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06-02-06, 09:56 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Focus on the Journey
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 1,417
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Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks
I'm sure I'm not the only cruiser owner who has bemoaned the options available when a tank needs to be replaced. I have yet to see something offered on the various cruiser web sites that I liked or thought was worth investing in. The photos show the solution that I came up with. I took a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate and cut it to mount to the area of the factory bracket using the 3 mounting points. The tanks were purchased from JEGS and mounted to the Al plate. The washer fluid tank was modified in this way. I took two woodworking forstner bits and made a centering jig in a small piece of 2x4. I used a forstner bit that was just large enough to slip over the neck of the tank and drilled down about 3/4" to 1". I then took a 3/4" bit and drilled through the 2x4. I put the 3/4" bit into a drill press and drilled out both ends of the tank. The bottom opening now accepts a standard Toyota windshield washer pump and the top uses a test plug from McMaster-Carr. I cut the connectors off the harness and pump. I replaced them with a waterproof weathertec connector. If anyone wants more detail such as photos, process or p/n post your needs. I would be very interested in the solutions that other cruiser owners have designed.
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78 FJ40
ARB's F&R, Rear Disks, DUI HEI, 200 Amp Alt, OME 2.5, 33x10.50, PS, RE8000, Stout Rear Bumper, 4+Plus Sliders/U-Bolt Flip Kit/Tie & Relay Rods/Anti-Inversion Shackles, Dual Tanks, BTB Dash Box, Tuned Ceramic Coated Headers, Extended Axle Vents, BrakeQuip Custom Certified SS Brake & Clutch Flex Lines
ROTW My Yoda| HD Skid Plate| Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks| Toyota Pulley on GM Pump| Bypass Hose| Vapor Recovery Tank
Last edited by bsevans; 06-02-06 at 11:28 PM.
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06-02-06, 09:58 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: in the shop
Posts: 15,935
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Post up pics or any other information on this....
This is a great idea!
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06-02-06, 10:00 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ft Rucker, AL
Posts: 3,156
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Nice job. Looks good just like the rest of that truck.
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06-02-06, 11:05 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,982
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looks nice, question though on the radiator overflow, does the overflow tank pull from the bottom of the overflow tank? I used a tank like this before and it didn't work correctly as it was not pulling from the bottom of the tank and was just "pushing" constantly topping off the level of coolant and then it would eventually overflow.
Noah
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06-02-06, 11:28 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Focus on the Journey
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 1,417
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by 1973Guppie
looks nice, question though on the radiator overflow, does the overflow tank pull from the bottom of the overflow tank? I used a tank like this before and it didn't work correctly as it was not pulling from the bottom of the tank and was just "pushing" constantly topping off the level of coolant and then it would eventually overflow.
Noah
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There are two types of catch cans. One, called an overflow, has the hose from the radiator going to the top of the can - this is a one way system and can not recover fluids passed from the radiator. Yes, I know that the factory unit is setup this way; however, it has an internal tube that goes to the bottom of the can/tank allowing for recovery. The other style is a recovery can/tank that has the hose connected to the bottom of the tank which allows the coolant to be drawn back as coolant system pressure drops to the point that the radiator cap opens to allow flow back into the radiator. And yes, I really should have titled this thread “Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks”.
In all honesty, they are the same tanks that are setup two different ways. Here are two links to simlar tanks. I used the JAZ on this project.
http://www.jazproducts.com/index2.htm
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...5&autoview=sku
One thing I assumed but did not mention. A recovery tank has to be vented to atmosphere at the top inorder to function.
__________________
78 FJ40
ARB's F&R, Rear Disks, DUI HEI, 200 Amp Alt, OME 2.5, 33x10.50, PS, RE8000, Stout Rear Bumper, 4+Plus Sliders/U-Bolt Flip Kit/Tie & Relay Rods/Anti-Inversion Shackles, Dual Tanks, BTB Dash Box, Tuned Ceramic Coated Headers, Extended Axle Vents, BrakeQuip Custom Certified SS Brake & Clutch Flex Lines
ROTW My Yoda| HD Skid Plate| Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks| Toyota Pulley on GM Pump| Bypass Hose| Vapor Recovery Tank
Last edited by bsevans; 06-03-06 at 08:14 PM.
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06-02-06, 11:33 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 127
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Damn...that sure looks good under the hood.
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06-02-06, 11:41 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Focus on the Journey
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 1,417
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by jmode
Damn...that sure looks good under the hood.
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It really is more than good looks. The wall thickness of these tanks is on the order of three times that of the factory tanks and all the after market windshield washer tanks I've seen. One item I left out is that the tanks have two 1/4-20 inserts molded into a flat protrusion on the backside of each tank. That is how I mount them using SS flathead screws through the Al plate.
__________________
78 FJ40
ARB's F&R, Rear Disks, DUI HEI, 200 Amp Alt, OME 2.5, 33x10.50, PS, RE8000, Stout Rear Bumper, 4+Plus Sliders/U-Bolt Flip Kit/Tie & Relay Rods/Anti-Inversion Shackles, Dual Tanks, BTB Dash Box, Tuned Ceramic Coated Headers, Extended Axle Vents, BrakeQuip Custom Certified SS Brake & Clutch Flex Lines
ROTW My Yoda| HD Skid Plate| Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks| Toyota Pulley on GM Pump| Bypass Hose| Vapor Recovery Tank
Last edited by bsevans; 06-03-06 at 02:03 PM.
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06-02-06, 11:46 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MT
Posts: 300
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I like the no spill design. Good idea and nice work.
Could you provide a parts list? Maybe a special tools list, too? The little things always complicate such efforts.
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06-02-06, 11:59 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Focus on the Journey
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 1,417
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by 4x4Poet
I like the no spill design. Good idea and nice work.
Could you provide a parts list? Maybe a special tools list, too? The little things always complicate such efforts.
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Yes, I will put that together and post here. I'm sorry I did not document this as I was doing it. I've got some other designs, like a cold weather heater for the intake manifold for those that have headers and live in cold winter areas. Unlike that crap I've seen at MAF and SOR that use the coolant system (what a waste of money), my setup has the inside of the intake manifold, under the carb, above 250 degrees in less than 45 seconds. And it works every time.
__________________
78 FJ40
ARB's F&R, Rear Disks, DUI HEI, 200 Amp Alt, OME 2.5, 33x10.50, PS, RE8000, Stout Rear Bumper, 4+Plus Sliders/U-Bolt Flip Kit/Tie & Relay Rods/Anti-Inversion Shackles, Dual Tanks, BTB Dash Box, Tuned Ceramic Coated Headers, Extended Axle Vents, BrakeQuip Custom Certified SS Brake & Clutch Flex Lines
ROTW My Yoda| HD Skid Plate| Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks| Toyota Pulley on GM Pump| Bypass Hose| Vapor Recovery Tank
Last edited by bsevans; 06-03-06 at 02:04 PM.
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06-03-06, 09:38 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Willamette Valley-Oregon
Posts: 590
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Neat setup !!! Your description of the intake manifold heater interests me. Could you give more info please? I still have stock exhaust on my 71 FJ40, but the manifold is in poor shape. I have wanted to replace it but was concerned about heating the intake manifold. Thanks for any info you can give.
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06-03-06, 10:18 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Focus on the Journey
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 1,417
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by handcannon
Neat setup !!! Your description of the intake manifold heater interests me. Could you give more info please? I still have stock exhaust on my 71 FJ40, but the manifold is in poor shape. I have wanted to replace it but was concerned about heating the intake manifold. Thanks for any info you can give.
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I will post photos and details of the setup in the near future. I just don't have the time right now to document the detail of what is involved (both the mechanical and the circuit required). It does require a 1" aluminum plate machined to mount the heater and marry to the bottom of the intake manifold like the exhaust does. The Al plate is more involved machining wise than the coolant adapter plate you see offered.
__________________
78 FJ40
ARB's F&R, Rear Disks, DUI HEI, 200 Amp Alt, OME 2.5, 33x10.50, PS, RE8000, Stout Rear Bumper, 4+Plus Sliders/U-Bolt Flip Kit/Tie & Relay Rods/Anti-Inversion Shackles, Dual Tanks, BTB Dash Box, Tuned Ceramic Coated Headers, Extended Axle Vents, BrakeQuip Custom Certified SS Brake & Clutch Flex Lines
ROTW My Yoda| HD Skid Plate| Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks| Toyota Pulley on GM Pump| Bypass Hose| Vapor Recovery Tank
Last edited by bsevans; 06-03-06 at 02:05 PM.
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06-03-06, 07:53 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: New Hampster
Posts: 442
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I like this design very much. Since my 40 does not currently have either of them this is a great solution.
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06-03-06, 11:39 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MT
Posts: 300
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by handcannon
Neat setup !!! Your description of the intake manifold heater interests me. Could you give more info please?...
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In case you haven't seen it, bsevans started a thread on the intake man htr:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/95892-intake-manifold-heater.html
Just ignore the "As the Mud Churns" soap opera.
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06-04-06, 09:18 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Willamette Valley-Oregon
Posts: 590
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Yep, saw it, thanks. Interesting info. I am anxious to see the rest of his info, schematic, etc. Not sure yet if I'll go that route when I get around to replacing my exhaust system, but I am here on mud to learn and he has some interesting mods and some good arguments for what he did. Time will tell as I learn and compare.
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06-21-06, 04:07 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,982
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bsevans,
thanks for the tip on Jaz, just called them and picked up a recovery tank, perfect for what I need!
noah
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06-21-06, 05:02 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal - westsiiiide
Posts: 1,468
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clean man very clean - I love it when people make stuff. I feel the same way about my radi overflow container (it sucks, always has, and I have never seen anything yet I liked to replace it with). The washer fluid holder (or motor or sprayer, etc.) I do not have - and will likely never have as I just spit water out of a nalgene bottle and turn on the wipers  - but I like the idea of making my own overflow as a solution to my sucky one and might look into it.
Well HELL... speaking of nalgene bottles, I might use a Nalgene botle to do so.. now that would be trick! they are cheap, strong, and come in many colors and even have measurements on the side. also, I could use some fire extinguisher bracket/clamps for mounting as those are about the same size. stay tuned... I might have to try that this weekend. thanks for the inspiration.
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06-21-06, 05:54 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Focus on the Journey
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 1,417
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by wantatlc
clean man very clean - I love it when people make stuff. I feel the same way about my radi overflow container (it sucks, always has, and I have never seen anything yet I liked to replace it with). The washer fluid holder (or motor or sprayer, etc.) I do not have - and will likely never have as I just spit water out of a nalgene bottle and turn on the wipers  - but I like the idea of making my own overflow as a solution to my sucky one and might look into it.
Well HELL... speaking of nalgene bottles, I might use a Nalgene botle to do so.. now that would be trick! they are cheap, strong, and come in many colors and even have measurements on the side. also, I could use some fire extinguisher bracket/clamps for mounting as those are about the same size. stay tuned... I might have to try that this weekend. thanks for the inspiration.
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I'm not sure what the long term effects of hot ethylene glycol will be on a Nalgene container. Watch it for hairline cracks over time. They have tested it for 30 days with no discernable effects, but I'm not aware of any long term studies.
__________________
78 FJ40
ARB's F&R, Rear Disks, DUI HEI, 200 Amp Alt, OME 2.5, 33x10.50, PS, RE8000, Stout Rear Bumper, 4+Plus Sliders/U-Bolt Flip Kit/Tie & Relay Rods/Anti-Inversion Shackles, Dual Tanks, BTB Dash Box, Tuned Ceramic Coated Headers, Extended Axle Vents, BrakeQuip Custom Certified SS Brake & Clutch Flex Lines
ROTW My Yoda| HD Skid Plate| Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks| Toyota Pulley on GM Pump| Bypass Hose| Vapor Recovery Tank
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06-21-06, 06:07 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal - westsiiiide
Posts: 1,468
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good point. where I live, I run about a 70-30 solution year around. so not as much straight ethylene glycol... I am not sure if the study you mention was 100% or some mixture as I think more diluted the better? where did you get that data about their 30 day study? They have a pretty good section on their website concerning chemical resistance... but I did not see ethylene glycol?
UPDATE: I found it. you cannot search for it, you need to find it on their drop-down list. what you mentioned is "ethylene glycol, pure" - so I wonder if tamer results with less of a 100% pure solution they tested.
I am committed to making one to test it as I already have the donor on my work bench and some fittings. I think getting the fittings to be water tight and not leak will be my issue. My plan was to drill a hole in a lower area (as is my current over flow container) and do a copper barbed fitting with threads with 2 large rubber washers sandwhiched between a nut so that it is rubber up against the bottle and squeezed tight. I would do the same on the top overflow line on the opposite side.
I might make it and put it in the engine compartment (filled with my mixyure) and drive around for a few weeks and see how it reacts to try to mimic the scenario... but not get screwed if it fails on me,
Last edited by wantatlc; 06-21-06 at 06:21 PM.
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04-14-07, 06:14 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 6,005
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Any pics of the bottoms where the plumbing runs?
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12-07-08, 09:32 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 6,005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PabloCruise
Any pics of the bottoms where the plumbing runs?
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Checking in, wondering how this is working...
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12-07-08, 09:56 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Focus on the Journey
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 1,417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PabloCruise
Checking in, wondering how this is working...
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Both tanks work just fine. There has been no visible aging, no cracks. It looks like it did the day I installed it (except for the dust). I added an additional factory sprayer on the hood and all four streams are strong.
I will post up photos of the bottom in the next couple of days.
__________________
78 FJ40
ARB's F&R, Rear Disks, DUI HEI, 200 Amp Alt, OME 2.5, 33x10.50, PS, RE8000, Stout Rear Bumper, 4+Plus Sliders/U-Bolt Flip Kit/Tie & Relay Rods/Anti-Inversion Shackles, Dual Tanks, BTB Dash Box, Tuned Ceramic Coated Headers, Extended Axle Vents, BrakeQuip Custom Certified SS Brake & Clutch Flex Lines
ROTW My Yoda| HD Skid Plate| Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks| Toyota Pulley on GM Pump| Bypass Hose| Vapor Recovery Tank
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12-08-08, 05:14 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 6,005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsevans
Both tanks work just fine. There has been no visible aging, no cracks. It looks like it did the day I installed it (except for the dust). I added an additional factory sprayer on the hood and all four streams are strong.
I will post up photos of the bottom in the next couple of days.
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Thanks!
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05-01-09, 10:42 AM
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#23 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wild Idaho
Posts: 546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsevans
Both tanks work just fine.
I will post up photos of the bottom in the next couple of days.
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Bsevans, could you post up the bottom pics? Also maybe a few more details about installing the washer motor? I think this is the most sanitary install and solution going, and I want to copy it...remember, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!
Cheers!
__________________
78' FJ40,SBC,35's,SR,PS,Lifted SUA,Orion#2, Aussie rr, RDB.
"No electrons were harmed for this post, just re-directed a tad"
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