[bsevans]

Ever burned up an alternator diode or had a weak electrical system due to the voltage regulator or maybe even had your vehicle parked while you went hiking or to work only to come back and have a dead battery because the contacts on the regulator had welded together and drained your battery. We'll I've experienced them all. If you are still using the factory alternator you might want to get one of these. I got it at the alternator/starter motor rebuild shop. My alternator had a burned out diode and they wanted to check my voltage regulator. I took both that I owned and they were both bad. I ran this one for a number of years without incident and no ammeter gauge bounce until I stepped up to a 200 amp alternator with internal voltage regulator.
TRANSPO
IN569
12V-227

[Brian in Oregon]

Conversely, I had a vehicle (a Ford) that would burn out a transister regulator within a few hours. But the old mechanical style would last for a couple of years. Never did find out why.

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by Brian in Oregon

Conversely, I had a vehicle (a Ford) that would burn out a transister regulator within a few hours. But the old mechanical style would last for a couple of years. Never did find out why.

I hear you. This unit ran flawlessly for the 2-3 years I used it until installing the 200amp alternator. There is something to be said for not having that arcing mechanical contact. However, if it is the cause of problems in the field, a solid-state unit is not repairable but you can take your Swiss army knife and file the contacts, readjust the gap and probably have enough to make it home. Even though I'm a mechanical engineer, I'll take that solid-state device thank you.

[bsevans]

Well just for grins, I searched this part number on the web and found an electrical house that list it as available. For those interested.
http://www.romaineelectric.com/
the page that list it is here.
http://www.romaineelectric.com/TRANSPO.TXT
IN569 N/D EXT REG 14.3V

I'm not sure what the 227 designator represents - maybe the connector used

[4x4Poet]

Does that solid state VR plug into the factory harness?

Over on Pirate someone posted that they found a solid state VR at NAPA that fit FJs. I think it plugged into the factory harness.

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by 4x4Poet

Does that solid state VR plug into the factory harness?

Over on Pirate someone posted that they found a solid state VR at NAPA that fit FJs. I think it plugged into the factory harness.

That connector you see in the photo is identical to the one on the mechanical voltage regulator as far as interface to the harness is concerned. The only thing different is that some of the mechanical voltage regulators I've gone through had a clear plastic sleeve around the connector to enhance the water resistance.

[Ian Rogers]

i like

[Pin_Head]

Originally Posted by 4x4Poet

Over on Pirate someone posted that they found a solid state VR at NAPA that fit FJs. I think it plugged into the factory harness.

IIRC, it was Texican who posted about a generic Dodge SS regulator at NAPA for $15 or something like that. I imagine that you would have to swap connectors.

[Degnol]

Originally Posted by Pin_Head

IIRC, it was Texican who posted about a generic Dodge SS regulator at NAPA for $15 or something like that. I imagine that you would have to swap connectors.

That's what I used and yes you do have to change out some connectors. It did not make any difference in my needle-bounce, so maybe it is not the same as BSevans used

Ed

[Pin_Head]

Originally Posted by Degnol

That's what I used and yes you do have to change out some connectors. It did not make any difference in my needle-bounce, so maybe it is not the same as BSevans used

Ed

Maybe the regulator is not the reason for your amp needle flickering. It could also be intermittent flickering of something sinking current, or intermittent contact of the alternator field brushes.

[Degnol]

Originally Posted by Pin_Head

Maybe the regulator is not the reason for your amp needle flickering. It could also be intermittent flickering of something sinking current, or intermittent contact of the alternator field brushes.

I did have it tested at an auto electric shop, but that may be something that would not show up? Anyway, I am getting ready to swap in a newer, tested unit. Hope that makes a difference. At idle it does not flicker until I turn on anything, blinker, lights, horn, etc. Even with the "steady" pull of the headlights, the thing bounces and bangs both stops.

Ed

[ar2stp48]

Degnol, please post the results of the swap. I have the same problem on my '72. There is slight flutter of amp needle at idle, but turning on lights causes it to go crazy. Changed out regulator with the NAPA part---store here sure hadnt heard it was only $15 part though, over $40!

[Pin_Head]

It could also be a wonky ground connection between the alternator and regulator. My amp meter keeps time to my blinkers, but it hardly moves far. If your is banging on both of the bump stops you really have something there.

[CruisinGA]

I ran the chrysler solid state regulator that is in the tech links for about a year.

Alternator went out and took the reg with it. Put in another mechanical VR and didn't notice much difference between the solid state and a new mechanical.

[bsevans]

This VR was purchased 2-3 years ago at the alternator shop for under $15. I do not know how many different harness connector styles Toyota used over the life span of the FJ. This VR has the same bolt pattern and the same harness connector. It is the same shop I went to recently when I decided it was time to switch to a gear reduction starter. The rebuilt GR starter was under $90 with a core exchange that I had picked up for cheap. This GR starter was rebuilt by the same house that MAF sells for $125. I think it pays to look at local shops for the support you need. I find that on average, the local shops are more than competitive with nationwide parts stores. When I had the factory alternator go out, the local alternator shop rebuilt it replacing bearings and diodes etc, and supplying the solid-state VR for less than a rebuilt alternator was at the AutoZone, PEP Boys and of course MAF & SOR.

[PabloCruise]

Thanks for this info - I just had to replace my VR due to excessive curent drain killing my battery.

How did you establish the connections to the factory plug?

Thanks!

[PabloCruise]

Also, what year Cruiser did you swap this into?

Thanks again for this...

[bsevans]

I just got off the phone with two alternator shops here in Tucson. They both have solid state voltage regulators on the shelf that are plug compatible. They show two Transpo VR that are interchangeable - IN551 and IN569. The cost is $22. They also said that they can special order SS VR for LandCruisers back to the late 60s. So my question is, why would you not buy one that is plug compatible with a cruiser as opposed to buying one meant for another vehicle and change out the connectors with questionable results?

[PabloCruise]

I did not know they were plug n play!

Even better!

I just ASSumed that you had to splice your connector on - thanks...

What year Cruiser was your application?

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by PabloCruise

I did not know they were plug n play!

Even better!

I just ASSumed that you had to splice your connector on - thanks...

What year Cruiser was your application?

Did you not look at the photos in post #1?
I just ASSumed you could read my signature; 8/78

[PabloCruise]

Thanks man - way cool.

My 09/77 '78 calls for a different VR than your 8/78 '78...

I'll check it out!

[Ming89FJ62]

OK, I'd like to take this one step further. My two FJ55 have build dates of May 78 (Wang) and Dec 77 (Arnold). The May 78 uses the 6 wire VR which is shown in the original photo but the Dec 77 uses the 3 wire VR. Is there a SS VR for a 3 wire arrangement?

Also, can someone explain the condensor on the plug lead?

Thanks,

Harry

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by Ming89FJ62

OK, I'd like to take this one step further. My two FJ55 have build dates of May 78 (Wang) and Dec 77 (Arnold). The May 78 uses the 6 wire VR which is shown in the original photo but the Dec 77 uses the 3 wire VR. Is there a SS VR for a 3 wire arrangement?

Also, can someone explain the condensor on the plug lead?

Thanks,

Harry

I think the condenser was for the radio to reduce the line noise (static). I’ve gone through a number of mechanical VRs and not all of them had the connection for the condenser, which came with the original VR. The alternator shop said that it listed a SS VR for a number of years. You would want to take your VR into the shop so they can confirm that the SS replacement VR has the correct connector. The shop I got mine from had a wide assortment on the shelf. I got the feeling that the connector on my 8/78 VR is not unique to Landcruisers.

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by bsevans

I just got off the phone with two alternator shops here in Tucson. They both have solid state voltage regulators on the shelf that are plug compatible. They show two Transpo VR that are interchangeable - IN551 and IN569. The cost is $22. They also said that they can special order SS VR for LandCruisers back to the late 60s. So my question is, why would you not buy one that is plug compatible with a cruiser as opposed to buying one meant for another vehicle and change out the connectors with questionable results?

Ok, I've looked into this further. I found that what the shop said about the IN551 and IN569 being interchangeable was incorrect. I also found that Transpo’s website not only list the VR available but show a photo of each and the form factor and pin out of most of the connectors for each VR they offer. Not all of the VRs they offer for Toyotas are SS. Some are mechanical. They list the Toyota VR part number and the cross reference to the Transpo VR part number.
Here is how to look this up and see what is offered and whether or not it is mechanical or SS.
http://www.transpo.de/Catalog/E_cat.html
Select Manuf to Transpo on the upper left.
Then select Toyota under manufacturer
If the Toyota P/N is listed then click on the Transpo number and it will show you the VR and all the X-reference Toyota numbers. This will also let you compare your VR connector with the Transpo connector for compatibility.
If you click on IN569 you will see the SS VR pictured in post #1.

EDIT: The VRs you might want to look at are: 551, 554, 558, 567, 568, 569, 578, 589, 1218, 1225.

[Coolerman]

Bummer! They don't list an application for a Toyota 27700-40010 (ND 9702609-081) SS VR. What's in my 2/71 currently. There is no plug, the wires with ring terminals go under screws on this regulator...

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by bsevans

Ok, I've looked into this further. I found that what the shop said about the IN551 and IN569 being interchangeable was incorrect. I also found that Transpo’s website not only list the VR available but show a photo of each and the form factor and pin out of most of the connectors for each VR they offer. Not all of the VRs they offer for Toyotas are SS. Some are mechanical. They list the Toyota VR part number and the cross reference to the Transpo VR part number.
Here is how to look this up and see what is offered and whether or not it is mechanical or SS.
http://www.transpo.de/Catalog/E_cat.html
Select Manuf to Transpo on the upper left.
Then select Toyota under manufacturer
If the Toyota P/N is listed then click on the Transpo number and it will show you the VR and all the X-reference Toyota numbers. This will also let you compare your VR connector with the Transpo connector for compatibility.
If you click on IN569 you will see the SS VR pictured in post #1.

EDIT: The VRs you might want to look at are: 551, 554, 558, 567, 568, 569, 578, 589, 1218, 1225.

This is a WAY COOL thread!!!

I wish I saw it before I bought my latest reman VR from Toyota! $30 for a mech VR -

FWIW: my 09/77 FJ40 called for 27700-60100-84 VR = IN568 VR on the Transpo page.

When it says Regulation: B-Circuit does that mean this is a SS unit?

[el_diabolico]

More good info.

http://www.myblueheaven.com/fj40/tec...r_Upgrade.html

Thanks Scott!

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by PabloCruise

This is a WAY COOL thread!!!

I wish I saw it before I bought my latest reman VR from Toyota! $30 for a mech VR -

FWIW: my 09/77 FJ40 called for 27700-60100-84 VR = IN568 VR on the Transpo page.

When it says Regulation: B-Circuit does that mean this is a SS unit?

IN568 is a SS VR.

[Coolerman]

Originally Posted by el_diabolico

More good info.

http://www.myblueheaven.com/fj40/tec...r_Upgrade.html

Thanks Scott!

Sounds like that one would work for my 71. Thanks for the link!

[762fmj]

This is awsome! I found the IN569 was the one for my '80. Thanks for all the great info.