Question about Cat-Back Exhaust

klinetime574 · 11-18-06, 05:54 PM

My questions about the Man-a-Fre Cat-back exhaust (KIT) are....

-Is it bolt on?
-Is it everything you need?
-What is it replacing?
-And most of all is it the right choice?

Dirty Toad · 11-18-06, 06:06 PM

I am not trying to take biz from MAF, but why is it that you want to use their system? I got mine done at the local muffler shop for $200, and got to show the guy how I wanted it routed (so as to have better ground clearance). I love it. Still want to replace the Cat, but that is another story.

klinetime574 · 11-18-06, 06:16 PM

It just looks like an easy way to get a exhaust system, i haven't really researched it. Therefore don't know what i am doing. Thats why I am asking the experts.

grant5127 · 11-18-06, 06:19 PM

As Toad stated.. go with your local exhaust shop... in my area a flowmaster is $125.00 in stalled... little more with a custom exit...

klinetime574 · 11-18-06, 06:27 PM

wow thats cheap, but i am looking to replace all of the piping. whats the point of just changing the muffler? if your there do it all.

phoenix1055 · 01-10-07, 08:15 AM

Anybody ever replace their entire exhaust system? (pipes, cats, muffler)

I have an 89 ...and have a leaky muffler... you can see the exhaust squirting out from the muffler underneath the truck in the mornings cold.. when you first start it..

I was looking under there this morn and it is all pretty rusted.. I mean all of it (pipes... cats.. etc..) from the manifold to the tip of it

What's the cost of doing the whole thing ? Best approach to doing it? How many bananas type of job to do yourself? Wouldn't a muffler shop practically rob me for the whole system?

jmarsh1977 · 01-10-07, 11:08 AM

For the last 2 months I have been listening to a blown out exhaust (OEM muffler was swiss cheese) and huffing on exhaust fumes. I armed myself with some good knowledge from the 3FE list and IH8mud forums and then went click-crazy on Summit Racing's online store.

The parts came to me in 3 days and I got the entire exhaust system done at a reputatble local shop last weekend. Here's the skinny:

2.5 aluminized steel, welded throughout with exception to the header flange for easy disassembly and maintenance

fabricated y-pipe before a single catalytic convertor

2 Denso O2 sensors from Auto Medic Supply http://www.oxygensensors.com, outside O2 installed shortly after header flange in engine bay, other in stock location and distance from cat

2.5 inlet/outlet Stainless Flowmaster 50 Series SUV Performance muffler from Summit Racing, FLO-52557 MUFFLER 50 SERIES $89.95, installed in stock location below heat shield

(originally I wanted to go with http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...20931&D=320931, as seen on the Saggin' Wagon project Ian and Jesse did on Xtreme 4x4 but opted to save that for the FJ40 since the FJ62 is my daily driver)

Single 2.5 inlet/outlet Magnaflow Catalytic converter from Summit Racing
MPE-94106CA UNIVERSAL CATALYTIC CONVERTER $65.95, in stock location under heat shield

I had the tailpipe routed out the rear but inside the frame rail, instead of coming through the leafsprings and using the stock bracket. I told the guy to leave some length so I can cut it later, before the bumper to avoid pinch (bumper not installed at this time) and so I can figure out what tip I want to put on it. Right now the routing hugs the side of my 38 gal. Long Ranger fuel tank, dips down a little and exits just below the rear cross member that attaches to the bumper. Pics would help.

I've got a borla intercooled stainless steel tip on order to complete the frankenstein effect of the multi brand setup and help w/ the any heat, but what's the forum's thoughts on the routing near the Long Ranger tank??? Should I be concerned w/ the heat at all? It's aluminized steel as well.

My observations so far:

Looks great all tucked under without that outside leg over the framerail

Great sound for a daily driver, not too loud at all with a nice mellow tone

I did not notice any low end gain. I have noticed a big improvement on accelerating to merge onto the interstate. I'm closing distances a lot faster than I'm used to and I've caught myself having to hit the brakes so I don't tailgate.

Engine bay actually running cooler (probably from fixing donut gaskets).

Cab temperature and noise is way better as expected

The flowmaster 50 series has a little interior resonance but the vibration could be from the engine and/or tranny now that I can actually hear and feel it with the old exhaust replaced. I have some dynamat xtreme ready to go in when I get the time.

COST and AFTERTHOUGHT

Even after printing a 5 page breakdown with pictures for the exhaust shop and a lengthy explanation while it was on the rack, the tech still muffed up some things. I think it was more lack of communication from what I told the desk guy up front with what I told the tech that did the work. I should have re-iterated it but I was already feeling like I was pissing off the tech with "26 years of experience" with all the "MY WAY or NO WAY" instruction. Most people just drop off their rides but I've had too many shops mess up stuff on my cruiser before. So be sure you walk out back and talk at length to the tech doing the work and be firm with your plan.

Even w/ ordering all the parts myself, I still got hosed by the muffler shop for $500.00 after taxes. He even said he gave me a little bit of a break on it. I think they wanted to make up the margin they usually get from marking up the parts. Labor was $150, so that means I paid about $350 for fabbing up the y pipe, welding in the O2 bungs, gaskets at the header flange, and the 2.5 pipe. Other's have had better luck on pricing. Tack on what I paid for the parts and the venture was close to $900 bucks. Not cheap, but cheaper than an OEM replacement and it was a fun investment into the cruiser w/ a little performance gain.

I will try to post pics if I can figure it out and a sound bite when I have time.

Good luck!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by phoenix1055

Anybody ever replace their entire exhaust system? (pipes, cats, muffler)

I have an 89 ...and have a leaky muffler... you can see the exhaust squirting out from the muffler underneath the truck in the mornings cold.. when you first start it..

I was looking under there this morn and it is all pretty rusted.. I mean all of it (pipes... cats.. etc..) from the manifold to the tip of it

What's the cost of doing the whole thing ? Best approach to doing it? How many bananas type of job to do yourself? Wouldn't a muffler shop practically rob me for the whole system?

2badfjs · 01-10-07, 11:28 AM

i have it in my 60
plug and play
i could instantly tell the difference.
i have hills it can pull that before the 60 could'nt.

it's a nice system.

phoenix1055 · 01-10-07, 11:37 AM

AWESOME feedback JMarsh..

I'd like to give it a shot myself instead of handing over the 500 bucks for labor... but maybe it is just worth the aggravation to pay em....

I wonder if anyone has actually done it themselves... and what the problems were.

Micah · 01-10-07, 12:20 PM

i will say go with the local shop also, i got mine with a flowmaster and 3'' pipe for about $200. i love the and the way it sounds.

euclid · 01-10-07, 12:22 PM

The local shop did my exhaust work.

A single 2.5" down pipe from inside the engine bay.

Measure the distance from the exhaust manifold to the 2 o2 sensors, and place the new o2 sensors the same distance from the frame.

Get rid of the cross over under the frame.

You can also use a dual in single out catalytic converter, if you don't want the exhaust to come together up in the engine bay.

I used a dynamax super turbo muffler. It's quieter than the flowmaster.

The whole project should be around $400 at a muffler shop, unless you decide on stainless.

I also had them weld in a flex pipe right before the muffler. It allows for more movement when flexing the truck.

FJ60Cam · 01-10-07, 01:04 PM

I got the MAF for the FJ60... My only complaint is that I can't use the FJ62 sway bar without modifying the linkage.

I looks/ sounds good. It's not loud at all, has a nice rumble at idle. Quiet at highway speeds. It's nice and tucked up out of the way and the exit is good too, unless you have chopped rear quarters or something special going on there.

It looks like it SHOULD be bolt-on, but save yourself the frustration and take it to an exhaust shop to cut out the old and weld in the new. I think I paid $35 or so for that.

2badfjs · 01-10-07, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phoenix1055

AWESOME feedback JMarsh..

I'd like to give it a shot myself instead of handing over the 500 bucks for labor... but maybe it is just worth the aggravation to pay em....

I wonder if anyone has actually done it themselves... and what the problems were.

see post above your post.

plug and play no issues, perfect fit , took all of less than 1 hour to remove and replace.

we used a lift at work with air tools

maybe a tad longer without air.

S&S1stCruzer · 01-10-07, 08:41 PM

I put MAF's catback exhaust on my FJ60 and the ceramic headers, I bought the rig and did all the backlogged engine maintenance, suspension upgrade and had the headers and catback system installed by a Cruiser mechanic in my area, only complaint I have is that I probably did pay too much for the MAF catback and since I installed the MAF's 4" Shackle reversal, the rear shackles will hit the exhaust tip under load. Unfortunately I never really drove it before so I have nothing to compare it to.

jmarsh1977 · 02-03-07, 03:02 PM

Here's the cat I mentioned in the earlier post.

jmarsh1977 · 02-03-07, 03:09 PM

Denso O2 sensor detail (see earlier post above)

britklr · 02-03-07, 03:32 PM

I just got done doing my entire exh. with OEM parts (head pipe, gaskets, muffler w/pipe and bolt on Cat with Temp. probe outlet) $350 and it all bolted on with no problems....I thought about the whole custom thing, but it was going to cost more and be welded in. Good luck.

FJ60Cam · 02-22-07, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by euclid

....I also had them weld in a flex pipe right before the muffler. It allows for more movement when flexing the truck...

How's the flex pipe holding up? Is it the braid lookin' type? Just curious if it is prone to leak or fall apart over time. I was thinking of replacing the cat with a section of this stuff (already smogless).

I've had studs snap off, and welds crack in the past (probably due to a broken motor mount) and thought this might help prevent it in the future.

phoenixrider · 02-22-07, 02:35 PM

Around these parts, exhaust systems seem to come gold plated - without the gold! Got quoted over 4 bills for a cat back with a new cat and muffler.

I know auto part stores sell 'pieces' of pre-bent exhaust pipe, so I'm gonna see if I can get the cat, muffler, and pipes and build it myself

AACruiser · 03-22-07, 06:32 PM

Resurrecting an old thread here, but....

I am wondering where the MAF kit transitions from 1 - 7/8" (I think) ID exit from the cat to the 2 - 1/4" ID feeding the muffler.

It seems to me that the three-sided flange out of the cat must have same ID as the three-sided flange on the pipe connecting to the input of the muffler.

I need new exhaust, but want to keep the bolt in status of the cat.

Thanks,
Andy