Old Electricals - Stupid Question #1

USMC75FJ40PA · 10-30-09, 05:12 PM

'75 FJ40. Pulled from Junkyard & rebuilt, keeping as much original as possible (Exept: Newer Carb + '80's Electronic Dissy + Bigger (amps) Alternator; & it had Fiberglass tub / dash when I got it).

Stupid question #1 (Yeah, I have to number them, there's many).

I run into problems with electrical switches, particularly when it's very damp, or raining. Example: I don't have an intermittent wiper, but, it only work intermittantly. If I shut it, or the vehicle, off - it may not work again. My headlight & heater motor switches don't make me any too confident, either. There may be some (old) wiring issues as well, but, My question is,

Are there any NEW replacement switches that are direct-fit replacements for a '75 FJ40's switches? I haven't been able to google any; dunno if anyone sells them (I've looked at JoeTLC, eBay, CCOT, Cruiser.net, SOR). I've already replaced them all (via eBay), but, the replacements were obviously pretty old, as well. I cleaned the contacts that I could see, but, don't want to break them open to clean them internally, if I don't have to.

Segue> Stupid Question #2:
That said, also looking at doing a complete re-wire (if nothing else, would rid me of 35 year old cracked, etc, wires), and maybe going to Jeep (

NO! ) switches. Prefereably, a waterproof set-up. Again, Have looked at the obvious, JoeTLC & CCOT, SOR as well as Painless & CenTech. I like the ideas of:
1) Waterproof
2) Everything labeled & (maybe) pre-terminated &
C) Extra Circuits (would like to add sounds, a few lights, etc)

Don't want to have to cut perfectly good taillight couplers/plugs off and perma-solder-tape them directly in-line. But, dunno where to get M & F couplers for them (I have new CCOT taillights, but, they don't match the couplers on the pig).

Any Ideas ... thanks in advance

Bob

rubirnr · 10-30-09, 05:28 PM

Color coded wires:

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/co...gmainframe.htm

Original style M/F connectors (note that these connectors are not an exact match to what is already in your truck. For example, a female connector from this site does not fit the male receptacle on the light switch:

http://www.vintageconnections.com

I found these links by trolling through the FAQ for this forum.

Best regards,

USMC75FJ40PA · 11-02-09, 10:01 AM

Thanks, Bro - I must not have been using the right search terms, will check them out. I have no problem buying both 1/2's and re-wiring that way.

Trollhole · 11-02-09, 10:18 AM

Really not that hard to crack them open and clean them. Most of the switchers are very basic.

Coolerman · 11-02-09, 01:47 PM

Agreed, several folks have posted how-to's on taking the switches apart.

Also the Vintage connectors will fit the wiper and headlight switch. You just have to cut the 'key' into them. Takes all of three minutes to do it.

Archengine · 11-04-09, 11:49 AM

I pulled all of mine and cleaned them. If you go this route, lay a sheet down on a clean floor. Lose one of those tiny springs, balls, or copper switches, and you will probably have to buy a new one.

Rob

fj hunter · 11-04-09, 06:29 PM

and replaced it ALL. I resued a few switches, and I had no problems taking them apart and cleaning all the contacts and they are working fine now.

I also went ALL digital, except headllights.

take your time and you should be ok. dont pry open clips any further than you need to and then press them back to the same place they were.

i agree on putting down a sheet, paper, or something that will help you if you drop something, or something goes WHOOOOO.

Best to your efforts.

USMC75FJ40PA · 11-07-09, 01:21 AM

Thanks again on suggestions. I have tried some switch internal cleanings before on old switches, and (back then) probably didn't use the patience and care that I would now. I just remembered that, by the time I got them clean ... I threw them out, as I had busted them up too much in disassembly ... probably lost a few small parts as well..

But, with the answers here ... that gives me the confidence to give it a shot again. Still going for a complete re-wire while I'm at it, too ... Tracking down all the old, cracked shorts and oxidized sections just seems to be counter-productive. Once I get the harness, Guess I'll crawl around, trace everything out, track down any needed female sides, and then, tear apart all the switches at the beginning of the re-wire.

Again, Thanks for the answers, and sources.