My Anti wrap bar version

Trollhole · 08-30-05, 07:54 AM

I used one of these. About 19 dollars I think. Cut the ends off it and extended it with some thick tubing. Then welded the schackle that I found at tractor supply with the brace for 13 dollars. The xpensive part was the bottom hiem joint which I bought from Summit racing for 22$. Next time I would just buy another one of the bars like I found at tractor supply and keep the one side I didn't use as a spare. All in all it cost me around 60$s.

Only thing I'm going to change is the front bottom shackle pin. The heim joint and the shackle pin are different diameters. I'm going to get the right bushing and some shock bushings for each side.

Amazing difference in traction and stopping. No more stuttering.

And since the previous owner mounted one without a shackle And it ripped out of the crossmember I patched the holes and added a strap over the top and welded it for added support.

camcruiser13 · 08-30-05, 11:00 AM

kool im gonna need to make one i think. nice work, it gives me some ideas

Capt. Jim · 08-30-05, 03:03 PM

That works. Nice job Marshall.

Mace · 08-30-05, 04:44 PM

First rock you hit with that shackle that hangs down is gonna give you a headache..

FLYINGLOW · 08-30-05, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mace

First rock you hit with that shackle that hangs down is gonna give you a headache..

Why do you say that? Invert?

Mace · 08-31-05, 06:14 AM

nope, because the shaft of the rod end is gonna bend and will break..

Trollhole · 08-31-05, 06:47 AM

Well maybe. Though the shaft ends are pretty stout. It might bend but for 65$ I'll just make anotherone. A lot cheaper than replacing a driveshaft which is why I designed it to be lower than the ds. The hiem joint threads also run into the bar about twelve inches on both top ends. So even it did break it won't fall apart.

haystax · 08-31-05, 09:16 AM

Looks pretty stout - except I've heard/read about the stock crossmember not being up to par to tie into. I can't say much though for personal experience, I am still too lazy to get one built for my junk. You think they will notice if a couple tractors are missing 3point links around here

FLYINGLOW · 08-31-05, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trollhole

It might bend but for 65$ I'll just make anotherone. A lot cheaper than replacing a driveshaft which is why I designed it to be lower than the ds.

If it bends, it will prolly break the first time you torque it, which will coincide with your D/S (or pinion) twisting itself up.

Mace do you suggest pointing the shackle up? Won't that give too much antisquat? I have never built a 4 link, but from my research on antisquat, I believe it will.

Trollhole · 08-31-05, 11:12 AM

So are you saying Woody did it wrong also?
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/woody/wrap.html

Mace · 08-31-05, 11:53 AM

Boy are you defensive..

Woody's did not hang below the skidplate. It looks like yours does..
I had built one that hung low, Killed it quick in Moab.
Just my experience talking here.

Your discussion of "torquing" is actually a response to antisquat (obtuse as it may be leaves are actually a form of links) The direction of the track bar is a direct translation to how the vehicle will behave. If it is above the x-member you will have large amounts of antisquat and the truck will want to rise on acceleration. If it is below the xmember that "lifting" effect will be reduced. Infact, it is possible to have the rear of the truck actually squat during acceleration (my linked rear does this right now) Which one is better/worse depends on who you talk to.

BTW, Woodrow DOES do things wrong sometimes

Mace · 08-31-05, 11:55 AM

Also use better than grade 2 bolts on stuff.. IT really is not that much more expensive..

Trollhole · 08-31-05, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mace

Boy are you defensive..

Woody's did not hang below the skidplate. It looks like yours does..
I had built one that hung low, Killed it quick in Moab.
Just my experience talking here.

Your discussion of "torquing" is actually a response to antisquat (obtuse as it may be leaves are actually a form of links) The direction of the track bar is a direct translation to how the vehicle will behave. If it is above the x-member you will have large amounts of antisquat and the truck will want to rise on acceleration. If it is below the xmember that "lifting" effect will be reduced. Infact, it is possible to have the rear of the truck actually squat during acceleration (my linked rear does this right now) Which one is better/worse depends on who you talk to.

Sorry about the defense. Yeah the pics make it look below the skid plate but it actually is not. But it is in line with the Driveshaft for the most part. But still any rock could hit it. I just cannot imagine hitting something that hard. I'm not a lower 2 kind of guy. 4,5,6 at tellico is about my threshhold. I like my junk to be able to drive around town also.

Trollhole · 08-31-05, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mace

Also use better than grade 2 bolts on stuff.. IT really is not that much more expensive..

Yeah every thing else except for that one bolt is grade 8. My thought was to have a wink link somewhere. I would rather break a bolt than something else. That why I carry a spare Grade 8 in the glove box.

Mace · 08-31-05, 12:13 PM

I tend to find that most of the time a "Weak link" breaks at the worst possible moment

I would use Grade 8's..

If the bar is gonna fail it will fail. A sub grade bolt will not help it. Also, if the bolt does shear you will put more instantaneous force on your axle potentially increasing the amount of axle wrap you have seen. teh bar keeps the Kinetic enery contained. When it fails you release that energy and all sorts of neat things can happen

.

John Smith · 08-31-05, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mace

When it fails you release that energy and all sorts of neat things can happen

.

I have seen two traction bars fail and they both punched a hole in the floor of the truck.

Trollhole · 08-31-05, 03:15 PM

Well then it on for the grade 8 and off with the grade two. Easy swap and I'll keep it as the spare. Thanks for the advice. Though I think I'll rip the shackle off before the grade 2 bolt breaks.

Trollhole · 09-03-07, 07:43 AM

Update. Well after 2 years of beating on it. It looks like it has bit the dust. The joints are worn out and the links are wallowed out. Still works but there is a lot of slop. Great idea with poor products and little money. Decided to cut out the cross member all together and start over using quality products.

Dynosoar · 09-03-07, 09:40 AM

Quality will always win! "Do it right the first time" can be an expensive lesson to learn. Luckily in you case you were able to do version one on a budget and have it last for a while.

Dynosoar

Bad Coco · 09-03-07, 11:00 AM

I'll try to post up some pics of mine tonight. Went with 1.5" .156wall dom with the ruffstuff brackets on the axle. Made a new crossmember with a shackle to a polyperformance uniball. We will see how it hold up in time. I inboarded my rear springs (rear 60's) an attached the crossmember to the spring hanger and the frame to beef it up.

Bad Coco · 09-05-07, 12:13 AM

No luck with posting the pics. Too big and I'm too tired to figure out how to resize. Here is the link to where I posted up some picks on Pirate. I think it should work pretty well. Time will tell.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=548889&page=5