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Old 07-03-09, 02:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
80t0ylc
Hill & Gully Rider

 
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: ORYGUN, USA (Redmond, OR)
Posts: 923
Quote:
Originally Posted by Giulitto View Post
Since I had my bumpers installed I didn't get to see how the rear swing out was installed. Just wondering if anyone knows how to take one off and do maintenance on the bearings.

Did a search for Kaymar but nothing came up for this, just mods of the bumper.


If you've ever repacked wheel bearings, it's very similar.
Edit: Get a seal from Man-A-Fre before you remove the arm from the bumper.

1. First, remove spare from swing out arm.
2. At the pivot, remove the dust cap. That's the metal cap on top of the pivot point. Prolly the most difficult part. It takes a screw driver and hammer. Gently work screw driver in at base of cap to separate from arm with hammer to get it started. Try at several different spots - once you get it started, you'll see it move upward.
3. There should be a fair amount of grease packed under cap. On arm, with some cleanup you'll see adjustment nut with cotter pin through it. Straighten out bent end of cotter pin and remove it, pulling from looped end. Loosen adjustment nut and remove with flat washer that's underneath.
4. There's an upper bearing and a lower, just like an outer and inner on a wheel bearing setup. IIRC they're different sizes, so you can't get them mixed up. Lift off arm, being careful to notice bearing placement for re-assembly. If resistance is met, try wiggling arm or persuading with a large rubber mallet.
EDIT: 4A. To remove the lower bearing for cleaning and repack, the seal will have to be driven out and then replaced during re-assembly (Thanks Noel!) Buy ahead of time through Man-A-Fre.
5. The rest is clean up of old grease, inspect your bearings and races, repack liberally with good quality wheel bearing grease.
6. Reverse procedure for re-assembly. Make sure large flat washer is under nut and nut is oriented with split side up so you can install new cotter pin. (You can re-use old pin if in good shape.) Tighten nut tight enough to remove play in arm, but loose enough so no binding is felt in movement. Align nearest slot in nut with hole in post and install cotter pin. Bend over end of pin to retain it.
7. Check your work: Arm should swing freely from stop to stop with out play or binding. If satisfied, pack new grease in dust cap and re-install on pivot, working your way around cap with taps from hammer so it doesn't bind and seats in place.
8. Re-install spare and latch it to bumper and you should be good to go. HTH

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'94 FZJ80 w/220K+miles; FF & Disc Brake Rear Axle, ARB w/Ramsey8K, Kaymar w/spare pivot, "Redneck Enginuitive Bellypan" skid plate, 2 batts. & isolator, OME 850/863 Springs w/OME N73/N74 Nitro Shocks, SS Brakelines, OME caster kit & steering damper, CDL W/Pin 7 mod., Temp.gauge mod, Amsoil converted, F.O.R. sliders soon. Green Diamond Tires: Icelander M/T LT265/75R16-E - Tom - The battle to defeat neglect is won or lost here and now.

Last edited by 80t0ylc; 07-03-09 at 08:39 PM. Reason: Add seal detail
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