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60-Series Wagons Tech talk for the 60, 61, and 62-Series Cruiser wagons -- FJ62.com




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Old 12-03-06, 07:40 PM   #1
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Grease in bottom of doors?

Aloha

This weekend I thought it would be a good idea to fix all the electric door-lock and windows in the FJ62 I bought last week (See Hawaii Newbie Intro). After popping off the panels, and fixing the right rear passenger window actuator as well as determining the master door lock switch on the driver door was shot, I noticed that at the bottom of door there was some grease applied. My question is whether this was a factory applied standard or the PO's attempt to deal with any water leaking through the window seals?

If it is not supposed to be there I will clean up prior to closing up the door panels.... If it is a good rust measure I'll goop it on before I button it up.

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Old 12-03-06, 08:37 PM   #2
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I've had a couple of my 62 doors apart and don't recall seeing any grease in the bottom of them. There shouldn't be any water getting in there, if the seals are functioning properly.

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Old 12-03-06, 10:03 PM   #3
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Grease

I had to break through some of the factory plastic to get to the actuators. It could be the grease was residual from the actuators but I thought I'd check. It has been raining in East Hawaii the past few days but no moisture inside the doors so not sure what the grease source is. Based on the response I'll chalk this up as a vehicle "age" nuance.

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Old 12-04-06, 12:16 AM   #4
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IIRC when I was looking for a Diesel Cruiser I spoke to a Canadian that informed me it was recently "greased" which I asked him about and apparently this is a known rust preventive tactic? It sure would be messy but why would'nt it work? Maybe our friends up north can chime in with some pro's and con's?

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Old 12-04-06, 02:30 AM   #5
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I just curious how much grease we're talking about here. I'm sure the gears and motor got greased at the factory. I personally can't see any benifit to having a load of gease at the bottom off the door. Perhapes the greasemonkey at the factory went crazy with his gun and they just sealed up the door normal. Perhapes a greasemonkey latter got in the door and went nuts. Anyway I'd probably forget about it. Don't even both cleaning it out since it does no harm or good.

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Old 12-04-06, 09:15 AM   #6
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Speaking of popping off the door panels....I'm in the middle of doing the same on mine and had a time getting the rear panel back on. There's that rubber molding on the small rear quarter window that makes it nearly impossible to get back on. I ended up using tire tools from my motorcycle to get it to go back on. Is there another trick to this?

later,

m

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Old 12-04-06, 09:58 AM   #7
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Door panel trick

Mine went on pretty easy. Basically what worked for me was to put the top part of the panel on over the door lock first, then while keeping the bottom out at an angle I pushed the right hand side (opposite the door lock) straight in, while holding the rubber part up with a credit card. Once the top of the panel was over the window sill, I popped the rest of the panel into place.

Hope that helps...

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Old 12-04-06, 10:47 AM   #8
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I've heard some people dump oil in hteir door panels to prevent rust. I was thinking about it the other day since I'm getign rust bubbles on my doors..

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Old 12-04-06, 11:00 AM   #9
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I pump my chassis full of gear oil - like 80w90 - once or twice a year, against rust. Have done it to doors too, but tends to make a mess... It's important to keep oil away from rubber parts, like engine mounts, shackle bushes - 'cos it softens the rubber real fast...
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Old 12-05-06, 01:14 AM   #10
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A Canadian weighing in on grease in the doors - I just bought my first Cruiser, an 86 HJ60, and the body is in brilliant shape. When I first started looking behind the body panels, I thought that something had leaked horribly everywhere, but soon realized that someone had purposefully painted on a layer of weird yellowy grease to a bunch of the body panels.
As you know what a bunch of rust buckets we generally have up here after 20 years of wet and salt, I would have to say that the grease worked extremely well. Anywhere that was greased, has not the slightest trace of rust. The only downside is the mess that you get into if you have to work inside those panels - I had to repair the electrical quick-connect for the rear lights and got as greasy as I would if I was redoing wheel bearings...
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Old 12-05-06, 11:06 AM   #11
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Leave the grease there.

It could have been sprayed in thru openeds around the locks??

I spray all the insides of my doors with oil.

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Old 12-05-06, 11:24 AM   #12
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napa makes a very good spray "lube for open gears" that sticks really good...for frames/inside doors/ ect.
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Old 12-05-06, 11:39 AM   #13
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This is common here in Europe an certainly here in Norway where I live. Vehicles just dont survive without it. Makes a huge difference in second hand price of a vehicle if it has been "greased" when it was brand new. The oil covers all metal and painted surfaces and dont allow water in (remember oil & water dont mix )

My 2003 Pajero 3.2 DiD (Montero or Shogun) has had two full body treatments allready. Inside and out. All voids and cavities are sprayed with special agents that penetrate like CRC and keeps moist out and rust gone.

Check out Tectyl and TuffCoteDinol products for reference.


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Old 12-05-06, 01:23 PM   #14
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Rust proofing is usually aplied by drilling holes in the non-visible part of the body and spraying it in and then capping the hole with a plastic plug. Usually around the latch mechanism on a door. If you have these plugs then its probably been proffesionaly rust proofed. I have mine done every year. Costs around $100 cdn and takes about an hour.... My truck is 25 years old seen salt every year and has no rust. Easier to prevent than repair. I don't imagine salt is a big issue in Hawaii though....

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Old 12-06-06, 02:57 PM   #15
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Salt air all around in Hawaii.


Dinol mentioned above is sold in North America as Dinitrol...... Awesome stuff.

Used in seaplanes commonly.

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Old 12-06-06, 04:12 PM   #16
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when i got my body work done a couple of months back the insides got sprayed with this crap called fisholene which is awesome, it stops rust and doesnt leave a mess like oil or grease, the only problem is it smells really bad for a while afterwards, good stuff tho.

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Old 12-06-06, 04:39 PM   #17
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Is it made of rendered Fish guts???? Yuck.

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Old 12-06-06, 08:26 PM   #18
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this stuff is also good...

http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/CorrosionInh/Lps3.asp
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Old 12-06-06, 08:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownbear View Post
Is it made of rendered Fish guts???? Yuck.
It could be you never know these days, they put weird crap in everything.
its some sort of fish product thats apparently derived from fish that is water proof which is handy because fish live in water.

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Last edited by serenity; 12-06-06 at 08:50 PM. Reason: i cant spel gud :D
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Old 12-06-06, 08:49 PM   #20
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http://www.wattyl.com.au/NR/rdonlyre...osol504376.pdf

yep it contains fish oil

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