Oil pan/ side cover gasket stuff....(FAQ)

Poser · 02-07-06, 09:55 PM

Since I had the camera at the shop and was taking pictures of the main bearing mess... I took some pictures of how I install a new Toyota one-piece pan gasket and the oil pan without fighting it, and messing up the gasket.

After cleaning the pan/engine block/gasket sealing areas VERY WELL with brake cleaner or other fast evap. solvent and making sure that the pan flange is flat and not damaged, I put the gasket down and tie it to the pan in four corners using just general cotton-type string from Ace Hardware.

I then use sealer on both sides of the gasket that fit into the grooves of the #1 and #4 main bearing caps, and on the corners. I then use two 8mmx1.25x40+mm long bolts to hang and locate the pan while I then then position the gasket, sometimes needing to use a 90 degree angle pick to fish it into place. Then I install the oil pan bolts using blue locktite and snug them up, being careful to not over-tighten the fasteners, and damage the pan gasket. This system has worked very well for me since I started using it back in 1992. Hopefully your results will not vary, but they may.

Poser · 02-07-06, 10:00 PM

Side cover gasket....

This is where your Gasgacinch or Caterpillar 5H-2471 Green cement come in and shine...clean the cover and the sealing surface of the block very well agian with brake cleaner or other fast evap. solvent. Use some contact cement on the gasket and cover, attching your gasket to it. After the gasket has set up on the cover, I use just a bit of black sealant on the lower half, just to help keep things leak free. (sorry about the crappy first pic)

Hope this helps!

-Steve

wesintl · 02-07-06, 10:06 PM

Good tips for those pesky suckers...

honk · 02-08-06, 05:18 AM

I've been using 3m black weatherstrip glue lately because it seems to clean up better than yellow and instead of the strings I use bolts put downward through the gasket to hold it while the stickum sets. Once dry the bolts come out and the pan goes up.

Never had a leak comeback since 1976

Man Jerk · 02-08-06, 08:03 AM

Good tech as usual Steve.

Very useful stuff.

PabloCruise · 02-08-06, 08:43 AM

Thanks Steve.

Also, for those of you getting ready to do this job - the side cover gasket goes on ONE WAY! That means figure out which side is which BEFORE applying adhesive/sealant.

Don't ask me how I know!

I believe the pan gasket is directional as well, but a little more obvious...

IDave · 02-08-06, 10:36 AM

Thanks for posting this, Steve! I know a lot of folks, including myself, will greatly benefit!

FLYINGLOW · 02-08-06, 11:01 AM

And only buy the one piece pan gasket. The first time I did the pan gasket on mine (engine in place) it was 4 piece from a parts store, I thought thats the way they were........

Poser · 02-08-06, 11:59 AM

12151-61010 Toyota one-piece oil pan gasket part number....

FLYINGLOW · 02-08-06, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poser

12151-61010 Toyota one-piece oil pan gasket part number....

Ya, I've used a couple since that time. Just don't want others to have to go through it too.

petescoffee · 02-08-06, 05:50 PM

Steve-
I am getting ready to do mine for the 3rd time and have a question..
On the flat areas you aren't using any gasket sealant like red high tack permatek sealer? Is it not needed? Also, on the ends over the bearing caps are you using black sealant on both sides of the gasket?
The manual calls for sealant in the corners at the rear main are you still doing that or does the sealant that you put on the gasket eliminate that?
Great and timely post. Now how about the timing cover. I can't get that to seal up. I think my cover flange is warped from coming on and off from leaking and the original rebuild.
Dave

Poser · 02-08-06, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petescoffee

Steve-
I am getting ready to do mine for the 3rd time and have a question..
On the flat areas you aren't using any gasket sealant like red high tack permatek sealer? Is it not needed? Also, on the ends over the bearing caps are you using black sealant on both sides of the gasket?
The manual calls for sealant in the corners at the rear main are you still doing that or does the sealant that you put on the gasket eliminate that?
Great and timely post. Now how about the timing cover. I can't get that to seal up. I think my cover flange is warped from coming on and off from leaking and the original rebuild.
Dave

Dave-

I do not use any sealant on the flat surfaces, other than the very ends around the last bolt holes, I have not ever had an issue with the cork gasket not sealing on that flat surface, however, make sure your pan flange is not damaged.

I put sealant between the pan and the gasket on the curved ends where it fits into the main bearing caps, and then on the side of the gasket that contacts the engine block/bearing caps. I also put some sealant on the ends of the gasket around the last holes in the gasket, as I think Toyota may mention in the FSM. I am pretty sure that I am going beyond what Toyota suggests.

The front cover flange can bend and distort very easily. Any time I replace that gasket, I make sure that the flange on the cover is not dented or warped at all, as you will not ever get it to seal properly that way. One other thing to verify is exactly where the oil is leaking from, as I know many people that have tried to stop what was thought to be a front cover leak, only for it to be the gasket between the end plate and the engine block, the steel piece between the front cover and the engine block. These are time consuming, but not impossible. I have a 1973 in the shop right now with all these pieces off. It was going to be another post, but I will shoot pics of that tomorrow and try and get them out here.

-Steve

HawkDriver · 02-08-06, 07:07 PM

Pretty slick!

landcrusher909 · 02-08-06, 07:35 PM

perfect timing Poser i just got a new pan gasket and rear main seal will be installing this weekend thanks for the tips

Poser · 02-08-06, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by landcrusher909

perfect timing Poser i just got a new pan gasket and rear main seal will be installing this weekend thanks for the tips

Rear main seals are a breeze and zero risk of damaging them if you install them when you have the pan down....drop the rear main bearing cap, pull out the old seal, clean the area up, install the new seal, re-install the main cap, and torque the four bolts.! No hammer, no beating on a 30 dollar seal, in and out.

You can see the lower part of the rear main seal in this pic...( I hope )

albee · 02-08-06, 08:34 PM

I have tranny fluid leaking out the bolt holes on my T350. I think the po tightened them too much. Is their any way to fix it? The po also beat the pan so the front drive shaft would clear. What is the correct way to get the drive shaft to clear the pan?

Poser · 02-08-06, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albee

I have tranny fluid leaking out the bolt holes on my T350. I think the po tightened them too much. Is their any way to fix it? The po also beat the pan so the front drive shaft would clear. What is the correct way to get the drive shaft to clear the pan?

Are you sure that the bolts have pulled the threads out of the transmission housing?

I would get a new pan and modify it, as you will probably play hell getting the flange to seal if the pan was beat on to clear the drive shaft...cut away what you do not need, and re-weld it. Buckroseau did this a couple months ago in his 45 buildup thread, and took pictures of it...the pan, just like everything else on that build, turned out nice.

In the event that the bolt holes are stripped, you will need to install threaded inserts...no biggie...you are working on aluminum....upside down however.....

Good luck!

-Steve

JP2ME · 02-08-06, 09:59 PM

Does anyone else remove the rear main seal the way POSER does it ? That sounds like the ticket to me. I'm about to do mine this weekend and some guys seem to have a lot of trouble doing this job........

JP2ME · 02-08-06, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poser

Rear main seals are a breeze and zero risk of damaging them if you install them when you have the pan down....drop the rear main bearing cap, pull out the old seal, clean the area up, install the new seal, re-install the main cap, and torque the four bolts.! No hammer, no beating on a 30 dollar seal, in and out.

You can see the lower part of the rear main seal in this pic...( I hope )

Could the rear main seal really be that easy ?? I'll be doing mine this weekend .

Poser · 02-08-06, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JP2ME

Could the rear main seal really be that easy ?? I'll be doing mine this weekend .

With the transmission, flywheel, oilpan and rear main cap out of the way, yes it really is THAT easy.

Most folks that are doing a clutch install/rear main seal are not working on the oil pan or gasket at the same time....

rgentry · 02-09-06, 08:41 AM

Not to give Poser a hard time, but when I first saw his picture I
imagined myself trying to replace the rear main seal with the
flywheel in place. It took me a minute to come to my senses.

petescoffee · 02-09-06, 09:16 AM

Thanks for the tips Steve

PabloCruise · 02-09-06, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petescoffee

...Now how about the timing cover. I can't get that to seal up. I think my cover flange is warped from coming on and off from leaking and the original rebuild.
Dave

Dave,

You will need to confirm that the shop that did your rebuild did not bottom out your oil squirter on the block. This will push the plate away from the block and result in leaking.

Don't ask me how I know this one either!

I did a thread on my repair. Search should turn it up in this forum (40 tech)

May the Force be with you!

petescoffee · 02-09-06, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PabloCruise

Dave,

You will need to confirm that the shop that did your rebuild did not bottom out your oil squirter on the block. This will push the plate away from the block and result in leaking.

Don't ask me how I know this one either!

I did a thread on my repair. Search should turn it up in this forum (40 tech)

May the Force be with you!

Mine is leaking at the bottom of the cover. I can see where I Over tightened the bolts as trying to to make it flat. The gasket has squueezed out enough to drip.

landcrusher909 · 02-09-06, 12:21 PM

in and out it was that easy, thanks Poser the seal is in and the pan will be on within the hour

landcrusher909 · 02-09-06, 05:32 PM

done!!!!! just follow Posers instructions and its easy , ran it for about 30 minutes and pulled the flywheel off nothing have a good one

TEQ · 03-18-06, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poser

I also put some sealant on the ends of the gasket around the last holes in the gasket, as I think Toyota may mention in the FSM. I am pretty sure that I am going beyond what Toyota suggests.

I have searched my FSM up and down for the oil pan gasket replacement instructions but do not see them. Can someone tell me where they are?

Poser: Do you find you need to let the rig sit after taking the pan off to keep oil from seeping onto the clean edge?

And I noticed several people said they waited a day (?) before re-instaling the pan w/ new gasket. Why?

lemon · 03-18-06, 10:43 AM

Probably to let most of the oil drain off things so you're not under there bathing in raining oil.

I don't think there's anything in the FSM as detailed as Poser's instructions. I think there is only a suggestion on where to place gasket sealer.

If you follow Poser's instructions it will be a breeze. Right before putting the gasket in place wipe down the mating surface with de-greaser or lacquer thinner.

TEQ · 03-18-06, 12:12 PM

What kind if sealer should I use? I bought RTV red, black, and blue :-).

Also, what kind of "cement"?

TEQ · 03-18-06, 03:45 PM

Do I need to remove the clutch over to remove the oil pan? It looks like it...