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60-Series Wagons Tech talk for the 60, 61, and 62-Series Cruiser wagons -- FJ62.com




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Old 12-01-06, 05:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Uh-Oh!

Bad news! While crawling around under my 60. I see that my rear shock mounts are rusting through. Or rather that the frame member where the shock mounts are is nearly rusted though where they are welded to the frame. Does anyone sell a replacement for this that I can purchase and have welded in place or does it need to be fabricated? Kinda sucks, trying to head South here in a couple of weeks. Guess I could take the FJ80.


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Old 12-01-06, 08:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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covered just the other day, this site has a pretty good search engine..............

How do I fix this, and is it dangerous to drive? (shock tube)
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Old 12-01-06, 10:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Indeed, but in essence, take the member out before you go on a long trip, and as far as I know they don't make a replacement so you'll have to have a welder make a new one. Should cost around $300 for a new one from a good welder.

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1987 FJ60 - MoonShine - SROR Front Bumper, H55f, 2-Low, SOA, 62+AAL fronts w/ Ironman rears, 35" MT/R's, FF w/ 4.11's, Round Eyes, KMR's Tailgate Hatch, desmog + headers, Storage / Sleeping system, etc. -- DD w/242k

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York 210 OBA, shocks, lots of little things....

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Originally Posted by VTCruiser View Post
It seems I either have the time or the money to work on my Cruiser. Never both.
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Old 12-02-06, 01:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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jegs sells a universal shock crossmember thats ment to be cut down to the size you need. they use them on hotrods but should work on the cruiser

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Old 12-05-06, 11:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I had the same problem, and fixed it with a piece of steel pipe. This piece of thick-wall pipe had a diameter somewhat bigger than the original crossmember, and was about 1 feet long. I have cut this piece of pipe in two (in the length), giving me two 'shells' of steel pipe. I then shortened the crossmember somewhat (to remove the rusty ends), and welded the shells against the frame so you have two 'hangers' to lay the crossmember in. The only thing was then to weld the crossmember to the new pieces of pipe, but there was no need to completely reconstruct the original crossmember.

The only issue was that at the drivers side (where the exhaust piping is run), I had to weld the hanger upside down, in order to clear room for the exhaust. But the crossmember is as easily attached to this upside-down hanger by welding, as it is welded to the new support on the other end. And it was a cheap solution.

Good luck,

Dieter
'86HJ60 diesel
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