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Old 10-18-06, 08:40 AM   #1
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Reading 3FE engine codes at home

I couldn't find this on Mud. Thanks to Aaron (Mr 2FE), he put this together some time back. I have had several questions about reading the check engine light on a 3FE lately, so here it is. I'll be adding it to the FAQ.


Get a Haynes, Chilton’s, or a Factory Service Manual (FSM)
For the FSM call Toyota Publications @ (800) 622-2033

How do you retrieve the codes?

It’s easier than you think. Follow the following steps to find out how your engine is running.
  • Initial Conditions:
    • Battery voltage 11 volts or more
    • Throttle valve fully closed (TPS IDL points closed)
    • Transmission in neutral
    • Accessories switched “OFF”
    • Engine at normal operating temperature
  • Turn the ignition switch “ON”. DO NOT START ENGINE
  • Using a jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the check connector.
  • Read the diagnostic code as indicated by the number of flashes of the “Check Engine” warning light.
There will be a series of flashes. For example, if your ECU showed an error code 13 you would see one flash a pause and then three more flashes. Then a pause of 2.5 seconds and you would see the single flash again then a short pause then the three flashes again. Have a pen a paper ready to write when the light starts to flash.



The codes are in your manual.


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Last edited by euclid; 10-18-06 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 10-18-06, 12:34 PM   #2
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I should probly put the pictures up there huh? I'll get those tonight for everyone. Sorry.


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Old 10-18-06, 01:29 PM   #3
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Pictures of were the jump wire goes would be the best so I know exaclty were to put it. I need to do this and figure out why my light is on and get it fixed
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Old 10-18-06, 01:42 PM   #4
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I'll take a picture of the wire in the connections. It's really easy to do. Make a short wire with some spade connectors.


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Old 10-18-06, 05:23 PM   #5
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a bent paper clip will also work.
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Old 10-18-06, 08:05 PM   #6
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This is really about as simple a process as you can find. Jump Te1 and E1. They're labeled. Trust me, pictures really aren't necessary.


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Old 10-18-06, 08:07 PM   #7
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Are the codes the end word in diagnosis? I mean, are they always right?
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Old 10-18-06, 08:14 PM   #8
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I found the pictures and the whole works
and descriptions on birfield.com it is really
easy to do. It is all spelled out for you there


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Old 10-18-06, 09:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBBenson View Post
Are the codes the end word in diagnosis? I mean, are they always right?
They're always right. But they are not the sort of thing that lets you fix an exact problem after seeing a code. More like very helpful hints to know where to start, or know that youc an rule something out.

SOmetimes the code will tell you of a problem you didn't even know existed.

In some cases the code will tell you exactly which part needs to be replaced, or which circuit has failed. But don't assume it will be that simple.


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Old 10-18-06, 11:38 PM   #10
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Were at on birfield was looking on there I couldnt find it. I must not be as good of a searcher as you. I am a member to so that shouldnt be a reason. I am still looking though.
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Old 10-18-06, 11:51 PM   #11
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Never mind on that one I think I figured it out. How can you tell if there is more then one code tripped. Will it just go right on to the next number after it is done with the first one? There could be multiple ones wrong with mine, I sure hope not though.
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Old 10-19-06, 12:17 AM   #12
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The first code will flash first. Then a pause and the second will start. It will cycle through all the codes and then start over.


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Old 10-19-06, 08:38 AM   #13
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Why not wire a toggle switch into the circuit?

That'd sure simplify things long term.


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Old 10-19-06, 08:59 AM   #14
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No, that would complicate the already very simple.

This is the easiest thing to do, ever. If you can fill your gas tank you can read the codes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Advent View Post
Why not wire a toggle switch into the circuit?

That'd sure simplify things long term.


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Old 10-19-06, 09:46 AM   #15
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If you swapped a 3FE (or 2FE) into something else, the plug might not be anywhere near the check engine light. By wiring a simple toggle into the circuit, you could just flick a switch and read the codes.

Even on a '62, it'd be easy to do. Splice into the wires before the plug.


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Old 10-19-06, 11:58 AM   #16
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The plug is nowhere near the check engine light anyway.

It is under the hood one the passenger side of the firewall.

A switch would not be a bad idea. But at the same time it is not something you need to do often, and as mentioned it is pretty simple, so...


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Old 10-19-06, 02:44 PM   #17
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Pictures are Up

Now the picture is up there.

Link: TE1 & E1

Picture:


And also with the wire in:
With Wire


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Last edited by tonkota; 10-19-06 at 02:51 PM. Reason: Added picture
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Old 10-19-06, 05:11 PM   #18
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The thing lit up like a christmas tree. There are three codes that were tripped 25, 26, and 28. Anybody have any good suggestions on how to fix these. I am not thinking it is as easy as replacing the oxygen sensor but I hope it is.
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Old 10-19-06, 06:14 PM   #19
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I am getting this thing figured out. There was a ground that was tucked away under the intake so I bolted up and it got rid of those. Now it is just code 28. Would that be the cat or the oxygen sensor.
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Old 10-19-06, 06:30 PM   #20
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Correction the hole is after the cats and right before the connection that goes to the muffler. I am thinking I need to fix the hole for everything to be cleared.
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Old 10-19-06, 06:31 PM   #21
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TonKota were do wheel around spokane maybe we can hook up for a trail run or something. I am down here in moscow for school.
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Old 10-19-06, 10:02 PM   #22
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When I get the Pig running I can go wheel then, but I need the 62 to stay clean since I rely on it. Vandal huh? I go to school at EWU. If you are up this way let me know and we can get together.


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Old 10-19-06, 10:06 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theside00 View Post
Correction the hole is after the cats and right before the connection that goes to the muffler. I am thinking I need to fix the hole for everything to be cleared.

Nope. nothing after the O2 sensor matters. Well, assuming that the cat is not clogged anyway. But holes after the cat never matter.


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Old 10-19-06, 10:21 PM   #24
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you said but holes! he he he!

oh, and I don't know if you saw this:
http://www.steelnthings.com/3fetrouble.htm


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Old 10-19-06, 10:50 PM   #25
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We dont have to go that hard wheeling since mine is my DD also and the only way I can get home. I did mine in park and it seemed to work but I will try it in neutral and see if it is different. And I am thinking that I need some new O2 sensors (that is going to hurt the old wallet).
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