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Old 01-13-06, 06:38 PM   #1
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Home made tire carrier build up thread...

Well, I just got my silver star so I thought I would post up a few pics as I build up my rear tire carrier and bumper for my fj40.

I looked at what seems like every carrier on the web, I even searched some of the J*&p sights looking for ideas. Most of my concept is based on the 4plus swing out from MAF and the Bulletproof Mfg designs. Both are great, and if I could swing the cash they woud be on my rig.

Here was my criteria:

1. Has to hold a 35" tire.
2. Has to hold a hi-lift.
3. Has to hold a regular cooler (basket like MAF)
4. Basket must be removable.
5. Has to cost under 250.00 total.
6. It has to be able to locked in the open position.

So I will beg borrow and "steel" to make it happen. I take a long time to get things done so we will see how it goes.

Here is my parts list:

2x2 3/16" wall for the bumper and swing arm.
2x3" 3/8' thick for the mounting brackets.
1.5" HREW tubing with .120 wall for the carrier and brackets.
Hinge/spindle from Iron Pig offroad, Thanks Lance!
90 degree pull latch, 2000lb from McMasterCarr.
Quick pull spring pin from McMasterCarr.
Grade 8 hardware 3/8" bolts and nuts.
Nylon blocks for the swing arm rests.

Anyhow, I am open to any suggestions... at least until I burn it all in with the welder.

Enjoy, pics to come.

Rezarf <><


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Last edited by REZARF; 01-13-06 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 01-13-06, 07:01 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REZARF
Grade 8 hardware 3/8" bolts and nuts.


1/2" bolts, or leave it in the garage....


You may also find out that 2"x2"x3/16" will not handle the weight of what you are looking at doing...


There is a reason that the MAF 4+ carrier is 3"x3"x1/4" and 1/2" mouting plates with 12 1/2" grade eight bolts....

There is a tremendous amount of leverage and forces in play while you are moving down the road and trail.




Good luck!


-Steve

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Old 01-13-06, 07:07 PM   #3
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pics...


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Drew F.

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Old 01-13-06, 07:08 PM   #4
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opps, forgot to attach.

how do you get text between the pics?

Here is all my stuff. and what I have done so far.


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Old 01-13-06, 07:10 PM   #5
Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
 
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i do not see anything...
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Old 01-13-06, 07:33 PM   #6
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This should work, my shots were the wrong size. These should work out now.

How do you put text between the shots?

Here is what I have so far.

Junk in my trunk...
Attached Images
   


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Drew F.

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Old 01-13-06, 07:34 PM   #7
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would like to see pics to see the progress and how its coming along. Pics need resizing? ifranview can help make it easier


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Old 01-13-06, 07:36 PM   #8
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Hinge hole... 1.5" shaft for the IPOR hinge set up. It will be welded top and bottom and along the entire inside wall of the tubing as well.

Poset thanks for the advice, is there anywhere to check out the specs on grade 8 bolt specs? I thought 3/8" would be pretty beefy.
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Old 01-13-06, 07:42 PM   #9
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Hi All:

Sorry dude, that material is not beefy enough for the job!

I'd use 2 x 4 3/16 inch rectangular tube for the basic rear bumper at a minimum, and at least 1/4 inch where ever plate steel is required.

1/2 inch grade 8 bolts are only pennies more than 3/8; well worth the extra few nickels!

Good luck with the project!

Alan
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Old 01-13-06, 07:56 PM   #10
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I am sold on the 1/2 bolts. We'll see how it goes.

Rezarf <><


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Drew F.

Rising Sun 4x4 Club

76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running.

Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds...

My camping trailer build up thread.
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Old 01-13-06, 08:25 PM   #11
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TIG it!

Just kidding. I'm in town this weekend if you need a hand.


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Old 01-13-06, 08:40 PM   #12
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IanB-

I might give you a call, when I said beg borrow or steal, I had images of your tube bender in my mind!

PM Sent.

Rezarf <><


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Drew F.

Rising Sun 4x4 Club

76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running.

Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds...

My camping trailer build up thread.
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Old 01-13-06, 09:46 PM   #13
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are you going to mount the main part on top of the angles? if so why? id think it would look cleaner welded to the edge. keep the pics coming im hoping to start on mine sunday.

-miles


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Old 01-13-06, 09:56 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruzerman350
are you going to mount the main part on top of the angles? if so why? id think it would look cleaner welded to the edge. keep the pics coming im hoping to start on mine sunday.

-miles
My idea is to retain the stock tail lights. The way everything measured out I have the perfect amount of room between the top of the mounting brackets and the bottom of the doors. I also want things to tuck up close to the body.

This view might help.

I will probably cut a diagonal on the brackets to increase the departure angle a tad more.
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Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds...

My camping trailer build up thread.
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Old 01-13-06, 10:26 PM   #15
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I'm liking all the design so far. I like the way you put the tube on top of the angle iron. Angle irons look beefy. Like others have said, just think beefy. Better to be over built than have a failure on the trail.

The one thing I can't figure out for sure on my design is how I'm going to make it so that the RH door can open with both swing arms closed. But yours is looking great so far. Keep it up.


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Old 01-13-06, 10:44 PM   #16
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thanks hawkdriver-

Yeah, I had a few Mechanical engineering friends look my stuff over, I may be right at the lower end of acceptable, but with good welds and solid components I think I will be okay.

I am not sure what you mean when you say you want to keep both your swing arms closed and be able to open your rear door. I would think that would be the reason to have a swing arm in the first place. I might be missing something here though, what do you mean?

More pics to come as I get some more done on this stuff, thanks again.

Rezarf <><


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76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running.

Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds...

My camping trailer build up thread.
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Old 01-13-06, 11:43 PM   #17
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oooh ok i got it now. i forgot you had stock taillights. thats good thinking actually. you can stick weld a reciever hitch in the middle under the bumper now. that would look good and work good. im gonna have to recess mine into the bumper


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Old 01-13-06, 11:48 PM   #18
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Well I want my kids or whoever to be able to let themselves out during day to day use. I want a tire carrier on one side and a cooler carrier on the other. Since I don't need the cooler everyday I'd like it to be removeable. So on the RH side I'd like the swing arm to be below the door. I'm thinking of using 2x4 or 2x5 and cutting out holes for the lights then the cooler side swing arm out of like 1x2 so it'll be below door. But I might just use one swing arm that goes all the way across but still has the tire on LH side. Whatever it is I gotta have the one door free to open. I'll figure it out.

I think you'll be aight with that build up like you said. Specially with that nice hinge you picked up. Look forward to the pics. Peace...


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Old 01-13-06, 11:53 PM   #19
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hawk, why dont you just make one of the swing arms ramoveable. so each si ehas a seperate latch and you can take the rh one off the spindle.


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Old 01-13-06, 11:55 PM   #20
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Okay, now I get it.

Man, I never thought about that. I will have to get out and run around to open up the swing arm to get access for rear passengers.

One idea would be to run a set up like the 4plus at MAF. The spindle I am using is removable, so that might be the way to run for you. Keep your tire on at all times and pull your RH side swing arm when not in use.

You could use a draw latch from the swing arms to an attachment point on the bumper... so the latch will actually pull the swing arm down for the connection.

That should give you the access you are looking for.

Rezarf <><


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My camping trailer build up thread.
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Old 01-13-06, 11:58 PM   #21
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thats what i said but i beatcha to it


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Old 01-14-06, 12:04 AM   #22
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Removable arm, I like it. Thanks fellas. Now to just look at all the pins with removable type caps to find the easiest one to remove often. Oooh, or maybe like a slotted cap setup where when it's closed it's locked on the pin but to take it off you just open it up and lift it off.

I was thinking something along those lines for a latch.


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Old 01-14-06, 12:37 AM   #23
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or a pin wiht threads on top so it just bolts on. ive seen one 1" bolts that would work great.


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Old 01-14-06, 06:35 PM   #24
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Might also want to think about not having it TOO easy to take off. Dont want it to grow legs.


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Old 01-14-06, 10:19 PM   #25
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well i started on mine today. only took 4 hours to get this far. im using 2 1/2"X 2 1/2" box tubing 1/4" wall for the base. then i got some 3/8" angles to mount it to the frame. the rest of it is 2" DOM tubing i think. i got it from a guy was test fitting a roll cage for his race truck. i got a full roll cage for free! too ba dit doesnt fit anything i have. the spindle is a 1 1/2" solid steel semi truck hitch pin. everythign is stick welded and this was my first time so if you have any smart ass comments kepp em to yourself. and im not trying to hijack just thought i would share and maybe give you some inspiration.





ill have some more pics as i get it done. should be 75% by tomorow night.


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Old 01-14-06, 10:22 PM   #26
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oh and by th wya could i see what you are using for a latch cause i dont really have any good ideas.
thanks
-miles


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Old 01-14-06, 10:26 PM   #27
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