Rear Axle Bearing

Cruzerman · 10-02-06, 08:51 AM

Can anyone recommend either a trick or a source for an inextensive bearing puller for the rear axle of my 60?

TIA

2badfjs · 10-02-06, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cruzerman

Can anyone recommend either a trick or a source for an inextensive bearing puller for the rear axle of my 60?

TIA

see if your local parts house ie. napa, auto zone,carquest will rent you one.
some rental places will have them also.

make sure you take your new bearing with you so you know it fits

lowtideride · 10-02-06, 09:13 AM

Trick: Do your best at pulling it out with exsisting tools. After you have failed but have removed all the rollers lay a bead around the inside of the bearing. When the weld cools it shrinks and shrinks the outside of the bearing with it.

Godwin · 10-02-06, 10:09 AM

I've used a slide hammer to yank rear bearings and it worked, and was work. Another approach is to pull the axles on both sides and the differential, you'll then have a clear shot at the insided of the bearing. Get a long pole, ca. 1 1/2" in diameter (+/-) and use that to drive the bearing from the inside. When I did it this way I stuck an appropriately sized bearing/race driver on the end. This technique worked well, but you do have to pull the diff.

NocalFJ60 · 10-02-06, 01:22 PM

A lead pipe through the opposite side worked great for me. Hit one side of the bearing and then switch to the other side until it pops out.

I had both side removed and the 3rd member out.

BlueCruiser84 · 10-02-06, 01:54 PM

I rented a slide hammer witha bearing puller from Autozone.

Cruzerman · 10-03-06, 05:38 AM

Some good tricks, but I'm not planning on pulling the diff. While I'm sure the welding trick will work, I don't think that's the method for me.

Looks like a puller is in order. Anyone know where to buy an inexpensive one or are these things used so infrequently that renting one is the way to go? I would prefer to buy one (if not too expensive) since I'm going to be doing my FJ40 sometime soon as well.

soggy60 · 10-04-06, 09:54 AM

RENT, best way to go.

Slide Hammer....

Some part stores loan tools, ask there first.

debushau · 10-05-06, 03:11 PM

I went through the slide hammer route last week and I can confirm that it was a lot of work. In fact, so much so that I would seriously consider the factory tool as an alternative. The factory tool looks like a gear puller.

The standard puller ends are just not the right size and the bearing cage will break fairly easily.

teejnut · 06-25-08, 10:49 PM

Did any of you guys rent the slide hammer from AutoZone? Does it come with attachments or what did you guys use?

AutoZone.com | In Our Stores | Loan-A-Tool Program

lovetoski · 06-25-08, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teejnut

Did any of you guys rent the slide hammer from AutoZone? Does it come with attachments or what did you guys use?

AutoZone.com | In Our Stores | Loan-A-Tool Program

I bought a slide hammer from NAPA. Similar to the one in the link you posted. Seriously hard work to remove. Took maybe 50 or 60 hits to pop the old bearing out. Cheaper than paying somebody else to do it however...

Cruiserdrew · 06-25-08, 11:08 PM

I've done one with a big slide hammer. That is serious work.

It is way easier to pull the differential and bang out the bearing with a pipe from the other side. i just did one like this the other day, and at most it took 5 minutes. I keep a piece of schedule 40 just for this job.

Remember, once you pull the axle shafts (which you have to do anyway) it isn't much more work to drop out the differential.

teejnut · 06-25-08, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovetoski

I bought a slide hammer from NAPA. Similar to the one in the link you posted. Seriously hard work to remove. Took maybe 50 or 60 hits to pop the old bearing out. Cheaper than paying somebody else to do it however...

Sounds like fun...

But I agree I would rather do this myself, it's not complicated just time consuming.

Cruzerman · 06-26-08, 05:38 AM

I actually did end up doing this using the free tool "rental" from Autozone. It was a big slide hammer with a hook. It was some work, but worked well. And the price was right (free!). That's what I would use if (when) I have to do it again.

teejnut · 06-27-08, 12:19 AM

Well I ended up getting and using the big slide hammer w/ hooks from AutoZone. Worked pretty well IMO. I think I struck each side about 20x max, didn't seem to be too much work. I think I spent a few minutes on each side before the race/bearing came out. I found it a lot easier then using brass drifts when I did my front axle rebuild.

cruiser88 · 06-27-08, 10:31 AM

If you are doing just one side rent the kit from Autozone....or shall i say deposit. If you are doing both sides use the pipe method.

I went out 2 years ago and bought the kit to work on my cruiser at fj40 Jim and have not used it sense or can I think of a reason to use it on my cruiser again.....i think i payed 140 some bucks

10-02-06, 08:51 AM	#1
Cruzerman IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Oregon Posts: 503	Rear Axle Bearing Can anyone recommend either a trick or a source for an inextensive bearing puller for the rear axle of my 60? TIA __________________ Cruzerman '85 FJ60 '78 FJ40

10-02-06, 09:13 AM	#3
lowtideride Ride On... Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Florida TLCA# 14891 Posts: 7,049	Trick: Do your best at pulling it out with exsisting tools. After you have failed but have removed all the rollers lay a bead around the inside of the bearing. When the weld cools it shrinks and shrinks the outside of the bearing with it. __________________ www.NFCruiserheads.org FJ45 Crawler and a 1983 Hilux... has had no peers for 50 years...

10-02-06, 10:09 AM	#4
Godwin IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 965	I've used a slide hammer to yank rear bearings and it worked, and was work. Another approach is to pull the axles on both sides and the differential, you'll then have a clear shot at the insided of the bearing. Get a long pole, ca. 1 1/2" in diameter (+/-) and use that to drive the bearing from the inside. When I did it this way I stuck an appropriately sized bearing/race driver on the end. This technique worked well, but you do have to pull the diff. __________________ Jim Godwin 1977 FJ40 with some stuff 1985 FJ60 with 3FE 1986 FJ60 now with stuff Tallassee, AL

10-02-06, 01:22 PM	#5
NocalFJ60 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: San Francisco Bay Area Posts: 2,659	A lead pipe through the opposite side worked great for me. Hit one side of the bearing and then switch to the other side until it pops out. I had both side removed and the 3rd member out. __________________ Kevin 1982 FJ60 Northern California SF Bay Area TLCA/PMC Member "He who throws mud only loses ground."

10-02-06, 01:54 PM	#6
BlueCruiser84 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt. Sidney, VA/ Blacksburg, VA Posts: 477	I rented a slide hammer witha bearing puller from Autozone. __________________ Faded blue '84 fj60 - 2 1/2 inch BDS lift and 33s, ARB front bumper, homemade rear bumper and sliders, snorkel, removable doors, lock-right out back...

10-03-06, 05:38 AM	#7
Cruzerman IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Oregon Posts: 503	Some good tricks, but I'm not planning on pulling the diff. While I'm sure the welding trick will work, I don't think that's the method for me. Looks like a puller is in order. Anyone know where to buy an inexpensive one or are these things used so infrequently that renting one is the way to go? I would prefer to buy one (if not too expensive) since I'm going to be doing my FJ40 sometime soon as well. __________________ Cruzerman '85 FJ60 '78 FJ40

10-04-06, 09:54 AM	#8
soggy60 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 693	RENT, best way to go. Slide Hammer.... Some part stores loan tools, ask there first. __________________ Nov 85 FJ60

10-05-06, 03:11 PM	#9
debushau IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: NJ/PA Posts: 72	slide hammer I went through the slide hammer route last week and I can confirm that it was a lot of work. In fact, so much so that I would seriously consider the factory tool as an alternative. The factory tool looks like a gear puller. The standard puller ends are just not the right size and the bearing cage will break fairly easily.

06-25-08, 10:49 PM	#10
teejnut IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: So Cal Posts: 216	Did any of you guys rent the slide hammer from AutoZone? Does it come with attachments or what did you guys use? AutoZone.com \| In Our Stores \| Loan-A-Tool Program __________________ Off-road: 1991 Land Cruiser - ARB front bumper, Custom sliders, IPF 968, HIRs, 33's BFG A/T KO, OME 850/863, CB , Aussie Locker, more to come... On-road: 2006 SGM IS350 - XD 6500k HIDs (headlights & foglights), GFX front lip, iForged Classics (polished, 19x8/19x10), Tein CS.

06-25-08, 11:08 PM	#12
Cruiserdrew KI6MIE Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Sacramento, CA TLCA# 11734 Posts: 6,741	I've done one with a big slide hammer. That is serious work. It is way easier to pull the differential and bang out the bearing with a pipe from the other side. i just did one like this the other day, and at most it took 5 minutes. I keep a piece of schedule 40 just for this job. Remember, once you pull the axle shafts (which you have to do anyway) it isn't much more work to drop out the differential. __________________ Andrew 1971 FJ-40 Rubicon tested 1976 FJ40 RIP 1984 FJ-60 H55f, 4.11, OME, Daily Driver 1989 FJ-62 117k-son's driver for now. 1997 FZJ-80 Factory sub-tank, and other tricks

06-26-08, 05:38 AM	#14
Cruzerman IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Oregon Posts: 503	I actually did end up doing this using the free tool "rental" from Autozone. It was a big slide hammer with a hook. It was some work, but worked well. And the price was right (free!). That's what I would use if (when) I have to do it again. __________________ Cruzerman '85 FJ60 '78 FJ40

06-27-08, 12:19 AM	#15
teejnut IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: So Cal Posts: 216	Well I ended up getting and using the big slide hammer w/ hooks from AutoZone. Worked pretty well IMO. I think I struck each side about 20x max, didn't seem to be too much work. I think I spent a few minutes on each side before the race/bearing came out. I found it a lot easier then using brass drifts when I did my front axle rebuild. __________________ Off-road: 1991 Land Cruiser - ARB front bumper, Custom sliders, IPF 968, HIRs, 33's BFG A/T KO, OME 850/863, CB , Aussie Locker, more to come... On-road: 2006 SGM IS350 - XD 6500k HIDs (headlights & foglights), GFX front lip, iForged Classics (polished, 19x8/19x10), Tein CS.

06-27-08, 10:31 AM	#16
cruiser88 They call me crazy88 Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: over here TLCA# 17319 Posts: 6,945	If you are doing just one side rent the kit from Autozone....or shall i say deposit. If you are doing both sides use the pipe method. I went out 2 years ago and bought the kit to work on my cruiser at fj40 Jim and have not used it sense or can I think of a reason to use it on my cruiser again.....i think i payed 140 some bucks __________________ "how 'bout we sing 'kyles mom is a bitch' in E minor?"by OregonCruzer http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/f...13957_15_0.jpg http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/f...113957_1_2.jpg

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