Need PTO Winch Shear Pin and U-joint Part Numbers (1 Viewer)

[DieselLover]

Needed my winch for the first time this past weekend and got about 2 wraps and 6 inches in only to shear my pin with NO SPARE with me! (Slept out next to the troopy for a few hours in the cold until another hunter came down the same trail several hours later and tugged me out of the hole!) Have done a bunch of research and found some posts where people mention a "upgraded shear pin" part number from Toyota...do they make more than one shear pin for this winch? What are the part numbers? By the way, I know many choose not to use the factory shear pin and use bolts and such, but I think I'd like to try to stick with the Toyota shear pin for now. I'll buy a half-dozen of them, and if I find them to be too light for subsequent recoveries, I will definitely consider the alternatives.

I also have quite a bit of play in my PTO drive shaft at the U-joints but have had no luck finding a part number for them. Is this something I can get from Napa? Am I better off with a Toyota part? Anyone have part numbers?

Thanks in advance for any and all help!!

 

[Fast Eddy]

Use the search function to look for shear pins. There are some companies that have some stock, but not Toyota anymore.

Head over to Tractor Supply to look for u-joints. It may be easiest to scratch-build something from their parts if you're not set on original. Then you won't have to deal with the Toyota shear pin.

 

[DieselLover]

I've searched the forum up and down for info and sources and got pretty much nowhere. Found this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/130230-pto-shear-pin.html. There they discuss a PN: 90240-05504. A google search shows Cruiserparts.net in NH has "genuine Toyota" shear pins (Shear Pin [00255-94001] - $2.57 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts) and they show a PN: 00255-94001 for it....

Never would have thought to check Tractor Supply. Good idea. But I would not want to have to go replacing anything other than the U-joints. I am hoping to find an exact replacement for the U-joints on there currently so I don't have to modify or replace any of the other existing factory stuff....

 

[Mark W]

Never found the PTO ujoints in any of the parts stores. Last time I bought any I was able to get them from the dealer.

I have a couple of spares on the shelf. I will try and remember to get the numbers off of the packages tomorrow.

The recommendation to cobble something together from the tractor supply..... you are not going to find any parts that will integrate into the toyota system, so plan on cutting and welding or redrilling flanges... and it will not eliminate the toyota shear pin... If you have ever looked at a toyota PTO wench you will see that the pin is located on the input shaft of the winch itself.


Personally I would just redrill the holes for the shear pin to the next largest SAE size, get a length of dowel and cut yourself a handful.


Mark...

 

[DieselLover]

That would be awesome Mark! (better yet, let me give you my address and help you make some more room on your shelf! )

When I googled "Toyota PTO U-joint" I found THIS, which gave me some small hope that maybe, just maybe, if I was able to bring one in, I could get one @ Napa.....

 

[DieselLover]

use M8 hard bolt for shear pin, std shear pin usually breaks at first sight of work but bolt is good for several thousand kg's yet it still breaks before any other part in winch...

That's my fear about using something other than the factory shear pin, obviously....last thing I want to do is obliterate larger, more expensive, and nearly impossible parts to find. I'd rather try to err on the safe side, and have the shear pin as my "weakest link', but I've heard time and time again that it's just ridiculously weak compared to the true capabilities of the winch and components....

 

[shelfboy1]

i dumped the factory shear pin 30 years ago they always break when they are most needed.i have winched out a lot of stuff and the winch has yet to break.i had to go to larger cable because the factory stuff kept breaking.however i have a couple spare winches just in case.i drilled mine out and went to a standard 5/16 bolt grade 3 and it sheared also ,a grade 5 also sheared so i use a cap bolt.if you use your tires along with the winch it puts less strain on the winch.the other problem i have is when that pin shears the winch is usually under water or mud and you cant get to it.

 

[DieselLover]

the other problem i have is when that pin shears the winch is usually under water or mud and you cant get to it.

This is an excellent point, and probably the only reason I have considered the modification and upgrade route. I believe that even if I had extra shear pins with me the other day, it would be near impossible to physically replace it the way I was stuck. So what good is having extras if I can't replace them while stuck and have to wait until I'm "recovered" to do it? Kinda defeats the purpose of having the winch! BTW....have any pictures of your current cap bolt setup??

Good to hear you have had no problems with other stuff breaking...many others have said the same. Do you typically use a winch block? Or just a straight line pull and assist with drive train? Also, how are you using your drivetrain and tires at the same time as winching?? If you have your transfer case outside of neutral, you're the first I've heard that winches simultaneously! (not that it won't or doesn't work....)

 

[peteinjp]

DieselLover- just curious as to how you got stuck. I have a toyota pto winch going on in the near-ish future and I'm now thinking about the 8mm bolt instead of the pin.

Seems that according to toyodiy there are 2 numbers for the late model U-joints (or "spiders" as it says on the factory lit): 08/80-05/81 and post 06/81. The EPC shows the difference as having an o-ring or not. I guess someone with real experience should chime in here to clarify. The umbers listed are 04371-10011 and 04371-60020 respectively.


pete

 

[MoCoNative]

Look here

Part Detail, 795,802&selectConditions=()&sectionID=2&isBigPicture=False&componentsID=36-03&componentsIndex=13

UPDATE, Sorry this link is still not right, click above, go to powertrain/chassis and then click on driveshaft between PTO case and gear and PTO Lever, that will give the breakdown for the PTO shaft.

If it is posted with a price I have found these guys have it. At the top of the page, below parts listings, there are blue bottons saying "get info" those are parts diagrams. These guys are remote linking to digrams for the time being, since Toyota made everyone take them down. Use them while you can.

U-joint is listed as spider joint towards the bottom, I think that is what you want. I should order some too.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Look here

Part Detail

Link fixed.

 

[lostmarbles]

This is on my shelf.



And No! You can't have it DL.

 

[DieselLover]

DieselLover- just curious as to how you got stuck. I have a toyota pto winch going on in the near-ish future and I'm now thinking about the 8mm bolt instead of the pin.

Hey Pete! It was a very nasty "swamp mud" hole. I hit it with a little speed so I'd have the momentum to carry myself through it, but the hole was pretty deep in the middle. So as I tried to stay to the right and keep my right side on dry ground, the left dropped in, where there was no firm bottom, and all my weight shifted to the left side anyway. The stuff was pretty nasty. Out in this particular area, swamp buggies rule the roost. We're talking tractor tire-equipped monster truck-sized vehicles that can deal with the deep water and mud that you find out there. The BFG A/T's are absolute crap in the mud, so they were only a hindrance. The mud here just serves to fill in the tread and give you "slicks". The guy who finally came upon us said he has one of the "biggest buggies out there" and still makes sure he doesn't go near that hole - it's deep, slippery, and he's seen way too many buggies that couldn't get through it, let alone little stuff like my troopy. I was kind of happy to hear that and know that I had little chance of making it, regardless of driving ability, lol....

I suppose this thread is not "useless without pics", but I figured they might be appreciated, so see below....

The overwhelming majority of what I have read so far supports the modification and replacement of the factory shear pin. I will say that I have yet to read anyone complaining of major breakage occurring because of it. I think good common sense applies - I mean, if you're in serious crap and know you are testing the limits, use a snatch block. I mean, truthfully, I've got something like 150' or 160' of cable....there's pretty much no reason why I couldn't have used a snatch block in the same circumstance and reduced the load and risk of damage or breakage. I just didn't have one with me.... The more I read and think about it, the more I lean towards going with something homebrew - although I have no clue which way I would go. All I know is I would be extra cognizant about the loading I place on the winch and components involved and try to use a snatch block (or 2!) each time in order to ensure a less risky recovery....

Seems that according to toyodiy there are 2 numbers for the late model U-joints (or "spiders" as it says on the factory lit): 08/80-05/81 and post 06/81. The EPC shows the difference as having an o-ring or not. I guess someone with real experience should chime in here to clarify. The numbers listed are 04371-10011 and 04371-60020 respectively.


pete

So they refer to them as "spiders" eh? I'll double check again and see what it recommends for me, as I have NO idea if I need the o-ring version or not. And my troopy is an '82, which makes determining what I need that much harder! Definitely need someone with some first-hand experience in this to chime in....

 

[Eshu Elegua]

you got to love that black sand mud hole...

 

[shelfboy1]

i drilled out the hole where the shear pin goes and ran a cap screw through it with a nut on it.to use the tires run the winch the way you usually do but put the truck in low first and both will work.right now my plow is on and we have a ton of snow so a photo would be tough.

 

[shelfboy1]

by the way nice truck and i do use a snatch block when needed i have several off a 5 ton wrecker.2 of my 6x6 trucks have pto winches and they will also run with the tires if the tcase is in low .will work in high also but i dont use it that way..if your driving down the road and your winch engages it will make quite a mess when the hook catches.always use the safety catch.good luck on your winching

 

[DieselLover]

This is on my shelf.


And No! You can't have it DL.

Awwww, come on Tom! Show me some holiday love!!

MoCoNative: That's a nice little site - will have to bookmark it! You are right...they do show the part number Pete listed and lostmarbles posted a picture of. Not cheap at $43/ea (considering I have 3 that I was considering replacing, not to mention spares while they are still available....) but good to know there might still be a place I can get them!

BUT....

Am still VERY curious about the 2 different part numbers Pete mentioned. According to toyodiy, they recommend the 04371‑10011 Spider! So can I even use the 04371-60020?? Are they the same part, just one number superseded the other?? I sent a PM to cruiserdan yesterday but have not heard back...

And a few more pics...

 

[DieselLover]

i drilled out the hole where the shear pin goes and ran a cap screw through it with a nut on it.to use the tires run the winch the way you usually do but put the truck in low first and both will work.right now my plow is on and we have a ton of snow so a photo would be tough.

by the way nice truck and i do use a snatch block when needed i have several off a 5 ton wrecker.2 of my 6x6 trucks have pto winches and they will also run with the tires if the tcase is in low .will work in high also but i don't use it that way..if your driving down the road and your winch engages it will make quite a mess when the hook catches.always use the safety catch.good luck on your winching

Thanks man! Yeah, the more feedback I get and the more I think about it, I am definitely leaning towards doing something stronger than another factory shear pin...though not sure if I should go grade 2, 5, 8 or ???? Just don't want to have to face a situation on the trail where I physically can't do a replacement, if necessary (due to mud and water), but would be absolutely crushed if I broke something other than the shear pin due to stress.....

As far as the "in gear" thing, I just never really thought that much about it. I mean, it makes sense to be in gear when you are being pulled or snatched....but what happens if you finally gain traction and your PTO is still feeding in? Then you are not only running over your cable, but your PTO is still feeding in cable (which is now loose) without anyone being able to monitor it! Sounds a little scary in theory, but how has it worked for you? I suppose once you gained traction, you would engage the clutch, disengage the winch, get to solid ground with the winch disengaged, then work on winding the winch cable back in? I don't see it being a problem for the vehicle to actually run the pto and the drivetrain at the same time, but I'm wondering how it would all work out in reality in a recovery situation...

Not sure I'm totally getting what you are saying about being in high and the hook catching?? Do you mean by "safety catch" that you should always be sure to use the little lock out plate to ensure the winch is disengaged when not using the winch??

I think using a snatch block is a no brainer...I never really gave it too much thought as before the troopy I didn't have a winch. But anytime I read up on recovery techniques, I couldn't see why people winching WOULDN'T want to use one! (or 2 for that matter!) I remember seeing a video somewhere showing how one of the branches of the military teach recovery techniques where either 1 guy or several guys could move a HUMVEE on by hand! Very cool! Anyhow, I think I need to build myself a nice recovery trail bag with extra D-rings, snatch block, etc....

 

[Fast Eddy]

I sent a PM to cruiserdan yesterday but have not heard back...

Dan is a busy individual. You have to call if you want his attention. Beno has been known to lookup part numbers via PM.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

The PTO u-joints are available at Napa here in Canuckistan...


~John