ROTW My Yoda

[rockymking]

What a great set-up you have! Fill us in on the auxilliary gas tank fuel door mod...that is a great feature! I am just tackling my 78 restoration and am always looking for new improvements along the way....the Jeep fill neck assembly has got to go before it "soils" my 40. Your skid is outstanding....I will be designing the same type set-up to guard my NV4500/non-split 4spd transfer assy. including protecting the parking brake assy.; I've already "tacoed" the disc parking brake and have gone back to the stock drum....it works better anyway. Kudos on a well thought out rig.

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by rockymking

What a great set-up you have! Fill us in on the auxilliary gas tank fuel door mod...that is a great feature! I am just tackling my 78 restoration and am always looking for new improvements along the way....the Jeep fill neck assembly has got to go before it "soils" my 40. Your skid is outstanding....I will be designing the same type set-up to guard my NV4500/non-split 4spd transfer assy. including protecting the parking brake assy.; I've already "tacoed" the disc parking brake and have gone back to the stock drum....it works better anyway. Kudos on a well thought out rig.

I'll post photos of the door (open and from the backside), filler neck, aux tank, fuel switching valve, dual filters and control switch tomorrow.

[bsevans]

Here are a group of photos of the rear tank, fuel filler, filters, fuel switching valve, tank selector and exhaust modifications. This is going to take 3 or 4 post to get all the images.

[bsevans]

Photos of the fuel switching valve and the fuel tank selector switch. Pollak Fuel Tank Selector Valves

[bsevans]

Here are some photos of the two filters, CM Filters, and the first of the rear tank. The first filter photo is for the rear tank and the second filter photo is for the factory tank, which is mounted to the same plate the fuel switching valve is mounted on. These are large racing filters that have replacable elements that come in 1 or 8 micron filtratration. Very large capacity and flow. If you look close at the third photo you will see a chrome spacer between the skid plate and the frame. This was done so the bolts could be properly tightened. Another modification I made was to the frame. I installed the A-T Series Insert, 3/8-16, from AVK which can be used with grade 8/metric class 12.9 screws due to the A-T Series high shear load capability. I think you can see how much easier it is to install and service the tank. I normally install these at my shop with a impact wrench and a field service kit for that size thread. I drive them until the impact wrench pulls the swage flush with the frame and then run a tap to clean up the threads, AVK Fasteners.

[bsevans]

Additional photos of the rear tank. FJ40 Rear Tank

[bsevans]

Photos of other items from a closer perspective. The coolant flush adapter, alternator (Mean Green) and alternator spacer.

[bsevans]

The ARB Pump and the Aux fuse panel, Centech Fuse Panels, which also shows the K&N breather for the two axles.

[bsevans]

Photos of the rear bumper. You can also see the third brake light installed on the second photo.

[camcruiser13]

slick
very slick

[bsevans]

Here are some photos of the conversion of the factory drive shaft to a CV.

[bsevans]

Up close

[bsevans]

Centech PDP-1B, Centech Fuse Panels
Dash Mount Compass Kit with custom billet aluminum mount. The thermocouple is mounted inside the front bumper and the Remote sensor for accurate compass readings is mounted on the passenger wheel well forward of the jump seat. Dash Mount Compass Kit

[Lupdog]

Hi bsevans,

Thats one sweet ride you've got there. Lotsa good practical mods that still retain that great cruiser look. If you drove past it says, "now there's a man who loves his truck!"
Nice rig!

Question about the black, padded(?) piece that runs along the bottom of the dash (just above where ya knees go!). Shows up best in post #6. Is that a factory fitting? I've never noticed one before. I've had an 82 and I now have an 84 but they don't have it. The close up of your temp read out display in #43 shows it as well and it looks like it is of the same construction as my dash cover. If it didn't come with the truck I would love some info on it.

Thanks, and keep up the good work!

[bsevans]

Those are all factory standard from 9/72-10/82. 10/82 to 84 they changed but still came from the factory with them. SOR Catalog

[bsevans]

This is made-up of an ABS external slip to internal threads (5803-2) with an ABS plug. The white part is a PVC adapter that is external slip to internal slip (4INDWVX4SD 30 Adapter). What the PVC does is give you an external OD of approximately 4.75 inches versus the Clean out OD of 4.5 inches.

[bsevans]

The part number for the 90 degree fitting that is flair by hose is 44416-34010. You need to look in your low pressure return and make sure there is a flair at the bottom of the port for this nipple to seal against.

[bsevans]

This bulkhead connector uses an o-ring to seal the opening through the bumper and the mating connector also has a waterproof seal. The factory four pin harness connector was replaced with a four pin weatherpak waterproof connector. I also ran a ground wire out the connector to ground directly to the frame. On the inside of the bumper I have used 1/4" Fully insulated Heat-Shrink Quick-Disconnect Terminals so I can remove the bulkhead connector to service the bumper. As a side note: When I went from grounding the tail light assembly through the bumper to a ground wire directly to the frame my tail lights got brigther. About the only thing I can attribute this to is the powder coating on the bumper. It was even worse on the license plate assembly. The two license plate lights would not work until I ran a ground wire for each inside the door and grounded them.

[bsevans]

The hose is a steel braided -08 Parker "Tough Cover". The centerline distance between the fittings is 15" to 15.25". I made two, and they both fit. The short one is currently in place. The fittings are 37 Deg Flared Compression Tube Fitting, Tube X Male Metric For 1/2" Tube, M18 X 1.5 straight Pipe. McMaster-Carr p/n4545K223 at a cost of $11.44 each (pg 144). The hose with two 90 degree crimp fittings installed plus two steel caps so I can remove the hose without having to remove the adapters was $35. About what you would pay at either MAF ($55) or SOR ($65). This hose is meant to carry hydraulic fluid that is above 200 degrees. The fittings from McMaster-Carr have an outer steel washer with an inner rubber o-ring that seals against the tranny and transfer fill ports.

[bsevans]

Toyota four bolt smog pump pulley from SOR with custom press on hub.

[fj40z]

Man that is one awesome ride, where did you get, or what did you put on those hinges, those things look super clean.