[TEQ]

No, they are not painted...yet.

I plan on mounting everything, getting the steering/alignment adjusted and then painting them per your suggestion. I will then fill them with grease.

[AATLAS1X]

Your kicking ass!


If at all possible paint before you install, you went to all that trouble powder coating and any paint on it would drive me crazy! You would find me at your garage door begging to clean over spray!

[TEQ]

I am getting so close to getting this front end back together I can taste it! And it tastes like de-greaser dripping on me as I clean the face of my front 3rd member in preparation for some FIPG and a gasket!

In typical noob fashion I was walking up the hill to my garage going over in my head how I was going to get the right side knuckle done tonight. I suddenly realized that if I did it as planned I would soon find that I would have a very difficult time getting my front 3rd member on... Duh. I could have put my front 3rd on way back when I put the rear on... WTF was I waiting for?

So anyway, I get on my back, clean the faces real well (dripping the aformentioned de-greaser), apply a super thin layer of FIPG, put on my paper gasket and heft the 3rd into place. A few turns of a socket wrench followed by appropriate applicaiton of torque (35lb/ft according to Haynes...suprisingly the FSM doesn't seem to specify the torque for this anywhere I could find) and a major part of the vehicle is back on it!!! An upgrade too! (3.73 diffs).

Then I set about my knuckles. But I remembered I hadn't installed my new studs in my hubs yet. That took a fair amount of time and it's time to go nitey-nite. So I went over all my instructions and parts one more time and I'm now 100% sure that next time I have a few hours I will have at least one of my front hubs/knuckles back together!

[TEQ]

Got the right knuckle on.

Question: The FSM says the bearing pre-load on the knuckle should be between 4 and 8 lbs. After torquing the bearing cap bolts to about 75 ft/lbs my new fish scale indicates a pre-load of only about 2.5 lbs.

My Haynes manual says that if the bearing pre-load is less than 3.9lbs I should add an equal amount of shim top and bottom to get it w/in spec or I will get excessive wear and shake during cornering.

Does this jive with everyone? My rebuild kit came with additional shims... should i take the trouble of taking the caps off again and putting the shims in?

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by TEQ

My Haynes manual says that if the bearing pre-load is less than 3.9lbs I should add an equal amount of shim top and bottom to get it w/in spec or I will get excessive wear and shake during cornering.

Reading elsewhere (http://forum.ih8mud.com/1032753-post.html I see that Poser says that the shims work as follows:

Top: used to adjust pre-load
Bottom: used to adjust alignment of the knuckle with the axle centerline.

This conflicts with the Haynes manual which says "If necessary, bearing preload can be adjusted by ading orsubtracking the same amont of shims from both the upper and lower knuckle bearings."

And thinking about it more it is not clear to me whether I should be ADDING or REMOVING shims. Instinctively it seems like adding shims would REDUCE pre-load because the bearing cap would not be inserted as far into the bearing.

I'm gong to start on my left knuckle now...hopefully someone can provide me with some definitive answers before I get too far...

[TEQ]

More data:

There are currently two top shims @ 1mm and .5mm (total 1.5mm)

I am assuming I need to remove some thickness to increase preload.

If I'm currently at 2.5 lbs of pre-load and I need to get between 4 and 8 lbs, how much shim should I remove? .5mm? 1mm?

I have a few extra new cone washers (they get mucked up pretty good when I remove them and I ordered too many) so experimenting is not out of the question, but I'd rather get it right the first time... anyone with experience in this area?

[Mr. Toad]

If you can't get the proper pre-load using the shims that you removed (assuming you kept them segregated and re-installed them in the same locations from which they were removed), you may have to use the SST knuckle alignment tool. That'll get your knuckle centered and pre-loaded.

I would say that since you're re-installing the knuckles on the same axle housings they came off of you could probably achieve a similar result to the SST method by adding/removing shims equally on the top and bottom. However, from your other posts, it looks like CCOT took some liberties with the restoration of this truck; i.e. those might not be the same knuckles that Toyota put on that axle housing.

Re: The molybdenum disulphide grease question on the previous page: Molybdenum disulphide grease has some different properties than high-speed wheel bearing grease. Wheel bearing grease goes in the HUB, moly grease goes in the KNUCKLE (including the birf joint). That said, however, I doubt that it'd really hurt anything if you packed the birf and knuckle with wheel bearing grease instead of moly . . .

[TEQ]

I went ahead and removed .5mm worth of shim from the top, torqued it down and...

~8lbs of pre-load. Perfect!

I am just going to assume that the bottom shims created the correct placement relative to the axle centerline and at worst my removing .5mm from the top at worst moved the centerline up .25mm. If CCOT fucked up and the alignment was off before I took it apart it's not going to be any worse now (and I have no reason to believe it they did it incorrectly). Without a SST there's nothing more I could do and I can't wait to find someone local who has one I can borrow.

I also went and bought some moly fortified grease and cleaned the little bit of high-temp grease I had put on the bearings off (very carefully to get it all because i know mixing grease is a bad idea).




The left side, with the same set of shims that were on it originally, came out with a pre-load of just above 4lbs. I'm going to call it good too....



While torquing the left side one of the (new!) studs on the bottom stripped. Son of a bitch! Thankfully I was able to back it out while in place and had another spare... I backed off my torque a bit (I was doing 74lb/ft) when I put it back on. The FSM says 62-79 lb/ft. I guess in the future I'll go for the lower end of what Toyota recommends vs. the higher end...



On to the hubs...

[krzyabncanuck]

I am not perfect here by any means but i like other people think that your pump is off a 60. I rebuilt mine a few years ago and it looked almost exactly like that. The only difference i see is the one hose fitting part.

[Poser]

Originally Posted by TEQ

While torquing the left side one of the (new!) studs on the bottom stripped. I backed off my torque a bit (I was doing 74lb/ft) when I put it back on. The FSM says 62-79 lb/ft. I guess in the future I'll go for the lower end of what Toyota recommends vs. the higher end...

That is only 20 ft-lbs OVER what the Toyota FSM states is the torque for the 11mm stud, drum brake and pre 1979 disc housings have 11mm studs...(43-54 ft-lb)


12mm studs are 62-79 ft-lbs.....those are found on 1979 and later 40/55/60 and mini trucks...

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by Poser

That is only 20 ft-lbs OVER what the Toyota FSM states is the torque for the 11mm stud, drum brake and pre 1979 disc housings have 11mm studs...(43-54 ft-lb)


12mm studs are 62-79 ft-lbs.....those are found on 1979 and later 40/55/60 and mini trucks...

Well that certainly explains how I stripped it. Thank God I didn't strip more than one. FWIW, below is what I was going by.

Should I loosen them up?

Also, Poser: Do you think my knuckles will be centered OK given what I did?

[Poser]

A fastener that is over-torqued has been stretched beyond the designed service parameters, and as you found out, can fail.


I would back them all off, check the condition of the threads on the studs and nuts, replace anything that looks even a bit marginal and then install them with the proper torque setting, and red locktite on all studs and nuts…..but that is just me.



Who knows, you might be fine for a long time with them that way.

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by Poser

A fastener that is over-torqued has been stretched beyond the designed service parameters, and as you found out, can fail.

I would back them all off, check the condition of the threads on the studs and nuts, replace anything that looks even a bit marginal and then install them with the proper torque setting, and red locktite on all studs and nuts…..but that is just me.

Who knows, you might be fine for a long time with them that way.

Thanks Poser. I feel like an idiot. Sigh.

The good news is I accidentally ordered twice as many 11mm nuts, washers, & studs as I needed by accident. I also have a tube of locktite red here.

I pulled a bunch of nuts off and they don't look bad. I'm going to replace several of the studs that I didn't originally replace and all of the nuts. I will also use locktite red as you advice.

[TEQ]

In the end I had enough studs & nuts to replace almost all of them. Back on track now...

[TEQ]

My right hub is DONE!

After my over-torquing escipade I grabbed my right axle and realized it was packed with the high-temp grease....arrrgg...I pulled it apart (Bull told me to order an extra set of snap clips...I'm glad I listened) and re-packed it with the moly grease.

Getting the inner shaft into the birf is a PITA. The snap ring is really tough to get just right and when I did it before I was able to get my son to help me. But it was too late at night and I was all alone this time. So i got creative. The hard part is being able to provide enough downward force on the shaft while using a screwdriver to finagle the clip into the slot. I discovered that by draping a shop rag over the end of the axle shaft i could get the leverage I needed. The pic below shows how I did this. Useful tip for someone else attepting this?



Then I stuffed the axle into the axle housing, got the spines to seat in the differential, and packed the knuckle with grease (filling it 3/4 of the volume per the FSM).



Getting the gasket, brake shield, and outer oil seal on was a bit tricky... the axle shaft kept wanting to point down and everything would slide off... I needed 3 hands! I discoverd that if I stuck a flat blade screw dirver inbetween the axle shaft and the spindle I could get everything to stay put long enough for me to get all the holes lined up and the first bolt in. From there it was easy.



At first I didn't know which way the flanges on the inner oil seal covers went, but once I started it became obvious.



The right side is basically done. I've got to get the brake caliper back on and the brake lines hooked up but the most important thing is I can easily get a wheel on here so I can roll the rig out of the garage next weekend so we can paint. Tomorrow I'll tackle the left hub...it should go much quicker.

Look at them shiny new warn hubs...

[AATLAS1X]

Looks good!

Remember to adjust the "lock to lock" bolts. and install the tie rod clamps...

Also do you have the carb issue resolved?

I have a 65k mile 78 in my garage and can get you all the pics you need or want.

Shane

[Poser]

Originally Posted by TEQ

Getting the inner shaft into the birf is a PITA. The snap ring is really tough to get just right and when I did it before I was able to get my son to help me. But it was too late at night and I was all alone this time. So i got creative. The hard part is being able to provide enough downward force on the shaft while using a screwdriver to finagle the clip into the slot. I discovered that by draping a shop rag over the end of the axle shaft i could get the leverage I needed. The pic below shows how I did this. Useful tip for someone else attepting this?

Narrow hose clamp keeping the snap ring in the groove until the axle has dropped into the fing birf....then take the hose clamp off.

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by Poser

Narrow hose clamp keeping the snap ring in the groove until the axle has dropped into the fing birf....then take the hose clamp off.

Nice! Next time.

[TEQ]

Left hub DONE!

It is amazing how much smoothly and quickly things go once you've already dont it once. It's also nice having a helper. That's my 10 year old son, CJ being useful.

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by AATLAS1X

Looks good!
Also do you have the carb issue resolved?

Thanks Shane!

I'm not going to deal with the carb until later. It works fine as is...first I want to just get it back on the road so I can enjoy driving it a bit!

[TEQ]

Dove into my calipers this morning and I have a few questions. Never done brakes before so....

1) The old pads have thin metal backing plates on them. My new ones do not. Am I supposed to move the plates from the old ones and somehow glue them to the new ones? Or are the new ones good to go?



I'm super tempted to get my calipers blasted and powder coated. They're going to look yucky next to my shiny brake shields. Question: Powder coating on calipers is cool, right? I mean that *is* the way to paint capliers?



Last quesiton: I had assumed all I needed was new pads. I also got new pins and anti-rattle springs with them. But I did not order a new set of caliper cylinders... 4 of the 8 cylinders I took out are rusted up pretty good; I assume it's worth while replacing them?

[AATLAS1X]

Originally Posted by TEQ

Last quesiton: I had assumed all I needed was new pads. I also got new pins and anti-rattle springs with them. But I did not order a new set of caliper cylinders... 4 of the 8 cylinders I took out are rusted up pretty good; I assume it's worth while replacing them?

Paint is good, high temp caliper in gloss black is easy clean.

Or get the MONSTER calipers from www.tlc4x4.com


Im the anal safety guy, replace the calipers with NEW OE rebuilds from Toyota....

[TEQ]

Could someone please go measure their drag link bar for me? Measure from one end of the bar to the other (don't measure the pitman connector or the tie rod end). Mine is 30.5" long.

[AATLAS1X]

Did you swap it with the other? I think there is only 1 or 2 inches between them....Sorry at work.........


How cool is that........Your cruiser is so clean that your son is working in a white shirt.

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by TEQ

Could someone please go measure their drag link bar for me? Measure from one end of the bar to the other (don't measure the pitman connector or the tie rod end). Mine is 30.5" long.

I would, but I ditched mine when I went PS - sorry!

[AATLAS1X]

Relay is 29 7/8 ish (she says)

[Leaping Deer]

[
I'm super tempted to get my calipers blasted and powder coated. They're going to look yucky next to my shiny brake shields. Question: Powder coating on calipers is cool, right? I mean that *is* the way to paint capliers?]

I would think that powder coating a caliper would be more trouble than its worth. There are seals which would probably melt when they put them in the oven. High temp paint would work the best.

Nice to seem someone taking one a job like this will little experince. You are doing the right thing by asking questions and following the FSM. Good luck and that is one heck of a nice cruiser.

[corsair23]

Originally Posted by TEQ

My longest pole right now is my PS pump. I can't find a replacement because I can't figure out what model & year the one I have came from. The bracket is custom, apparently fabricated by CCOT when they restored this rig in '94.

I will buy a Sliver Star for the first person to correctly identify the model and year of this PS pump.

To win I have to be able to source a replacement based on the information you give me.

Pictures of the pump and bracket below.

Boy that looks SOOOO much like a '82-'88 FJ60 pump...Saw this one on ebay and I thought I had won meself a silver star!! Sooooo close!

http://tinyurl.com/gkgw7

[John Smith]

Do yourself a favor and buy some new/rebuilt calipers.

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by John Smith

Do yourself a favor and buy some new/rebuilt calipers.

Why?