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01-06-09, 09:26 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 17
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non-responding clutch
I have a new problem arising with my cruiser. I have to "pump up" the clutch pedal in order to be able to shift from one gear to the next. I was afraid that this meant my clutch was slipping, but i have read here in the forums that a clutch that slips is described as:
"best way to tell if a clutch is slipping is to put your front tires against a curb or log, put it into third gear and let out the clutch... the engine should die, if not then your clutch is toast."
Mine is just the opposite, i can get into a gear, and when i need to stop, I can push my clutch pedal down, and it will not disengage so i can shift into neutral. I have actually killed the truck several times because I have to stop, but cant get it out of gear. if i pump the clutch petal, then I can shift. The point that the clutch enguages is also changing all the time.
I have looked at the level of fluid, and it was slightly low, bout a quarter on an inch, so i added more, but still have the problem.
No leaks noted under my truck, and only recent change was i added HFS 4 in lift.
Any thought? do i need to bleed the lines for some reason?
thanks
dustin
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01-06-09, 09:30 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: panhandle florida
Posts: 2,244
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bleeding
does sound like it needs bleeding for the amount of work it is worth trying before moving on to anything else.
funny that it came on with no other work done on it though
possibly the slave cylinder? I would look down at the slave cylinder while someone pushes it then pumps it and see how it moves.
but I would bleed it first and get that out of the way
__________________
B Smith123
Haste maketh waste.
When the sun shineth, make hay.
Look ere ye leap.
John Heywood 1497-1580
71 FJ frame off build "UGLY BETTY" http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...y-betty-5.html
33 in BFGs, 4 inch HFS lift, Durabak, Paki Khaki top, Now sportin a RUNNING 2F and 4 speed!
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01-06-09, 09:31 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 845
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it's either the master or the slave...
one of them is blowing by...since your fluid level is staying constant, i'd suspect the master is blowing by and not pushing fluid...if it's the slave, you should see leaking fluid...
when mine went, I replaced them as a set
__________________
Zekester
SW Ontario, Canada
12/79 BJ40, 3B, 5spd, Gozzard F/G body, 3" lift, SS snorkle, 8274
M101 Expedition Trailer I/P, but in service
1983 BJ60, slowly whittling it down to nothing
1997 BMW 328is winter beater
1957 Porsche 356 replica I/P
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01-06-09, 09:58 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 1,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zekester
it's either the master or the slave...
one of them is blowing by...since your fluid level is staying constant, i'd suspect the master is blowing by and not pushing fluid...if it's the slave, you should see leaking fluid...
when mine went, I replaced them as a set
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TRY AND BLEED IT 1ST!!!!!! It's cheaper but most likely one of them is shot.
Yeah, I've been down this road before on several vehicles, most of the time it was the slave. I've only had one that leaked. As mentioned above replacing them both is recommended. I've replaced several slaves and then had to replace the master several months to a year later. the seals inside fall apart and age. don't forget to get a new hose too.
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1978 (mostly) FJ-40, lift, 2F, bigger tires and custom swiss cheese body panels to reduce weight!
Various other toys 87 4runner, Motorcycles Ducati and Triumphs with an old Mach III in the mix.
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01-06-09, 10:48 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 649
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Hey one thing about it............ Heck of a lot better than the clutch going out!!!!
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01-07-09, 12:38 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Richmond B.C.
Posts: 867
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Check to see if you have moisture build up in th bottom of the cup,clutch fluid hates moisture and it cogulates at the bottom of the bowl blocking the fluid to pass.
Use DOT 4 or 5 rated fluid to avoid this problem it cost more but worth it if you do alot of puddle splashing.
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01-07-09, 07:26 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 17
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Dieseler,
Do you mean that there would be moisture in the reservoir and it would be below the break fluid?
thanks
Thanks for the quick replies.. I will try to bleed the line in the next day or so and see if this resolves my issues, otherwise, i will replace both units as advised.
thanks
Dustin
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01-07-09, 11:47 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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ONSC-Event Co-Ordinator
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 1,063
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Check the adjusting nuts on the back of the pedal and the push rod from the slave. You might be able to get a little more play and get it to engage/disengage...
__________________
Brian, Heather, and Lily
1974 FJ40 JD Green, list too long but it's drivable
1995 FZJ80 Black, knuckle rebuild done, lift next
1974 FJ40 White,Back Axle removal,tub restoration
ONSC, UC, MATLCA
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