[gladly]

I know that there have been lots of how to hook up/tune my carb questions lately, and i did use the search function, but haven't yet found an answer, I got rid of the holley, installed a stock carb, apparently off another canadian '75 40, but I am wondering where the wires go, also the vacuum line for the thing on the front, I have a bit of decelleration backfiring, or detonation, thought it might be related to the fact that these things aren't hooked up.










hope that these pics are adequate, the last one is a bit of a mystery, but it comes from the inboard side of the carb, and goes to a flat connector.
my vehicle was holley'd when it was "restored" so there is no obvious place these things plug in, the vacuum line is hooked to manifold vacuum right now, because it was there, and it looked right... and I think that's what some guy said...
if anyone can give me an answer or at least a clue or two, I would appreciate it
also, hopefully related, it tends to surge at idle, runs fine, then picks up or stalls down, then recovers, runs fine....and so on. could be that I need to gap the points, but I am not old enough to know how points work really, so I have been avoiding them.
any advice appreciated.

[andrewfarmer]

Pics are a bit poor - can you shoot some bigger, brighter ones please...?

[cabron]

What is timing set at? One electrical connection should be for idle cut off solenoid. Those pics are a little small to see... Definitely check dwell angle. Are you running aftermarket coil?

[gladly]

sorry for the poor pictures, here are a few better ones and a link to specter's blowup of a federal spec carb that seems similar
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat042.tam?xax=10737

item # 71 is the APC diaphragm so I guess that I want to know what the APC is and what sort of vacuum it needs to be hooked to?

also I guess the other wire I am wondering about is the idle solenoid, what does it need to be hooked to? color of wire, likely location or anything would help, is it just a 12v in or does it go to some more complex place?

also in this picture
http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=jk9bu8
there is a sensor just below the window that I haven't found on any of specter's carb images, any ideas?

last, in the same picture there is a vacuum line at the very top that's been blocked off.
better pic here: http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=jka77q

also anyone know of any good links on setting points?is it best to just replace them? I think I've got how to set the gap, but haven't figured out the what/how of dwell angle
thanks

oh and it is a stock coil, and I haven't got a clue what the timing is set at, it's sort of, where it sounds right, I don't have a timing light. I know I should get it set properly, but it seemed like a good idea to get everything hooked up first.

[Rocky_LC]

I hope that's not you in this pic, that won't help adjust your carb....

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=jk9bu9

I hit the "next" button by accident. LOL

Rocky

[Pin_Head]

The idle solenoid valve gets hooked up to the fused ignition wire (black with yellow stripe). Same wire energizes the voltage regulator.

The top vacuum fitting is the power valve. Normally it is run by the smog computer, but you can try hooking it to manifold vacuum. Unhooked, it will be always open and run rich. I'm not sure if the manifold vacuum will drop low enough for it to open w/o changing the spring, but give it a try.

For timing, advance it until it starts to ping of knock (preignition) under heavy load and then back it off until it stops.

What's in your pocket?

[gladly]

not my picture!
that's why I stopped posting kid pics on tinypic for the family, you never know what you'll find if you hit 'next' or 'random'

that's pretty much what I did for the timing, but I didn't adjust the points first, which I suppose might affect things. I was getting two different things when I searched about points, one was adjust with matchbook or feeler guage , the other was to use a dwell meter. or both?

[gladly]

now that I know that it's the idle solenoid I am looking at, search was a bit more effective.
weird part is it hasn't been connected, and I've been driving it for a couple of months. hasn't run perfectly, but ran.
still wondering about the APC thingy, does it get manifold vac or ported, or is it residual smog stuff?

[65swb45]

Originally Posted by gladly

now that I know that it's the idle solenoid I am looking at, search was a bit more effective.
weird part is it hasn't been connected, and I've been driving it for a couple of months. hasn't run perfectly, but ran.
still wondering about the APC thingy, does it get manifold vac or ported, or is it residual smog stuff?

Solenoid is only effective if it is powered AND sealed via the small O-ring at the end of the valve. If the O-ring is missing, fuel is free to flow AROUND the valve.

APC is residual stuff; cap it.

[gladly]

thanks mark, so is it worth installing a new o ring so that it works properly, or does it get adequate flow around the valve? I connected it and it does go click, so I guess that it is still operational.

any ideas on the backfiring on decelleration, from what I have read it looks like a possible result of the throttle positioner having nothing to connect to (no VSV) and is just something that I have to live with, fixing exhaust may help.
sound right? (it's not just popping, sounds more like a 12 gauge sometimes)
thanks for your input

[FJ40Jim]

The carb in the pics is a 1975 USA spec carb, not a Canada spec unit.

The extra electrical on the bottom front of the carb is a temp sensor for emission computer. Disregard it, and pull that wire off it.

The APC is an Armored Personnel Carrier.
Your carb has an AAP, Auxiliary Accelerator Pump.
It can be connected to manifold vac for a load sensitive AP function.

Definitely connect the Power Valve fitting on the top of the carb to a manifold vac source. Otherwise the PV is seeing zero vac, which is WOT, and seriously enriching the main circuit.

Backfiring in exhaust is exacerbated by a leak in the exh. system. Fix the exh so no combustible air can get into it and there will be no backfire problem.

[Pin_Head]

Originally Posted by gladly

any ideas on the backfiring on decelleration, is just something that I have to live with, fixing exhaust may help.
sound right? (it's not just popping, sounds more like a 12 gauge sometimes)
thanks for your input

Do you still have the air injection smog system hooked up? If it is backfiring that bad, you have some major air in the exhaust system coming from somewhere.

[gladly]

thanks Jim
power valve sounds like the likely culprit, then, the AAP has been connected, I just wasn't sure that it was to the right source.
exhaust is next then,
any input on points, one manual said you have to use a dwell meter, another said a matchbook was fine. how critical is the dwell angle, is there a points timing FAQ somewhere?

and no, there is no air pump anymore, did canadian models have all the same smog equipment as us models?

[fjwagon]

Points: Haynes has a good illistration on points Just looking at pic will tell How its done. A good analogy that comes to mind is a head of a bolt. Move the dist where a "corner of the head" make the smallest gap. This will be the where the adjustment will be made. I don't know the gap values sorry it's been a long time ago since I done one. And sorry for the poor analogy.

[gladly]

thanks all, got it all hooked up now, but it's too bloody cold (-22C) to start it without being plugged in, (still need a shop!) hopefully my problems are solved.

one more thing, would the leaky idle solenoid (indicated by the fact that it wasn't hooked up and the truck still ran, but when powered it seems to work (click)) be the likely cause of the carb draining overnight, proper level when parked and low or no show in the morning? can the o-ring be purchased seperately from toyota, or just matched up at the parts store, or do I need a whole rebuild kit to get it?
thanks.

[FJ40Jim]

The idle solenoid is not affecting the evaporation of fuel in the carb.

The O-ring can be purchased from Toyota.
maybe could be matched up at a hardware store (if you already had one).
definitely comes in any 1975-1987 2F carb rebuild kit.

Just buy a kit so you have spare carb parts as needed.

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

"Gladly," if you just want to drive your rig take that carb and send it in for a re-build to either Jim @ TLC Performance or Mark @ Mark's Off-Road and you will end-up a happy camper!

Both of these fellows have excellant reputations for doing quality carb rebuilds. Jim did one for me last Summer and my FJ40 has not run this well in years!

Good luck!

Alan
Seattle

[gladly]

I know that sending out to have it rebuilt would be best, but that's too expensive for now, apparently this carb ran fine on the truck it was on, mine ran fine with a holley, so I think it's more the installer than the parts.


thanks everybody, for the help.

[gladly]

fixed!
plugged it in, took it for a drive to get everything warmed up, came back, turned it off, hooked up power valve and idle solenoid, started up a whole new truck, it accellerates, idles smoother, no backfires, done!
thanks for all the help, folks

[gladly]

ttt, I suppose, thanks for the help this far, but...
so it starts up and runs good, but when warm, it sucks, if I take the APC vac line off, runs like a top, so my thought, (possible bootyfab content) was to just put in a vac switch so that when starting the APC could be turned on, then once warm, it could be turned off so as to run well. symptoms, it misses around 2000 rpm, idles fine, accelerates great, backfires on deceleration a bit but midrange sucks, with apc disconnected, takes forever to get around to starting, doesn't idle well cold, but drives smooth seems that a vac switch to turn it on and off would give me the best of both worlds, but maybe there is a problem with this logic. found a switch at the local big truck guys, (Inland kenworth), p/n Climatech BA1215, looks like a toggle switch, but is for air, anyone either
A/ have a better idea or
B/ know of a cheaper vac switch that's widely available?
C/ know what future problem this might cause for me+my junk?
thanks for the help.
-stefan

[FJ40Jim]

A/F mixture requirement is leaner at operating temp. If engine runs good cold, but runs bad warm, then the mixture is too rich for the warmed up engine.

In this case, the AAP diaphragm is cracked and fuel is actually being sucked through the diaphragm and into the manifold, enriching the cold mixture, but drowning the warm engine.

You can cap the AAP and ignore it.

Or you can get a rebuild kit and replace the AAP diaphragm.

[twoturtlesracing]

Got A question guys, same line of thought... My rig started running like garbage after having tuned the carb and pretty much doing everything that has been discussed in this thread. Ran great for a couple of weeks, then kaput! Started pulling vacuum and reconnecting vacuum lines to see what was wrong, and noticed fuel squirting out of the AAP nipple. I am going to get a rebuild kit, but want to drive it till then. How do I block off the AAP? (Cut a gasket that blocks off the whole thing and put a nipple on the hose connection?) Thanks for the input! (Btw, it's a 8/75 40.)

[FJ40Jim]

Just cap the nipple on the AAP cover, and the carb will operate as normal with no AAP.

[twoturtlesracing]

Did it! It's running much better. Thanks for the tip. Wouldn't know what to do without you guys!