Is this Distributor Set-up Correct? (1 Viewer)

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I'm trying to determine if the vacuum advance of my distributor is working or not. The FSM says to suck on the vacuum hose connected to the distributor when the engine is on. If the vacuum advance works than the engine should retard when i suck on the hose...nothing happened. There are two different ports coming off of the distributor and I tried it on both with the same result...nothing.

Right now I'm leaning towards getting a DUI, but I can't really justify it yet because the thing runs well. What I'm trying to improve is the start-up; sometimes it's difficult to start it up even when it's warm.

Right now I'm running a 79 fj40 with MAF headers, Aisin carb (not desmoged) and a desmoged 2f. The coil and igniter are stock.

I've included a picture of my distributor with hopes that someone can tell me which port goes to the vacuum and what the other one does

Thanks
distributor.jpg
 
I believe that's a Federal-spec advance mechanism. Inner port is retard; outer port is advance. Pull the cap (and inner cover if it has one) and suck on either port. You should see the contact plate move clockwise for the inner port and counter-clockwise for the outer port. You should also be able to move it by hand, if it's not stuck.
 
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A does not equal B.

Changing the dizzy may do NOTHING to make the truck start easier...especially if it's a carb problem!

While there are always a few rare exceptions, electronic dizzies usually work, right up to the day they don't. Sooooo, I think you should focus on the possibility of a carb problem before any more worrying about that vacuum advance.

Best

Mark A.
 
Agree with mark, you don't need a new dizzy.
Your advance port is hooked up. Follow spot's instructions to check it out.
Difficult starting could be choke, resistor bypass, vac leak.
 
Where does each vacuum hose attach on the motor to insure proper operation? What would happen if the two hoses attached were swapped?

Sorry about the hi-jack, but curious what symptoms would be if vacuum lines were reversed.
 
My distributor looks like yours. The inner vac port is for some desmog stuff, I capped mine off. The port on the red cap goes to a port on the firewall. On the other side of the wall is a filter. This allows the distributor to work under water.
 
My distributor looks like yours. The inner vac port is for some desmog stuff, I capped mine off. The port on the red cap goes to a port on the firewall. On the other side of the wall is a filter. This allows the distributor to work under water.

One port will go to the filter on the other side of the firewall. The other port will hook to (I think) a VCV and then on to the carb or intake manifold for vacuum.
 
Almost two weeks without feedback from the OP. Makes you wonder why we bother!:rolleyes:
 
sorry guys about not reponding...got sucked into another job and forgot about this post. I just replaced the carburetor with a stock Aisian carb...other than it not being desmogged it works and runs well. I'm getting almost 12 mi/gal and it run smooth. I'm really just trying to improve the cold starting ability of the engine. I've read that the DUI does that. Right now I have to crank on the ignition two or three times to get it going, but after that she runs great.

I've replaced the starter, distributor cap, rotar, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and carburetor (was a Rochester). I've done a valve adjustment and set the timing. All of these things have improved how well the engine runs but haven't done much for improving the cold start. What am I missing?

edwjmcgrath what resistor bypath are you talking about?

thinks for all the input.
 
what do you mean by set the choke. If you are talking about the hi throttle choke adjustment I set it to 1800 rpms when the choke is fully out. is there something else that needs to be adjusted?
 

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