quick question for those having done Saginaw PS

peiserg · 03-09-10, 05:25 PM

This is on FJ40, 1975.

Do i need to move the radiator out of the way to do this? I've got most everything else removed, but am not looking to do extra work.

Thanks.

Poser · 03-09-10, 05:42 PM

You do not have to, but the extra space is nice.

rc10 · 03-09-10, 06:33 PM

i was able to put my power steering in without moving it. Great mod you will love it.

POTATO LAUNCHER · 03-09-10, 07:09 PM

Just the bib and left fender on mine.

alex e · 03-09-10, 07:20 PM

Hell we didn't move ANYTHING on mine.

peiserg · 03-09-10, 10:07 PM

that picture is GREAT. A lot of the tech link pics won't supersize up... i guess the URL is too old?

Ok, so i'm going to leave the radiator in place.

ANy recommendations for a clean way to cut the cross member?
Is there a drill bit that large, that will cut metal? I know they make them for wood holes... but metal?

Finally..

Do i really need to pull out the steering wheel? If all i'm doing is pulling it out to cut the steering shaft (as close as possible to the rag joint, right?), then i can use my heavy duty dremel type rotary saw with a metal cutting disk and cut it off in 15 seconds without pulling it out.

thanks again. nice pics. Any others? that one was fantastic! And yes.. i've looked at EVERY SINGLE tech link on the saginaw.

Figured easiest way was to just swallow hard and buy the SOR kit, since i already have a pump mounted for my old 4runner PS conversion.

youmustbecrazy · 03-09-10, 10:15 PM

I just did mine. I cut the Xmember with a holesaw, no issue just went slow, came out nice, and most hardware stores should care them, they are made for metal and wood (might want to pick up an extra guide bit). I did not pull my steering shaft, I just used a grinder with a cutting disc on it. My 72 also had a brace on the bottom of the radiator that was in the way, I used the dremel to cut that.

Downey · 03-09-10, 11:02 PM

When/if you go Chevota, and want to lower the Rad (to get it positioned directly in front of the fan blade), you would need to box-in the drivers side lower corner of the radiator mounting housing---no biggie!!!

Trollhole · 03-10-10, 05:55 AM

What you should do.

Call Kurt with Cruiser Outfitters. Order the sleeve for the crossmember. Use a hole saw and cut the hole. Weld in the tube. Also order the bearing he sells for the steering shaft. Make the pillowblock a thing of the past for the 2f cruisers.

Remove the steering wheel and shaft. It's not hard. Work on that outside the truck. Make sure you get it all right before putting it back on.

Josie'sLandCruiser · 03-10-10, 07:20 PM

Hi All:

X 2 on getting Kurt's kit from Cruiser Outfitters; wish that was available when I did mine back in 2001!

Sorry Potato Launcher, no offense intended, but that looks like a bit of a hack job on the front crossmember. There is no need at all to cut-out the top part of the crossmember to inset the Saginaw PS gearbox.

Regards,

Alan

cruiseroutfit · 03-10-10, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josie'sLandCruiser

...X 2 on getting Kurt's kit from Cruiser Outfitters; wish that was available when I did mine back in 2001!...

Well it was

Just that my old boss (po of Cruiser Outfitters) wasn't really savvy on this whole internet thing lol. The in column bearing on my FJ40 was installed in 2001 and has been spinning nice and tight since then. That said there are some part of our kit that have come a long ways since then. For example we used to cut the PS plates one by one with the plasma cutter, now they are made in bulk

Plenty of PS part in stock and we're around all day tomorrow (we'll be in Moab Friday for the CruiseMoab prerun):
Cruiser Outfitters

POTATO LAUNCHER · 03-10-10, 09:20 PM

Not exactly a hack job Alan. It was cut and formed up to bring it in further from the front bumper. It was done that way for a reason, but thanks for your comment. Im sure everyone wants their projects to be the same IE, I bought a kit and mines just like yours. Also the front bumper is 3/8" plate welded to shortened frame horns so the crossmember is more of a front bib & radiator support now.

Poser · 03-10-10, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by POTATO LAUNCHER

.....so the crossmember is more of a front bib & radiator support now.

Sure, and as long as you do not take your truck off paved surfaces, and do not twist the frame up at all, ever, you will be fine.

Trollhole · 03-11-10, 06:19 AM

Something that was on my mind the other day. I searched for it but couldn't find who makes it.

Someone makes a brace that goes over that section of the crossmember so you can recess it more. Used something like half inch plate or something. Anybody heard or seen such a thing?

Oh and this is Kurts kit.

jeffery_1965 · 03-11-10, 08:21 AM

I believe you're refering to the plate from 4x4 Labs. Saginaw Power Steering Frame Plates | 4×4 Labs

Seems like a decent solution that supports inletting the crossmember to get the steering gear further back. I also filled in the hole in the cross member for the PTO Winch driveshaft.

Jeff

Picture "Borrowed" from www.4x4labs.com

Josie'sLandCruiser · 03-11-10, 06:43 PM

Hi All:

That looks like a nicely done job.

The "hackiest" Saginaw PS swap that I can remember seeing is where the guy cut-out the top the of the crossmember like a "U" then welded a vertical (not horizontal) piece of 2.0 x 0.5 x 12.0 mild steel as a "reinforcement" over the crossmember cut.

Regards,

Alan

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffery_1965

I believe you're refering to the plate from 4x4 Labs. Saginaw Power Steering Frame Plates | 4×4 Labs

Seems like a decent solution that supports inletting the crossmember to get the steering gear further back. I also filled in the hole in the cross member for the PTO Winch driveshaft.

Jeff

Picture "Borrowed" from 4×4 Labs

haystax · 03-11-10, 07:53 PM

I was lucky enough to get a set of ButchBuilt (RIP) frame horn and steering plates when I did mine. I thought that there was someone who continued to sell this style. Mudrak maybe?

When in doubt, add more steel. Then add more power. Repeat.

peiserg · 03-12-10, 12:04 PM

so i've got most of it done, minus the welding.

appreciate the ideas and info.

damn that above pic looks NICE!! But i've already paid for the specter setup, so there ya go..

Another DIY question..

the kit from SOR came with 2 thick metal plates... one is obviously for mounting the steering gear box. the other seems to have the bend in it for the front of the frame rail, but i'm not sure if it goes opposite the other plate (meaning... on the same rail as the gear box plate, only opposite side, i guess to bolster the strength of the attachment point of the gear box?) or does it go on the passenger side rail for some reason?

thanks. gerry

Fryedaddy · 03-12-10, 12:28 PM

It goes on the same side as the new box mounting plate.

Josie'sLandCruiser · 03-13-10, 08:45 PM

Hi All:

The second frame plate is used to "box" the opposing frame rail (the passenger side.)

Regards,

Alan

Quote:

Originally Posted by peiserg

Another DIY question..

the kit from SOR came with 2 thick metal plates... one is obviously for mounting the steering gear box. the other seems to have the bend in it for the front of the frame rail, but i'm not sure if it goes opposite the other plate (meaning... on the same rail as the gear box plate, only opposite side, i guess to bolster the strength of the attachment point of the gear box?) or does it go on the passenger side rail for some reason?

thanks. gerry