Here are the Toyota part #s for a starter rebuild.

[hodag]

I just got done rebuilding the starter on my '87 and I thought I would share the part numbers for the contacts and the plunger.

I got the parts from Cdan, and he had to cross reference the numbers for a 3FE starter in an early 80 series. The Toyota computer does not show the individual parts for the 60 series starter.

Anyway here are the numbers...

Plunger Magnet 28235-35080
Starter Contact Kit 28226-72010
Starter Contact Kit 28226-72080

The rebuild couldnt be easier, about 1 hour including pulling the starter, cleaning everything, replacing parts and reinstall.

Hope this helps. Hodag

[tlcruzr]

Are these the same p/n's that I would use for the starter out of an 88 FJ-62? What was the total cost of the "kit"? Thanks, Joel

[hodag]

I think they would be the same numbers since they are numbers for a 3FE starter from an 80. I would double check with Cdan for sure.

I'll go dig up the reciept for the cost, but I think it was around $8 apeice for the 2 contact kits and like $12 for the plunger. Way cheaper than new, and too easy not to do yourself.

Hodag

[NorCal60]

Good post, Hodag!
I could've used this post back when CDan was on vacation but now I know what I need for the old starter.

[zcruiser]

Yup, same here, order parts from cdan but he's 'out of pocket' for a few days...



I paid ~$40 for the kit, shipping included. I plan to take pics when I do mine and will post here but may be a couple of weeks... At the beach right now and lovin' it.

[zcruiser]

OK, so this afternoon I finally did it.... Let me start from the beginning. My truck would start 95% of the time, but there was always that one time where I would turn the key and all I would hear was a "click" from the right floorboard area (guess why). Sometimes I could turn the key a few times and it would catch, other times I just gave up. The times I gave up, I could go back 30 mins later and it would hit the first time. Starter rebuild time.

Parts arrived from CDan on Friday, just in time. Saturday afternoon, ate a good lunch, no beer, peed one more time before going out to tackle the beast.

Parts as listed above:
- Plunger Magnet 28235-35080
- Starter Contact Kit 28226-72010 (what I call the "left" side contact kit per photos)
- Starter Contact Kit 28226-72080 (what I call the "right" side contact kit per photos)

Tools required:
- 3/8" ratchet drive, may also possibly need breaker bar
- 8" extension shaft
- 8mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket (6 point recommended)
- 12mm box end
- 14mm box end
- Hammer and flat cold chisel
- Lots of rags, degreaser , contact cleaner
- Nitrile gloves (yah, I'm a "nancy")

1) Gather your tools, park cruiser on a dry flat surface, slide some cardboard or something under the pass side of the engine to make it easier to slide around while getting at the starter.

2) DISCONNECT THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE BATTERY! This will cut down on the amount of sparks.

3) Locate the starter in need of attention (view is from inside pass tire toward oil filter):


4) Disconnect the battery connection (12mm) on the bottom side of the starter and the signal connection (pull off), then attack the 17mm bolt on the bottom side of the starter. I needed a breaker bar here, but as I said I'm a nancy.


5) Go to the top side to access the upper 17mm nut on the top of the starter. It is hidden behind the 'motor' part of the starter.


I removed the upper part of the starter (two rods w. 10mm hex head) to gain better access, but if you probe with the 17mm socket at the end of the extension, you can get to it w/o removing the top part of the starter. Here's a view with the starter motor removed, to give you an idea where the top nut is.


Removing the top part actually increases the work because if the inner motor comes out of the housing (as it did on me), you have to do some extra work to reassemble it, but it's not impossible. Here is the slightly disassembled starter after complete removal:


I can't help cleaning up parts that I have removed for repair...


I went ahead and put the starter motor back together before actually getting to the rebuild (though the astute will see the old parts lying about so this is actually an "after picture):


6) Locate the end cap of the starter where the plunger and starter contacts are located.
Use 8mm socket here on 3 bolts (instead of Phillips screwdriver):


7) Disconnect the starter motor lead and remove the cap to gain access to the plunger and contacts.
Take care when removing the cap as it has a rubber seal which must not be damaged.


8) Remove the plunger (simply pulls out), but keep track of the spring at the end of the plunger, you'll re-use it.
Note the worn contacts on the left and right side of the housing. My plunger didn't look that bad, but may as well replace it while I'm in there.


9) Ready to start installing the new parts, here's what came from CDan:


10) New parts alongside old parts:

Plunger...


"Left" side contacts (when I took this pic I left out the 'cup' that goes between the 'O'-ring and the flat washer but it was included in the kit)...


"Right" side contacts (showing the cup)...


"Right" side contacts bolt had to be "pressed" onto right side contact (I used a hammer and chisel to tap it on)...


11) When disassembling left side contacts, note that there is a square washer soldered to a wire.
Carefully remove old parts while leaving this square washer undisturbed:


12) Install new contacts into left and right side of housing, taking care to use all new parts in the same order as old parts. Use 14mm box end wrench to tighten the nut inside the cup on outside of the starter.


13) Slide plunger spring on end of new plunger and reinstall in starter housing. Push plunger in against the spring and verify that it pushes the starter gear out the other end, and retracts when you release the plunger. Do this a few times, it's really fun.


14) Reinstall the cap and re-attach starter motor lead to "left" side of the starter (12mm). Be sure to reinstall the rubber cap over the starter motor connection. Mine was a little brittle and cracked, so I used some caulk to repair it and hold it in place. A replacement cap would be nice, but no part number is shown for this.


15) Reinstall starter on the flywheel housing. If the stud came off on the top side of the starter when you removed the 17mm nut, put the stud back in first, which will allow you to hang the starter on the stud while you re-install the 17mm nut. When you put the bottom 17mm bolt back in, be sure to include the ground cable under the bolt.


16) Re-attach battery connection to starter first (cover with rubber cap), then plug in signal connection.

17) Re-attach battery connection at battery.

18) Start 'er up!

When I first tried to start the truck, I got the same @$#&% clicking noise for about 6 tries. I sat there dumbfounded, reviewing in my mind all the steps I had taken to put everything back together exactly as they had come apart.

I began to steel myself for taking it all back apart again, and decided to give it one more turn. Music ensued as the starter kicked in and the engine fired up! I let it run a little bit to make sure the plunger had retracted properly, then turned it off and tried again 2 or 3 more times to convince myself it was really working.

So... 202K miles, rebuilt starter, took about 3.5 hours but I spent probably 45 minutes cleaning all the gunk off the thing and reassembly the starter motor (the latter an unnecessary step).

HTH...

[zcruiser]

One question remains...

There is one part in the "right" side kit that I did not use as it was not in the starter when I disassembled so didn't know what to do with it. It appears to be a paper-like insulating material that has a hole the same size as the contact bolt.



Anyone know where this should have been used?

[Zack1978]

The write up is great, however is it worth doing the job? I purchased a starter with a lifetime warr from my local foreign parts place for $129.00. I have put in a link for the company that my starter came from. I am happy and I know that I will never have to worry about a starter because of the warr.


Just my 2 cents,
Zack


http://www.pprok.com/

[lovetoski]

Originally Posted by Zack1978

The write up is great, however is it worth doing the job? I purchased a starter with a lifetime warr from my local foreign parts place for $129.00. I have put in a link for the company that my starter came from. I am happy and I know that I will never have to worry about a starter because of the warr.


Just my 2 cents,
Zack


http://www.pprok.com/

I think it depends on how comfortable you are doing the repair. The parts are cheap, and the install is easy. Key point for me is that you get to keep using a Toyota starter. Other than a tendancy to wear the contacts, they are bombproof.

Don't know anything about pprok, but most of the "lifetime" starters/alts/etc are junk. They need a lifetime warrrenty because they fail often. They are cheap, and that is a plus. But you have to be prepared to "spend" some time replacing them. The price you paid to pprok is higher than most of the auto parts chains, so maybe you've got a starter that's better than the junk I'm referring too...

[tlcruzr]

Awesome write-up! Thanks for taking the time to document your experience & taking all the pictures. I'll probably follow your lead here in the next month or so.... Joel.

[zcruiser]

Zack -

$45 in parts
2-3 hrs of not-so-hard work (gotta take it off and put it back on anyway)
Knowing your cruiser that much better.

...Priceless

[Elbert]

nice writeup z-cruiser

[Cruzerman]

I think rebuilding it is definately worth the effort over spending $130 for a rebuilt unit. When my starter had problems, I only replaced the contacts (didn't do the plunger). Entire job was a sub-$20 bill. It's a very easy job (one banana).

Additionally, on the two starters I have replaced the contacts on, it seemed that the contact on one side was way more worn than the one on the other side. I think you can see that in the picture above too. I replaced both and kept the not-so-worn contact as a spare. When the second starter was doing the clicking thing, pulled out my "spare" contact and it fixed that one.

I've had no issues with either starter since. And it's been about 8 years on one, and 6 years on the other.

[bundy18]

very nice write up
this should go into the electrical tech section

[techninja]

Originally Posted by zcruiser

One question remains...

There is one part in the "right" side kit that I did not use as it was not in the starter when I disassembled so didn't know what to do with it. It appears to be a paper-like insulating material that has a hole the same size as the contact bolt.



Anyone know where this should have been used?

It goes directly against the inside of the housing behind the contact assembly. Beveled side towards the inside of the housing.

[zcruiser]

Originally Posted by techninja

It goes directly against the inside of the housing behind the contact assembly. Beveled side towards the inside of the housing.

Ooops. It wasn't there when I took the old one apart so didn't know where to put it.

[NocalFJ60]

Thanks for the writeup and pictures.

[hillcountrycruiser]

I went the remanufactured lifetime warr crappy starter route on my 74 and have replaced it 3 times in the last 6 yrs. It's free, and only takes about 30 mins to do, but its still a hassle.

I went with a genuine toyota starter on the 60 and am glad I did.

[forestdan7]

I just finished rebuilding the starter on my 85, using this excellent thread from zcruiser and hodag.

The part numbers were right, and the pictures were extremely helpful.

The only thing I would add is wear some safety glasses to keep from getting all that oil and road crud in your eyes when you're under the starter.

My right side contact was completely fried, and I've been roll starting for a week now. Pain in the arse.

After the rebuild, following these instructions, it fired the first time. No more searching for that perfect parking spot on top of the hill.

Thanks to zcruiser and hodag, and to this forum for saving me money and letting me get to know this beast even better.

[pnwfj]

Thank your for the very helpful "how to" post zcruiser. Just completed the job - took about and hour and the starter is working much better. Thank you! Total cost $40.

[4xoddic]

FYI: When I saw the label Auto Start Quality Assured Reman, I knew I was looking at a non-Toyota starter on my new 88 FJ62. From Day 1, it didn't sound as confidence-inspiring as the original starter on my tRUSTY FJ62.

I searched & read all the starter posts, and then using them & zcruiser's XL guide, I called CDan & bought a Toyota remanufactured starter.

Looked spiffy right out of the box, but a nagging remembrance of someone's caution to check the lead wire from the magnetic switch to the starter for corrosion in addition to the other 2 bolt-on connections, prompted me to pull that nut & check before bolting it in.

Voila! Corrosion on a BRAND NEW, well REMANUFACTURED, Toyota starter. Since it did have a new rubber boot over it, someone had pulled that connection & maybe scuffed off some corrosion, but it wasn't clean. Hit it with some emery cloth (as I had all the ground & positive starter cables), dielectric grease & then bolted it in. She now starts just like her sibling.

Is there a record for the most years on an original FJ62 starter? tRUSTY's is going on 19 yrs 8 mos now.

[Wile E Coyote]

I've got a joke for ya related to this thread:
Called my local Toy dealer for a price on the above 3 parts in the opening post...
$93.89 before tax!

[Toadhopper]

Good write up!
Thanks

[gray]

Originally Posted by 4xoddic

Is there a record for the most years on an original FJ62 starter? tRUSTY's is going on 19 yrs 8 mos now.

My stock 1988 FJ62 has the original starter which makes it 20 years this month. I've owned it since new with 4 miles on the odo.

[vipergrhd]

thanks for sharing

[Sorry Dog]

I'll get to it someday but I've been living with the clicks for about a year now.

Mainly happens when it's cold and I assume it requires more power to get'er moving...


...so what's a chronic procrastinater to do?


...Take a jumper pack under the truck, unscrew the primary lead, and clip on the pack in series (black on lead and red on starter bolt terminal) so that you got 24V only on the starter. It takes me about three minutes to do it and put it back after starting.

Works every damn time and sounds like race car starter.


BTW - I know quite a few outboard racers who have to do this because of the increased compression of their motors, and the consensus is that it can reduce life but usually holds up longer than the motor (considering those motor spend most of their time at 8K+)...so I figure Denso unit to be a bit better than the merc unit so I don't worry about it...I'm actually thinking about wiring this in full time with a second batt (and after rebuild).

[soggy60]

Went to local Toyota dealership to get contact parts.
Could order; get in a few days.

BUT on-hand they carry 4 slightly different contact sets.

28226-74070 looks like the above pics for the solenoid to starter motor side.
$ 12.89

Fits & works like a champ.

Someone asked about longevity. Don't know about a 62,
but my FJ 60 (orig starter) , first contact replace : 459513 miles . . .