[PabloCruise]

At some point you could send the distributor to Jim Chenoweth for a rebuild, and probably work out a swap with the '75 cab for a '78...

[TEQ]

After 3 weeks of driving I really needed to get the oil leaks fixed. It was making a mess of our driveway, and my wife was getting annoyed. So I parked her in the garage, jacked her up, and went at it. Even though I had cleaned the underside, it was already a mess of oil again. I could tell it was leaking from at least

- The oil pan
- The rear diff cover
- The front diff cover
- And probably the t-case/e-brake

My plan was to take care of the oil pan first, drive it some more and see if I could pin down where else it was leaking. I had ordered a new gasket from SOR and I figured it would take me a few hours...



After pulling the front wheels (not strictly necessary, but I knew it would give me more light) I noted my knuckles were seeping a bit, particularly on the left side. No biggie, but noted for future reference...



I also discovered that to take the oil pan off I had to take the clutch cover off. So that's what a clutch looks like.



Note to noobs draining oil: Buy a large oil catcher and several 5 gallon plastic pails with lids (Home Depot) and lots and lots of paper shop towels. You will spill oil and cleaning it up with rags will not endear you to your spouse.

I then removed all of the bolts holding the pan in place and pulled on it, kinda expecting it to just drop down. No joy. It was not coming off easily.

After consulting with Mud (thank you Poser) I went at the gasket hard with a broad flat screwdriver and crowbar. I was initially careful about not bending the pan, but then I realized I was going to dump the pan anyway and replace it given the general feeling that the spot welds for the skid plate give up over time. I had no way of knowing whether my pan was really leaking through these welds, but better safe than sorry...

Once I got penetration in between the gasket and the pan, I was able to wedge the pan free and it came out nicely.



Below you can see the cork gasket. It's pretty obvious where oil was seeping under it and where it wasn't.



What isn't obvious from this picture is how stuck the gasket was to the block...

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by PabloCruise

At some point you could send the distributor to Jim Chenoweth for a rebuild, and probably work out a swap with the '75 cab for a '78...

I already have a line on a '78 carb... just waiting for its current owner to get to work and desmog his rig.

[TEQ]

Getting that oil pan gasket off was really, really hard work. The flat part wasn't too bad, but the parts in the arch were a bitch. I'd work for an hour or so and then need to do something else.

So while taking a break from the gasket...I knew the rear diff was leaking from both gaskets (pretty badly) and the front was leaking just a bit. I figured...dive in. So I pulled the rear diff cover after draining the oil.



This is when I realized I needed to remove the rear axles to remove the 3rd member (and I also learned that it's called a 3rd member because the crankcase is 1st and the tranny is 2nd). Getting the rear axles off was a snap.




Getting the 3rd member off was easy too. The FSM was clear and somewhere on Mud I read that a few rubber mallet whacks on the 3rd member would knock it loose. I had also read that it was darn heavy and to be prepared for that. I'm glad I read that.



Some of you have already seen my thread on this, but to summarize:

• One of the side gears had a massive chip missing from a tooth. I found this tooth in the bottom of the axle casing.
• The 3rd member cover had been welded and the crack through to the inside was deep.

The 3rd member really needs to be replaced. I also figured out at this point that replacing the front diff seal would require removing the front axles...this would require removing the front hubs and knucles. Wow.

This put me at a key decision point: Patch it back together with just a new side gear, ignore the weld in the 3rd, ignore the front diff leak, and be back on the road in a few days. OR, go big and fix it all.

Next....will Charlie Go Big or Go Home?

[TEQ]

At this point I knew the rig was cosmetically sound. The body looks fantastic from 10 feet away. From 3 feet away the paint is actually pretty bad in some spots (some rattle can touch up here and there), but it looks nice.

The interior is fantastic. The only thing wrong there is the rear heater fan doesn't spin and I want a tuffy box.

I had also decided that even though the 75 carb and emissions stuff wasn't "right" it worked very well and it was just the purist in me that wanted them corrected.

So clearly my focus needs to be on the mechanicals. I created a list of things I needed to do, and last weekend I began working through that list in earnest. My goal is to have all of these mechanical things fixed by the end of May. I can only really work on the rig at night and sometimes on the weekends (family is my highest priority), so while this might sound like a long time for the list of things here, for me it seems pretty realistic.

I was able to find a set of 3.73 3rds from a '79 (thanks Yoda!). One casing is pretty rusted, but I believe it will clean up nicely. This will be mainly a daily driver, so the 3.73 gearing should work nicely for me.



Here's my list in the rough order I will attack:

1. Tear down front hubs/knuckles (done)
2. Remove front 3rd member (done)
3. Finish removing oil pan gasket (done!!!!)
4. Remove old gasket material from diff covers (done)
5. Remove front steering components (tie rod, relay rod, etc...) (done)
6. Remove LF Fender (to access PS box) (done)
7. Remove old coolant hoses (done. Thanks Bull).
8. Clean, de-rust, and paint: 3rd members, steering components, knuckles...
9. Replace PS box (leaking badly)
10. Replace PS hoses
11. Rebuild hubs and knuckles
12. Replace rear drum pads
13. Replace front disc pads
14. Drop Tranny/Tcase
15. Fix Tranny/Tcase seals, rebuild as needed
16. Rebuild parking brake
17. Replace clutch, install new clutch fork boot
18. Replace rear main seal
19. Install 3.73 3rds with new gaskets & nuts.
20. Install 2.5" Lift Kit. OME Springs, Shocks, Shackles, etc…
21. Replace Tie rod and drag link ends
22. Rebuild center arm
23. Replace stabilizer (got a new one from Bull)
24. Replace Tie Rod and Relay Rod (both bent)
25. Reinstall Tranny/Tcase
26. Fix speedo cable/seal
27. New fill/drain plugs
28. Install new oil pan
29. Fix battery, frame, body ground wires.
30. Install new battery tray (requires drilling out a broken stud)
31. Install new hoses
32. Install new Fan & AC Belts
33. Install my Tuffy box
34. Fix rear heater fan
35. Clean frame rails (full of mud)
36. Put my new OEM steel (freshly poweder coated!) wheels on
37. Drive away

[TEQ]

I was pretty nervous about tearing down my front hubs and knuckles. The FSM used lots of terms I didn't know and there were sooo many parts. Bull pushed me over the edge by starting me on the left one and I completed it and the right one on my own.

Hub and disc brakes off:



One of the hubs. Mechanically these look fairly sound, but they are pretty beat up. I tried a wire wheel to clean them up and they look somewhat better, but will still look like crap inside of my shiny new hubcaps. So I'm replacing them with new ones. These are for sale.



Components out of the right one. I've since cleaned everything up ('cept the bearings, bolts & gaskets which will be replaced). Quite a few studs both on the knuckle and the hubs were stripped or otherwise beat up, so I'm replacing them as well.



Knuckle housing. Getting the bearings out was tough without the SST. I knew I was replacing them, so I used a bit of brute force. Yes, I tagged the spacers per the FSM....


One of the bottom knuckle plates looks pretty worn where it fits inside the bearing. I think I should replace it. Thoughts?

[TEQ]

I finally got the damn oil pan gasket off last night. Having the front 3rd member removed made accessing the arched portion at the front of the motor easier. I used acetone, a screw driver, a razor blade, a gasket scraper, a wire wheel on my drill, and a ton of elbow grease. I do not think I could get the mating surface any cleaner.

I feel like I really accomplished something


I also cleaned the faces where the 3rd members attach.



It was fun taking the fender off. I can see how people tear these rigs apart so quickly...once you start...



And I've got most parts tagged and bagged.



That's all for tonight...

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by PabloCruise

Hmm...

Just noticed the CCOT PS add-on.

I tried to buy their pump mount brackets for my '78, but they said no dice...

Do you mind posting some pics of the PS pump mount? As you probably know, we missed being able to have factory PS by one year!

Here you go. Plus a bonus shot proving that this is a family activity (that's my 10 year old son CJ) or at least indentured servitude.

[Fast Eddy]

Originally Posted by TEQ

Here you go. Plus a bonus shot proving that this is a family activity (that's my 10 year old son CJ) or at least indentured servitude.

Ok, I'm a noob, this is my first post, and I'm scared. In the beginning of your post, I thought you had just the rig I'd been looking for, and over three pages, it degenerated to this! Ahhh! I'm expecting to see the inside of your tranny any day now.

I'm in sunny CA, and I get to deal with the ever-self-important smog man, and the '78 I'm looking at has the smog controls of a '58. Anyone want a 2x3 header cheap?

Someone tell me that I have half a chance of ever figuring out that multi-pus of little vaccuum hoses.

On a positive note I have two of those indentured servants who want to learn to drive...

[bretty]

hey man.............little off topic, but i was wondering what kinda digi cam you are runnin those pics are crisp to say the least.... cruiiser is lookin real solid also

[Texx]

That ps is the mini truck install, really easy for those of you who are watching, and iron pig off road has nice brackets. So much for another of ccot's "exclusive" items....sheesh. Nice truck, for sure.

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by bretty

hey man.............little off topic, but i was wondering what kinda digi cam you are runnin those pics are crisp to say the least.... cruiiser is lookin real solid also

Nikon Coolpix 5700.

[Robert LaDuke]

Originally Posted by Fast Eddy

Ok, I'm a noob, this is my first post, and I'm scared. In the beginning of your post, I thought you had just the rig I'd been looking for, and over three pages, it degenerated to this! Ahhh! I'm expecting to see the inside of your tranny any day now.

I'm in sunny CA, and I get to deal with the ever-self-important smog man, and the '78 I'm looking at has the smog controls of a '58. Anyone want a 2x3 header cheap?

Someone tell me that I have half a chance of ever figuring out that multi-pus of little vaccuum hoses.

On a positive note I have two of those indentured servants who want to learn to drive...

Where in CA are you?
When i restored my '78 I was thinking the same thing about the vac. lines. Turns out they are not all that difficult to figure out. I reccomend you get the FSM's for 1978. The Emissions Manual is very helpful.
Welcome to MUD!

[Robert LaDuke]

Sorry for the hijack TEQ. Just wanted to help the new guy.

Great thread! .... please continue

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by Robert LaDuke

Sorry for the hijack TEQ. Just wanted to help the new guy.

Great thread! .... please continue

No problem! Just as long as it doesn't deteriorate like Bull's Albert 99 UZJ100 thread did...

[Fast Eddy]

Originally Posted by Robert LaDuke

Where in CA are you?
When i restored my '78 I was thinking the same thing about the vac. lines. Turns out they are not all that difficult to figure out. I reccomend you get the FSM's for 1978. The Emissions Manual is very helpful.
Welcome to MUD!

Where can you find the FSM (field service manuals?)

I live near San Jose. There's a '78 2f for sale on the classified boards near Sac that has all the smog parts still on it.

I also have a place in Phoenix where a 25 year old vehicle is exempt. It may get an AZ plate on it for a while while I get it sorted out.

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by Fast Eddy

Where can you find the FSM (field service manuals?)

I purchased my FSMs (chassis & body as well as 2F engine) from www.sor.com. I have also seen them for sale on eBay and other online cruiser shops.

Or you could send a personal message to cruiserdan who is the parts manager for a Toyota dealer in NM. He can get you OEM parts (including the FSM) at really good prices.

[PabloCruise]

Get the manuals from Cruiser Dan - and all your other Toyota parts...

TEQ - not be a tool, but I was interested in the mounts for the pump, not the box...

Any chance of seeing those? Sorry - you put up great pics of the box!

[bull]

Originally Posted by PabloCruise

Get the manuals from Cruiser Dan - and all your other Toyota parts...

TEQ - not be a tool, but I was interested in the mounts for the pump, not the box...

Any chance of seeing those? Sorry - you put up great pics of the box!

It's the mount that uses the head bolts to attach to the engine. Similiar to this one.

http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_acces...%20Engines.htm

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by bull

It's the mount that uses the head bolts to attach to the engine. Similiar to this one.

http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_acces...%20Engines.htm

Actually, I think it was a two piece deal, head bolts mounted to rear of pump, and front of PS pump mounted to water pump...

[TEQ]

Duh. Sorry.

Here's the best shot I have. I will see if I can take some more tonight.

[John Smith]

A few observations. You really dove into this project fast for never having turned a wrench beyond changing your Porsche's oil.

It looks like you have a massive exhaust leak somewhere based on how much carbon is all over the drivers side of your engine, firewall etc. Since you are into it this far you will probably want to track that down. Also somewhat exhaust related, the fuel leak you plugged due to the juryrigged previous owner fix on your carb is supposed to be the fuel return to the tank. If you are not going to hookup a return line make sure your fix will hold. If it fails again and leaks onto your exhaust manifold... poof.

Great Thread!

[bull]

Originally Posted by PabloCruise

Actually, I think it was a two piece deal, head bolts mounted to rear of pump, and front of PS pump mounted to water pump...

I said similar

It is the pump bracket CCOT sells or used to sell. I cannot find it on their site again. I will confirm the next time I'm breaking stuff on TEQ's cruiser.

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by John Smith

A few observations. You really dove into this project fast for never having turned a wrench beyond changing your Porsche's oil.

It looks like you have a massive exhaust leak somewhere based on how much carbon is all over the drivers side of your engine, firewall etc. Since you are into it this far you will probably want to track that down. Also somewhat exhaust related, the fuel leak you plugged due to the juryrigged previous owner fix on your carb is supposed to be the fuel return to the tank. If you are not going to hookup a return line make sure your fix will hold. If it fails again and leaks onto your exhaust manifold... poof.

Great Thread!

PO had the manifolds taken off and machined last year. In addition, it WAS leaking gas on the manifolds and I think that contributed to the carbon build up.

I don't think I still have the problem, but I will monitor it.

The carb will be replaced with a '78 unit in the "next phase" (i.e. after I get all this mechanical crap done).

Thanks!

[toyman317]

Great thread. Please keep it up. Gives me much inspiration to go through my mustard 78 40 with 60K original miles. At first I wasn't too sure about the color too but it is growing on me....especially seeing what it could look like by seeing yours. Thanks

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by bull

I said similar

It is the pump bracket CCOT sells or used to sell. I cannot find it on their site again. I will confirm the next time I'm breaking stuff on TEQ's cruiser.

Here, I think this is the piece CCOT used - wanting TEQ to verify w/ pics...

[AATLAS1X]

Off the subject a little, But is the Oil cooler missing?

[TEQ]

Originally Posted by AATLAS1X

Off the subject a little, But is the Oil cooler missing?

Wow, you are right. I didn't even know there was an oil cooler. I guess I did notice a oil line running along the passengers side of the valve cover in other rigs, but I figured it was a year-year thing.

Is this a Bad thing? Or a non-issue? Would CCOT have taken it off when they installed the A/C?

[Robert LaDuke]

If I recall correctly not all 78's have the oil cooler. It's probably a nice thing to have if you have one but not a problem if you don't.

[AATLAS1X]

Originally Posted by TEQ

Wow, you are right. I didn't even know there was an oil cooler. I guess I did notice a oil line running along the passengers side of the valve cover in other rigs, but I figured it was a year-year thing.

Is this a Bad thing? Or a non-issue? Would CCOT have taken it off when they installed the A/C?

I bought a CCOT Land Cruiser. 79 Red and it was a basket case I found out. It has aftermarket parts everyplace, Incorrect carb like yours and emissions that were bare bones and from an earlier year. And the famous CCOT P/S and A/C.

I would run a cooler if I was you. I have the correct bolts, huge bango if you need them and they are new. you will need 2 "O" rings and 2 copper washers. run the coolant hose and your in business.