top and bottom from inside to out, as this also "gouges" the steel.
For those that have never seen it, make a "T" with some scrap steel and weld the joint all the way to the end. Then have a look at that end and you'll see how much metal is actually melted away and replaced by whatever filler you use during welding.
As for the factory welds, they only do short welds vertically, unless you include the inside filler plate which is not that important as the outside "c". Also notice how they do not weld anything to the underside (suspension mounts) but rivet it.

Project60 · 03-27-07, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dslcruzr

here's a picture of the frame boxed in with 3/16 plate.
Ken

dslcruzr, thanks for the pictures! I was leaning towards doing the same thing. I don't think I will do it as long as you have, but close to. Any tips on getting the old C-Channel out? I don't have the body off yet, but what did you need to weld nuts on for?

Fantom, thanks for bits on welding. I will stick to short horizontal welds to box the frame in.

dslcruzr · 03-27-07, 12:08 PM

I needed to weld nuts on the inside of the frame to bolt on the body mounts and shackle hangers. The rivets that hold on those items go right through both layers of the frame, so you have to cut/drill the rivets in order to remove the inner layer.
Removing the c-channel is quite a chore. If you have a torch, then you're all set (I didn't). I ground the heads off all the rivets (both sides) and chisseld out the channel with a big chissel and brow bar. I had to drill the rivets out of the shackle hangers and body mounts because I was unable to punch them out. Hope that makes sence.
Ken

Project60 · 04-01-07, 08:24 PM

Got 1 hr 45 minutes on the 60 yesterday. I started to build the body dolly I am going to roll the body around on. I built a frame for both sides, with a wheel under each leg. Haven't attached the legs yet.

I also went out and bought a new air compressor. Lowes was having a sale on their tools, I got 15% off plus had another coupon for 10% off. Had to buy wiring for 220v 30 box in the garage as well. Compressor puts out 13.3 CFM at 90psi - I'd love more, but will do nicely.

antifiat2 · 04-01-07, 08:42 PM

Man, I have been so discouraged as of late, seeing my 81 FJ60 parked out in front of our rented house, in the weather, dying of cancer and calling to me to pour a few thousand buck into it for a SOA to go real wheeling etc.

Don't know if I'll take it apart piece by piece but would love to have the time. This article keeps me encouraged but I lose enthusiasm very quickly. Of course, I am brought back to reality just as quickly when I look at the prices of newer 4Runners and 80's.

Keep up the good work to give hope to people in similar situations as mine.

03-14-07, 04:10 PM	#62
5280Hawk IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 977	Thanks for the compliment. I researched a little trying to find some way to rent a lift bay for that very reason, but in the end I just decided to grin and bare it. It will take a while to get all of the underside to look that nice, but it will be worth it. I will definately follow your build, and also post more pics of progress on my 60. __________________ - 1983 FJ60 - 229K 2.5" Man-a-fre HD leaf springs, HFS shocks 4runner Calipers, 4.11 thirds 33x10.50MT's Wilderness Roof Rack CORN TACO - DD - 2005 Tacoma Double cab with Ethanol full flex converter ARB Front bumper w. warn winch and PIAA lights 3" Toy Tec Lift Rock-tec rear bumper

03-16-07, 09:54 PM	#63
Project60 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Thornton, CO Posts: 471	Disassembly work Finally got to spend some time on the 60 tonight. 1hr 20 minutes. I finished pulling the rear bumper. Had to drill out almost every bolt. Little rusty not too bad. I dropped the spare tire. Tire looked good, I think its the original as it still has the little "nubs" on it. Rim is rusty on the inside though. I pulled th passanger rear mudflap, driver side was already gone. You can see in the picture how bad the damage to the passenger quarterpanel is as well. I took a few pictures of the rust in the unboxed section of the frame as well. Rear Bumper Removed: Spare Tire: Damage to Pass Quarter Panel: Rust in unboxed section of frame: __________________ 83 FJ60, major project in progress Check out status of the build: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=128847

03-16-07, 09:56 PM	#64
Project60 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Thornton, CO Posts: 471	Body Removal Questions To all those who have done this in the past I had a question: Do I need to drop the gas tank? It looks like the tank is strapped to the body and not the frame, is this correct? __________________ 83 FJ60, major project in progress Check out status of the build: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=128847

03-17-07, 08:11 AM	#65
FJ40Jim Cruiser Curmudgeon Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lancaster, Ohio, USA TLCA# 1914 Posts: 3,142	Correct, the tank & fill neck can stay w/ the body as it is lifted off the frame. You'll need to disconnect the 2 fuel lines and a vapor line that connect to the frame. __________________ Thanks, Jim C. TLC Performance Underhood Janitor, cleaning up other people's since 1988.

03-17-07, 10:17 PM	#67
Project60 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Thornton, CO Posts: 471	Disassembly work Spent another 1hr and 20min on the 60 tonight. I drained the fuel tank into a 5 gallon bucket. About 2 gallons came out. Not too bad, a little orange. I unhooked the supply, return and vent lines where they attached to the frame. All three are above the rear axle on the passenger side. I removed the front wheels and put jack stands under the frame. I don't like the option I have to remove the body from the frame, but I am going to have to lift the body and put it onto a cart while I work on the frame (doesn't look like I have enough height for a rotisserie either). Due to limited space, I will have to roll the body into the backyard and cover it with a tarp. When I am done with the frame, I will put the body in the garage and frame outside. On a side note... what do you do with gas that has been sitting in an old car for over 4 years? __________________ 83 FJ60, major project in progress Check out status of the build: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=128847

03-18-07, 09:04 AM	#71
baxter650 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Abbotsford B.C. Posts: 419	What are your plans for the rear of the frame? I have drilled out all the rivits holding in the stiffening channel to removing it. The channel itself was the cause of almost all the rust in that section and the rot all came with it. I haven't decided if i should box in the rest of the frame using through spacers to mount the hangers or replace the channel as it was. __________________ 1980 PU 9" lift 383 38" Swampers 1993 FZJ80 6" slee lift 37s 2000 XR671L 83 BJ60 under construction 2008 XR650L

03-19-07, 09:53 PM	#74
Project60 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Thornton, CO Posts: 471	Disassembly work Spent 25 minutes on the 60 tonight. Pulled the rear wheels and got ready to lift the body off, nothing special. A few missing wheel nuts and one that was 3/16" rather than 21mm. And here is what is slowing things down. I am getting close, but still more trim to go. __________________ 83 FJ60, major project in progress Check out status of the build: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=128847

03-26-07, 11:57 AM	#75
Project60 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Thornton, CO Posts: 471	Disassembly work Spent 1.5 hours on the 60 yesterday. Took off the 10 body mounts with an impact wrench. All but 3 came off with little effort. Had to cut the last 3 off with a cut off wheel. Removed the e-brake cable from the cab and dropped it down to the frame. I should have the body off the frame here shortly and will have to roll it out to the backyard while I work on the frame. Of course that means a new gate on the fence, so bear with me. __________________ 83 FJ60, major project in progress Check out status of the build: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=128847

03-26-07, 02:42 PM	#76
dslcruzr IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Saanichton, BC, Canada Posts: 205	I just finished a frame swap and I removed the inner c-channel on my new frame and boxed it in. Rather than putting in sleeves to bolt things back on I Welded nuts on the inside of the frame. Digging out that inner channel is NO FUN!!! Let me know if I can answer any questions. Ken Attached Images __________________ 1984 BJ60, Poo brown, SOA, c&t, Track bar, Homemade rear/donated front bumpers, 4x4labs hysteer, York OBA, New frame, and 38" Michelin military tires . soon to come: Transmmission rebuild, 4.88 and aussie locker

03-26-07, 02:50 PM	#77
dslcruzr IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Saanichton, BC, Canada Posts: 205	here's a picture of the frame boxed in with 3/16 plate. Ken Attached Images __________________ 1984 BJ60, Poo brown, SOA, c&t, Track bar, Homemade rear/donated front bumpers, 4x4labs hysteer, York OBA, New frame, and 38" Michelin military tires . soon to come: Transmmission rebuild, 4.88 and aussie locker

03-26-07, 04:17 PM	#78
svo_jon IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Bend OR/Santa Cruz CA Posts: 206	I have heard that when you weld on a frame there is a "right" way and a "wrong" way to do it, is this true and how did you do it? Thanks Jonathan __________________ 71 fj40 - 351w, Holley Pro Jection, SOA, NV4500, other goodys 86 fj60 - Rebuilt 2f with SOR "RV" cam, header, DUI, OME Heavy, 4.11s, ARB, 33/12.50/15 Pro Comp M/T's

03-27-07, 12:28 AM	#79
dslcruzr IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Saanichton, BC, Canada Posts: 205	The only thing I have heard is that You're not supposed to do vertical welds on a frame because it will make a breakable spot. But I did it anyways. The factory does a vertical weld on each frame rail, so why can't I? I think It wight be more of an issue when you're welding all the way around the frame, ie: lengthening/shortening. Other than that, I just cranked up the welder and tried to get as good of penetration as possible. Hope that helps Ken __________________ 1984 BJ60, Poo brown, SOA, c&t, Track bar, Homemade rear/donated front bumpers, 4x4labs hysteer, York OBA, New frame, and 38" Michelin military tires . soon to come: Transmmission rebuild, 4.88 and aussie locker

03-27-07, 01:02 AM	#80
Fantom I'm Polish-don't taser me Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Port Coquitlam TLCA# 16277 Posts: 1,101	There is a right and wrong way to weld on a frame, if you do long welds up vertically, especially on the main "c" of the frame then you are almost cutting it. If you are "splicing" the inside box of the frame and at the splice you weld vertically - that is ok, since it is a joint and a weld is better then nothing (also stronger). You also don't want to do weld on the top and bottom from inside to out, as this also "gouges" the steel. For those that have never seen it, make a "T" with some scrap steel and weld the joint all the way to the end. Then have a look at that end and you'll see how much metal is actually melted away and replaced by whatever filler you use during welding. As for the factory welds, they only do short welds vertically, unless you include the inside filler plate which is not that important as the outside "c". Also notice how they do not weld anything to the underside (suspension mounts) but rivet it. __________________ Mat R. '84 BJ-60 with some goodies, found a new body - soon to start a new creation. pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/fantomdesigns/ "Idiot proof will not stop a determined idiot"

03-27-07, 12:08 PM	#82
dslcruzr IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Saanichton, BC, Canada Posts: 205	I needed to weld nuts on the inside of the frame to bolt on the body mounts and shackle hangers. The rivets that hold on those items go right through both layers of the frame, so you have to cut/drill the rivets in order to remove the inner layer. Removing the c-channel is quite a chore. If you have a torch, then you're all set (I didn't). I ground the heads off all the rivets (both sides) and chisseld out the channel with a big chissel and brow bar. I had to drill the rivets out of the shackle hangers and body mounts because I was unable to punch them out. Hope that makes sence. Ken __________________ 1984 BJ60, Poo brown, SOA, c&t, Track bar, Homemade rear/donated front bumpers, 4x4labs hysteer, York OBA, New frame, and 38" Michelin military tires . soon to come: Transmmission rebuild, 4.88 and aussie locker

04-01-07, 08:24 PM	#83
Project60 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Thornton, CO Posts: 471	Disassembly work Got 1 hr 45 minutes on the 60 yesterday. I started to build the body dolly I am going to roll the body around on. I built a frame for both sides, with a wheel under each leg. Haven't attached the legs yet. I also went out and bought a new air compressor. Lowes was having a sale on their tools, I got 15% off plus had another coupon for 10% off. Had to buy wiring for 220v 30 box in the garage as well. Compressor puts out 13.3 CFM at 90psi - I'd love more, but will do nicely. __________________ 83 FJ60, major project in progress Check out status of the build: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=128847

04-01-07, 08:42 PM	#84
antifiat2 IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 20	Following this article with great interest... Man, I have been so discouraged as of late, seeing my 81 FJ60 parked out in front of our rented house, in the weather, dying of cancer and calling to me to pour a few thousand buck into it for a SOA to go real wheeling etc. Don't know if I'll take it apart piece by piece but would love to have the time. This article keeps me encouraged but I lose enthusiasm very quickly. Of course, I am brought back to reality just as quickly when I look at the prices of newer 4Runners and 80's. Keep up the good work to give hope to people in similar situations as mine.