which truck to put 13BT into

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by rutbeer

JEEZ!!!!!
I saw photos of these things, but never saw one in person or saw one next to something of scale. Holy crap! Where am I going to mount this?????

damn ! that thing it's huge .. I thought the engine bay it's your option .. close to the air filter box ..

[rutbeer]

Working out annoying details at this point, but it is running now.
It took me forever to figure out why my vacuum shut off was not working, but I finally figured it out today. I apparently hooked the alternator up wrong, so that the 12v sense wire was actually feeding back into the system somehow and keeping the fuel cut lead at 12v as long as the alt was spinning. Obviously, this kept the vacuum shutter from closing. Duh... problem solved when I removed the ground lead and it suddenly shut off. Clipped that lead on the alt, flipped the 12v feed and the sense, and now I'm good to go.

Well...not really. I noticed that the vacuum hose I used for the booster is sucking flat. Nice....guess I need some stiffer hose.

I also can't seem to get the water temp gauge to register anything but the oil pressure gauge is fine. I wonder if the temp sender on the water is 12v / 24v specific. I swapped the oil pressure sender out with my 2F, so maybe I should have done the same on the water temp?

It's also idling a bit rough, so maybe need to bleed the injector lines again.

Oh, almost forgot...the vacuum switch I used came off a junkyard 85 Supra. $5 each, so I bought two. One for a/c and one for shutter.

[rutbeer]

Another trip to the junkyard on Saturday and it netted me another $5 part. This time, the parking brake "plate" that mounts to the tunnel. Found one on a 92 4-runner that fit perfectly. I must say, these work MUCH better than the transfer one.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by rutbeer

Another trip to the junkyard on Saturday and it netted me another $5 part. This time, the parking brake "plate" that mounts to the tunnel. Found one on a 92 4-runner that fit perfectly. I must say, these work MUCH better than the transfer one.

Damn ! I love your dual shift knob setup !

[rutbeer]

Thanks dude!

[rutbeer]

The skid was about 1/4" too high only at the transfer.
I trimmed the lip off the front of it....really didn't have to, but did anyway.
Then I cut a hole where the transfer drops and made a turtle for it.
Should be just fine now...

[siurana]

I had to change the temp sending unit also. The old one must have been 24vlt. I used my old 2f one, it's working great. I'm glad you've got the alt wiring figured out.

[FJ40fiji]

I'd put it in the 40, but that's because I live in California, and that would get me out of passing smog inspections.

[rutbeer]

Siurana,
I went ahead and ordered a 78 temp sender. What year was yours from? I wonder if it matters for what will fit in the neck of the B.

FJ40fiji, I agreed...that's why it's in the 40 now. I do have another 13 sitting on the floor in the garage though....hmm.......nah, hard to butcher a great running 45.

[LC_Hamma]

Originally Posted by rutbeer

Siurana,
I went ahead and ordered a 78 temp sender. What year was yours from? I wonder if it matters for what will fit in the neck of the B.

FJ40fiji, I agreed...that's why it's in the 40 now. I do have another 13 sitting on the floor in the garage though....hmm.......nah, hard to butcher a great running 45.

That's why you need to start up an expedition rig buildup, preferably a , so the wifey doesn't throw in another remodel job

[siurana]

I pulled my temp sender from a 78 2f so it should work fine. My 13bt is the red block.

[rutbeer]

I'll pick one up today at the dealer and try it out on Saturday. Oh, I have two wires (one connector) coming out of the firewall near the top of the valve cover. As I recall, one of these goes to the temp sender, but my wiring diagram doesn't match the colors I have. Do you know which one you hooked to?

[rutbeer]

BTW, the 12v sender worked like a champ. That was the ticket.

So, ordered up a 13bt mandrel bent exhaust system from JCwhitney. Part number TY3BFJ78. This thing is the bomb, and fits a 13bt into a 78 40 like it was designed for it!

[rutbeer]

Okay, just kiddin...... I did order the 2.5" mandrel parts from Jcwhitney though. In fact, I was two bends short of being able to finish tonight. DOH!
Well.....I'll get to it in a few days. Tick tock, tick tock....GSMTR around the corner. It's going to be tight. The morons at the hose shop still have my powersteering stuff, so who knows if I'll get that in time.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by rutbeer

Okay, just kiddin...... I did order the 2.5" mandrel parts from Jcwhitney though. In fact, I was two bends short of being able to finish tonight. DOH!

I buy mine in summit cheap with 2 flexes ..

[siurana]

Rutbeer,
I haven't done my exhaust yet.

Where does that exhaust run over to the drivers side of the vehicle? I assumed it would as things look a little tight on the passenger side? Any installed pictures availble?

[rutbeer]

It doesn't. There is no room with the split case and the PTO to go on either side unless I went under the skidplate like the 2F did. I decided to go more or less the factory B layout, which is over the frame rail to the outside of the passenger side, then tuck back under/over at the rear wheel.
I'll post more pics when I get the last two pieces I'm waiting for and it's all buttoned up.

[rutbeer]

Here's a shot of it down the side. It looks low, but it's actually higher than the frame rail....not by much though. The old 2F pipe was actually below the skid which was worse than this.

[rutbeer]

Okay, got the locker levers moved. I put them where the old e-brake handle was. This location is super sweet and leaves me room to put in a good center console now. That's a lot of levers!

[rutbeer]

I got the bung welded in the down pipe, but I haven't run the wires yet. I don't know where I actually want to mount the gauges, so I'm waiting to figure that out. I had planned on putting them where the radio blank out plate is, but they don't fit without modification to the dash. Grr....

[rutbeer]

The steering resevoir I mounted to a blank spot on the fender and the corner of where the washer bottle was. I didn't have a washer bottle and I think I'll use that space for the a/c drier anyway. The lines to the steering box were TIGHT. I had to put 180 degree bends in those puppies.

[rutbeer]

Forgot to mention that I drove it for the first time on Saturday. It's sweet!
Much quicker than my old 2F, though that motor may have been too smog laden to be much fun anyway. The torque is truly amazing. I can almost leave it in third all the time....slow down for a right turn, ease on the pedal, no problem. I'm itching to get the tach, egt, and boost installed, but that will have to wait until after GSMTR.

[MoCoNative]

Looking awesome rutbeer, glad you have it running and working. That is always a thrill to do something like this and finally get it going and drive it the first time.

I thought 2F's in a 40 were pretty peppy actually, I have an 84 60, that appears to have gobs more power than my 40, although it is still a slow turd, the lighter chassis of a 40 probably moves better than a 60 with a 2F. I only drove a 75 FJ-40 one time, and it ran great with the 4 speed and 2f compared to my stock 73. Sounds like this swap really makes some nice improvements.

Some long term tests and mileage would be helpful. I've looked at diesel conversion for several years now, but unless the swap can be done cheaply, and the gas savings are amazing I can't see doing it now. Diesel is 3.60 a gallon in my town now, don't know if the few extra MPG is worth it.

As far as guages go, I was looking at some of those little pods that mount on a dash or whatever with a pedestal mount, or ones that go on a rollbar with a clamp and pedestal. I want to mount a tach on the steering column, right below where the plastic trim stops. Clamp it to the metal tube. But with three guages that changes things. I also thought about the dash pad left of the wheel. Perhaps a person could build or get a three guage pod and shape it so that it looks like the stock pad. It would stick out, but you could run the wires out the back and through the old turn signal hole on the side of the steering shaft. Saves cutting up the dash. I don't want to do it either. If you have a full cage???? could mount to it up the A-pillar area too.

Subaru performance websites sell a three guage pod that mounts in the area on the dash where the optional altimeter went on the Forester and Impreza, it is a stylish piece also, may blend in on top of a 40 dash. I also saw a similar pod that simply velcroed to your dash like that.

[rutbeer]

Yeah, I have thought of a POD like the FJ cruiser has or the like and mounting that with velcro. I'm not fond of drilling holes that aren't easily replaced if you change your mind.

On the swap thoughts, diesel is $2.89 here and unleaded is $2.99.....so, it costs me less to fill than gas AND I get the better mileage. Add that to the fact that you are basically installing fuel injection, which means better starting and no flooding carbs offroad....and it can begin to make sense. But not for fuel economy alone. It makes sense if you were going to rebuild a 2F, add fool injection, add 5spd, etc.
Don't get me wrong, this swap is expensive to do, especially if you pay someone else to do it. The misc. parts really add up, (like over $1,500) but there's no reason you have to do it all the way I did. You could build your own motor mounts and save 100's.. You could find a used starter and alt instead of buying new. You could buy a cheap split case and go that route instead of converting to manual my way. You don't need pyro and boost, or emblems....and you could have midas do your muffler cheap. I just thought since everything was apart, why not do it right and replace anything that does wear even if it hasn't.
All that said, I haven't actually added up the receipts....I'm scared to. I bet I have more in the swap than I do when I bought the truck the first time.

[MoCoNative]

I completely agree with getting good parts, fixing all that you can, keeping it Toyota and such. I like the job you have done, really pretty clean and stock like.

I just can't swing it here. The swap cost is not a huge deal, it's trying something new, making what you want. But the fuel is more costly for me. Like I said diesel 3.50-3.60 right now, Regular unleaded, 3.20-3.30. I'm already having a hard time filling the tank on my F and 2F, I'm getting a good solid 15 MPG out of each of them, rain or shine, so the conversion wouldn't really ever pay out.

Now a few years ago, prices were completely reversed and diesel was far cheaper. And of course if you are setting up to run bio, then go for it. I wish I could find a little diesel VW or something and do that to drive to work, but in a town of 10,000 people, and only a couple hamburger joints, I don't think there is a reliable source for the cooking oil.

Carry on though, looking great, should be a good perfomer off road with the 70 series axles and lockers.

I've hit a real hurdle for me right now, about a month ago I laid my 40 on its side, insurance totalled it out. It is plenty drivable, but the hardtop got trashed, windshield, all that. I'm too busy to repair it at the moment, so it is sitting. Now I'm thinking of taking the insurance money and swapping my drivetrain and front end onto a 45 frame, and make a pickup. But then again, it was pretty well restored before and was a good looking 40, been in the family since 1977, can't decide if I want to destroy its stock lineage with such a drastic swap out or not. Kind of the spot you were in with your two rigs.