[cruiser enthuiser]

I have an old cluster too...'68. Very interested, so don't leave us old guys hanging.

[amaurer]

Originally Posted by Mtrunner

For those wanting Amps instead of Volts, the Autometer 2347 is a short sweep mechanical cluster with Amps that ranges +/- 60. Auto Meter

Wow, good find, thanks!!!

Originally Posted by Vitesse_6

What is considered new and old for the cluster?
I have a 71 but the cluster has turn signals in the cluster like what you show, Would that be a newer cluster?!?

Now there is a good question. As I understood it, the big difference between clusters was the connector on the back. Are you saying there is a turn signal difference too?

Originally Posted by Vitesse_6

Also what kind of time frame are you looking at for me to send you mine and have you put it together, I like the LED's but not really interested in the electroluminescent wire rope, Unless ist a HUGE improvement and not a huge cost.

There won't be any cost delta for LEDs vs EL wire - white LEDs aren't cheap.

As for timeframe - brackets take a week from the time I order them. I *think* that I won't have to mod the brackets for the older clusters, but even if I do, the worst case would be ~10 days after I get an example cluster I can have stuff ready to go.

Originally Posted by cruiser enthuiser

I have an old cluster too...'68. Very interested, so don't leave us old guys hanging.

I won't. You probably have the oldest cluster in the bunch ('68), where are the turn signal flashers located?

[Dusty 66]

Nice ! ......

[bsmith123]

Way to Go

[cronic]

very nice work. Looks great!

[My wife said no FJ!]

Very cool

[mfglenn]

Where to send my cluster? Have you got that arranged yet? This is just to Cool on all counts.

[cruiseroutfit]

Very cool, very.

Re: cluster differences (shooting from the memory here). Yes there are turn signal differences. On the roughly E-72 dashes, the turn signal indicators were separate bulbs off the side of the actual gauge cluster, similar to the 4WD indicator light instead of the integrated arrows in the speedo. 70-73 was still the two plugs on the back, 73 and later went to the circuit board with the single "round" pin out plug. There is no reason this couldn't be made to work with either though splicing may be necessary on the round pin models? Then of course is the screw speedo cable from E-9/72' and clip on 10/72' and later.


If you need a demo cluster with the screw style, LMK and I'd be happy to work something out with you.

[amaurer]

Originally Posted by mfglenn

Where to send my cluster? Have you got that arranged yet? This is just to Cool on all counts.

As soon as I get my pricing settled out I'll take orders and send you my address. Shouldn't be long, I'll bug my waterjet guy tomorrow.

Originally Posted by cruiseroutfit

Very cool, very.

Re: cluster differences (shooting from the memory here). Yes there are turn signal differences. On the roughly E-70 dashes, the turn signal indicators were separate bulbs off the side of the actual gauge cluster, similar to the 4WD indicator light instead of the integrated arrows in the speedo. 70-73 was still the two plugs on the back, 73 and later went to the circuit board with the single "round" pin out plug. There is no reason this couldn't be made to work with either though splicing may be necessary on the round pin models? Then of course is the screw speedo cable from E-9/72' and clip on 10/72' and later.


If you need a demo cluster with the screw style, LMK and I'd be happy to work something out with you.

Good info. Mr. Greek is sending me a 69 cluster, I'm sure I can figure something out. Will post pics when I do.

[fj40taz]

i like it... i will stay tuned as i am also running a SBC in my 74 and was looking to replace the whole cluster but i like this idea much better..

[jgray]

I will be sending you my cluster once pricing is finalized as well... I have 73... Great looking work!!!

[AATLAS1X]

That my friend is something you need to market! Hands down! Get the bugs worked out and make sure you can install it without any dash paint issues and you have a winner!!

The early and late model "OIL" "TEMP" "FUEL" "AMP" lettering I re popped in a decal. You would simply re paint the inner black plate that gets rust trace on the edges (as pictured on yours) and then apply the decal to what ever spot you wish. This will also allow one to place what ever gauge they want in each hole.

Not to high jack, but that is what we have all wanted just could nbot do what you have done!




Shane

[bsevans]

Originally Posted by AATLAS1X

That my friend is something you need to market! Hands down! Get the bugs worked out and make sure you can install it without any dash paint issues and you have a winner!!

The early and late model "OIL" "TEMP" "FUEL" "AMP" lettering I re popped in a decal. You would simply re paint the inner black plate that gets rust trace on the edges (as pictured on yours) and then apply the decal to what ever spot you wish. This will also allow one to place what ever gauge they want in each hole.

Not to high jack, but that is what we have all wanted just could nbot do what you have done!




Shane

Instead of decals, why don't you make letter transfers so only the word attaches to the frame and not a complete decal? You have a clear plastic cover over the adhesive side of the letters which you remove and a clear plastic cover the holds the letters in place until you transfer to the new surface then you peel that cover off. It would look far cleaner.

[cruiser_guy]

The P.O. of my FJ45LV had done something similar.



I'm one for the OEM look so I've removed it all and I'm going back to OEM as I have been able to find NOS on the OEM gages.

[AATLAS1X]

Originally Posted by bsevans

Instead of decals, why don't you make letter transfers so only the word attaches to the frame and not a complete decal? You have a clear plastic cover over the adhesive side of the letters which you remove and a clear plastic cover the holds the letters in place until you transfer to the new surface then you peel that cover off. It would look far cleaner.

Way to thin of a decal, tried it with the late model ones and it wont work. So I have the white printed on clear.

In a perfect world I would just have rubber stamps made to resell but then you would have to have a white paint pad.

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

The P.O. of my FJ45LV had done something similar.



I'm one for the OEM look so I've removed it all and I'm going back to OEM as I have been able to find NOS on the OEM gages.

That is some serious time invested in that steering wheel!

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by AATLAS1X

That is some serious time invested in that steering wheel!

It would have been better to invest the time in maintenance!! This thing was a disaster when I got it (and I stripped off the "bling" anyways).

[jackbrad]

Very nice!

[Bill McC]

Let me know when, how much, and your website (if you have one).

Nice work. Thanks.

[BrianSanDiego]

That is a Kick-A$$ idea and execution. Count me in too!
B.

[amaurer]

Still haven't heard from my supplier... it figures; I get next day responses when I'm in no hurry, but when I've got people waving money at me he takes forever.

http://www.cruiseruser.com Kickass Stuff For Your 40-Series is my site, I'll post up details as soon as I have them. Thanks for being patient guys.

[thecrazygreek]

Sent out the test cluster today. You can keep it if you want.

Can't wait to order a set!

[Leaping Deer]

Nice work!

[AATLAS1X]

Originally Posted by thecrazygreek

Sent out the test cluster today. You can keep it if you want.

Can't wait to order a set!

Dude I forget to call you every day!!!! I feel like a piece of shit......You around Sunday?

Back to the item at hand, do you have the black face plate laying around? Ill restore it and send it back.


Ill never use this item, but I cant get over how well of a job you did!

[amaurer]

I took my test cluster out and installed it in my truck today for a fit check, worked great... with one of two small adjustments that I'll incorporate in the final version.

I was also thinking about the "EL wire" issue, and even though I think its a superior solution, I can understand if some people would rather just stick with LEDs (e.g. if you were to buy brackets only). So the brackets I'm going to have cut (as soon as I get my RFQ back ) will have provisions for backlight LEDs, whether you use the EL wire or not.

Accordingly, here are some shots of the illumination with the LEDs, compared to my original (stock) cluster. Its damn hard to get a picture that really represents the brightness, so this is a little dim but good for comparison. Hint: the dim one is the original

I'll post some shots of the EL wire-d version when my wire arrives.

[amaurer]

Originally Posted by amaurer

... based on what the prototype cost me and what my waterjet guy charges for my simpler radio pod brackets, here is my guess of how the prices will fall:

Brackets only $40-60
Brackets with LEDs and EL wire $60-90
Brackets, LEDs/EL wire, and Mechanical gauge set ~$115-145
Brackets, LEDs/EL wire, and Electrical gauge set ~$155-190

(I'd say its most likely that the price will fall towards the cheaper end of these ranges)

And if you want to send me your cluster and have me put it all together for you, lets call that $25.

Got my quote back, will order a run as soon as I update the bracket file for the early model clusters (which, its a good thing we checked - they're quite different - but shouldn't be any problems)...

However, I'm now taking orders!! I couldn't make completely good on my promise to stay near the cheaper end of my guesses above, but I think I came close:

Price List:

• Brackets only - $55 - Shipped flat, you'll have to do some easy bending (no brake required, and all bends are marked with notches in the brackets) and paint the gauge mask flat black.
• Brackets & Lights - $76 - Your choice of LEDs or EL Wire for the backlight (bear with me, my EL Wire hasn't arrived yet, but will post up some pics ASAP). Comes wired to pin terminals which plug into stock connector.
• Full Set (Mechanical) - $145 - Your choice of voltmeter or ammeter.
• Full Set (Electrical) - $161 - (Sorry, no ammeter is available for this set, voltmeter only)
• Installation - $25
  

... plus $4 S&H.

I'll send installation instructions for the brackets and electrical connections (pin terminals plug into the stock connector and then need to be secured with a wrap of electrical tape, I'll indicate which wire needs to plug in where).

I'll send a PM out to everyone who expressed interest. Thanks!

Turnaround is going to be ~2 weeks - it'll take a week to get the brackets and then, depending on how many of you order the lighting options, another weeks for me to wire and solder everything together.

PM for payment instructions, include which setup you're interested so I get inventory ordered.

[Vitesse_6]

Im still down!
I PM'd you but I dont know if I gave you the info...
I would like just the bracket and lights please.
I will PM again

[amaurer]

EL wire arrived today, will try to get some pics up tonight.

[krzyabncanuck]

I will be in for a set also.

Will be going in my next project.

[amaurer]

As promised, EL wire pictures! As I expected, its awesome.

I realize this is not for everybody, but IMO this is the ultimate gauge cluster upgrade. Still, I'm giving everyone who is ordering the option of LED backlights or EL wire backlights - there is no cost difference.

[AATLAS1X]

WTF????

That is the fawking shit!!!!!!!!!!!

How can that not be for every one? I use PIAA bulbs in mine but thats is sick!