overflow & Windshield Washer Tanks

[bsevans]

I'm sure I'm not the only cruiser owner who has bemoaned the options available when a tank needs to be replaced. I have yet to see something offered on the various cruiser web sites that I liked or thought was worth investing in. The photos show the solution that I came up with. I took a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate and cut it to mount to the area of the factory bracket using the 3 mounting points. The tanks were purchased from JEGS and mounted to the Al plate. The washer fluid tank was modified in this way. I took two woodworking forstner bits and made a centering jig in a small piece of 2x4. I used a forstner bit that was just large enough to slip over the neck of the tank and drilled down about 3/4" to 1". I then took a 3/4" bit and drilled through the 2x4. I put the 3/4" bit into a drill press and drilled out both ends of the tank. The bottom opening now accepts a standard Toyota windshield washer pump and the top uses a test plug from McMaster-Carr. I cut the connectors off the harness and pump. I replaced them with a waterproof weathertec connector. If anyone wants more detail such as photos, process or p/n post your needs. I would be very interested in the solutions that other cruiser owners have designed.

[Poser]

Post up pics or any other information on this....


This is a great idea!

[HawkDriver]

Nice job. Looks good just like the rest of that truck.

[1973Guppie]

looks nice, question though on the radiator overflow, does the overflow tank pull from the bottom of the overflow tank? I used a tank like this before and it didn't work correctly as it was not pulling from the bottom of the tank and was just "pushing" constantly topping off the level of coolant and then it would eventually overflow.

Noah

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by 1973Guppie

looks nice, question though on the radiator overflow, does the overflow tank pull from the bottom of the overflow tank? I used a tank like this before and it didn't work correctly as it was not pulling from the bottom of the tank and was just "pushing" constantly topping off the level of coolant and then it would eventually overflow.

Noah

There are two types of catch cans. One, called an overflow, has the hose from the radiator going to the top of the can - this is a one way system and can not recover fluids passed from the radiator. Yes, I know that the factory unit is setup this way; however, it has an internal tube that goes to the bottom of the can/tank allowing for recovery. The other style is a recovery can/tank that has the hose connected to the bottom of the tank which allows the coolant to be drawn back as coolant system pressure drops to the point that the radiator cap opens to allow flow back into the radiator. And yes, I really should have titled this thread “Recovery & Windshield Washer Tanks”.
In all honesty, they are the same tanks that are setup two different ways. Here are two links to simlar tanks. I used the JAZ on this project.
http://www.jazproducts.com/index2.htm
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...5&autoview=sku

One thing I assumed but did not mention. A recovery tank has to be vented to atmosphere at the top inorder to function.

[jmode]

Damn...that sure looks good under the hood.

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by jmode

Damn...that sure looks good under the hood.

It really is more than good looks. The wall thickness of these tanks is on the order of three times that of the factory tanks and all the after market windshield washer tanks I've seen. One item I left out is that the tanks have two 1/4-20 inserts molded into a flat protrusion on the backside of each tank. That is how I mount them using SS flathead screws through the Al plate.

[4x4Poet]

I like the no spill design. Good idea and nice work.

Could you provide a parts list? Maybe a special tools list, too? The little things always complicate such efforts.

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by 4x4Poet

I like the no spill design. Good idea and nice work.

Could you provide a parts list? Maybe a special tools list, too? The little things always complicate such efforts.

Yes, I will put that together and post here. I'm sorry I did not document this as I was doing it. I've got some other designs, like a cold weather heater for the intake manifold for those that have headers and live in cold winter areas. Unlike that crap I've seen at MAF and SOR that use the coolant system (what a waste of money), my setup has the inside of the intake manifold, under the carb, above 250 degrees in less than 45 seconds. And it works every time.

[handcannon]

Neat setup !!! Your description of the intake manifold heater interests me. Could you give more info please? I still have stock exhaust on my 71 FJ40, but the manifold is in poor shape. I have wanted to replace it but was concerned about heating the intake manifold. Thanks for any info you can give.

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by handcannon

Neat setup !!! Your description of the intake manifold heater interests me. Could you give more info please? I still have stock exhaust on my 71 FJ40, but the manifold is in poor shape. I have wanted to replace it but was concerned about heating the intake manifold. Thanks for any info you can give.

I will post photos and details of the setup in the near future. I just don't have the time right now to document the detail of what is involved (both the mechanical and the circuit required). It does require a 1" aluminum plate machined to mount the heater and marry to the bottom of the intake manifold like the exhaust does. The Al plate is more involved machining wise than the coolant adapter plate you see offered.

[oldIron]

I like this design very much. Since my 40 does not currently have either of them this is a great solution.

[4x4Poet]

Originally Posted by handcannon

Neat setup !!! Your description of the intake manifold heater interests me. Could you give more info please?...

In case you haven't seen it, bsevans started a thread on the intake man htr:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/95892-intake-manifold-heater.html

Just ignore the "As the Mud Churns" soap opera.

[handcannon]

Yep, saw it, thanks. Interesting info. I am anxious to see the rest of his info, schematic, etc. Not sure yet if I'll go that route when I get around to replacing my exhaust system, but I am here on mud to learn and he has some interesting mods and some good arguments for what he did. Time will tell as I learn and compare.

[1973Guppie]

bsevans,

thanks for the tip on Jaz, just called them and picked up a recovery tank, perfect for what I need!

noah

[wantatlc]

clean man very clean - I love it when people make stuff. I feel the same way about my radi overflow container (it sucks, always has, and I have never seen anything yet I liked to replace it with). The washer fluid holder (or motor or sprayer, etc.) I do not have - and will likely never have as I just spit water out of a nalgene bottle and turn on the wipers - but I like the idea of making my own overflow as a solution to my sucky one and might look into it.

Well HELL... speaking of nalgene bottles, I might use a Nalgene botle to do so.. now that would be trick! they are cheap, strong, and come in many colors and even have measurements on the side. also, I could use some fire extinguisher bracket/clamps for mounting as those are about the same size. stay tuned... I might have to try that this weekend. thanks for the inspiration.

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by wantatlc

clean man very clean - I love it when people make stuff. I feel the same way about my radi overflow container (it sucks, always has, and I have never seen anything yet I liked to replace it with). The washer fluid holder (or motor or sprayer, etc.) I do not have - and will likely never have as I just spit water out of a nalgene bottle and turn on the wipers - but I like the idea of making my own overflow as a solution to my sucky one and might look into it.

Well HELL... speaking of nalgene bottles, I might use a Nalgene botle to do so.. now that would be trick! they are cheap, strong, and come in many colors and even have measurements on the side. also, I could use some fire extinguisher bracket/clamps for mounting as those are about the same size. stay tuned... I might have to try that this weekend. thanks for the inspiration.

I'm not sure what the long term effects of hot ethylene glycol will be on a Nalgene container. Watch it for hairline cracks over time. They have tested it for 30 days with no discernable effects, but I'm not aware of any long term studies.

[wantatlc]

good point. where I live, I run about a 70-30 solution year around. so not as much straight ethylene glycol... I am not sure if the study you mention was 100% or some mixture as I think more diluted the better? where did you get that data about their 30 day study? They have a pretty good section on their website concerning chemical resistance... but I did not see ethylene glycol?

UPDATE: I found it. you cannot search for it, you need to find it on their drop-down list. what you mentioned is "ethylene glycol, pure" - so I wonder if tamer results with less of a 100% pure solution they tested.

I am committed to making one to test it as I already have the donor on my work bench and some fittings. I think getting the fittings to be water tight and not leak will be my issue. My plan was to drill a hole in a lower area (as is my current over flow container) and do a copper barbed fitting with threads with 2 large rubber washers sandwhiched between a nut so that it is rubber up against the bottle and squeezed tight. I would do the same on the top overflow line on the opposite side.

I might make it and put it in the engine compartment (filled with my mixyure) and drive around for a few weeks and see how it reacts to try to mimic the scenario... but not get screwed if it fails on me,

[PabloCruise]

Any pics of the bottoms where the plumbing runs?