advice for removing exhaust studs at manifold?

chaka · 06-17-06, 10:56 AM

Anyone have any advice for removing studs at header/exhaust connection? They both are kind of rusty

Gumby · 06-17-06, 11:08 AM

Heat. Lots of heat.

And a stud remover.

Without a stud remover you can double nut them, thread one nut down, run another nut against that one, then turn out the bottom one, or use vise grips and destroy them.

FF LC FREAK · 06-17-06, 11:20 AM

I had a busted stud so I tried to get it out. I welded a nut on it and turned. It came right out... threads and all. I wouldn't recommend that, as it cost me some money. But now I have a nice header from $OR. I like it! I probably could have done it a lot cheaper with a heli coil, but I think like the header more.

Good luck!

alex e · 06-17-06, 11:56 AM

Here's what I did. Remove the carb. Remove entire manifold and turn upside down. Now the bolts are accessible quite easily. I slapped an extension on the air wrench and took it right off. Headers to replace the manifold anyways so I did not have to re-install yet. Going to chuck the exhaust pipe. Man that thing was fulla' black soot!

chaka · 06-17-06, 12:23 PM

I don't want to damage the manifold threads as I was hoping to reuse them. just was hoping to get the studs out. I bought replacement studs, just am hoping to avoid buying a replacement manifold.

Coolerman · 06-18-06, 07:02 AM

What ever method you use to get them out make sure to use a tap and run the threads then use a copper based anti-seize rated for exhaust work to put them back in. Will make it easy to remove them next time. Good luck!

oldIron · 06-18-06, 09:09 AM

You can also try heating them up with a torch, and once they are hot hit them with penatrating fluid, any type. you don't need to get them super hot all you want is some expansion so that they contract quickly with the penatrating fluid. Too hot and I would be afraid of cracking the manifold. Put the double nuts on first like Gumby suggests so that you have something to crank on.

I like the idea of running a tap through to clean the threads up as well.

GL

Pete

Pin_Head · 06-18-06, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chaka

I don't want to damage the manifold threads as I was hoping to reuse them.

Why not just reuse the studs then? If the threads are a little rusty, just run a die over them to chean them up. If they break, that is a different matter, but I wouldn't mess with removing them just for the sake of replacing a good stud with a new one. If they brake off just weld a nut on the remains. It is fast, easy and can be done without removing the manifold.

chaka · 06-20-06, 01:44 PM

Thanks for the advice... now anyone got advice for accessing the stud clesest to the front of the engine? it seems a little tight trying to get up there with a wrench.... or is there a particular type of socket that works best? I know I need a deep socket but in terms of extension bars and such.

chaka · 07-14-06, 02:01 PM

So I have sawz-alled the pipe as far up as i could go towards the header... but it is still to tight to get any leverage. Any tricks I should know to get better access?

thanks in advance

largenfirm · 07-14-06, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chaka

So I have sawz-alled the pipe as far up as i could go towards the header... but it is still to tight to get any leverage. Any tricks I should know to get better access?

thanks in advance

Remove left fender...

colangut · 07-14-06, 02:40 PM

It that the Green 74 that was for sale by a military doc a year or so ago?

Try a flex impact socket on a long extension.

-Stumbaugh

chaka · 07-19-06, 07:49 AM

Stumbaugh,
you hit it. same green fj40, just trying to finally get it back to working order.

chaka · 07-26-06, 10:10 AM

Ok,
So I have a progress report. I bought an impact extension bar and a deep socket set (still building my tool collection). Went to attack those nuts and was pleasantly surprised when the 1st one came off clean. BUT, the 2nd one did not. In fact it broke off. I have read a lot on these threads about ways to get it out, but I don't have a welder, so that rules that option out. I have the crappy bolt extractors, but don't want to risk that.

Now it seems I will probably have to take the manifold out. I might as well replace the gasket between the intake and exhaust. so if I am doing that anyway...should I just have the machine shop get the bolt out too?

if so, getting the manifold out is the next step. Forgive my newbieness, but I have never removed the manifold before.... so I was hoping someone could give me a play by play... or amend mine.

1. take off the air filter
2. Unhook the carb connections (and take lots of pics)
3. Remove carb
4. This is where I get shady...how many bolts... where are they... are they horizontally or vertically oriented?
5. Will it go a lot faster if someone is helping me who knows what they are doing? or is it pretty plain and simple?

Thanks again for everyone's input. As always you are a huge help.

Pin_Head · 07-26-06, 11:14 AM

I would buy a used "buzz box" (AC lincoln tombstone welder, about $100). You don't have to be a welder to get the busted studs out, you just have to be able to strike an arc and hole it for about 10 seconds. That is about what a machine shop will charge you to fool with it and you need a welder if you are going to have a cruiser. It will always be worth $100 if it is running and maybe even more than that what with the price of copper at $3 a pound.

colangut · 07-26-06, 11:38 AM

I'll second that, there is one on the DC craig's list right now.

If you can get if off the truck, someone in the area can weld it for you.

I might be able to in August, I am slammed right now.

-Stumbaugh

FF LC FREAK · 07-26-06, 09:18 PM

Quote:

1. take off the air filter
2. Unhook the carb connections (and take lots of pics)
3. Remove carb
4. This is where I get shady...how many bolts... where are they... are they horizontally or vertically oriented?
5. Will it go a lot faster if someone is helping me who knows what they are doing? or is it pretty plain and simple?

It is pretty straight forward. I was apprehensive at first, but all it took was four nuts off the carb (on my 71, not sure about a 74 but should be similar) and then the manifold is pretty much wide open. You can see everything that needs to come off. Just start unscrewing. Definitely take pics before and during the process. It will help when putting it back together.

Good luck!

colangut · 07-30-06, 02:50 PM

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/n...188111153.html

Pin_Head · 07-30-06, 04:53 PM

If you use a welder, you can get the stud out without taking the manifold off. Stick a nut over the broken stud with a couple of magnets. Get a 7018AC rod and stick it in the center of the nut until it arcs and hold it for about 5-10 seconds until metal and flux starts dripping out. Let it cool 5 min and then crank it out.