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Old 02-28-05, 09:14 PM   #1
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Floorboard rebuild

I want to repair/replace the floor of the 40 and I finally got out the rusted hunk of metal some PO put in and got a look at the original floor. Pics are below, how fawked am I? (the gory holes are from all the cutting it took to get the patch job out)

I am thinking of cutting out the major stamped sections, one for the fuel tank and one for the t-case, and welding them into a whole new floor. But then I wouldn't have the small stamped sections that reinforce the floor. Can I spot weld reinforcements on? Alternately, think a good sheet metal shop or stamping plant may be able to stamp in some reinforcing ridges? It doesn't have to match original and I don't want to pay for custom tooling. I am looking for ideas here.

I am also wondering if divide and conquer might be the way to go. I was looking at it tonight and wondering if i could take the floor out in 4 sections, one at a time, repairing each section then replacing it. I would cut along the rail that reinforces the floor from underneath. Anyone tried this?

I am primarily interested in options that involve fabrication, not buying replacement parts.

I should also probably add the caveat that I am not attempting a faithful restoration, I want to weld some new metal in (but do it well) and get the 40 painted and rhinolined so I can go back to working on mechanical mods. I am tired of it looking like shite.
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Old 02-28-05, 09:18 PM   #2
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I need to take better pictures. The floor is completely detached from the rest of the body except for about the weld where it meets the cowl floor.
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Old 02-28-05, 09:41 PM   #3
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If not wanting to go with replacement panels, i'd cut out the enitre floor and redo it with some 12 guage and supporting ribs underneath. F messing with the original metal for the tank and just weld up a box that would fit the stock tank. Do a search on here and you should come up with a few people who have redone their floor with tread plate or sheet steel. I also remember a guy a while back using the stamped sheet out of a pickup bed to redo his floor but that may be too booty fab for your tastes. After having redone a tub, I'd seriously suggest looking at an alum tub or used steel tub if the rest of your chit is in the same condition.


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Old 02-28-05, 10:17 PM   #4
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Try this thread, Halo's got it under control. http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...light=Halo%27s


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Old 02-28-05, 10:27 PM   #5
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I replaced the whole floor pretty much in my 55 I threw a few supports on there but I dont think they were needed. Just use some good thick steel it is strong enough to support the weight.


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Old 03-01-05, 04:23 PM   #6
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washer and dryer sides make great patch panels..lol
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Old 03-01-05, 08:41 PM   #7
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I did the CCOT floor panels and they worked great. Welded to the rocker panel and to the cab mount and the box behind the seats. Looks original, just have to weld into the old floor for around the trans hump and tack in nuts for the seat mounts.


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Old 03-01-05, 09:57 PM   #8
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I looked at the CCOT panels and the price wasn't terrible, have any pics?


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Old 03-02-05, 07:45 PM   #9
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Here ya go.
Pictures of CCOT floor boards.


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Old 03-02-05, 10:47 PM   #10
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I decided to make a new floorboard. So I cut out a new floor and then cut out the little hump over the t-case levers from the old floor and welded it in to the new floor as that looked like a pain to fab. My metal bending facilities are a ball peen hammer and a bench vise.

The holes are drilled for the cowl and just need new nuts tacked in. I need to make an indentation for the fuel tank tommorow. The original one is bondo and tin foil, so i can't cut that out and weld it back in to the new floor
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Old 03-02-05, 10:53 PM   #11
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Damn thats a good looking cruiser Toyo... I wish my rust bucket looked like that. Thanks for the pics!


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Old 03-03-05, 12:03 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanB
Damn thats a good looking cruiser Toyo... I wish my rust bucket looked like that. Thanks for the pics!
It's getting there... Still have the seats to install than I have to start on the roof and doors.

This is what it looked like last year before the cowl and frame swap.


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Old 03-03-05, 07:49 AM   #13
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I need to fab up the indentation for the gas tank, I can't cut the old one out and use it, its shot. Does anyone have any pics of one they have done, I'm looking for ideas.


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Old 03-03-05, 08:44 AM   #14
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here is the one from that post listed above from halo



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Old 03-03-05, 10:36 AM   #15
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Yeah I read that whole thread, cool rebuild. I was looking for other ideas for mine, something with sloped sides maybe, though its probably a waste of effort as its just hidden by the gas tank anyway.

On the bright side the pirate link above didn't work, but i got thier 404 error page and it was hilarious!


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Old 03-03-05, 09:52 PM   #16
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This is what I have so far:
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Old 03-03-05, 10:08 PM   #17
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looks great!


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Old 03-04-05, 11:06 PM   #18
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The floor is done, so here's my shameless "I did it" pic post...

This was my first TIG project as well as my first experience with sheet metal. All my welding to date has been putting equipment back together for logging, and that was years ago. Any suggestions to improve?
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Old 03-05-05, 06:09 AM   #19
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Great work man. Should like nice when its installed. Cant wait to get started on mine...


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Old 03-05-05, 09:16 AM   #20
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You suck My first sheet steel experience was a friggin disaster. Lookin clean. Any plans on bedlining your floor or are you gonna stick with paint?


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Old 03-05-05, 06:40 PM   #21
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That looks pretty sweet. Are you going to run the new steel under the inner rocker panels and weld to the outside ones? when I opened my rockers they were full of rust.

And from my experience you don't have anything like enough beer bottles for that job.


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Old 03-05-05, 09:08 PM   #22
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AARGH I fried my torch, the little ferrule siezed up and I stripped the threads getting it out, I'm out of commision till next week now. I really think someone needs to open an all-night-and-weekends welding supply store in Denver.

Chase I plan to line the whole interior, paint the exterior and go soft top.

Toyo my rockers are shot, so I cut the floor to just fit inside and cut 1" 16guage square tube diagonally to make thin guage angle too use as a lip to rest the floor on and tacked that on to what was left of the inside rocker panel. It wont look completely stock, and I still have to figure out how to deal with the outside of the rocker panel, but its all steel and very solid. With patience i will be able to weld entire seams and won't need to seal the floor at all. I have some pics of it tacked together I'll post tommorow.


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Old 03-21-05, 06:12 PM   #23
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I finally got the replacement parts for the torch and made some progress on the floor this weekend. Still a ton of welding (and grinding ) to do but its in and its solid.
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Old 03-21-05, 09:10 PM   #24
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That looks great. I'm in the process of replacing my floor boards as well. What gauge sheet did you use? Did you cut/weld to the original floor board mounts? Also, any close up pics of the inside rockers you repaired? I know, lots of questions but I've never done this before either.

Rob


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Old 03-21-05, 09:14 PM   #25
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Looks pretty sweet man....A lot of time consuming work there.


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Old 03-21-05, 09:50 PM   #26
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That looks great first itme or not. If you did it again I bet it be even better. I know a '70 that would volunteer Actually that's a job in the near future for me to try

Chris


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Old 03-21-05, 11:34 PM   #27
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If you're going to bedline, I wouldn't spend any extra time grinding your welds flush (especially since you say it's not an uber-resto). Your Tig welds look nice and even from the pictures. I spent lots of time grinding my Mig welds, and with the exception of a few high-wear areas (middle of the driver & pass. floor, or where you alway's slide your tool-box over), I feel it was a lot of work for not a lot of gain. Your Tig welds should stick up less than the mig welds. The bedliner filleted in all the unevenness (is that a word?).


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btw, nice work!!


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Old 03-22-05, 10:28 AM   #28
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Robad - I reused the original floorboard mounts, drilled out the old welds and welded the new floor to them. That was the hardest part, I managed to overheat the steel and warp the floor a little. I used 18 gauge but now wish I had used 16 gauge, its not critical but the 16 gauge would have been just that much more solid. I have a lot more pictures at home if you need them. I haven't done the rockers yet, still haven't decided what to do to fix them.

If anyone is thinking about doing this I highly recomend it. It is time consuming but not really difficult and was a great learning experience.


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Old 03-22-05, 10:03 PM   #29
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Real cool Ian. When you cut out the old floor did you leave a lip to weld to or did you cut it our flush? Ive got some major rot on my drivers inner rocker that I'm working on. I also trying to decide on weather to patch the holes in my floor or replace the entire thing.

Rob


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Old 03-22-05, 10:58 PM   #30
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Hi All:

Wow Ian! Great job with the sheet metal fab!!

I am currently getting my FJ40 back together after doing a body tub swap and rear frame repair.

I think your fab work is great, and quite the project!!

Regards,

Alan
Seattle
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