[BlackDiamond72]

So I'm sure I've done something wrong, but I don't know what. I removed the old vac retard dizzy from the 2f (I know, the PO used the old 69 dizzy with the upgraded 2f) and installed an 85 fj60 dizzy. I pulled the valve cover and made sure the #1 cylinder was at TDC on the compression stroke when I installed the dizzy. It dropped all the way in engaging the oil pump and the rotor was pointed at the contact for #1.

Installed switched 12v power to the positive terminal on the coil, hooked up the two wire cable going to the dizzy from the igniter. Plugged in the spark plug cables, turned over, no juice.

I then hooked up my timing light to see if there was power going to the spark plugs, it showed that there was. I would rather hold the plug and see for certain however, its just me working and I cannot turn the key and hold the plug at the same time.

Any ideas would be very helpful.

[CruiserStuff]

you may have the wrong coil/ignitor assembly.....did you put in the correct one for that year dizzy?

[BlackDiamond72]

I pulled both coil and distributor from the same vehicle

[Coolerman]

If the timing light showed that the #1 plug was firing, was the engine trying to start? Backfiring? Anything?

Take the distributor cap off. Pull the coil hi tension wire out of the cap and stick an old spark plug in the end. Ground the spark plug. Turn the key on and rotate the distributor shaft by hand back and forth enough to get the pickup to trigger. You should see a spark each time the pickup is triggered if the ignitor is working.

[BlackDiamond72]

As I'm working alone, I'll have to try that later when the gets home. I figured if the timing light was showing that a charge was being sent down the spark plug cable, then there must be a spark but you're right, I need to see for certain.

When I pulled the valve cover and set TDC, both push rods were loose, thats correct right? I may have been a tiny bit off TDC because I cannot actually see the line (too much crap on the flywheel) but I know I was close since I was just past the BB. Also, since you can rotate the dizzy housing a bit until its tightened down, how far off could you be?

Coolerman, I used your site as a basis for installing so I value your help a lot!

[BlackDiamond72]

Ok, took a second to understand what you were saying but I figured it out after my response. I hooked up an old plug as described and grounded it on the block and it sparked when I rotated the shaft. It wasn't a very strong spark but it worked.

So does that mean I might have the distributor not lined up properly? New plugs are on they way this evening, maybe that might help some.

[theRash]

I had a similar problem. I would suggest:
1. - I'd double checked your wire connections and .
2. - re-seat and re time your dizzy again. I made up my mind that I was a few teeth off; making it either far too advanced or far too retarded ( I can't recall which), But checking/fixing those two issues made my starting problems go away and it ran stronger. I used the same instructions found on mud as you.
Does you engine sound like it "wants" to start? Feel free to Pm me if you want.

[RicardoJM]

It sounds like your power is ok because you are getting spark. As it is a weak spark, you may want to run a ground wire from the coil/ignitor bracket to a known good ground. I ran one directly to my battery.

I'm not as familiar with using the valves to know when cylinder 1 is at TDC. The approach I followed was to pull the #1 plug, put some tissue paper in the spark plug hole and rotate the engine - when the tissue pops out I know the cylinder is coming up. I then stopped rotating the engine when the BB gets to the pointer.

Next I marked the distributor housing with the position of spark plug wire #1. I then removed the cap from the dizzy and rotated it until the blade points to the mark on the housing. In this position the circuit to plug #1 is complete and plug 1 will fire. Paying close attention to the alignment of the dizzy blade, I then used a screwdriver to get the oil pump slot aligned to the correct place and then put the dizzy in place. Keep in mind the tooth rotation that occurs when the dizzy is put in place.

Following the above process, I was sure the dizzy was not 180 degrees off. The engine fired right up and timing was 5 degrees BDTC. I then fine tuned the timing with the timing light.

[BlackDiamond72]

Took your advice Rash and pulled the dizzy out and reinstalled. I think I was off one tooth because once I reinstalled, it fired right up. Now I just need to rebuild the carb and it should be purring like a kitten again.

Thanks all!

[Pin_Head]

When installing a distributor, you need to "statically" time the distributor first so it will run.
You do this by rotating the engine to the 7 degree BTDC mark and then retarding the distributor about 30 degrees and then turning the distributor body just until it makes a spark (with the key on). That will be close enough to get it to run and then you can do the fine adjustment with a timing light.

The other way is to turn the distributor until it fires while someone else is cranking the engine.

[Mr. Toad]

And once it starts after being static timed, you have to re-time it once it's running.

[RicardoJM]

Originally Posted by Pin_Head

The other way is to turn the distributor until it fires while someone else is cranking the engine.

I did this and the results were not good. In my case a spark occurred when in a cylinder where a valve was open. Rather than pushing the cylinder down the explosion sent its energy through the open valve. This popped the valve cover off its gasket and bowed the center area of the valve cover.

[Pin_Head]

The vast majority of people wouldn't have that problem. If it fired with an intake open, your static timing was about 90 degrees too advanced. Also an intake backfire whould not be propagated into the crank case if you have a properly functioning PCV valve.