which truck to put 13BT into

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by rutbeer

didn't you have your turbo jet-hot ceramic coated? Or was that someone else?

Nope, we've had the exhaust manifold ceramic coated for a few customers, as well as the dumps. When I need a turbo rebuilt I will have the hotside coated while it is all apart.

hth's

gb

[R2HKS]

Originally Posted by Greg_B

Nope, we've had the exhaust manifold ceramic coated for a few customers, as well as the dumps. When I need a turbo rebuilt I will have the hotside coated while it is all apart.

hth's

gb

I highly recommend this! We just had a mates Skyline GTR turbo's coated. The last set was silver ceramic coated, however, the coating ended up cracking because it couldn't handle the heat. This time he went with Competition Coatings highest heat rated coating. This coating is flat black, unlike the chrome appearance of the last time it was done.

Also don't just get the "hot" turbine side coated. If you have the turbo apart get the turbine side coated in the highest temp coating you can get as I suggested. Get the "cold" compressor side coated in the fancy chrome finish ceramic coating. The idea is to keep as much heat as possible retained in the turbine side. This increases the gas velocity, can help the turbo spool faster, and drastically lowers underbonnet temps to help avoid heatsoak to other components including the compressor. The compressor side however you want to reflect the heat and not retain heat.

Also while your there, send off the turbo manifold to get coated, again using the black highest tempt coating. This coating is so effective a guy could touch it with his fingers after a quarter mile pass, without permanently leaving his fingerprints attached, its very impressive, though I wouldn't recommend trying it though this did happen. Get the dump pipe coated as well.

The net result is you make or retain you turbo's efficiency and increase gas flow which should also aid in lowering the EGT's, aid in spool up and reduce turbo lag.

[okie]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

I think you are going to be happy what ever you do.

I'm pretty sure adding the 13BT will increase the value of either. The purists will cringe if it goes into the 45 but the market will pay more for the the rig with it in.

Being one who appreciates purists but modifies nearly everything I'd recommend putting the diesel in the 40 in spite of agreeing with most of what crushers said and the only reason is the wheeling. I'm sure you're going to take whatever rig gets the diesel further than you ever would previously for events etc. My GF and I think nothing of jumping in her 13BT powered 40 series for a thousand mile trip. The 13BT makes the wheeling even more fun once we get there. If that powerplant was in the 45 its inevitable that its going to see rock rash sooner than later. Its easier to avoid in the 40 and easier to fix.

I have to say, however, a 13BT in a 45 would be ultra cool. Rob got me thinking about the vac shifter... the 45 would have had it stock. Stratospheric super coolness would be achieved if you and 66LWB45 got together and figured out how to column shift an h55f.

ur a genious!!! that WOULD be bad!

[Japan4X4]

Originally Posted by rutbeer

It makes me wonder if the guy that pulled the motor took the line off the inlet and pushed it over the return line and made it a closed loop for shipping.

Is that not the way it must be done

[rutbeer]

Heehee... yes. Makes total sense now, but looking at for the first time ever, it was much different than a 2F carb and the manual was not clear enough for me to know. I just didn't want to bother the guy that sold it to me with stupid questions.

[rutbeer]

No, I'm not gone...just performing marital duties with a kitchen remodel. Priorities. So, now I have two 13B-T's to choose from and I have a vacuum t/case conversion in the works with a twin shifter linkage. This will be available in a kit when I'm done. I also finished up the PTO winch and got the 60 series powersteering box cleaned up and ready to go. Camera is down, so no pics yet. I have one trail ride next month before I tear it down and put the new motor in. I've been collecting parts for a LONG time and the rest should move pretty good when I have the calendar freed up again. Also working on a CND trailer project to haul the kitchen junk off....so that's been a neat distraction for a bit.

[rutbeer]

I'm back! The kitchen is DONE. Finally. Health problems, injuries, and money is tight, but I'm finally working on my truck again. I spent most of the night dismantling the 13b-t and cleaning it up. I can't stand all the freaking hoses all over the top of the motor, so those are being relocated. I'm going to paint the block and what not , but need to be able to get to it do so. I'm amazed at how well the aluminum is cleaning up though. Pics tomorrow......

[crushers]

excellent, keep us updated...

[rutbeer]

Not to my standards of clean yet, but without all the coolant and vacuum lines running all over the top, it's getting better. I also plan to flip the throttle cable down the bottom side so that it doesn't cross over the top of the motor, so that bracketry is removed. The coolant lines and vac stuff will be figured out once I get the motor in and see how well things line up. It also depends on whether I go to a standard alt or if I keep the vacuum style. Putting a seperate vacuum pump on the intake side will eliminate the over or around the engine lines.

[Tapage]

Damn ! what a beautiful view !

[rutbeer]

Anyone know for sure if a 2lt pickup diesel alt will swap with a 13bt? It looks like a dead ringer, but I hate to gamble with parts that are special order.
Also, took the starter apart. Common sense would tell me that the plunger is NOT the 24v part, it has to be the field on the solenoid. The motor part is easy.....The only way I see to get the soleniod field out is to desolder a lead or two. Anyone know for sure?

[rutbeer]

I picked up some reman 2LT parts off of a 1986 toyota pickup diesel.
Close but not quite a perfect match. The starter lower body is quite a bit different, but the upper half is almost identical. The post on one side is moved around a bit and the drain hole is handled differently, but that's about it. The lower base must be swapped out.

[rutbeer]

This is darn near perfect. The only two real differences are the adjuster ear and the pulley itself. It appears that I will need to order a slightly longer belt so that the alternator can swing wider than the original configuration. Not a problem. The pully looks like it can easily be swapped over, although the larger pulley will make it turn slower....and less amps produced at idle. Oh well.

[rutbeer]

It's not really installed here, but you can see where the adjuster ear bottoms out against the power steering pump. As I said, a longer belt will be needed.

One thing I'm pretty positive about though, you could swap the internals of the 2LT into the 13BT 24V alt. I bet you could order the rotor and the regulator, but the starter/alt rebuild guy was unable to find the Denso part numbers to do so.

[Tapage]

did you have the amps rate .. ?

[rutbeer]

60 amps, but I'm not running an electric winch, so I don't really care about the amps.

[MoCoNative]

Quick Question, been considering 70 series axles and lockers under my 40. Apears swap is fairly easy. What is the width gain, and is it worth it. I would like some added subtle width gain on my 40, and then I want to do a small lift 2 inch max, probably new springs to do it. but I want to keep it fairly stock and roadworthy. Much like you have done. Is it worth it?

I'm dealing with a bone stock 73 FJ-40, would probably consider a tranny change also with this, maybe 5 speed and new split case. Then flanges would be the same, and e brake would be solved with newer axles.

[rutbeer]

Width gain is minimal, something like an inch or so. Dont' do the swap for the stability, do it for the strength gain and kick butt lockers. Cable lockers RULE. You will have to move the perches, especially the rear. The front can be used as is, but it will bend your springs out a bit. If I was to do it over again, I would move the perches on the front a quarter inch each, but it's really not a big deal. Rear is required though....
Drivability is fine...can't tell the difference. I drilled the flanges on the 70 series pigs, but if you are going split case, like I will, you won't have to do that. I only did so that I could continue to run until I'm done with all the swapping.

[MoCoNative]

Thanks for th einfo rutbeer, Lockers are kind of what I was looking at too. Would be way cool to have them, simple yet effective.

Where did you get your drivtrain parts, G&S???

Oh, great looking rig, I like it when guys spend the time to do it right, and keep it pure Toyota, amazing how much you can swap around.

[Jan-78FJ40]

Originally Posted by rutbeer

It's not really installed here, but you can see where the adjuster ear bottoms out against the power steering pump. As I said, a longer belt will be needed.

One thing I'm pretty positive about though, you could swap the internals of the 2LT into the 13BT 24V alt. I bet you could order the rotor and the regulator, but the starter/alt rebuild guy was unable to find the Denso part numbers to do so.

that is great information!

J

[rutbeer]

The starter swap was easy. Just disassemble the nosecone and swap over to the 13bt aluminum housing. Perfect match!

[rutbeer]

The alt was NOT so straightforward. I thought the 13bt would be the later fine spline vacuum pump, but it's not. You can see here that my orange block doesn't match. The good news, is the blue block 13bt does. Perfect match. I just have to use the later model one. Interesting.

[rutbeer]

Starter did not work as planned, and I don't really understand it. The 12v starter, although new, would barely turn the B over, definitely not fast enough to start. The 24v fires it right up....I warmed the motor up, then swapped the 12v back in. No go, even from warm. Since the 12v starter motor came from a 4cyl diesel, and I'm putting it in a 4cyl diesel, I have to think my compression is either MUCH higher than the 12v B's and 2LT's, or I have bummed remanufactured starter. I always thought direct injected turbo compression specs were lower than indirect NA though?
I haven't made up my mind yet, but I may be taking the starter back and getting another or just go with a marine series/parallel switch and be done with it.

[Radd Cruisers]

Should work, I have installed several even on a higher compression 1HZ, starts great.

Did you switch out the 12volt magnetic switch?

[rutbeer]

No, I actually used the entire remanufactured 12V diesel starter....except the aluminum nose housing. If you look in the picture above, you can see where I pulled the two aluminum lower housings and just swapped that so the angle would be right.
Yeah, I don't get it. The motor was struggling so hard to turn the engine over. It would even turn then pause, then keep turning....like there was a dead spot in the electric motor.
The solenoid is fine, but it seems like the starter was only getting half power or something, but it still got warm from use.
BTW, the 12v starter motor has a small bolt spot welded onto the gold plated section. Any idea what that's for? It's not heavy enough for a ground lead...

[Greg_B]

A 12V manufactured starter we supply to customers turns over the 13BT in my BJ60 quite well.

You do have a solinoid activating a straight feed right from the battery to the starter...correct?

gb