[slickrock]

I am planning on doing a front SOA on my 73 40 with widen spring perches, FJ 60 front axle and 60 series steering. I have read and read the posts and tech on how to do this. I wanted to write out what I believe is the correct procedure and I am looking for confirmation. I am skipping lots of little stuff and trying to focus on the major. Specifically degrees for pinion, caster, and which way to turn the actual axle outers.

• Rotate pinion from stock 0 degrees up towards the T-case to 4 degrees (do this with the weight of the rig on the axle. Since the axle will be torn down, I can use the flat surface where the third buts up to the axle housing for this measurement.
• Cut through the outer axle housing at the knuckles. I will have 35” to 36” tires on the rig. I need to rotate the knuckles 14 degrees plus the 4 degrees for the pinion. Total turn degree will then be 18 degrees (up towards the pinion). Does this sound about right for my size tires?
• My big question, and the posts and tech do not specifically say which way to do this, is which way do I turn the outers for the caster angle? Since I am rotating the pinion up, the driver side knuckle will rotate counterclockwise and the passenger side will rotate clockwise, or driver side rotate to the left and passenger to the right. Is this correct?

[BC40]

Do a bit more research/search of other SOA. Your angles are off and you need to spend the time to figure out what correct caster needs to be to be safe. Pinion angle will be specific to your set up. You will set the pinion and then rotate the swivel balls to reach the caster angle needed.

[Mace]

You got a bit confused there.

You can point the pinion towards the Tcase. That movement is typicaly ~ 12 to 14*

The actual cut N turn part is to adjust the knuckles because you pointed the pinion at the tcase, so you have to rotate both knuckles back, or counter clockwise (PS) or clockwise (DS)

The main goal is to get approximately 4ish * back on your castor.

There are lots of pics on this..

[green71fj]

teck links,soa overview.section 5 cutting and turning.buying one from proffits already cut and turned is always a good option

[4x4 Station Wagon]

The part that makes it confusing is that there is no similar answer because it is so dependant on what springs you have, weither you moved (flipped springs) your front forward, what shackle reversal you did or didnt use etc. All these factors would change what your castor is currently sitting at thus changing what it needs to be rotated to be correct. So in my mind when i do mine i need an accurate degree of where the pinion is at, an accurate guess of what angle I wish to point it at, and then from there once I reset the perches to reflect what I wanted the pinion angle to be set at I am ready to set my castor at the 4 degrees.

Just thinking out load here....

[slickrock]

Originally Posted by Mace

You got a bit confused there.

You can point the pinion towards the Tcase. That movement is typicaly ~ 12 to 14*

The actual cut N turn part is to adjust the knuckles because you pointed the pinion at the tcase, so you have to rotate both knuckles back, or counter clockwise (PS) or clockwise (DS)

The main goal is to get approximately 4ish * back on your castor.

There are lots of pics on this..

That makes sense. I did get my numbers backwards. So with rotating my pinion up 12-14*, I need to turn the opposite of what I said and add 4* when rotating the knuckles past 0 for a total turn of 16*-18*. OK that really makes more sense than what I said. That's what I get for thinking too much.

One more thing that confuses me. If the knuckles are rotated forward towards the front of the rig (pinion pointed up towards T-case) is that positive or negative caster?

As for buying an axle already set up, that defeats learning how to work on my own rig. Becuase I can ask these stupid questions, I have always been able to work things out and do things properly.

[rockcod]

Slickrock,

Click on my "Sully" link and go to page 4. I did a lot of searching on this site and there is a ton of info on cut and turns and SOA.

Good Luck.

[slickrock]

Thanks Rockcod. Made it real simpe when I could see it. Notching it and rotating it 1/4" and seeing it makes things a lot easier. Last question, I take it you rotate them downtowards the rear of the rig?

[peesalot]

Slick, you cut em loose and rotate a 1/4"(5/16) to be exact clockwise on driver side and counterclockwise on pass side.

[rockcod]

Originally Posted by peesalot

Slick, you cut em loose and rotate a 1/4"(5/16) to be exact clockwise on driver side and counterclockwise on pass side.

What peesalot said

[cruiseroutfit]

Originally Posted by 4x4 Station Wagon

The part that makes it confusing is that there is no similar answer because it is so dependant on what springs you have, weither you moved (flipped springs) your front forward, what shackle reversal you did or didnt use etc. All these factors would change what your castor is currently sitting at thus changing what it needs to be rotated to be correct. So in my mind when i do mine i need an accurate degree of where the pinion is at, an accurate guess of what angle I wish to point it at, and then from there once I reset the perches to reflect what I wanted the pinion angle to be set at I am ready to set my castor at the 4 degrees.

Just thinking out load here....

An excellent answer. I get calls all the time on our Cut/Turn housings and "how come you won't weld the spring perches on". There are 3 critical angles on the cut/turn process, caster, pinion angle and them spring pad angle. While we used to try and do all three for mail order customers, we found its just too impractical to get them all right 'most of the time', so instead we do the caster and pinion angle and recommend customers set them under the rig under load for the spring perch setup. The caster has an ~3* acceptable "range" thus we can nail the desired pinion angle without too much concern.

[slickrock]

Originally Posted by peesalot

Slick, you cut em loose and rotate a 1/4"(5/16) to be exact clockwise on driver side and counterclockwise on pass side.

Nice! Well why don't all the posts and tech links just say that!!!! Right on!

[slickrock]

Finally got the CnT done. Had a hell of a time on the driver side. It would not turn even after a 3/8" deep ring, red hot, and cheater bar. I finally had to widen the cut a little. Passenger side went like butter. I turned them 5/16 and will be welding them up tonight. Have some ruff -stuff 10* spring perches on the way.

Just have to figure out what to do about hy-steer for a 40 with a 60 series axle and steering box.

[slickrock]

Everything finally welded up and rig back on axle jackstands. Everything looks good. Now the process of putting the axle back together and making steering linkage.

[hicruise55]

Awesome to hear about the progress! I run 4x4Labs on my 55 with a 60 axle and 60 PS- I love it! No bent tie rods...