[Pinion]

I have a question that has been stumping me for a while. I dont know why, but Im confused as its been a while since I have dealt with electrical stuff.

I have installed two new circuit banks. One will be dedicated to a switched circuit which is color coded with one color wire, and the other is a constant circuit color coded with another color.

I realize some of that was extraneous info, but I thought it was a cool idea nontheless.

My question is, I want to have direct electrical access to power with these two banks with nothing running through the stock wiring. Where the deuce do I hook the circuit to direct switched power?

For the constant on, I have one heavier gauge wire set directly to the output of the alternator. I believe it was the "B" post. From that post I am going directly to the starter and also to the battery. Is that correct? Feels like it.

Where do I hook up the direct switched power supply? Its driving me nuts.

[Coolerman]

Hell-o you got me confused to!
First what are circuit banks? Fuse blocks?
For switched power use the stock fuse block switched section. If you need higher power then run a relay. Hook it up as follows. (numbers are standard relay #'s)
85 to ground
86 to switched ignition source like stock fuse panel or +side of coil.
30 to battery or back of alternator or starter. Fuse this lead!
87 to circuit you want powered when ignition on.

Is that what you are after?

[Pin_Head]

Originally Posted by Pinion

My question is, I want to have direct electrical access to power with these two banks with nothing running through the stock wiring. Where the deuce do I hook the circuit to direct switched power?

For the constant on, I have one heavier gauge wire set directly to the output of the alternator. I believe it was the "B" post. From that post I am going directly to the starter and also to the battery. Is that correct? Feels like it.

Where do I hook up the direct switched power supply? Its driving me nuts.

Not sure I understand either and I am assuming that your wiring is stock.

It isn't clear why you would have to have the new circuits completely separate from the stock wiring, but it you really need to then they will have to be powered by a new wire to the battery. For the switched circuit, you can use a relay that is controlled by the ignition on side of the ignition switch as coolerman suggested.

I can't imagine why you would run a new wire from your alternator to the starter and battery as this is redundant with the existing wire and will disable your amp meter. If you need to power a new fuse block that is under the dash it would be cleaner to connect the power feed to to the - side of the amp meter which is the main distribution point for the rest of the cruiser and your amp meter will work correctly.

[dfmorse]

Pinion;

This might give u some ideas. I have a single distribution block; 4 terms that are 12volts hot off the battery and 4 terms that come from a tap into the SWITCHED lead off the ignition switch. The right front fender is not in these pics because of rust repair.


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http://forum.ih8mud.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

[DSRTRDR]

Originally Posted by Pin_Head

but if you really need to then they will have to be powered by a new wire to the battery.

That's how the auxiliary fuse block in my cruiser is powered.

The reason you might want to do this is to extend the number of fused circuits over what the OEM block allows - I find the auxiliary fuse block nifty to have for all kinds of accessories, the only downside is, mine is full already

[Pinion]

Sorry for any confusion.

I was talking of two new sets of aux. fuse blocks. I want them totally separate from the factory wiring.

I am not running my ammeter right now, but that seems like a better way to go.

[Coolerman]

Ah! Ok well in that case you can use a large fuse or circuit breaker to feed one bank directly off the battery and the fused relay idea to feed the 'switched' bank. If you are looking for a source for wiring check out www.waytekwire.com for 95% of what you will need. For the fuse blocks check out www.bluesea.com for waterproof fuse panels.

[camcruiser13]

straight to the battery, just be sure you dont have anything shorts or anything that will run to drain the battery.

[Pinion]

So, to hook up the ammeter, I run a heavy gauge wire to the ammeter from the alternator, then back to the battery?

Its been a LONG time since I worked with electrical stuff. I have been putting it off for over a year now on this 40 as it is.

[Pin_Head]

Originally Posted by Pinion

So, to hook up the ammeter, I run a heavy gauge wire to the ammeter from the alternator, then back to the battery?

This would only indicate how much current the alternator is putting out. This is better than nothing, but not by much.

With the OEM wiring, the amp meter is the only thing between the battery and the rest of the truck (besides the starter motor). This way it reads all current in and out of the battery. When the needle swings to the right, it indicates that current is going into the battery and that the battery is charging. When the meter reads zero in the middle, there is no current going into the battery because it is fully charged and the alternator is keeping up with demand. When the meter reads to the left, the battery is discharging and the alternator is not keeping up. This is bad if goes on for long.

If you wire stuff that consumes power directly to the battery (which is what you want to do since you want to bypass the stock wiring, right?), then the current from the alternator will go through the meter to the battery to feed these circuits. If these circuits are draining the battery, your amp meter won't know, since they bypass the amp meter. If you wire things directly to your battery you might as well eliminate the amp meter because it won't read right.

[dfmorse]

So, to hook up the ammeter, I run a heavy gauge wire to the ammeter from the alternator, then back to the battery?

Its been a LONG time since I worked with electrical stuff. I have been putting it off for over a year now on this 40 as it is.

Yes, that's what to do. According to the Haynes Manual #313, page 215. Use #10 wire and appropriate terminals. U can put a 6 inch, #14 wire in series if u want a FuseLink. On the back of the ammeter there should be a shunt that will handle about 30-40 amps. U are putting the ammeter in series with the alternator (B) terminal and the positive battery post.

Be sure the engine is grounded to the frame; and the firewall and the right front fender.

Good luck and let us know if it blows up!

...

[Pinion]

Yep! I figure that the factory 79 wiring in my 72 will be fine for what it does..turn signals, brake lights, horn, etc. Anything I put in, I want to have new juice.

That is the stuff I want to keep track of. Eventually I will go to a GM alt. that will provide whatever I need. Im definitely looking ahead here.

[DSRTRDR]

Originally Posted by Pinion

Eventually I will go to a GM alt. that will provide whatever I need. Im definitely looking ahead here.

Then, there is not much use to hook up the '72 OEM ammeter anyway, it's only rated for current up to 30amps; I take it the GM alternator will put out more

[Pinion]

Oh yeah. Forgot about that.