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03-22-06, 11:46 PM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Site Addict
Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 1,756
| NON-USA $Spector carb?????? Working on getting to Coal Miners Classic I NEED DESMOG HELP!!!
I'm working on my 78' "F-junker", Many parts have been aquired since I bought it in Catlett VA a little over a year ago.
I just put on a new pan seal for my 79' engine, h20 pump is next, followed by a second rear main (f-ed up on the first attempt), I should have out it in when I had the pan off but didn't know the torque specs for the rear main journals.
The engine came from Gary in Pottsville PA area. It looked fairly clean inside and is supposed to have around 56k miles.
I'm picking up 33" tires tomorrow in VA for 150 bucks not bad for a set of 4. we'll see haow they look first.
PROBLEMS:
Smog pump and rail is gone (plugged), too much crap on this damn thing!! I don't need to worry about emissions and nor do I really care. I ordered a set of FSM's from Bill Dorry and they should be here tomorrow.
I don't want this crap unless it is required to make the engine run and run smoothly. Temp sensors and couple of vacuum switches and VAC advance I can deal with.
All of the stuff on tech lines is vaque at best... Sorry guys (IMHO). They only simple way I know of dealing with this is a NON USA Spec carb from $pector.
$330 beans and only requires a vacuum advance disty. I've got that times 3.
So what's the deal can I fix my original USA carb to run well without all 50 hoses and that MF computer/vac module?
I need some educated and more importantly experienced folks to help me out with this. I would be willing to post any and all imformation along with pictures to help others in the future deal with this problem. I think I could work it out myself eventually but at what price? Hopefully not my engine! I'd rather learn from someone's experience and mistakes than my own trial and error. I'm not to proud to admit I make some kind of little mistake everyday. Generally when I come home after work!! Thanks all for your help and input.
BTW, how do you post larger sized pics here? do you donate or something? |
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03-23-06, 12:21 AM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,333
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by F-junker BTW, how do you post larger sized pics here? do you donate or something? | BEEN HERE?
As far as your specific engine is concerned, it would be best for you to post up some pictures of what you have, so that we can all look at and talk about the same pieces/parts....
It is REALLY not as big of a deal as you think....
Get your star, and start posting pics.
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03-23-06, 01:19 AM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Site Addict
Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 1,756
| sounds good thanks poser. |
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03-23-06, 05:11 AM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 112
| carb f junker you have a pm |
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03-23-06, 10:43 AM
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#5 (permalink)
| | KC6ZWY
Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 864
| I have a '77 which the PO installed a non-USA carb on in addition to an older (not sure how old) distributor both of which he bought from SOR. I absolutely love the set-up. All of the smog stuff has been taken off which, for the moment, is a good thing. If the government, in my neck of the woods, ever starts requiring a sniff and visusal check of smog equipment I could be in real trouble. Hopefully, I'd miss such testing due to the sheer age of my truck.
I say go for it if you don't have to worry about smog issues. I'd also replace the dizzy with an earlier non-usa one. I don't think that you'll be disappointed with the result.
Have fun!
__________________ Doug
Olympia WA 1977 FJ40
1968 R60/2 W/Steib S350
1980 CT110
1984 R100ST |
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03-23-06, 02:11 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Cruiser Curmudgeon
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lancaster, Ohio, USA
Posts: 4,537
| If the truck still has the 1978 or 1979 dissy and ignitor, I'd recommend keeping that. Going from waterproof, fully electronic, vacuum advance dissy to a 1965 points dissy is a step backwards in reliability and performance.
If you have a 79 carb now, it would be better to upgrade to an earlier model or a non-US type. If the truck currently has a 1978 carb, the non-US is practically identical.
There are a few extra vac fittings on the '78 US carb, but they just get capped off.
Vac from carb port to dissy advance, and from manifold to choke breaker is all that's required.
HTH
__________________ Thanks,
Jim C.
TLC Performance
Underhood Janitor, cleaning up other people's  since 1988. |
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03-23-06, 08:55 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Site Addict
Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 1,756
| I have what I believe to be a 78' or earlier carb. It does not have that long flat module on top of the carb that controls the EGR port and the Advancer port also connected to the VSV, as the the existing carb on the engine does.
Can I remove the majority of all this crap and have only a vacuum advance?
Can this carb be converted to a NON-USA carb spec? I'll shoot some pics of the carb on my transplant engine and the carb I bought a few months ago.
I'm assuming I can plug up the majority of all the stuff on the mainfold and the head? |
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03-23-06, 09:10 PM
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#8 (permalink)
| | Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: in the shop
Posts: 16,333
| do you have ANY pics of your engine/carb/etc?
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03-23-06, 09:21 PM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Site Addict
Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 1,756
| Not as of this moment But I will take a few tomorrow. I'm putting in a new rear main (second time), and then the clutch kit. 1st I need to fish out that old shifter pin. I bought a pin kit from $or and a new top gasket, so I hope I'll be in good shape. next up tires and wheels M&B, then a new red top. Hopefully, with a little help on carb crap; I can fire this bitch up and drive it on Sunday. WOW, that would be like magic man!!! |
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03-29-06, 10:06 PM
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#10 (permalink)
| | Site Addict
Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 1,756
| No magic last weekend just plenty of rusted and broken bolts, as well as knuckles. Tranny is ready with new pins, the old oin was inside just as PO told me. Looks as though he never even tried to peen it over! Duh.
I had to brush and rust proof the frame rails, worst of all was getting those damn rear mounting bolts out. I broke a nut spliter and popped a finger tip with a cold chisel. finally they are gone.
I will take a few pics on Saturday of everything then hopefully drop the shite in.
Carb stuff is probably last thing one menu. The gal tells me I have to take one day off this weekend. She says that I killing myself and I tend to agree. |
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03-30-06, 12:06 AM
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#11 (permalink)
| | elder statesman
Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: so cal, going 45
Posts: 8,619
| You could also do a thread search for pics of other carbs and point to one that looks like yours.
Best
Mark A.
__________________ A carbureted man in a fuel injected world.
65SWB45, 64LWB45, 68FJ40, 69FJ40, 72VJ40, 76HJ45[gone],84FJ60[gone], 76K5, 73Sub454, 97Sub5.7, 2002 Trailblazer
TLCA member, The White Trash Of The Elwood chapter
my website: http://www.marksoffroad.net IT'S FASTER if you CALL ME! |
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03-30-06, 06:25 AM
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#12 (permalink)
| | Forum Regular
Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Waterloo, Ia
Posts: 49
| I am currently having distributor problems and after reading many posts from everyone, called Dan at American Toyota. That was the best call I've made in years!!! He gave me some quotes on new vac adv distributor that were a third of anyone I could find. Call CDan, you won't be disappointed. |
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