[Godwin]

I’m putting a fresh 2F into my 60 and the smog pump has been deleted, and a smog pump, pulley, or something is needed in this position for water pump operation (if the intention is to also have power steering). Actually I have a pump but it’s of questionable condition and I want something of use in that position so I’m sticking in a second alternator. I stopped by the salvage yard to see what was available and what I selected was a Delco CS 144 from a 1999 Suburban. There is a lot of variation with the alternator mounts, this one had typical ears on top and bottom, but it had a pulley for a serpentine belt. Got it for $45.

For starters here’s a comparison of an F, 2F, and the CS 144 alternator. The F alternator plays a role in this; it came from a ’69 FJ55. The CS 144 is considerably larger than the 2F alternator.

[Godwin]

First item to be addressed was the pulley. I popped off the pulley from the CS 144; below the pulley is the fan which has a center metal section and a plastic covering. (img 4029a) Below the pulley is a spacer which is 10 mm high. The shaft diameter is 17 mm. Now, get this, the shaft diameter of the F alternator is 17 mm. The pulley from the F alternator slipped right on. But to make sure that the clamping force on the pulley was centered on the shaft and not excessively on the fan, two washers were used to offset the body of the pulley from the fan. One washer was 3.25 mm thick and the other 1.5 mm. This sets the pulley out adequately. Part number on the F alternator pulley is 21041-0970 and the part number on a 2F alternator is 021041-0970. The pulleys are the same for both the F and 2F alternators.

Dealing with the pulley was the easy part, figuring out how to fit brackets in the very limited space for tensioning has been more fun, as the smog pump tensioning bracket will not fit.

(Side note: I tried placing the stock 2F alternator in the smog pump bracket but this would have been even more work and fabbing. It’s staying in the stock position.)

[Godwin]

I retained the 2F smog pump bracket and the lower CS 144 mount fits well in the smog pump spot, but there is a lot of empty space along the mounting bolt. I initially set it up with the smog pump bolt but the diameter of this bolt is too small thus there is excessive slop as mounted. In the place of the smog pump bolt I’m using a 3/8” x 5” (125 mm) bolt. The front hole on the smog pump had to be drilled to accept it. To properly set the alternator in alignment with the belt and other pulleys, a 7mm spacer is used on the front side of the alternator and a 38.5 mm spacer behind the alternator. For the spacers I found some 5/8” inner diameter bushings at the hardware store in plumbing supplies, with a length of 18.5 mm. Total inner space between the mounts of the smog pump is 96.5 mm. The alternator mount is 51 mm and to make up the remainder I needed two spacers, one 7 mm in length and a second 38.5 mm in length. The 7 mm spacer goes in front of the alternator mount with the 38.5 mm spacer behind. By cutting down one of the plumbing bushings the 7 mm spacer was made. The second spacer, used behind the alternator, was made with two of the plumbing bushings and a ½” inner diameter sleeve. The bushings fit snugly into the sleeve, were pushed in to the proper distance and JB welded in place. Total length on this spacer was 38.5 mm.

[Godwin]

To tension the alternator I’ve removed the stud that is located on the front of the engine block and passes through the power steering pump bracket. In its place I’ve put a 10 mm x 1.25 x 40 mm bolt (14 mm head). The AC tensioner block (or whatever this is actually named) has been set on this bolt and the head of the tensioning bolt rests against the upper ear of the CS 144. In this configuration I can tension the belt as much as needed.

[Godwin]

A small bracket to secure the upper alternator mount was fashioned from a plate that came from the FJ55. A piece approximately 70 mm long x 27 mm wide was cut from the plate. Holes were already present in the plate and were almost in the needed position to attach to the alternator and below the power steering pump bracket. These holes had to be elongated slightly to the approximate dimensions of 10 mm wide x 13 mm. A 3/8” x 3.5” (90 mm) bolt was used to anchor the upper alternator bracket. A spacer 9 mm long had to be cut (again from the 5/8” ID plumbing bushing) to prevent alternator misalignment when the bolts were tightened.

[Godwin]

A Downey style header will clear the alternator although I’m staying with the stock manifold.

The stock smog pump belt works.

Wiring will come later.

[CaliCruiser]

Very nice. With the recent threads about running dual alts, I am starting to consider doing the swap over winter. I'm sure you saw the recent thread about kevinrowland doing the same swap with a cruiser alt.
Nice work

Dylan

[Dirtgypsy]

very nice and well thought out. what extra's are you running to need dual alt's? Are you also running dual batteries?

Clint

[hicruise55]

Looks very nice! I love the silver engine block paint, what did you use? Is that the POR engine paint kit?

[Godwin]

I'll be running dual batteries, this alt will be going to a group 31 Yellowtop Optima. Hooked to this will be a 12k winch. For the time being this will be the only electrical accessory, but the potential to hook up more stuff is there when I need it.

Regarding the paint on the engine, it's Rustoleum Hammered silver. I don't know how well it will hold up but I've used it in other applications with good success. I went with the silver because of the dark conditions in the engine bay and I want to have a lighter color in there (to help find the oil leaks that may show up later).

[Godwin]

Update on this alternator installation.

While it was easy to set up while the engine was on the stand I discovered after installing the engine in the 60 that the size of the alternator is a problem. There is not enough movement with the alternator to adequately tighten the waterpump belt. Body of the alternator hits the power steering box which limits the swing of the alternator.

At this point I'm going to use a gutted smog pump for a tensioner, but I'll be looking at some of the smaller alternators to use.

[Dynosoar]

How about a shorter belt? Just a thought.

Dynosoar

[Godwin]

Thought about the shorter belt, and that might work. But for the time being I'm just swapping it out as I don't have time to try to source a shorter belt and swap that in.